Some trees and plants from far‑flung lands, from the baobab to our venerable oak, have been regarded as sacred for millennia. Peoples from different regions have chosen certain members of the world’s flora for their spiritual significance or the legends they tell. To this day they continue to attach powerful symbolism to them.
Why? Which trees and plants are these mythical specimens adored by so many cultures? I suggest discovering a few on each continent, among the most emblematic on our planet.
Le Ginkgo biloba
This tree with its unique, bilobed foliage, like thousands of tiny fans, and its sublime golden autumn colours, is one of Asia’s emblematic sacred trees. Long before Hiroshima — which made it famous worldwide for surviving the blast — this symbol of resilience was known in Japan for its exceptional longevity, even its apparent immortality. It is said that Ginkgo biloba can live for more than 1,000 years. Some ginkgos in Asia have even been dated to nearly 800 years, a record for this “fossil” tree and sole representative of its botanical family, the Ginkgoaceae.
It is one of those venerated trees planted in front of Buddhist, Taoist and Shinto temples. It is said that Confucius once taught his philosophy beneath one of the planet’s oldest specimens, at Sungkyunkwan in South Korea. In Japanese tradition, the ginkgo wards off evil spirits, and it is also known for medicinal virtues and its natural fire‑resistant quality, a symbol of protection.
Rediscovered for landscaping about thirty years ago because of its ease of cultivation and rapid growth, it is increasingly seen in gardens, both as the typical form, Ginkgo biloba, and in dwarf varieties suitable for containers. It also lends itself well to bonsai training.
Today it is also widely planted for another reason: science is closely studying its interesting properties in research into cognitive disorders.
Read more at: Ginkgo biloba: why does this tree fascinate so many gardeners? and 5 great ideas for pairing ginkgo.
African and Indian ficus
Let us now travel to the African continent. Ficus sycomorus, which I saw myself at the Botanical Garden of Palermo, is one of Africa’s majestic trees, a classic “palaver tree”, alongside the baobab and the banyan, which are also sacred.
An African fig tree, remarkable for its stemless flowering and fruiting, arising directly from trunk and old branches. Once fertilised by wasps, the flowers (sycones, another botanical peculiarity) become small round figs, grey‑green to pinkish‑orange. As with our Mediterranean fig, it is not strictly a fruit but a pseudocarp.
Often simply called sycamore, Egyptian fig or Pharaoh’s fig in ancient Egypt, it belongs to family Moraceae. Found in Africa, it is also widespread in Near and Middle East, notably in Israel and Yemen, where it is still cultivated for its figs.
Mentioned in Old and New Testaments (Zacchaeus story), associated with Egyptian female deities (Hathor, Nut or Isis), Ficus sycomorus is one of the world’s oldest trees, venerated as a tree of life. Numerous representations have been found in tombs and on papyri; the Egyptians used its rot‑resistant wood to make sarcophagi and many everyday objects.
This age‑old sycamore also represents a tree of benefits, providing vital shade in hot countries, beneficial through abundance of fruit, and above all indicating presence of water, source of life.
Planted near graves, sycamores are still attributed a link between heaven and earth, true connections between the two worlds.
Another sacred Ficus is the banyan or banian (Ficus benghalensis), native to India, where it grows wild across the subcontinent. Remarkable for its vast spread, it is recognisable by spectacular aerial roots that descend from the crown to reach the ground, take root and proliferate. Its gigantism makes it hard to photograph; it is Bali’s cosmic sacred tree and a symbol of wisdom throughout Asia, its roots creating an immutable link between earth, people and the divine. Offerings are often left around banyans in Asia. Different religious traditions (Hinduism, Buddhism, Jainism) ascribe varied attributes to it, but it remains a powerful symbol for communities, serving as refuge, landmark, spiritual anchor and meeting place.
Holly
Common holly (Ilex aquifolium), with evergreen leaves and bright red berries, holds a sacred place in many traditions worldwide. Often relegated to defensive hedging, holly has symbolised eternal life, protection and rebirth since antiquity, thanks to its evergreen foliage in winter. Celtic pagan culture revered it as a protective tree, able to drive away evil spirits and to purify places. It was often associated with the winter solstice, a time when its berries, symbols of fertility, shone in the sleeping landscape.
In Christian tradition, holly is linked to Christ’s crown of thorns, its red berries evoking shed blood. At Christmas it decorates homes with its reddened berries during dark season. The Romans presented holly branches at the Saturnalia, festivals marking renewal of the year. In folk magic holly is used for protection against spells and to attract luck. Its wood, reputedly rot‑resistant, was also used to make sacred objects.
Note: holly in English (“holly”) does not share etymological origin with “holy” (sacred), but their similar sounds and holly’s role in pagan then Christian traditions have strengthened its symbolic association with the sacred. Thus this plant, already protective in European cultures, became a “holy” emblem of winter festivities, notably at Christmas.
Cordyline and taro
Oceania is no stranger to sacred legends about its plants, found across the Pacific islands. According to an ancient Polynesian origin myth of plants, the taro (Colocasia esculenta) was born from a man’s feet and his lungs became the leaves. The plant called elephant’s ear is therefore more than an edible root to island inhabitants.
Cordyline fruticosa, a tropical, very colourful plant ubiquitous in hedges and villages, is also sacred: it was planted before houses and principal priests’ dwellings to drive away evil spirits; it was taken aboard canoes to bless sailors and long Pacific crossings. Its leaves had many practical uses — making waistcloths, roofing houses, cooking food — and its roots are edible. Called Ti in Hawai‘i and Auti in Tahitian, this plant with magical powers is consecrated to Lono, god of the fields, and widely used in religious ceremonies. It is still regarded as protective, judging by its presence around houses, and is much used in leaf crowns and necklaces that beautify Polynesian culture, adorning heads and bodies and welcoming visitors.
The lotus
Another plant with strong sacred connotations is the Asian species Nelumbo nucifera, the sacred lotus, which transports us to Asia.
Growing in full sun with roots in muddy water, the lotus symbolises purity arising from chaos and filth. Legend has it that the muddier the water it grows in, the purer and more beautiful its flowers. This purity is linked in Buddhist culture to purity of body and soul, and also to rebirth and spiritual elevation, like the flower rising above the water well above the leaves.
Its aura is not confined to India, its native land where it holds true sacred status. Vietnam has adopted it as national emblem, Macao even depicts it floating on water on its flag, and Egypt considers it a national flower.
Although the Egyptian lotus — actually a water lily — belongs to two other species (Nymphea lotus and Nymphea caerulea), it is likewise an aquatic plant and regarded as one of the oldest revered plants in the world: adored in pharaonic Egypt, the “sesen” was painted on tomb frescoes and bas‑reliefs, on papyri and used as a capital motif on “lotiform” temple columns. Opening with the sun and closing in the evening as it sinks beneath the water, it was associated with god Ra, symbolising creation, rebirth, the sun and therefore life. The blue lotus (Nymphaea caerulea), very fragrant, was used to perfume temples and as offerings to the gods.
Asian Nelumbo nucifera and the Egyptian lotus water lily are among the most deeply rooted sacred symbols worldwide, spanning distinct cultures and religions. The lotus’s many representations, and its symbolism of beauty, purity, fertility and divinity, make it a sacred flower in Buddhism and Taoism. In Asia, Buddha is often depicted seated on a lotus. Hatha yoga even borrowed from this plant the famous lotus posture used in Buddhist meditation. Among Hindus, creator god Brahma is said to have been born from a Nelumbo nucifera flower. Oriental temples are still preceded by lotus ponds, and the lotus throne is a common pedestal in Asian art.
The pawpaw (Asiminier)
We finish this sacred selection on the American continent. This tree with an oddly exotic common name (Pawpaw) is entirely hardy and has been cultivated for centuries in the northern and eastern United States and in Canada, in fact long before colonists arrived on the New World. The Anishinaabeg, Indigenous Algonquin peoples of Quebec and Ontario, gave the plant its Latin name Asimina triloba, probably derived from an Indigenous name.
Endemic to the whole eastern United States, the pawpaw was deeply rooted in Native American culture, serving not only as food but being closely associated with medicine, myths and spiritual meaning, notably as a symbol of patience and connection with nature.
For the Shawnee of Ohio, as for many Indigenous peoples, nature is inseparable from spirituality. Pawpaws, as nourishing and medicinal plants found at many sacred sites, were naturally integrated into rituals. The trees’ growth cycle symbolised renewal, connection to ancestors and balance between the physical and spiritual worlds. Pawpaw fruits likely featured in prayer and offering rites and were used as trade goods.
The Shawnee still see in these trees a symbol of connection between generations and their lands, even after forced displacement in the 19th century. The pawpaw remained a living reminder of cultural heritage.
This “poor man’s banana” or “northern mango”, as Québeckers call it, has a distinctive flavour that cannot easily be compared to familiar European fruits —
Belonging to family Annonaceae, which includes several tropical forest trees such as ylang‑ylang, custard apple and sugar‑apple, the pawpaw is unique in growing in temperate regions.
Go (much) further...
Many other plants and trees are considered sacred, often associated with immortality by peoples. They come from the oldest civilisations and traditions: the yew, the olive and the asphodel in the Mediterranean, the kapok tree (Ceiba) in South America, Commiphora myrrha (the myrrh of the Magi) in the Near East, the baobab, Cyperus papyrus in Egypt, sacred bamboo, the ash or the oak closer to home… They are all still linked to pagan or religious rites around the world.
For further reading for enthusiasts of botany and history like me: learn much more about the mythical sycamore in this fascinating Tela Botanica paper; there is much to say about the lotus, a millennia‑old plant with multiple sacred connotations… This article on the symbols of ancient Egypt should enthral you.
To conclude, publisher Eyrolles released in 2024 a beautiful book, "Arbres sacrés du monde - Science, légendes et usages autour de 25 essences, A marvellous anthropological exploration for connecting with the wisdom of trees" by Aurélie Valtat, which inspired me to buy it while researching this topic. I highly recommend it if you wish to continue this fascinating journey through the world’s trees.
At Delachaux et Niestlé you can find Histoires d'arbres - Des sciences aux contes by Philippe Domont, forest engineer, published in 2014. And, to write this article, I joyfully revisited one of my old favourites (the best!), Mythologies of the World by Roy Willis, original English edition 1993. It contains rich material and insights into the connections between humans and plants since time immemorial.
Some trees and plants from far‑flung lands, from the baobab to our venerable oak, have been regarded as sacred for millennia. Peoples from different regions have chosen certain members of the world’s flora for their spiritual significance or the legends they tell. To this day they continue to attach powerful symbolism to them.Why? Which trees […]
Terraces, courtyards, patios and small bohemian balconies are the new stars of summer! This very colourful "boho" trend that has invaded our interiors and wardrobes also appears in our summer green retreats. It matches the sunny cheerfulness of a season when we spend a lot of time outdoors.
Let’s take inspiration from the gypsy world to prepare bright alcoves on balconies, terraces and inner courtyards from the first fine days, with planting ideas and decorative elements. We explore this Boho Patio in three scenes easy to recreate at home!
Boho Patio codes
The bohemian atmosphere dresses itself in vivid, deep and variegated colours that answer one another, but also in associations of warm tones in the blooms: intense reds, deep violets, Indian pinks and spicy oranges, not forgetting bicoloured flowers. Bluish, golden or purplish foliage helps to reinforce this playful mood, bringing red or variegated splashes.
This mixed-up planting borrows from gypsy culture a festive, hybrid universe that laughs at convention and pairs a whole spectrum of colours, provided they are warm and bright.
This style is also based on improvisation, like manouche music, and on bold accents. This temperament appears in the garden in temporary scenes created especially for the summer months, and in the accumulation of mismatched small objects (side tables, stools, small cushions, etc.).
On the décor side, important for dining and relaxation areas, have fun with mismatched pairings: rustic furniture repainted turquoise or green, rattan chairs, fabric pouffes, Provençal floral and ethnic patterns juxtaposed with strong colours: turquoise, pink, orange and bright yellow. The advantage of this bohemian décor is that you can mix disparate objects and accessories, using what you already have at home or stored in the attic, to give them a second life: bring out granny’s lace and embroidery for the summer, macramé and trimmings, old rattan armchairs, baskets and fruit crates, airy curtains. In a joyful mix of materials, the décor is done!
On a sun-drenched terrace
Terrace or balcony are often west- or south-facing. They can be radically transformed into an ultra-cheerful cocoon with sun-tolerant plants that do well in pots. Explore a plant colour palette ranging from saffron yellow to violet for a truly bohemian vibe.
Alstroemerias 'Indian Summer', orange and yellow contrasting against bronze foliage, will look stunning alongside Coreopsis 'Cosmic Eye', a bright yellow spotted with purple, or the pretty all-yellow 'Full Moon Madness'. Add other long-flowering plants such as a common Rose mallow 'Pink Passion' with giant flowers and dark purple foliage, and provide more foliage interest with a pomegranate that can be grown in a pot, such as Punica granatum 'Nana', whose brilliant flowers will pair beautifully with the other perennials. For snacking at aperitif time, invite, for example, the surprising cherry tomatoes 'Akoya', whose fruits turn almost black.
In a semi-shaded urban patio
Small city courtyards benefit from focusing on colour and variegated or golden foliage to lift them out of the shade. In a semi-shaded patio receiving enough light and warmth in summer, opt for sunny flowers and a few "indestructibles":
Hosta 'The King', Hakonechloa macra and an Aucuba japonica 'Crotonifolia' for their golden and variegated foliage (Aucuba will reward you with pretty red berries a little earlier) together with the bold flowers of Hibiscus syriacus 'Hibisa rosada', and the Peruvian lily 'Duc d'Anjou'.
The bohemian spirit will also be present in accessories, essential in less bright areas and in smaller spaces.
Beyond plants, bring colour without fearing the boldest mixes. Dare genre-mixing: antique rug + Italian ceramics + small disparate or oversized objects and a cosy bench, etc. Here, the evening atmosphere will be especially worked on: lanterns, paper lanterns and candles, and don’t forget a crochet throw in these patios that are often cooler at night.
Garden refuge as an improvised alcove
This bohemian trend can also be expressed in a corner of the garden used as an improvised summer retreat.
In front of a shed, garden shelter or at the foot of a fine tree from which a rattan chair is hung, set up a summer hideaway using bohemian codes. A temporary terrace, improvised with clip-together wooden decking tiles readily available from DIY stores, is easy to install. In summer it becomes a true green cocoon perfect for relaxing on a garden sofa made of a few stacked pallets or large pouffes, in a fairground style.
Here, a few colourful annuals join the party: multicoloured zinnias and orange calendulas (marigolds) sown in pots in spring, or beds of African marigold 'Mango Tango' around the area, as well as sun-loving perennials such as the charming Delosperma 'Ocean Sunset Orange Glow'. Count on two striking pots of dahlias with evocative names, the fiery 'Bohemian Spartacus' and the more restrained compact 'Melody Gipsy', for a long and remarkable display. Sunflowers 'Mongolian Giant' will bring pep and height, while a pot of basil 'Everleaf Emerald Tower' will be handy for salads at barbecues or sunny lunches.
Gather your most colourful pots, bring in lace, hangings, vintage crockery and cushions: job done!
Discover other plants ideal for composing this bohemian green décor on a terrace in our "Boho Patio" selection online and in our trend booklet!
Feeling the bohemian spirit? Find our advice on creating a bohemian garden, and our inspirational sequences: Catalane and Peach Raspberry.
This Boho Patio trend also draws on recycling second‑hand objects. Explore our topics to let your creativity run free: Decor idea: plants in unusual containers; How to make a planter from a pallet?; Recycling in the garden and How to use and properly integrate terracotta pots in the garden?
Terraces, courtyards, patios and small bohemian balconies are the new stars of summer! This very colourful “boho” trend that has invaded our interiors and wardrobes also appears in our summer green retreats. It matches the sunny cheerfulness of a season when we spend a lot of time outdoors. Let’s take inspiration from the gypsy world […]
At the end of each year, it's an opportunity to reflect on the favourite plants of the editorial team, those that have marked our gardens, terraces, and interiors with their beauty, originality, or ease of cultivation. Behind each favourite, there is a gardener's story, a meeting with a plant that has found its place and transformed a patch of greenery into a true source of inspiration.
In this article, the editorial team shares its top plant picks for 2025, from characterful trees and shrubs to floriferous perennials, not forgetting the graphic houseplants and lesser-known species that deserve to be recognised. This selection is guided by a passion for gardening, a desire to share useful tips, and to help you find the plant that will make your heart race.
Ingrid: the Cercis canadensis 'Ruby Falls'
This year, my choice is the Cercis canadensis 'Ruby Falls', a dwarf weeping redbud that offers a poetic presence in my bordering terrace bed. Planted in partial shade, it boasts heart-shaped leaves of a deep purple mixed with green, which seem to cascade along its drooping branches. In spring, its violet-pink flowers emerge on the still bare wood, bringing unexpected colour before the young red leaves unfurl. In autumn, this foliage takes on bronze and copper hues before falling.
I particularly love the contrast of its purple foliage with that of the surrounding plants, especially the bright green and violet-blue flowers of a nearby Hardy geranium 'Rozanne'. Alongside them, my Greater celandine, more spontaneous, naturally brightens the base of the shrub with its light green foliage. A little further away, a Acer palmatum ‘Bloodgood’, with its reddish-brown foliage, echoes the Ruby Falls. This chromatic continuity, from the purple of the Cercis to the darker hue of the maple, gives a gentle coherence to the bed and creates a visual depth where the light catches differently depending on the seasons.
This little Canadian redbud easily finds its place in a garden, thanks to its weeping habit and compact size. Its good hardiness makes it simple to cultivate, as long as the soil retains some moisture in summer. At my place, it quickly integrated into the bed, bringing softness to this part of the garden without ever overshadowing the neighbouring perennials.
Virginie: the Begonia 'Rex Escargot'
My heart undoubtedly leans towards the Begonia 'Rex Escargot'. What makes it truly special? This variety lives up to its name: each leaf spirals and seems to form a small snail shell, hypnotic and wildly graphic. We love its artistic touch with its unique colour contrasts: a blend of greens, silver, and chocolate.
With its velvety foliage, spiralled patterns, and unprecedented colours, it marks the strong return of indoor begonias, which are increasingly appealing due to their original aesthetics and diverse foliage. Long relegated to grandmothers' balconies or forgotten greenhouses, begonias now rank among the top 5 most sought-after plants for our interiors. Right in line with the major trend of decorative begonias, this variety stands out as a vintage icon brought back to life. Easy to cultivate (as long as you respect its preference for ambient humidity and filtered light), it adapts perfectly to all our interiors.
Olivier: the Hyssopus officinalis
"You, who are very sentimental, will surely appreciate this plant!" And bam! I was handed, without further ado, a clump of earth, from which only a few meagre green shoots emerged. Of course, I knew a bit about hyssop, as I have been passionate about medicinal plants since my studies. Moreover, it held a prominent place in medieval herb gardens. However, in my heavy soil, I remained… sceptical about its future. So, I decided to try it in a large container alongside my other Mediterranean plants, botanical cousins: thyme, sage, rosemary, and lavender.
Hyssopus officinalis is a dwarf undershrub (you can use that as a somewhat original insult), ideal for very sunny spots and dry or calcareous soils. And, in just one season, mine has thrived. I particularly love its flowers, a lovely violet-blue, which bloom from July to September and are highly appreciated by pollinating insects, including butterflies. Known as "sacred herb" by the ancient Greeks, this aromatic plant can reach up to 50 cm in height and has very fragrant leaves. It is cultivated for its medicinal properties (infusion for bronchial issues and digestion) and to flavour various dishes such as salads and soups. In short, if you have a spot left in your herb garden: give hyssop a try!
Sophie: the Westringia fruticosa
I have chosen the Westringia fruticosa, also known as Australian rosemary, as my plant pick for 2025, because it embodies the perfect companion plant, one that simplifies gardening! With its slight resemblance to rosemary, it has that familiar and sunny charm that immediately sets the tone. In my southern garden, amidst gauras, agapanthus, Leucophyllums, and lavender, it has settled in as if it has always belonged there. Its evergreen and silvery foliage captures the light, its naturally well-defined silhouette adds elegance, and its impressive resistance to heat, wind, and drought makes it a reliable choice, as I know it can thrive without any care. It tempers the exuberance of the blooms, highlights the volumes, and its light and delicate flowering brings just the right amount of freshness. What I love is its easy-going nature and its clean and bright appearance all year round.
With its 1 to 1.5 m in height and the same in spread, the Westringia fruticosa easily finds its place in the garden. Its delicate flowering extends from spring to autumn, returning in waves. It withstands light frosts down to -5 °C without flinching, sometimes even more in well-drained soil, making it perfectly suited for southern gardens, sheltered areas, and coastal climates. To thrive sustainably, it primarily requires a well-drained soil, preferably light, poor, and stony, where water never stagnates, an essential condition to preserve its longevity and natural vigour.
Gwenaëlle: the Protea 'Pink Ice'
Every year, when we choose our plant of the year to share with you, I always hesitate, as several plants in my garden could claim a spot on this podium. This year, there’s no hesitation… Drumroll… It’s my Protea 'Pink Ice', brought back from Madeira in 2022, that wins all the votes! The tiny plant I bought at the flower market in Funchal and lovingly planted has seen it all, and it’s the only one of the three plants to have survived. Growing it in a greenhouse and repotting it as it grew, it suffered, two years ago, from my carelessness as a gardener when, in the middle of summer, I forgot to ventilate the greenhouse. As a result, one of the two main branches completely cooked, throwing it somewhat off balance. But, with care, it continued to grow, forming new branches to my great satisfaction. What a surprise it was in September to see three buds appear, slowly but surely transforming into those sublime pink inflorescences I had been patiently waiting for in early November.
Proteas, native to South Africa, are considered delicate plants due to their very low hardiness. Of course, I protect it in winter, wrapping it up and watching it like a hawk. I also only water it with room temperature rainwater and have provided it with an acidic and light substrate. I’m not sure I’ll plant it in the garden for a few more years, in which case I’ll need to find it a particularly sheltered spot. The arrival of these large fluffy flowers is such a spectacle that I recommend it to all gardeners who love exotic plants, as this plant literally transports me elsewhere!
Pascale: the Sedum ‘Thunderhead’
I admit, I was long among the detractors of sedums. Perhaps because these plants always seemed a bit dull and unremarkable in the beds. And then, what’s the point of growing these succulent plants at home, in a region where drought was hardly an issue? Climate change has decided otherwise, and the heatwave has taken its toll on other plants I cherished… Not to mention the numerous cultivars of stonecrop that offer new cultivation perspectives.
The Sedum ‘Thunderhead’ is one of the pleasant surprises. This variety has literally swept away my prejudices about sedums, thanks to its presence and vigour. From spring, its robust dark stems stand proudly, bearing very fleshy bluish-green foliage. But it’s at the end of summer that the magic happens: the dense and enormous flower heads bloom in a deep purplish-red, lasting until early winter. As these flowers, perched on purple stems, are highly melliferous and nectariferous, they attract swarms of pollinators.
And in winter, this sedum continues to put on a show with its dry inflorescences. I’ve even taken a few to enhance a bouquet of dried flowers and herbs. And already, the next spring shoots are emerging from the ground.
Paired with my beloved heucheras, this stonecrop has found its place in my semi-shaded bed. But elsewhere, it could bask in the sun all summer long.
Elisabeth: the Monstera deliciosa, 25 years of cohabitation with my "philo"
Some stories last, enduring through moves, neglect, and trends. The one I’m about to tell is that of my Monstera deliciosa, my big "philo". It’s 25 years old, and it’s a green giant, a delicious monster clinging to the wall of my living room like a reminder of beautiful holidays in Spain.
Embracing its kitsch nature, it’s a bit of a grandmother’s plant, a symbol of the 70s, the spirit of bygone interiors. One might find this Monstera outdated, with its veranda plant look and postcard charm. Yet, it’s precisely this slightly old-fashioned air that makes it endearing. It signifies comfort and nostalgia.
If this houseplant had a CV, the first line would read: "Survival Expert". I forget to water it for three weeks? No problem, it will halt its growth, and that’s that. A bit of drastic pruning in anticipation of a move? It will sulk, but it will recover. It’s the ideal green plant for busy (or lazy) people; I don’t judge, I’ve lived through both.
Despite its 25 springs, "philo" has never deigned to flower. Because yes, this plant is capable of flowering! And even fruiting! Apparently, its fruits are deliciously edible. It might be lacking some geranium fertiliser, or perhaps it sulks because my living room isn’t humid enough, or too warm. Unless it’s just being a diva. It’s a whimsical creature: its leaves, sometimes smooth, sometimes holey like Swiss cheese, tell the story of its moods. Its support, doubled with bamboo and securely fastened to the wall with a battalion of strings, has become an original element of my décor. Over time, the inhabitants of the house hardly notice it anymore. Visitors, however, never miss the opportunity to comment: “But it’s huge!” or “How old is this monster?” And I confess its age with barely concealed pride.
Why do I love it (and why you might adopt it too)? First, because it endures. Even cats can’t really kill it — at least not mine, despite its efforts and persistence. Secondly, because it’s terribly photogenic: its large, cut leaves and vines bring a little bit of South American jungle into the home. And it’s a true conversation starter. “Do you think it will flower one day?” “How do we give it a more classic shape?”… With it, we learn patience; I still hope it will flower.
My Monstera deliciosa is not “just a plant”. It’s a life companion, a silent witness to my troubles, joys, successes, and also my losses. It’s a rock, a stubborn presence you can count on. And that’s precisely why I love it.
Aurélien: the Winecup or Callirhoe involucrata
If you appreciate mallows, lavateras, and other Anisodontea, then you’ll surely fall for their perennial and ground-cover cousin, the winecup (Callirhoe involucrata)!
Far less common in gardens, this Mexican species produces fine creeping stems with deeply lobed leaves, which weave between neighbouring plants without bothering them in the least. It reaches about 60 cm in diameter and 20-30 cm in height. The plant can easily be forgotten until large corollas of saturated fuchsia pink appear throughout the summer. Despite their ultra-vibrant hue, they blend effortlessly, in joyful whimsy, with blues, purples, or grey foliage: shrubby sages, immortelles, and perennial verbenas, or even yuccas will make excellent companions to create a Mediterranean atmosphere or a garden that requires no watering.
Frugal, floriferous, and quite resistant to drought once established, the winecup has many qualities and will thrive in any well-drained soil, preferably calcareous. North of the Loire, a spot in a rock garden or a sloped bed facing south will make it happy, possibly with the addition of some coarse sand or gravel to improve water drainage. In good conditions, it can be expected to withstand, despite its Central American origins, temperatures down to about -12/-15°C. A lovely addition to your borders that you won’t see everywhere!
At the end of each year, it’s an opportunity to reflect on the favourite plants of the editorial team, those that have marked our gardens, terraces, and interiors with their beauty, originality, or ease of cultivation. Behind each favourite, there is a gardener’s story, a meeting with a plant that has found its place and […]
Albino plants, with their immaculate appearance and lack of green pigment, captivate with their uniqueness as much as they intrigue. Why do some plants arise without chlorophyll, and how do they manage – or fail – to survive? Between genetic mystery and conservation challenges, these botanical curiosities offer us a fascinating window into the limits and adaptations of life. In this article, we will explore their origins, their unique functioning, and the issues related to their preservation.
What is an albino plant?
Albino plants are vegetals exhibiting a total or partial absence of chlorophyll, the green pigment that plays an essential role in photosynthesis. This pigment is crucial for capturing sunlight energy and converting it into chemical energy, allowing the plant to produce the sugars necessary for its growth: this is photosynthesis. Without chlorophyll, these plants find themselves unable to produce their own food (or at least partially), which poses significant challenges for their survival.
Appearance and characteristics
- White or translucent leaves and stems: the absence of chlorophyll gives albino plants a striking white or slightly translucent appearance, as other natural pigments (such as carotenoids or anthocyanins) may also be absent or greatly reduced.
- Leaves tinged with yellow or pale pink: in some cases, albino plants retain a small amount of other pigments that give them a slightly different coloration, such as shades of yellow or pink.
- Limited or non-existent growth: most albino plants die shortly after germination, as they cannot produce the energy necessary for development.
Comparison with albinism in animals
Albinism in plants and animals shares similarities, notably a genetic mutation affecting pigment production. However, the impacts of this condition differ significantly.
- In animals, the absence of melanin (the pigment responsible for skin, fur, or feather colour) leads to increased sensitivity to sunlight and camouflage issues, but they can generally survive.
- In plants, albinism is far more debilitating: without chlorophyll, an albino plant cannot perform photosynthesis, which directly compromises its ability to survive.
Prevalence in nature: an exceptional case
Albinism is an extremely rare phenomenon in the plant kingdom. Indeed, for a plant to become albino, it requires:
- A specific genetic mutation affecting the genes responsible for chlorophyll production.
- That this mutation is not immediately fatal during germination.
In nature, natural selection quickly eliminates albino plants, as they cannot develop independently.
The causes of albinism in plants
Genetic origin
Plant albinism is often linked to mutations in the genes responsible for chlorophyll synthesis. These mutations prevent the plant from producing this essential green pigment, resulting in a lack of coloration and an inability to perform photosynthesis.
- Genetic mutation: an alteration in the genes coding for the enzymes necessary for chlorophyll production leads to a total or partial absence of this pigment. These mutations can occur spontaneously or be inherited from parents.
- Specific cross-breeding cases: in certain species, genetic crossings between individuals carrying recessive mutations can give rise to albino plants. For example, in nurseries or hybridization projects, it is not uncommon to observe albino seedlings among varieties of vegetables, fruit trees, or orchids. However, these plants often survive only a very short time without human assistance.
Environmental factors
In addition to genetic mutations, external elements can also influence plant pigmentation.
- Environmental stress: extreme conditions, such as sudden temperature changes, excessive light exposure, or prolonged drought, can disrupt chlorophyll production processes. These conditions do not cause true genetic albinism but can lead to a temporary reduction in pigmentation.
- Diseases and pathogens: certain fungal or bacterial infections can alter the health of the plant and lead to leaf discolouration, mimicking the effect of albinism.
- Exposure to chemicals: certain weedkillers, pesticides, or pollutants can disrupt the biological mechanisms of plants and inhibit chlorophyll synthesis. These chemical impacts can cause temporary or permanent loss of pigmentation.
The consequences of albinism in plants
As mentioned earlier, albinism has major consequences for plants, as the absence of chlorophyll deprives them of their ability to perform photosynthesis. This incapacity places them in a situation of great vulnerability. Many albino plants die quickly after germination, unable to meet their energy needs. However, in some cases, they can rely on a "mother plant" or shared root systems for nourishment. This is the case for albino sequoias, which depend entirely on nutrients transferred by the roots of normal trees to survive, unlike normal plants, which can thrive due to their autonomy.
There are, however, notable exceptions. Some specific albino plants, such as Monotropa uniflora (the "ghost plant" or Indian pipe), circumvent their dependence on photosynthesis by establishing a symbiosis with mycorrhizal fungi. These fungi provide them with the necessary nutrients by tapping into the underground network of surrounding plants. This type of relationship, called mycoheterotrophy, allows these albino plants to survive and thrive despite their pigmentation defect.
This energy dependence of so-called albino plants on other plants or organisms, combined with the fragility of their state, makes their preservation difficult, especially in nature where habitat destruction further exacerbates their vulnerability.
However, these challenges come with interesting opportunities, particularly in the field of scientific research. Albino plants intrigue researchers seeking to better understand the genetic mutations responsible for their condition and their impact on plant metabolism. In horticulture, efforts are being made to maintain or even "save" certain albino varieties, for example, by using techniques such as controlled environment cultivation.
Famous examples of albino plants
Albino sequoias are probably the most fascinating examples of albino plants in nature. These rare trees, primarily located in California, survive thanks to a unique system of shared roots with normal sequoias. This underground network allows them to absorb the nutrients necessary for their survival, a dependency strategy that intrigues botanists and symbolises the interconnectedness of ecosystems.
In the horticultural world, partially albino plants, such as certain varieties of philodendrons, like Monstera deliciosa 'Variegata', have become extremely sought after. Their unique appearance, with marbled white or cream leaves, makes them prized objects for enthusiasts of slightly unusual tropical plants.
But, even within our flora, albino plants can be found. One of the most well-known cases is that of the bird's-nest orchid (Neottia nidus-avis), a European orchid devoid of chlorophyll. Like the Indian pipe, this plant derives its energy from the decomposition of organic matter in the soil, thanks to an association with mycorrhizal fungi.
Some tips on growing albino houseplants
Growing albino plants, or partially albino varieties, requires special attention. These plants should be placed in a bright environment, but especially without direct sunlight, to avoid burning the white parts of their leaves, which are particularly sensitive. Their metabolism being less efficient, they also require rich, well-drained soil, as well as appropriate fertilization to compensate for their reduced ability to produce energy.
In an ethical approach, it is also essential to respect their natural conservation. For enthusiasts, this means avoiding the collection of albino specimens from their natural habitat, as they are rare and vulnerable.
Albino plants, with their immaculate appearance and lack of green pigment, captivate with their uniqueness as much as they intrigue. Why do some plants arise without chlorophyll, and how do they manage – or fail – to survive? Between genetic mystery and conservation challenges, these botanical curiosities offer us a fascinating window into the limits […]
Do you dream of a wall covered in flowering climbing plants or a pergola overrun with lush greenery? It’s a lovely project… but things can quickly go awry if you don’t approach it correctly. Let’s be honest: between the jasmine that prefers to crawl rather than climb, the clematis that wilts in a few days, and the wisteria that turns into an invasive monster, there are plenty of stories to tell… So, if you’re ready to fail with flair, to turn your dreams of greenery into memorable plant disasters, follow the guide!
And if, along the way, you decide that planting your climbers correctly wouldn’t be such a bad idea, don’t worry: just do the exact opposite of everything we’re about to tell you here!
Let’s go, the glory of horticultural failure awaits you!
Choose your plant at random: the foundation of failure
If you want to ensure your climbers don’t survive, start by choosing your plant solely based on its appearance or the impulse buy you made at the garden centre. Who needs to wonder if that stunning bougainvillea can survive in your Alsatian garden? Not you, of course!
Why rely on the ideal climate for a plant? Install a Mediterranean plant in a cold region or an alpine variety under the scorching sun of the South. Guaranteed result: a depressed (or even dying) plant and a frustrated gardener.
Don’t consider the exposure either! It doesn’t matter if your wall faces north and never sees the sun. Put a light-loving plant, like a jasmine, there and watch it languish.
Do you love that beautiful clematis, but your garden is just a succession of rocks and sand? Or do you dream of a wisteria in calcareous soil? No worries, ignore the nature of your garden soil and plant anyway. A plant that can’t find nutrients is perfect for a quick fiasco.
You’ve got it: to succeed, you need to choose plants suited to your climate, your garden’s exposure, and the quality of your soil. But that’s not what we’re here for… is it?
Plant in the wrong season, it’s much more fun
If you want to maximise your chances of failure, completely forget the calendar. Why wait for spring or autumn, those seasons when conditions are ideal? No, to fail, choose the extremes instead!
Planting in the middle of winter, when the ground is frozen, is an excellent idea to put your climbers directly to the test of survival.
Prefer to plant in the height of summer? Perfect, opt for a heatwave day. The parched soil and scorching air will provide an ideal combination to stress your plant from the very first minute. Don’t forget: a climber transplanted at 30°C (or more) is like running a marathon without water, except it will never finish the race.
So, for successful planting, just remember that mild seasons like autumn and spring are your allies.
Ignore the soil: an insignificant detail
To fail at planting your climbers, nothing could be simpler: don’t worry about the soil. After all, dirt is just dirt, right? Why waste time analysing its composition or checking its water retention?
Plant directly in compacted soil, as hard as a pavement, and watch your climber struggle desperately to push its roots in. And if your ground is waterlogged after every rain, even better: the roots will love this little permanent bath… that will suffocate them.
If you have sandy soil, leave it as it is. Nutrients wash away with the slightest drop of water? Too bad for your plant; it should have been tougher.
In summary, make no effort to improve your soil. Completely ignore the importance of good drainage or adding compost.
And if you really want things to grow… a well-prepared soil, neither too heavy nor too draining, with an addition of compost or manure to enrich it is the key to success. For that, you can read our article: How to improve water retention in garden soil?
Forget about staking: let them grow freestyle
For a climber, nothing is more effective than completely skipping the support. Why bother installing a trellis, a pergola, or taut wires? Let your plant manage on its own. After all, it’s supposed to climb, right? It will find a way… or not.
If you want to add a touch of chaos, install a completely unsuitable support. Ivy has climbing roots suited for facades and walls? Give it a fence! The clematis has tendrils? A flat surface with nothing to twine around will do! And why not a flimsy string or a wobbly stake? At the first gust of wind, everything will collapse, and your plant will end up on the ground, disheartened.
Even better: let it crawl. Without a structure to cling to, your ivy or honeysuckle will decide to spread lazily on the ground. It’s no longer a climbing plant; it’s a creeping plant, but at least you’ll have innovated.
For perfectionists of failure, place your support too far from the plant. The stems will desperately search for something to cling to, never reaching their goal. A beautiful lesson in plant frustration!
Of course, to succeed, you just need to install a solid and suitable support from the start. You could even read this article full of tips: Stakes and supports for plants: everything you need to know to choose them well. But where would the fun be without a bit of chaos?
Water (or not) like a pro… of sabotage
If you dream of a climber that wilts quickly, watering is your best weapon. Two options are available: overdo it, or not at all.
For those who love excess, water generously every day, even when it rains. Ensure the soil is constantly soaked. The roots, deprived of oxygen, will slowly but surely drown. You’ll see your plant yellow, droop, and then give up all hope.
Conversely, if you prefer the dry regime, let the plant fend for itself. Forget about it during hot spells, even if it shows obvious signs of thirst. A climber that dries out is a climber that no longer climbs.
Finally, for an even more chaotic result, water completely randomly. A week of deluge followed by ten days of drought… enough to destabilise your plant and guarantee its misery.
The secret to a healthy plant? Water just the right amount, when it’s needed, taking into account the weather and the specific needs of your climber. But where would the drama be if everything went well?
Plant without considering space: long live improvisation
To ensure total failure, plant your climber anywhere, without considering what it will become in a few months or years. After all, why plan when you can improvise?
Do you dream of a wisteria? Perfect, install it at the foot of a flimsy trellis or right next to your downspout. You’ll be amazed to see this force of nature bend, break, or even tear everything in its path. If it starts invading your windows, your roof, or even your neighbour’s house, you’ve succeeded in not anticipating!
Even better: plant your wisteria or a bougainvillea right next to your plumbing! The young roots will sneak into the tiniest crevice or twine around the pipes. After a few years, your plumbing might just surprise you: leaks, blocked pipes, and why not a little flood to top it all off. After all, who would have thought a plant could have so much fun with your infrastructure?
And then, why think about the available space? Install several climbers together in the same pot or at the foot of the same support, it’s ideal for creating plant traffic jams. With a bit of luck, your climbers will suffocate together.
Never think about future maintenance. Why pruning or controlling growth? Let your plant become a wild tangle, impossible to untangle. A messy jungle, where the ambient humidity will be trapped, promoting the arrival of fungi and other moulds! It’s much more spectacular, isn’t it?
To succeed, you just need to choose the right location, sufficient space, and plan for a solid support suited to the plant’s adult size. And don’t neglect pruning.
Completely ignore diseases and pests
For a climber in a sorry state, adopt a hands-off strategy. Who needs to monitor their plant for the first signs of disease or the arrival of pests? Certainly not you!
If aphids settle in and turn your young shoots into an all-you-can-eat buffet, leave them be. Maybe they’ll leave on their own… or maybe not.
Is powdery mildew covering your leaves with a lovely white veil? Consider it a natural decoration. As for slugs and snails munching on your young stems, why chase them away? They must be hungry, after all.
To top it all off, never prune the sick or damaged parts. Let these infections spread peacefully, soon turning your plant into a masterpiece of desolation. And above all, don’t disinfect your pruning shears between cuts: nothing better for transmitting diseases from one plant to another!
If you really want to perfect this method, avoid giving your plant anything to help it defend itself: no natural treatments (manures or decoctions), no black soap, and especially no mulching to keep pests away or protect the soil from temperature variations. A climber left to its own devices is a climber doomed to fail.
Of course, to succeed, you would just need to regularly monitor your plant, treat small problems quickly, and maintain a healthy environment. But that’s for cautious gardeners… not for you, right?
Do you dream of a wall covered in flowering climbing plants or a pergola overrun with lush greenery? It’s a lovely project… but things can quickly go awry if you don’t approach it correctly. Let’s be honest: between the jasmine that prefers to crawl rather than climb, the clematis that wilts in a few days, […]
Do you dream of a planter that would send shivers of horror down the spines of gardening enthusiasts? You’ve come to the right place! We’re going to reveal the foolproof secrets, with a touch of humour, to transform your planter into a true botanical disaster. Unless, of course, you want to do the opposite and learn what not to do? Follow our six essential lessons to ensure you fail at your planter with style.
Lesson 1: mixing shade and sun plants
To kick off your masterpiece of a failed planter, nothing is simpler than to cheerfully mix sun-loving plants with those that prefer shade. Imagine an unlikely marriage between an elegant Hosta, which loves to bask in the shade, and a flamboyant Geranium, a sun worshipper. Well, that’s the perfect recipe for a botanical fiasco!
If you place them all in the sun, the Hosta, deprived of its beloved shade, will see its leaves burn and wilt quickly. Conversely, in the shade, the Geranium, starved of light, will become weak and stop flowering. A pairing doomed to fail from the start, but so amusing to watch to see how far it can go.
If you’re really determined to fail at your planter, why not add a semi-shade plant to the mix? A Heuchera, for example, which prefers dappled light but can tolerate a bit of sun. The confusion will be total, and your plants will go to war for the best spot where only one will truly thrive.
Lesson 2: ignoring plants' water needs
To continue your masterpiece of a failed planter, nothing is simpler than ignoring the water needs of your plants. Make sure not to choose plants with similar watering requirements. Instead, pair plants that love dry soil, like a cactus, with water-hungry plants, like an impatiens.
Then, you’ll have to juggle the watering! The cactus, drowned by excess water, will start to joyfully rot, while the impatiens, lacking moisture, will wilt sadly. It’s the perfect recipe for a horticultural disaster!
If you’re really determined to fail at your planter, why not add a plant that needs even more water, like a papyrus? The cactus and the impatiens won’t know where to turn, each trying to survive in an unsuitable environment. The chaos will be total, and your planter will be a fascinating spectacle of distressed plants.
Lesson 3: mixing colours
To add a touch of originality to your failed planter, cheerfully mix colours that clash with each other. Imagine a bold marriage of bright red and garish yellow or fluorescent green. Nothing like it to create a true visual festival… of bad taste! Above all, don’t choose similar colours to create a lovely gradient, nor complementary colours that work well together.
The result will be a plant patchwork where each colour seems to fight for attention, making your planter as harmonious as a Picasso painting on acid. The puzzled looks and amused smiles from your neighbours will be your reward.
To perfect this colourful cacophony, why not add pastel flowers that will be completely overshadowed by the garish colours of the other plants? The confusion will be total!
Lesson 4: mixing large and small plants
For an even more disastrous planter, mix plants of completely different sizes without hesitation. Place a bush, even a dwarf one, or a large perennial next to tiny plants. You’ll create an unbalanced composition where the small plants will be crushed by the grandeur of their neighbours. A true success… in terms of chaos!
Imagine, for example, tiny pansies desperately trying to catch a ray of sunshine, smothered by the imposing shadow of a Mexican orange blossom (Choisya). Their growth will be quickly stunted, their flowers less abundant, or even non-existent. Meanwhile, the orange blossom will thrive, spreading its branches and flowers without any consideration for its little companions.
To add to this confusion, why not introduce a climbing plant, like a clematis or ivy? It will wrap around the bush, seeking to climb ever higher. The result will be a planter where each plant will fight for its living space, creating a fascinating spectacle of plant competition.
Lesson 5: forgetting soil compatibility
To perfect your failed planter, ignore the specific soil needs of your plants. For example, joyfully plant lavenders, which love well-drained, calcareous soils, with hostas that prefer rich, moist, even heavy and slightly acidic soils. Nothing like it to create an unsuitable environment for all your plants!
The lavender, lacking drainage and dry soil, will suffer in overly moist conditions, risking root rot. On the other hand, the hosta, craving moisture, will wither in dry, poor, calcareous soil, its foliage quickly yellowing and wilting. It’s the perfect recipe for a distressed planter!
For added chaos, mix acid-loving plants with those that prefer calcareous soils, a true nightmare for them! Your plants will compete for contradictory soil conditions, ensuring a total failure of the planter.
Lesson 6: placing trailing plants at the back of the planter
To complete your masterpiece of a failed planter, place trailing plants at the back. Nothing like it to create a completely unbalanced and unsightly composition. Imagine a planter where trailing petunias are hidden behind taller plants like heucheras, sages, or lobelias.
The trailing plants, which are meant to cascade elegantly over the front of the planter, will be invisible, their beauty masked by the taller plants. The plants at the front, with their delicate flowers and rapid growth, will become entangled and compressed, unable to showcase their charm either.
Do you dream of a planter that would send shivers of horror down the spines of gardening enthusiasts? You’ve come to the right place! We’re going to reveal the foolproof secrets, with a touch of humour, to transform your planter into a true botanical disaster. Unless, of course, you want to do the opposite and […]
Oh, look at this: a buddleia or Butterfly Bush that produces three types of flower colours! It's amazing! It's unbelievable! It's... strange, isn't it? How could such a marvel occur? A genetic aberration? A risky grafting? Or are they just pulling our leg a bit? The editorial team at Promesse de Fleurs has investigated.
The Buddleia Tricolor on paper
On paper or in online photos, this Buddleia davidii is indeed tricolour, proudly displaying (well, we can't really ask the bush) the three colours: blue, pink, and white. All in a too perfectly symmetrical arrangement (still on paper!) to be honest.
It's ugly, you might say? Well, that's subjective. But you must agree that this bush doesn't have an easy look. Let's just say it's special... Yet, it's one of the best-selling shrubs at the moment. Go figure!
But what about in reality?
In reality, hold on to your spade, this Buddleia does not exist! At least, what you see in the doctored photos from catalogues does not exist. The Buddleia Tricolor is merely the commercial name of a "product" made up of three varieties of Buddleia: generally Buddleia 'Empire Blue', Buddleia 'Pink Delight', and Buddleia 'White Profusion'. These three fellows growing in the same pot. (please note: the varieties may actually differ depending on the market... a bit like Isio 4 oil).
Yes, but there's a "catch". The first year of planting, everything goes relatively well, but over time, one of the three shrubs, too tightly packed, will take over the other two and you'll soon find yourself with just one variety of butterfly bush. That's unfortunate! Especially at the price we pay for this Frankenstein monster.
So? Scam or not?
Yes and no. The issue does not stem from selling a pot with three different varieties. This is quite common. I’m thinking particularly of the 'Three Sisters' series: Rhododendron, Lilac, or Camellia... Yes, yes, we sell these weird things too. We’re not particularly proud of it, but they sell. It’s "trendy".
The problem lies more in the fact that horticultural professionals do not communicate clearly with the customer. 95% of gardeners do not know what these multicoloured varieties actually are, with most retailers remaining very vague, even evasive on the subject. Adding to this, they provide a poorly photoshopped illustration that bears absolutely no relation to the reality of what you will receive and attempt to grow.
Moreover, they make us believe — and it’s written in black and white on their sheets — that it’s a new variety. However, this is entirely false: placing three plants in the same pot is not enough to qualify it as a "variety". Furthermore, the commercial name should not be placed in single quotes, as is commonly seen: we do not mess around with botanical nomenclature!
So here, yes (and even a big YES), it’s deception, it’s stamping, as they clearly take the customer-gardener for a big pigeon, to put it politely...
In short, if you see this type of shrub in a catalogue, look the other way! When it seems too good to be true, in the world of horticulture or elsewhere, there’s usually something fishy going on...
Oh, look at this: a buddleia or Butterfly Bush that produces three types of flower colours! It’s amazing! It’s unbelievable! It’s… strange, isn’t it? How could such a marvel occur? A genetic aberration? A risky grafting? Or are they just pulling our leg a bit? The editorial team at Promesse de Fleurs has investigated. The […]
Basil, this beloved herb of chefs and gardeners alike, is actually a bit temperamental… and many gardeners, whether novice or experienced, make classic mistakes that lead to disastrous results. Too much water, not enough light, poor soil, neglecting pruning… the list goes on! So why stand out? Isn’t it better to follow the crowd and fail at growing basil? We’re going to show you how to spectacularly fail at growing your basil, so you can learn with humour what not to do!
Lesson 1: forget about watering
Basil is a plant that loves its substrate to remain slightly moist. But if your goal is to see it wither quickly, nothing could be simpler: completely forget to water it! After all, it’s a plant from a warm climate, right? At first, it will lose a few leaves, which will yellow before falling off… then the whole plant will dry out quickly, like a houseplant forgotten during the holidays. You can then say goodbye to your dreams of homemade pesto.
But if, in a moment of clarity, you want to save your basil, make sure to water it regularly (neither too much nor too little) with lukewarm rainwater, especially during heatwaves. Also, provide it with an organic mulch on the surface to limit the drying out of the soil.
Lesson 2: place it in a dark corner
Basil is a plant that loves light. In fact, it needs plenty of sunshine to thrive and produce its aromatic leaves. But if your aim is to fail at growing it, place it in a dark corner of your home, like between two kitchen appliances; it’s much more convenient, isn’t it?
Without sufficient light, your basil will desperately stretch in search of brightness, becoming thin and leggy. The leaves will turn pale green and fall off at the slightest touch.
But if, in a moment of compassion, you decide to give your basil a chance, place it in a sunny spot, like a south-facing windowsill or a well-exposed garden. It needs six hours of direct light per day to develop. You’ll see, it will quickly regain its vigour and vibrancy.
Lesson 3: forget about the ideal temperature
Basil enjoys mild and moderate temperatures but fears cold and excessive heat. To fail at growing it, forget all that and subject it to extreme temperatures. After all, why worry about its specific needs? In winter, leave it in its pot or container outside; nothing like a little cold snap to see it wilt! And in summer, leave it in the blazing sun, or better yet, in a greenhouse… The leaves will turn brown and crispy, looking literally cooked by the heat. You can then say goodbye to your salads and homemade pestos.
But if, by a miracle of common sense, you decide to give your basil a chance, keep it in an environment where the temperature is between 18 and 25 degrees Celsius. Avoid cold drafts and protect it from heatwaves. You’ll see, it will thank you by producing fresh and tasty leaves all season long.
Lesson 4: give it poor, compact soil
To spectacularly fail at growing your basil, plant it in poor, compact soil. For pot planting, use clayey or poor garden soil. Compact soil does not allow the roots to breathe or spread. Your basil, trapped in this vegetative prison, will suffer from a lack of oxygen and essential nutrients. Its suffocated roots will be unable to draw the necessary water and nutrients. You’ll see its leaves yellow, shrivel, and fall one by one. A true symphony of plant suffering!
To do it right, water this clayey soil just enough to turn it into a heavy, sticky mud, but not too much, or the basil might find a few drops of comfort. And above all, don’t even think about adding compost or fertilisers; that would be cheating.
But if, in a sudden fit of kindness, you decide to save your basil, provide it with light, well-drained soil enriched with compost. Add a bit of sand to improve drainage and ensure the soil remains slightly moist.
Lesson 5: never prune your basil
If your goal is to see your basil wither, never prune it! Let it grow as it pleases; it will manage on its own to become a chaotic bush.
Without pruning, your basil will become an impenetrable jungle of long, weak stems. The older, lower leaves, deprived of light, will yellow and fall, leaving behind a bare and unhealthy plant. In a few weeks, your basil will resemble a wild creature escaped from a tropical forest, but without the lushness or health. The stems will be so long and twisted that they won’t be able to stand upright, and the whole plant will eventually collapse under its own weight.
Also, let the flowers develop freely; after all, why not let the plant exhaust itself producing seeds instead of tasty leaves? Unless, of course, your goal is to obtain basil seeds. Soon, your basil will be unable to provide a single leaf worthy of being picked for your cooking.
But if, in a flash of genius, you decide to save your basil, prune it regularly. Cut the stems just above a node of leaves to encourage branching and the growth of new leaves. Remove the flowers as soon as they appear to keep the plant focused on producing leaves. You’ll see, your basil will become a dense, vigorous bush, ready to flavour your dishes all summer long.
Basil, this beloved herb of chefs and gardeners alike, is actually a bit temperamental… and many gardeners, whether novice or experienced, make classic mistakes that lead to disastrous results. Too much water, not enough light, poor soil, neglecting pruning… the list goes on! So why stand out? Isn’t it better to follow the crowd and […]
Paulownia, also known as the "empress tree" or "Kiri", is native to East Asia and is gaining increasing interest due to its exceptional qualities. Its rapid growth, disease resistance, and valuable wood make it an undeniable asset for timber production. However, its status as an invasive species in certain regions of the world raises questions about its environmental impact. What is the real situation?
The qualities of Paulownia
Paulownia possesses undeniable qualities: a lightweight and strong wood, rapid growth, making it an incredible choice for reforestation and agroforestry.
Its ability to thrive in poor soils or degraded land and its tolerance to pollution make it an ideal candidate for combating erosion and restoring soils.
Moreover, Paulownia absorbs a significant amount of carbon dioxide, thus contributing to the fight against climate change.
Finally, its giant heart-shaped leaves and purple flowers also make it a highly appreciated aesthetic choice for parks and gardens.
Is Paulownia a threat to ecosystems?
However, it is precisely the rapid growth and ability to reproduce effectively of the species type, Paulownia tomentosa, that have raised concerns about its potentially invasive nature. Indeed, this variety is considered a pioneer species, meaning it can establish itself first in a disturbed and poor area. As a result, it can supplant our native species, thereby altering the natural habitats of local wildlife. This risks reducing biodiversity, particularly in fragile ecosystems where endemic species may be threatened.
Furthermore, its reproduction by seeds and suckers facilitates its spread, making control difficult if it thrives and establishes itself in an environment.
However, its melliferous flowers are a food source for some pollinators, while its leaves help enrich soil quality as they decompose.
Currently, Paulownia is under study in Europe to assess its invasive potential. For now, it is not classified as an invasive species, but authorities and scientists are closely monitoring its impact on local ecosystems.
It is important to proceed with caution when introducing exotic species. These can lead to unexpected, sometimes adverse, consequences for native ecosystems. Promoting local species remains a wise practice, as they are generally better adapted and more beneficial for the ecological balance of the environment.
In light of these challenges, it is essential to adopt a reasoned management approach to Paulownia.
Choosing the variety: a measure to prevent Paulownia invasion
Some hybrid varieties have been created to reduce the invasive character of Paulownia. They may be less fertile, or even sterile, meaning they do not produce seeds, or produce non-viable seeds.
They may also have slower growth and lower seed production than non-hybrid species.
Here are some examples of less invasive Paulownia varieties:
- Paulownia 'Shan Tong': This variety is sterile and has rapid growth. It is well-suited to temperate climates.
- Paulownia 'Pao Tong': This variety is also sterile and has rapid growth. It is more drought-tolerant than Paulownia 'Shan Tong'.
- Paulownia 'Elongata': This variety is fertile but produces fewer seeds than non-hybrid species. It is well-suited to warm, humid climates.
- Paulownia 'Fortunei': This variety is also fertile but produces fewer seeds than non-hybrid species. It is well-suited to temperate and cold climates.
In addition to choosing a less invasive variety, it is important to plant Paulownia in an appropriate location. Avoid planting it near sensitive natural areas, such as riverbanks and cliffs.
Conclusion
Paulownia is not intrinsically "good" or "bad". Its impact depends on the species, context, and management. By using it thoughtfully and responsibly, this multi-benefit tree can contribute to sustainable timber production, environmental improvement, and biodiversity. Remember that it is wiser and more sustainable to prioritise local species, which are better adapted and more beneficial to the environment.
Paulownia, also known as the “empress tree” or “Kiri”, is native to East Asia and is gaining increasing interest due to its exceptional qualities. Its rapid growth, disease resistance, and valuable wood make it an undeniable asset for timber production. However, its status as an invasive species in certain regions of the world raises questions […]
Whether shrubby or herbaceous, peonies beautify the garden every spring. With their vibrant white, cream, yellow, pink, or red dresses, they captivate and play the divas… and sometimes, they can be quite elusive when it comes to taking the stage. Imagine for a moment that you decide to deliberately sabotage the show, not out of malice, but simply for the pleasure of seeing how these grand ladies would react?
In this article, we will explore with a dash of irony and a pinch of sarcasm the most effective methods to fail with your peonies, while inadvertently slipping in the secrets to achieving success. Because yes, even in failure, there are lessons to be learned, right?
Lesson 1: Ignore the sunlight needs of the peony
To fail with your peonies right from the planting stage, placing them in the shade is a masterstroke. It is there, under the cover of trees and shielded from the sun's rays, that you unknowingly create the perfect setting for a despairing performance. Peonies, deprived of their main light source, will become leggy... or worse, may not flower at all!
But what if, in a fit of rebellion against this scenario of shade and sadness, you decided to change the script? Yes, these garden divas demand sunlight as their spotlight, and that for at least six hours a day! This is their secret to spectacular flowering.
Lesson 2: Neglect the type of soil
In this second act of our gardening opera, the soil plays the role of the conductor, dictating the tempo and quality of our plant stars' performance. By deliberately choosing compact, clayey soil that is, of course, waterlogged, you compose a dissonant symphony for your peonies. Their roots, like frustrated musicians, struggle to find their rhythm, suffocated in an environment that does not allow them to breathe… or to thrive.
Yet, in a surge of rebellion against this underground cacophony, what if you decided to tune the violins? For the secret lies in the composition of the soil! Indeed, peonies appreciate well-drained soil enriched with organic matter (compost will be your friend) and preferably with a neutral pH. The roots of the peonies will then find a vibrant echo, nourishing and allowing for a flowering worthy of the loudest ovations.
Lesson 3: Water too much or not enough
Let’s continue our improvisational theatre, with the main character being: watering. Alternate between abundant watering, worthy of a torrent, and the dryness of a desert. You will plunge your peonies into a state of constant stress. The roots of your plants, like dancers trying to follow chaotic music, are sometimes drowned by a wave of water, sometimes desperately searching for a drop to drink in cracked, thirsty soil. There, it’s certain: the dance will soon come to an end!
However, if you feel inclined not to let them drown or dry out, the key lies in seeking the middle ground. Practice the dance of measured watering, watering when the soil becomes dry to a depth of 2 cm. This balance will provide your peonies with the ideal stage to shine brightly.
Lesson 4: Ignore diseases and pests
Let’s return to our garden scene, where you decide that diseases and pests also have a role to play in this play, without being countered, thus taking centre stage. Your peonies, the main actresses, find themselves vulnerable, exposed to a scenario where they struggle alone against sometimes invisible… but dreadfully effective adversaries. Without your intervention, the garden becomes a tragic scene where fungal diseases and pests become the leading roles. That’s what you wanted, right?
However, by taking on the role of the attentive gardener-director, scrutinising the set for signs of impending harmful intrigue, you can take the necessary measures to protect your peonies. Intervening with targeted treatments and preventive care is like rewriting the script in favour of your peonies, allowing them to play their role with brilliance.
Lesson 5: Improvised pruning
And for the final act of this article, what if you transformed into "Edgar with the silver hands," a doppelgänger of the famous Edward, but with less talent? Prune the peonies with scissors that you haven’t cleaned beforehand, without a plan or discernment. You might think you’re shaping an avant-garde masterpiece, while in reality… you’re just improvising, cutting here and there, in the middle of the flowering period! This reckless approach is the perfect scenario for a botanical drama, where the peonies, the actresses of their own tragedy, find themselves stripped and weakened… The perfect melodrama!
However, for gardeners who, in a burst of controlled creativity, aspire to sculpt their garden, wait until after flowering to intervene, when the curtain falls and the peonies are ready to regenerate backstage. This thoughtful pruning, far from being an improvisation, is a meticulous rehearsal for next year’s show. It not only helps keep the plant healthy but also encourages even more spectacular flowering, ensuring that the next act is welcomed with even more brilliance.
Whether shrubby or herbaceous, peonies beautify the garden every spring. With their vibrant white, cream, yellow, pink, or red dresses, they captivate and play the divas… and sometimes, they can be quite elusive when it comes to taking the stage. Imagine for a moment that you decide to deliberately sabotage the show, not out of […]
In a world where climate change is an unavoidable reality, the search for sustainable solutions is more crucial than ever. Every action counts, including in our gardens. Among the many ways to attenuate the effects of climate change, tree planting plays a key role. Among them, a champion from Asia stands out: Paulownia, a tree with exceptional carbon capture properties.
What is Paulownia?
Paulownia is a deciduous tree distinguished by its large heart-shaped leaves and clusters of purple flowers. It can reach an impressive height of 10 to 25 metres in its natural habitat, making it a majestic addition to any landscape or large garden. Here in France, it will typically reach between 8 to 12 metres tall depending on the growing conditions.
It is native to Asia, particularly China and Japan, where it is known as "the emperor tree". Paulownia has been introduced to other parts of the world, including Europe and North America, where it has adapted well to various climatic conditions.
This tree is traditionally used for its wood, which is both lightweight and strong. Additionally, its ability to grow quickly makes it a popular choice for reforestation and ecological gardening projects. It is also used in traditional Asian medicine.
Note: the genus Paulownia includes six different species. However, the two most commonly cultivated species are Paulownia tomentosa and Paulownia fortunei.
The carbon capture properties of Paulownia
Paulownia is often referred to as the "carbon capture champion", and for good reason. According to scientific studies, this tree can sequester an impressive amount of carbon dioxide (CO2) from the atmosphere. In fact, an adult Paulownia can absorb up to 48 kilograms of CO2 per year, which is about 10 times more than most other trees commonly used in reforestation projects.
This exceptional capability is partly due to its rapid growth. Paulownia can reach maturity in 10 years, meaning it starts to have a positive impact on the environment much more quickly than other trees.
When compared to other trees like oak or pine, which are typically used in reforestation projects, Paulownia stands out significantly. For example, an oak can take up to 30 years to reach maturity and captures on average only 4 to 5 kilograms of CO2 per year. Pine, although faster growing than oak, captures on average 10 to 20 kg of CO2 per year, but it still does not reach the levels of Paulownia.
Finally, Paulownia is also noted for its ability to regenerate from its stump after cutting, an asset that can promote rapid new growth and continuous carbon capture. However, this capability varies greatly depending on soil conditions, climate, and forestry management practices.
Additional benefits of Paulownia
In winter, its large, nutrient-rich leaves decompose quickly and enrich the soil. This is an additional asset for mulching, composting, and permaculture.
Resilient, Paulownia is a robust tree that easily adapts to a wide range of climatic conditions and soil types. It is also resistant to diseases and pests, making it a sustainable choice for any garden or reforestation project.
Further reading
To learn more about this tree, read our sheet on Paulownia, Imperial Tree: planting, growing, and care.
In a world where climate change is an unavoidable reality, the search for sustainable solutions is more crucial than ever. Every action counts, including in our gardens. Among the many ways to attenuate the effects of climate change, tree planting plays a key role. Among them, a champion from Asia stands out: Paulownia, a tree […]
Roses have always been the undisputed stars of gardens, symbolising both love and beauty. However, for these queens of the garden to bloom their petals splendidly, planting requires special care. One of the most common and effective methods is planting bare root roses, a technique that promises vigorous growth and abundant flowering. In this article, we will detail the crucial steps to successfully plant your bare root rose supplied in a pot of substrate, from soaking methods to the secrets of perfect watering. Follow our guide to transform your garden into a haven of resplendent roses!
Bare root rose or potted? It’s all Greek to me
" Don't you order your roses bare root? - Well, yes. Look! - Oh no, these are potted. - Yes, but they are still bare root... just potted. - Oh. Well, if I were you, I would have bought bare root plants in pots. - Oh, very funny! That's clever...."
Bare root roses delivered with a pot of substrate surrounding them represent an excellent option for all gardeners. This proposal combines the advantages of the two most commonly used plant delivery types: bare root and containerised.
When a rose (or another plant) is delivered bare root, it means it is shipped without soil around the roots. This process has several advantages, including reduced transport costs and better recovery of the plant once planted. However, it requires that the plant be planted quickly after receipt to minimise stress and the risk of root desiccation.
The addition of a pot of potting soil around the roots during transport offers a clever compromise. This pot hydrates the roots during transit, thereby reducing transport-related stress and increasing the chances of successful recovery. It also allows gardeners to gain a little time (but don’t take too long!) before needing to plant their new rose.
When to order? When to plant?
Bare root roses are generally available for purchase between November and March, which coincides with their dormancy period. This helps to minimise stress on the plant and increases the chances of successful recovery once planted. The best time to plant these roses is also during their dormancy, when the plant is less likely to suffer from thermal shock or water stress.
How to plant a bare root rose bush?
First, unpack the pot by removing the plastic that holds it in place. When you do this, you may take some substrate on your feet or even in your boots: this is perfectly normal (it happens to me every time too!) and in any case, you don’t really need it anymore. However, you can keep it to bring to the planting if your soil is very heavy.
- Choosing the location: Select a well-sunny spot with well-drained soil. Roses prefer at least six hours of direct sunlight each day.
- Inspecting the roots: First, carefully inspect the roots of your rose. Remove any damaged or rotten parts with sharp, disinfected pruning shears. Healthy roots are essential for good recovery of the plant.
- Hydration and soaking: Soak the roots of the rose in a bucket of water for a few hours to hydrate them. You can also proceed with soaking the roots. This operation involves soaking the roots in a mixture of soil, preferably clay, compost or manure, and water, all forming a thick mud. This step promotes recovery and root growth by improving contact between the roots and the soil.
- Preparing the planting hole: Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the spreading roots of the plant, generally 50 cm deep and 60 cm wide is sufficient.
- Soil amendment: Mix the removed soil with well-decomposed compost to improve the soil, providing essential nutrients to the plant.
- Placing the rose: Position your rose in the middle of the hole, ensuring the roots are well spread out. The grafting point, identifiable as a swelling at the base of the stem, should be level with the soil or slightly above (see picture below).
- Backfilling and tamping: Fill the hole with the enriched soil and compost mixture, lightly tamping down by hand to eliminate air pockets.
- Watering: Water thoroughly immediately after planting to establish good contact between the roots and the soil.
- Mulching: Apply a layer of mulch such as straw or wood chips to retain moisture and limit weed growth.
- Post-planting care: Keep the soil moist but not waterlogged during the first few weeks, and consider applying a rose-specific fertiliser when the first signs of growth appear.
Roses have always been the undisputed stars of gardens, symbolising both love and beauty. However, for these queens of the garden to bloom their petals splendidly, planting requires special care. One of the most common and effective methods is planting bare root roses, a technique that promises vigorous growth and abundant flowering. In this article, […]
To reproduce, plants need their pollen to be transported from one flower to another. Some of them use the wind for this: for example, grasses and conifers. These plants do not require colourful or fragrant flowers, as they do not need to attract insects. However, this technique is not very effective… Pollen flies in all directions, and only a tiny fraction will reach another flower of the same species. There are also plants that use water to transport pollen, while others are pollinated by birds (hummingbirds in tropical regions), bats, and certain rodents…
However, in our latitudes, most plants rely on insects for pollination, as this is probably the most effective technique. They call upon a wide variety of insects: bees, butterflies, flies, bumblebees, ladybirds, beetles, ants… Without them, many plants would disappear!
Plants are immobile and cannot go out and fetch insects themselves… but as you will see, they are incredibly ingenious in attracting them!
1- Scent and Nectar
Plants play on several fronts to attract insects: colours, scents, shapes… Their flowering stimulates the various senses of foraging insects.
Flowers attract insects from afar with their scents. Insects are very sensitive to smells, which they perceive through receptors on their antennae. These scents signal that the flower is ready to be pollinated and that nectar is available. The scent can also differ if the flower is young or old, providing insects with a clue about the amount of nectar. This way, they do not waste time visiting flowers that are not mature or are too old. Their goal is not to pollinate the flowers, but simply to feed! Pollen is an excellent source of nutrients for larvae, while nectar is rich in quick sugars.
Insects do not perceive scents in the same way we do. Some floral scents that escape our notice are very attractive to them. They quickly learn to associate the smell with the presence of nectar… But beware, some flowers are cunning and emit a scent without offering any nectar!
Flowers that bloom at night are often the most fragrant! At night, it is harder to see colours, so they rely on scent to be noticed. In fact, some flowers are more fragrant at night than during the day. The Four O'Clocks only open in the evening, releasing a pleasant fragrance and wilting in the morning, thus reserving their nectar for nocturnal insects.
Not all floral scents are pleasant. For example, Araceae emit an unpleasant odour, reminiscent of a corpse or rotting meat, to attract the flies that pollinate them (by mimicking their laying site)!
Interestingly, flowers pollinated by wind or birds do not have scents.
→ Pascale explains the differences between melliferous and nectariferous plants.
2- Colours and Ultraviolet
Insects do not perceive colours as we do! Most of them cannot see red, which appears black to them. They primarily distinguish yellow, purple, and blue.
Many insects are attracted to the colour yellow! This is why there are many yellow flowers: dandelions, daffodils, brooms, mimosas, sunflowers, chamomiles, St. John's worts… Similarly, the centre of flowers is often yellow! This colour is particularly attractive to dipterans (flies), especially hoverflies.
Purple and blue also attract insects. These shades can be found in many plants, such as lavender, cornflowers, muscari, periwinkles, delphiniums or borage.
Red, pink, and purple particularly attract butterflies.
Flowers that open at night are most often white and fragrant to be more visible in the dark. Some of these flowers close during the day and open in the evening, in order to reserve their nectar for nocturnal insects!
But beyond these colours, flowers bear ultraviolet patterns on their petals, near the centre of the flower. They are invisible to us, but not to insects like bees and bumblebees. These ultraviolet lines and spots act as signposts for them, helping them to find the centre of the flower more easily! This guides them to the nectar and pollen.
3- The Shape of Flowers and Their Arrangement
The shape of flowers varies greatly between species. Some plants have a few large, visible flowers, while others produce a multitude of small flowers grouped together.
Depending on their shape, they will attract different pollinators. For example, tubular flowers attract insects with long proboscises, like butterflies. They are capable of reaching the nectar that is deep within the flower's tube. Some flowers are even specially adapted to a single species of insect (which thus becomes their exclusive pollinator). Take the example of the Madagascar Star (Angraecum sesquipedale), which is an orchid with a very long floral tube (about 30 cm). When he discovered this flower, Darwin predicted the existence of a butterfly with a proboscis of that length… And he was right; 40 years later, this butterfly was indeed discovered!
Many flowers, like those in the Lamiaceae family, have a larger lower part that serves as a "landing strip" for insects, especially bees.
Finally, the clustering of flowers into inflorescences helps insects forage more efficiently. It is more convenient for them to quickly move from one flower to another when they are all close together.
4- Traps and Deceptions
When it comes to reproduction, some plants are willing to go to great lengths, even deceiving insects! Orchids are particularly skilled at this.
Take the example of the Ophrys orchids, which can create a true sexual lure. Their flowers mimic the female of the insect that often pollinates them, such as a bee or a bumblebee. They simultaneously release pheromones… Thus, males are attracted and attempt to mate with the flower. They leave, of course, loaded with pollen!
The Lady's Slipper is another orchid that traps insects. The bee is attracted by the colour and scent of the flower (pheromones). Once inside, it finds itself trapped in the lower petal shaped like a slipper and must follow a narrow path to exit. In doing so, it rubs against the pollen and takes it with it to deposit on another flower.
Araceae are also trap plants. Generally, their flowers smell bad, like rotting meat, to attract flies. In Arums, the flowers even produce heat, which enhances the diffusion of odours. In the centre of the inflorescence, the temperature can be more than 20 °C higher than the ambient air! Their inflorescences form a "floral chamber," in which flies become trapped. Once covered in pollen, they are released and can then go pollinate another flower.
Thus, in the face of insects, plants are not as passive as they seem! Although immobile, they are full of ingenuity to trap them and have them carry their precious pollen.
To reproduce, plants need their pollen to be transported from one flower to another. Some of them use the wind for this: for example, grasses and conifers. These plants do not require colourful or fragrant flowers, as they do not need to attract insects. However, this technique is not very effective… Pollen flies in all […]
Celosia, this quirky summer plant with vibrant colours, features flame-shaped inflorescences that are almost surreal. With its feathery or crested flowers, it feels like a plant from another era, often enlivening window boxes and flower beds with its bright hues. Used in floral art for its originality, the eccentric Celosia is also edible. This lesser-known culinary tradition could spark renewed interest in this plant among those who appreciate plant-based cooking.
Celosia, an exotic eccentric
Cock's comb, known by its Latin name Celosia, belongs to the Amaranthaceae family. Its name derives from the Greek 'kêleos', meaning "burning", in reference to its shimmering colours. Native to tropical regions of Africa, Southeast Asia, and Central America where it grows as a perennial, it has naturalised in all warm regions of the globe. It is cultivated here as an annual (except in zone 10, which includes the Mediterranean fringe), often used to create borders in warm colours. The flowers, either upright or pendulous, indeed take on very vivid shades, ranging from yellow and orange to fuchsia pink and crimson red. It blooms for a long time: all summer until the frosts. There are about 60 species worldwide, with the most common being Celosia argentea or silver celosia, along with its many variations, Celosia argentea 'Cristata' and Celosia argentea 'Spicata' or 'Plumosa'. Some, in pink, have a resemblance to Astilbe, but… they thrive in the sun!
Reaching up to 2 m in the tropics, silver celosia (Celosia argentea) is much more modest in the northern hemisphere, where it measures between 20 and 60 cm for the tallest varieties.
While the flowers, striking for their colours, capture attention, it is undoubtedly the extravagance of their feathery or velvety and undulating texture that surprises. This has earned it the widely used nickname of velvet flower or cockscomb. A true comfort plant!
In terms of cultivation, they prefer well-drained, rich soil, but ordinary soil is also suitable, along with sunny exposure and regular watering. The soil should remain moist, so a thick mulch is more than necessary during the height of summer.
Celosia as a vegetable plant
What is less known is that this plant has been cultivated for a long time in the tropics for its leaves. These are indeed edible, and in Africa (especially in Senegal, Nigeria, and Cameroon), India, and China, the Celosia argentea var. argentea is considered a common leafy vegetable, alongside chard, spinach, or sorrel in our cuisine. It is also known in English as Lagos spinach, named after the city of Lagos in Nigeria where it is popular.
Silver celosia belongs to the same family as amaranths, whose leaves are also edible (though those of amaranth are slightly more bitter).
It is primarily the young shoots that are cooked. The leaves are harvested before flowering, as they are more flavourful and tender than when the Celosia is in bloom. The taste varies by species, ranging from mild to slightly spicy. Silver celosia has a less harsh and earthy flavour than spinach.
The leaves of silver celosia are rich in calcium and iron (almost 10 times more than regular spinach), as well as vitamins A and C. However, be sure to correctly identify your plant and only use Celosia argentea for consumption.
Cooking with Celosia
The tender leaves will primarily be used in cooking, by cooking them and incorporating them into various dishes.
They are consumed like spinach. Generally, they are sautéed in butter, just as one would do with a batch of spinach. However, it is essential to always blanch them beforehand to remove the oxalic acid they contain.
Celosia leaves can be sautéed with other vegetables and spices, especially incorporated into Indian vegetable dal, with lentils or chickpeas.
Also, try adding them, chopped, to green soups, or using them as a topping on pizza at the end of cooking, or as an aromatic herb in tacos, or simply chopped into a potato salad.
Silver celosia (Celosia argentea var. argentea) produces very small seeds that are used as grains or pseudo-grains (similar to amaranth seeds). In India, they are often cooked in water or ground into flour, recognised for their high nutritional value.
Celosia: a health asset
In addition to its vitamin and mineral content, celosia is known for its anti-diarrhoeal and haemostatic properties. It also has antioxidant properties. In Ayurvedic medicine, it is used to treat headaches, diarrhoea, and skin rashes.
Learn more in the study published in 2018 in the Research Journal of Pharmacology and Pharmacodynamics.
Celosia, this quirky summer plant with vibrant colours, features flame-shaped inflorescences that are almost surreal. With its feathery or crested flowers, it feels like a plant from another era, often enlivening window boxes and flower beds with its bright hues. Used in floral art for its originality, the eccentric Celosia is also edible. This lesser-known […]
As summer draws to a close and the days shorten, a hint of melancholy may arise in the gardener. This is the end-of-summer blues, a nostalgia for the past splendour of the garden in full bloom. Rather than fearing the end of summer, rejoice! While many plants fall asleep after the summer heat, others continue to bloom tirelessly or are just beginning to flourish. From ephemeral annuals to late-flowering perennials and long-lasting varieties, as well as flowering shrubs and summer bulbs, your garden is far from going into hibernation. Salvias, Echinaceas, Sedums, Lavateras, and Hydrangeas, combined with the last blooms of annuals, extend the show! These late flowers bring new life to the garden when most plants take their bow. In the late season, they come to the rescue of the depressed gardener and flourish with renewed vigour. Let’s discover these long-lasting flowers that bloom from the end of summer until autumn to extend the beautiful season!
Annual flowers: an ephemeral yet spectacular display
Despite their ephemeral nature, annuals and biennials are essential assets for generously flowering the garden for long months. They adapt to all desires, whether in the ground or in pots, creating often very colourful and cheerful displays. They come in an infinite variety of colours allowing for endless combinations, whether in gradients or monochromes, elegant or vibrant! Additionally, they are easy to grow and maintain, filling gaps between shrubs or perennials. These beautiful annual flowers bloom from June and generally for 5 months, sometimes longer, without interruption, ensuring a whole flowering season. Despite their limited lifespan, these annuals are an excellent way to keep your garden vibrant and colourful until autumn's doorstep. Planting plugs occurs in spring, and seeds can also be sown directly in place when the soil is well warmed. They are stunning in mixed borders, at the edges of beds, as well as in pots or window boxes. They are very easy to combine with other summer blooms, perennials or summer bulb plants. Among the champions of floral abundance:
- Ornamental Tobaccos orNicotiana: add a touch of exoticism, with their colourful trumpet-shaped flowers ranging from white to red and bright pink, fragrant in the evening.
- Petunias, Surfinias and Calibrachoas are remarkable for their generous and continuous flowering lasting from May until the first frosts. With their trumpet-shaped flowers, bicoloured, tricoloured, or striped, they offer a myriad of vivid and deep or pastel colours, sometimes even bordering on kitsch.
- Annual Lobelias that bloom continuously until the first frosts and come in many vibrant colours.
- The elegant Cosmos, with their large simple and airy flowers in a wide range of colours, renew abundantly from June to September.
- Godetias (or Clarkias), another charming annual plant, very floriferous from June to September with large silky flowers painted in various often soft, solid or variegated tones.
- Pelargoniums or Geraniums (zonal pelargonium, ivy pelargonium or "king of balconies") are essential for adding relief and colour to beds, borders, and sunny spots, hanging baskets, and window boxes from May to October. There is something for every taste and situation.
- Zinnias are lovely late-flowering daisies. Resilient and prolific, they are among those unmissable annual plants ensuring continuous flowering in vibrant, sometimes even exuberant colours, until the first frosts.
- Fuchsias, whose bell-shaped flowers, either simple or double and often bicoloured, bloom from May-June to September-October.
But also: Coreopsis, marigolds (Calendula), African marigolds (Tagetes), nasturtiums, bacopas, Dipladenias, annual Rudbeckias, diascias, Osteospermums, all in bloom from spring until the first frosts.
Read also:
Perennials: the promise of lasting beauty
Some generous or late-flowering perennials extend the beautiful season into winter. Many of them continue to bloom once the summer's heat has faded. Their flowering spans from early summer to frost. They return each year, requiring little maintenance and offering a myriad of colours in return. Depending on their size, they will enliven the foreground of beds, fill gaps, or provide structure and lightness. Here is a selection of essential perennials that will bloom until September-October:
- Asters, a must-have for late blooms. These very hardy perennials, like the autumn asters, such as Aster novi-belgii, light up the late season with their starry and colourful blooms! They are covered from August to November with numerous small white, blue, purple, or pink flowers. Melliferous, they attract a multitude of pollinating insects.
- Japanese Anemones, with their delicate star-like flowers, are essential in late summer and autumn beds. These perennials, typical of the "vicar's garden," are among the most beautiful late summer flowers for partial shade, blooming in luminous corollas from September to November. Their delicate beauty contrasts with their robustness, as they can tolerate a variety of soil and light conditions (they accept sun in humus-rich soil).
- Echinaceas, with their vibrant daisy-like flowers, are robust and reliable perennials, offering spectacular blooms in late summer and until September-October without interruption. Fertile, very easy to grow, and accommodating, they bloom in naturalistic beds, borders, and English mixed borders. After flowering, the brown cones suspended on their inflexible stems will extend the decorative effect into the dreary season.
- Perovskias, with their silvery aromatic foliage and lavender-blue flowers, like Perovskia atriplicifolia ‘Blue Spire‘, form a graceful bush blooming from June to September, even until October in Mediterranean climates. This particularly long flowering attracts butterflies, bees, and bumblebees all summer.
- Buenos Aires Verbenas are also beautiful perennials in bloom from summer to autumn. All light and airy, their mauve-blue flower umbels are accompanied by a constant flurry of foraging insects.
- Sedums or Autumn Stonecrops (‘Autumn Joy’, for example) bring colour in early autumn when the garden starts to lack flowers. They bloom from August until November. With their colours ranging from deep to soft or bright, they add much charm to the late season.
- Chrysanthemums are a great way to achieve colour late in the season. They reward us from September to November with their colourful daisy-like flowers beautifully complementing the fiery foliage and last blooms of autumn.
Among other late-flowering perennials, consider Gauras, with their butterfly-like flowers dancing in the breeze, the Heleniums or Autumn Hélénies whose daisy-like flowers come in a wide range of warm tones and truly set the garden ablaze at the end of the season. Also think of Achilleas, Echinops, Phlox paniculata, Anthemis, and ornamental salvias such as the Salvia nemorosa "Blue Bouquetta" Alklf, a variety of perennial sage that offers particularly long and abundant flowering from May to October in an incredible colour, and kniphofias, some varieties of which display their fiery spikes until October (Kniphofia rooperi, ‘Traffic Lights’).
- Discover our collection of late-flowering perennials
Flowering shrubs: a screen of colours until autumn
Summer-flowering shrubs charm us with their colourful blooms and provide structure, texture, and colour to the overall decor. They are essential in sunny or semi-shaded areas, in hedges, beds, as standalone plants, or even in pots on the terrace for smaller varieties. Some are still in bloom at the end of the season, or begin to flower from mid-August to late September, gently announcing the arrival of autumn:
- The Buddleia or Butterfly Bush, whose colourful and fragrant flower spikes irresistibly attract butterflies renew from July to September-October (‘Adonis Blue’, 'Nanho Purple', Pink Panther).
- The Crape Myrtle (Lagerstroemia) or Summer Lilac that bloom in large dense bouquets of frilly flowers often offering a second flowering sometimes until October (‘Souvenir d’André Desmartis’, 'Périgord Pourpre’).
- The Hibiscus syriacus or Garden Althea that rewards us all summer with simple or double delicately crumpled flowers depending on the varieties, ranging from white to purple. They bloom in July, rebloom in August to flower again from late summer to the entrance of autumn (‘Eruption®’, ‘French Cabaret’).
- The classic Hydrangea or Hydrangea macrophylla which, with its large globular inflorescences, ensures a spectacle in late summer, especially as their flowers change colour as they mature. 'Endless Summer’ is part of an extremely remontant series, as it flowers from early summer until October.
- The Lavatera which forms very pretty long-flowering bushes. It produces, from June to September-October, a multitude of lovely satin-like flowers resembling hibiscus flowers, in pink, blue, or white.
- The Siberian Sage or Perovskia that gracefully fits into natural scenes, forming a graceful bush with aromatic silvery foliage and lavender-blue flowers. 'Silvery Blue‘ offers an endless summer bloom of very bright lavender blue.
- Flowering Shrubs are very floriferous shrubs whose flowering extends from May to October depending on the climate. Like Hot Lips’, they are capable of blooming abundantly from late summer to frost.
Among other late-flowering shrubs, we can mention ceanothus, which produce clusters of vibrant blue flowers, spiraeas, whose small delicate flowers attract many pollinating insects, hardy fuchsias (Fuchsia magellanica 'Ricartonii') or the Vitex agnus castus ‘Latifolia’ which adorns itself with violet-blue flower panicles in August-September.
Summer bulbs: an underground surprise
Designed to colour your beds, borders, and pots until autumn, these buried treasures reveal their late blooms when other plants begin to fade. Among the most beautiful bulb flowers that we can enjoy fully until autumn:
- Dahlias are the champions of long-lasting blooms, from June or July to September or October (until November in temperate climates). Ball Dahlias, giant or dwarf, for beds, decorative, cactus or semi-cactus, or even landscape”, fanciful or sober, exuberant or romantic, these generous summer-flowering bulbs offer an infinite choice for the gardener. They also produce excellent cut flowers. Their brilliant display in late summer and autumn is a reward for the gardener's patience. Be careful, as they are frost-sensitive, they need to be dug up in autumn in cold regions.
- Inca Lilies or Alstroemerias are magnificent vigorous bulbous plants that produce a multitude of stylised, brightly coloured flowers, often brown-striped from June to October. They are suitable for both bouquet making and for decorating beds and pots.
- Gladioli are another bulbous plant that blooms in grand style, from July until September-October, showcasing their long colourful spikes. They accompany vegetables right into the vegetable garden!
- Cannas, with their large tropical leaves and flamboyant flowers, add an exotic and lush note in late summer. They can reach heights of 1.5 to 2 m. We appreciate them for their warm-toned blooms, yellow, orange, or red, as well as for their extremely decorative foliage. Some, like Canna 'Durban', will bloom from July until frost (before being brought indoors for winter).
Finally, do not overlook the Lycoris, also known as red spiders. These bulbs offer a fascinating display with their bare stems emerging from the ground in late summer, followed by exotic trumpet-shaped flowers, Eucomis, and the Crocosmias that bloom in late summer for two months, in fiery colours that pair well with autumn foliage.
- All our summer bulbs
Grasses: the dancers of the ending summer
Grasses are essential plants for any gardener wishing to extend the beauty of their garden beyond summer. Their beauty reveals itself at the end of the season and persists even in winter when their stems dry. Beyond their fine and graphic foliage, grasses are also decorative with their light, fine, or feathery blooms. With their graceful and moving appearance, they can mask deflowered plants and remain decorative even in winter when their spikes are faded. Their airy silhouette and subtle hues harmonise perfectly with the colour palette of late blooms, adding texture and movement to the garden landscape. They are ideal companions for autumn-flowering perennials such as asters, hardy chrysanthemums, and Japanese anemones. Among those that bloom in late summer:
- Pennisetums, or "Fountain Grass," stand out with their remarkably silky spikes, dancing elegantly in the wind. While all bloom until October, some, like Pennisetum alopecuroïdes ‘Hameln’ reserve their broom-shaped spikes in cream-white with brown reflections for the very end of summer, in September-October.
- Miscanthus, or "Chinese Reed", which from August to October rewards us with a rich bloom, pink, red, or silver depending on the varieties, in silky panicles that shimmer under the declining sun. Their foliage, ranging from green to golden, offers a superb contrast with the colourful flowers.
- Don’t forget the “Diamond Grass” (Calamagrostis brachytricha) which is among the most beautiful autumn grasses with its beige spikes tinged with purple that endure even under frost.
As summer draws to a close and the days shorten, a hint of melancholy may arise in the gardener. This is the end-of-summer blues, a nostalgia for the past splendour of the garden in full bloom. Rather than fearing the end of summer, rejoice! While many plants fall asleep after the summer heat, others continue […]
In the peaceful world of gardening, a new threat is emerging, sending shivers down the spines of agapanthus lovers across France. Indeed, the agapanthus gall midge, a small African insect that was previously harmless, is becoming a growing scourge for these majestic plants. With an increase in cases in France, the question is no longer whether, but rather when and how this pest can be stopped. What is the impact of the agapanthus gall midge on our agapanthuses? How can we identify the signs of this infestation? Are there effective control methods to protect agapanthuses across the country? The beauty of our gardens is at stake: it is time to act!
Agapanthus gall midge: what is this insect?
The agapanthus gall midge, or Enigmadiplosis agapanthi, is a particularly harmful pest for agapanthuses. This insect, which belongs to the Cecidomyiidae family, originates from South Africa, like the agapanthuses themselves, but has since migrated to other parts of the world, including Europe.
The agapanthus gall midge is a tiny midge whose larvae develop within the buds and stems of agapanthuses, causing deformities and often inhibiting flowering. The damage can be significant, potentially leading to the death of the plant in the most severe (but very rare) cases.
The insect is so minuscule that only symptoms can help us determine its presence rather than direct observation.
What are the symptoms of an infestation?
Signs of an infestation by the agapanthus gall midge may include deformed or unopened flower buds, stems that wilt or turn yellow or brown, and the presence of small white larvae or orange pupae inside the stems or buds. The larvae of the agapanthus gall midge develop within the flower buds themselves. In cases of heavy infestation, the entire flowering may be halted in agapanthus crops.
How to act?
Controlling this pest can be challenging, as there is no specifically approved control method for the agapanthus gall midge. Control methods include the removal and destruction of the infested parts of the plant. But there is no need to uproot or remove your agapanthuses! Research is ongoing to find other effective control methods against this pest. However, we remain hopeful that a natural predator will come to regulate the gall midges naturally. Fingers crossed!
What is the situation in France?
Let’s not panic just yet! In Europe, the first official observations were recorded in the UK in 2015, then in the south-west of France in 2017 and later in Brittany in 2019. Since then, the agapanthus gall midge has been steadily progressing without the situation being, for now at least, truly alarming. However, the national agapanthus conservatory on the island of Bréhat, in Côtes d'Armor, is sounding the alarm and urging gardeners to be vigilant. Be sure to check your agapanthuses at home, in your gardens, and act quickly by removing the parts of the plant suspected of being attacked by this gall midge.
In Belgium, for now, the agapanthus gall midge seems to be absent. (Note: yes, we assure you, certain agapanthuses more resistant to cold, such as Agapanthus 'Black Buddhist', can be grown in Belgium and northern France, but in well-drained soil or in pots!)
To learn more, here is the document from the French Ministry of Agriculture on the subject.
In the peaceful world of gardening, a new threat is emerging, sending shivers down the spines of agapanthus lovers across France. Indeed, the agapanthus gall midge, a small African insect that was previously harmless, is becoming a growing scourge for these majestic plants. With an increase in cases in France, the question is no longer […]
With climate change, dry spells are becoming longer and earlier. Roses are not spared and sometimes suffer from this lack of water over an extended period, which can gradually lead to their decline if timely intervention is not made. It is therefore important to manage watering well and implement certain techniques to protect roses. Discover how to recognise a thirsty rose and how to save it!
1 - What are the symptoms of water stress?
Not all plants react the same way to drought. Certain physiological reactions indicate that the plant is suffering from a lack of water. It is important to know how to recognise when a rose is thirsty, so you can respond quickly:
- Leaves wilt, droop towards the ground, and begin to yellow. They dry out then detach and fall. If nothing is done, the branches will gradually become bare.
- Young shoots also wilt. They may turn brown and stop growing.
- Flowers and flower buds will also dry out and turn brown. The flowers and the tops of the stems become soft and droop towards the ground.
- If nothing is done, the rose will gradually dry out, starting from the tips of the shoots: no longer supplied with water, they become brown and brittle.
Lack of water can sometimes be confused with chlorosis: the foliage yellows, but between the veins, whereas in the case of drought, the foliage yellows uniformly. Similarly, the rose may be affected by root rot (a fungal disease), in which case it will dry out suddenly. However, it is clear that if your region is experiencing a heatwave or a dry spell, and other plants are showing signs of water stress, your rose is also suffering from this drought.
2 - Anticipating risk situations
Some situations make your rose more susceptible to drought. Here are a few of these risk situations:
- Heatwave: a prolonged period of intense heat can quickly dry out the soil and deprive your rose of the water it needs to survive.
- Container cultivation: potted roses are also at risk as the substrate dries out much more quickly than for roses in the ground.
- Recent planting: roses that have been recently planted have a less developed root system, making them more vulnerable to drought. It is therefore important to be vigilant and water regularly during the first year.
The best approach is to anticipate dry spells, by monitoring the weather and watering the garden accordingly. If you plan to be away, ask a neighbour to water your plants, or set up automatic watering or oyas. Also, consider adding a layer of mulch around your plants, and shade the roses that are in full sun if possible. If your rose is in a pot, repotting it into a larger plastic pot rather than a terracotta one will help it withstand drought better.
Be aware that some roses are particularly well-suited to heat and drought. This is the case, for example, with the Banks rose, 'Old Blush' rose, chinensis 'Mutabilis' rose, as well as rugosa roses (Rosa rugosa).
3 - How to save a rose bush suffering from drought?
Now that you have identified the problem, let's move on to the solutions. To protect your rose from heat and drought, here are some measures you can take:
- Water generously: Obviously, the most important thing is to water as soon as you realise your rose is thirsty! During periods of intense heat, increase the frequency of watering. We recommend watering early in the morning or late in the evening to minimise evaporation. Direct the stream at the base of the plant, avoiding wetting the foliage. Indeed, water droplets on the leaves create a "magnifying glass" effect, which can burn the plant by amplifying solar radiation. Additionally, this promotes fungal diseases.
Better to water generously than to water several times superficially. This way, the water penetrates deeper into the soil, encouraging the plant to develop deep roots, whereas with superficial watering, the water remains near the surface, and the soil dries out more quickly.
- Mulch: Mulching is an excellent way to retain soil moisture. Apply a good layer of organic mulch (at least 6 cm thick) around your roses. You can use, for example, dead leaves, straw, wood chips, bark, or RCW (ramial chipped wood). Mulching also limits water runoff in case of heavy rains or if the ground is sloped.
- Prune: Light pruning can help your rose manage drought better. Remove scorched stems and dry or damaged leaves. This will allow the plant to conserve its energy.
- Remove faded flowers: Indeed, flowering, followed by fruit formation (hips), requires a lot of energy from the rose. Removing them allows it to focus on survival. For fully bloomed flowers that are not yet faded, in case of severe water stress, you can remove every other one. It is indeed better to sacrifice part of the flowering to preserve the rose! This will help it recover.
- Shade: Prolonged exposure to sunlight during a heatwave can be particularly damaging to roses. You can protect them by installing shade cloths. The idea is to shelter them from direct sunlight at least during the hottest hours of the afternoon. If your roses are grown in pots or containers, simply move them to the shade.
Further reading
- Feel free to check out our articles: "Heatwave: 10 tips to protect your plants" and "Watering a garden during a heatwave"
- Our advice sheet: "Watering plants during or after a drought"
- "How to save garden plants after a drought?"
With climate change, dry spells are becoming longer and earlier. Roses are not spared and sometimes suffer from this lack of water over an extended period, which can gradually lead to their decline if timely intervention is not made. It is therefore important to manage watering well and implement certain techniques to protect roses. Discover […]
In an increasingly environmentally conscious world, efforts are being made to develop more sustainable agricultural systems. One of the ways we seek to achieve this goal is through permaculture - a holistic approach to agriculture that aims to work with nature rather than against it. Among the many questions that arise, one often comes up: what are the best trees to use in these systems? Among them, the Paulownia - a robust and fast-growing tree native to Asia - is of particular interest. Its resilience, ability to improve soil quality, and rapid growth indeed make Paulownia a promising candidate to become "the tree of the future" for permaculturists. But is this really the case? We will find out.
What is this tree?
The Paulownia tomentosa, often referred to as "the emperor tree", is a tree species native to Asia, known for its rapid growth and spectacular fragrant flowers. This giant, which can reach heights of 15 to 25 metres, not only has undeniable aesthetic appeal but also significant ecological value. Its ability to fix nitrogen in the soil, resist diseases and pests, and thrive in various soil and climate conditions has made it a popular choice for many reforestation and permaculture projects. Furthermore, Paulownia wood is lightweight, strong, and of high quality, making it a valuable resource for the timber industry. Therefore, Paulownia is increasingly recognised as a tree with immense potential to contribute to a more sustainable future.
Nota bene: there are 6 species in the genus Paulownia, but the most commonly cultivated are Paulownia tomentosa and Paulownia fortunei. The latter is distinguished from the Emperor Tree by its earlier flowering, but retains the same qualities.
Paulownia has many advantages
In the context of permaculture, Paulownia presents several notable advantages that make it interesting for sustainable agriculture projects:
- Rapid growth: Paulownia is one of the fastest-growing trees in the world. In just a few years, it can reach several metres in height, which is particularly interesting for reforestation and permaculture projects that seek to establish a forest cover quickly.
- Soil improvement: Paulownia has the ability to fix nitrogen, an essential element for plant growth, in the soil. This ability contributes to the improvement of soil quality and fertility, which is crucial in a permaculture system. The nutrient-rich leaves decompose quickly in the soil or compost, which is an additional asset.
- Resistance: These are robust trees that can withstand a wide range of climatic conditions and soil qualities. They are also resistant to diseases and pest attacks.
- High wood yield: Paulownia wood is lightweight, strong, and of high quality. It can be used for a variety of products, including furniture, musical instruments, and construction wood. It is also a species that can be used for biomass production due to its rapid growth.
- Carbon storage: Thanks to its rapid growth, Paulownia is capable of sequestering a large amount of CO2, making it an important asset in the fight against climate change.
- Shade tree and support for climbing plants: Paulownia quickly becomes an excellent shade tree, but its straight and sturdy stems can also serve as support for climbing plants. It is worth noting that the Emperor Tree is also excellent in a windbreak hedge.
A concrete example of using Paulownia in permaculture
The use of Paulownia as a "windbreak" is one of the most common examples in permaculture. Due to its rapid growth, it can provide a protective barrier against strong winds for more delicate plants or livestock. Its dense foliage can help reduce soil erosion caused by wind while retaining more moisture in the soil, which is beneficial for other plants in the system.
Moreover, Paulownia produces a large amount of biomass in a short period, which can be useful for producing mulch or compost. Its leaves are nutrient-rich and can help improve soil quality when they fall and decompose.
Can Paulownia impact local biodiversity?
Paulownia is an exotic and pioneering species. Beware of its potentially invasive character!
Paulownia is indeed a fast-growing species, which can make it competitive with local species. If its spread is not controlled, it may eventually dominate a landscape, reducing the diversity of native tree species.
Furthermore, although Paulownia can provide habitat for certain species of insects, birds, or small mammals, it is not always suitable for local wildlife. Most insects, for example, have co-evolved with specific plant species. If Paulownia replaces these trees, these animals will lose their natural habitat.
That said, it is also possible that Paulownia may have beneficial effects on local biodiversity. Its flowers attract and nourish many pollinators, and its nutrient-rich leaves can improve soil fertility when they fall and decompose.
However, it is important to keep in mind that, in general, the introduction of non-native species should be done with caution, as they can have unforeseen and potentially negative impacts on local ecosystems. It is preferable to plant native species whenever possible, as they are often in harmony with local flora and fauna.
The particular case of pioneer trees
Paulownia tomentosa and Paulownia fortunei are not the only trees that multiply some of the advantages mentioned earlier. This is the case for many so-called pioneer trees, such as Aspen, birches, Pinus pinaster, Goat willow, or Black locust. Pioneer trees are tree species that are among the first to colonise disturbed or degraded lands. They play a crucial role in restoring ecosystems, as they help stabilise the soil, improve its fertility, and prepare the ground for the arrival of other plant species. Pioneer trees are generally characterised by rapid growth, a great ability to spread by seeds, and a capacity to tolerate difficult environmental conditions, such as poor soil or extreme temperature and humidity conditions.
In an increasingly environmentally conscious world, efforts are being made to develop more sustainable agricultural systems. One of the ways we seek to achieve this goal is through permaculture – a holistic approach to agriculture that aims to work with nature rather than against it. Among the many questions that arise, one often comes up: […]
Acacia dealbata, or wattle, is a small tree that dazzles with its ornamental qualities, the delicacy of its foliage, and its sunny and delightfully fragrant flowering at the end of winter. It also generates concerns, both rightly and wrongly. Let’s explore together the reasons behind these concerns and their foundations, as well as what it truly means for an individual in their garden who is questioning the possibility of planting a mimosa. Before delving into the heart of the matter, let’s clarify the confusion sometimes made regarding its name: wattle, or Acacia dealbata, should not be confused with the false acacia, or Robinia pseudoacacia, which is sometimes incorrectly referred to as Acacia.
The wattle in France
Introduced to the Côte d'Azur in the early 19th century, Acacia dealbata was subsequently mass-planted after 1850 in this same region, which has a very favourable climate for it. It has thus naturalised thanks to these massive plantings and this climate, and it is now considered invasive in this same region. It is classified as an "Invasive exotic species." It is present throughout the Mediterranean region and can also be found along the Atlantic coast, particularly at the shoreline. It has become very prevalent in a large quarter of the south-west of the country, and it can be found as far as the English Channel. Its strong ability to sucker, especially after damage such as frost or intense fire, along with its capacity to produce shoots, explains its propensity to multiply rapidly. It also reproduces sexually through its numerous seeds, but the main mode of propagation in Europe is its vegetative reproduction. The mimosa can form dense stands that are impenetrable, thus preventing the development of other local and native species. It poses significant management issues in southern France, particularly in Provence and on the Côte d'Azur. Its proliferation in the natural environment is not controlled: it thus very directly threatens biodiversity, where it multiplies rapidly on its own. It is also considered invasive in Spain, Portugal, and Italy, to name a few nearby countries, as well as in other regions of the world. In some French regions, it is considered to be monitored (South Atlantic and Midi-Pyrénées), while in Pays de la Loire, it is classified as a potential invasive plant.
Moreover, this high concentration of a single species, which is necessarily detrimental to ecosystems, has a significant impact on water flow, drainage, and soil erosion. Finally, this species, as a member of the Fabaceae family, plays a role in nitrogen fixation, which increases its concentration in the soil, and it is this excessive presence that creates this imbalance.
The methods of control are therefore substantial: manual removal of young plants, removal of fallen seeds, and cutting of large specimens. In the latter case, it is also necessary to treat the stump mechanically or chemically to prevent shoots.
Are you concerned about the invasive nature of wattle in your garden?
In fact, no, because while the wattle we are discussing here, Acacia dealbata, does exhibit this characteristic of significant suckering, today we offer for sale grafted specimens onto another species of wattle, Acacia retinodes, which is less hardy but not very suckering. It is also more sensitive to cold.
Other aspects often mentioned regarding wattle
Wattle is sometimes blamed for its potential allergenic nature for those sensitive to pollen allergies or hay fever. Its contribution to these seasonal allergies, while not impossible, should be quite limited, as wattle is an entomophilous plant. Its pollen is dispersed by insects. The most allergenic plants have pollen that is wind-borne, which are anemophilous plants. Moreover, the pollen grains of wattle are grouped into small conglomerates: being heavier, they fall to the ground more quickly and, being denser, they are less likely to traverse the respiratory pathways. Measurements taken in Australia (where wattle originates) in 2008 found only 2.5% of pollen from Acacia dealbata in the total pollen of the surrounding air.
Another issue encountered is that Acacia dealbata has a significant and powerful root system that can cause damage to underground pipes, crack foundations, and lift flooring. Once again, to mitigate this risk, one chooses a grafted specimen on Acacia retinodes, also known as the four-season wattle.
Acacia retinodes as a rootstock also has the advantage of tolerating calcareous soils, whereas Acacia dealbata alone thrives only in acidic soil. The variety Acacia dealbata 'Gaulois Astier', which is also grafted onto Acacia retinodes, is also frequently encountered. Otherwise, discover other species of wattle, whose flowers are similar, grouped in racemes of yellow globules, but with different foliage, habit, and height.
Finally, Acacia dealbata emits allelopathic substances through its leaves and flowers during the flowering period, so in this case, the rootstock does not change anything. Between January and March, these compounds negatively impact the development of multiple seeds in the soil, which is their germination period. Many plants are thus likely to struggle to grow under its canopy, while others will be indifferent to its presence. Grasses, spurges, periwinkle, are not likely to be bothered by its proximity, and surely many other plants as well.
If this last reason makes you want to consider another choice, you can plant a beautiful Baguenaudier or Colutea arborescens instead of a wattle. Also consider Coronilla, a lovely shrub with wattle-like yellow flowers, or even Laburnum or cytisus.
Acacia dealbata, or wattle, is a small tree that dazzles with its ornamental qualities, the delicacy of its foliage, and its sunny and delightfully fragrant flowering at the end of winter. It also generates concerns, both rightly and wrongly. Let’s explore together the reasons behind these concerns and their foundations, as well as what it […]
We love variegated foliage... or not. But in any case, it never fails to leave gardeners indifferent. You can find perennials, trees or shrubs with variegated or marbled foliage in white, cream, yellow, or another colour... Sometimes simply marginate, sometimes almost entirely devoid of green... But the question we are asking today is: what causes this foliage or another part of the plant to become bicoloured or multicoloured?
What is a variegated foliage?
We refer to variegation when a part of a leaf, flower, or even fruit appears "discoloured." These discoloured parts are completely or partially devoid of chlorophyll, the pigment that gives the green colour and enables photosynthesis.
It is important to know that a green leaf contains chlorophyll (we should even say chlorophylls, as there are several types), but also a certain amount of other pigments that are more or less hidden: carotin, xanthophyll, anthocyanin... When chlorophyll disappears, the other pigments become visible. This is what gives the yellow, orange, red, or brown colours of leaves in autumn when chlorophyll naturally fades. For variegations, it works on a similar principle, except that it is not the decrease in light that causes chlorophyll to disappear, but other reasons. When chlorophyll partially disappears, we end up with white, cream, yellow... and sometimes even pink or red spots.
Where do these variegations come from?
Variegations in a leaf can arise from various causes:
The most common case is mutation-induced variegation. A young seedling or part of a plant mutates and suddenly becomes variegated. Since the variegation is not stable, and therefore not sexually reproducible, these plants should be propagated vegetatively (cuttings, layering, grafting). Be on the lookout for such mutations in your own garden. You never know, you might obtain a remarkable new variety.
Variegations can also be caused by a virus. This is rarer, but it does happen. A benign virus infects the plant, which in response produces variegated parts (leaves, flowers, fruits). This is the case with most variegated-leaved Hibiscus, such as Hibiscus 'Summer Ruffle', or with bicoloured tulip varieties;
Finally, some variegations are entirely natural. Indeed, certain plant species have evolved to develop variegated or punctate parts. Botanists do not have explanations for all these species. However, it can be said that the natural variegation of certain species is a defence mechanism, as seen in Hypoestes which produce leaves speckled with small dots or in Adelonema walisii which reveals very variegated leaves of yellow-cream. The former gives the illusion that the plant has already been eaten by an insect, while the latter is camouflaged in the decor to avoid being browsed by herbivores. Some species may also use variegations to more effectively attract pollinators, as seen in Euphorbia marginata.
But is it serious, doctor?
As mentioned, even if variegation is caused by a virus, this virus is completely benign. However, having a low chlorophyll content within a leaf can lead to reduced vigour. In other words, a variegated variety will often grow a little slower than its green-leaved counterpart. But don’t let that stop you from planting them!
One small note, however: some variegated mutations are so low in chlorophyll that it would be impossible to propagate them by cuttings, as the cutting would not have enough energy to produce roots. These mutations are therefore propagated by grafting (which significantly increases the purchase price).
A bit of botany
We find Latin terminologies in some species names or the names of old variegated varieties such as: variegata, marginata, pulverulenta...
- Variegata for variegation: meaning variegated, as in Cornus controversa 'Variegata';
- Maculata: meaning maculate, thus a large coloured spot, as in Phlox maculata or Begonia maculata;
- Marginata: meaning marginate, thus bordered by a fine coloured band, as in Agave angustifolia 'Marginata';
- Striata : meaning striate or marbled, thus marked by coloured bands of varying widths, as in Bletilla striata;
- Punctata : meaning punctate, thus sprinkled with small coloured dots or spots, as in Lysimachia punctata;
- Pulverulenta : meaning it seems to have been sprinkled with a lighter substance, as in Catalpa speciosa 'Pulverulenta';
- Reticulata : which colouring follows the pattern of the veins, as in Iris reticulata;
- Crotonifolia : with Croton-like leaves (a famous houseplant - Codiaeum variegatum), thus exhibiting irregular discolouration, as in Aucuba japonica 'Crotonifolia'.
Did you know? Since 1956, breeders have not been able to use Latin to name new varieties and cultivars. The choice has mainly fallen on the English language, although exceptions exist. This is why we find words like 'Gold', 'Silver', 'Rainbow', 'Cream'... in the names of plant varieties featuring variegations.
We love variegated foliage… or not. But in any case, it never fails to leave gardeners indifferent. You can find perennials, trees or shrubs with variegated or marbled foliage in white, cream, yellow, or another colour… Sometimes simply marginate, sometimes almost entirely devoid of green… But the question we are asking today is: what causes […]
So simple, so refreshing, so endearing, daffodils or narcissi (they are the same) symbolise the return of spring! Depending on the variety, flowering occurs from late February for the earliest to mid-May for the latest. They illuminate borders, beds, rockeries, and window boxes with their natural charm, offering a myriad of often single flowers and sometimes double ones. But what a pleasure it is to gather full bunches of daffodils to create fresh, spring bouquets that will fill the home with their often sweet fragrance. Under good conditions, these freshly cut daffodils last up to 15 days in a vase. Follow my tips and bring spring into your home!
1. Choose fragrant daffodils
All varieties of daffodils, from the simplest to the most sophisticated, are well-suited for bouquet making. You can choose from the most prolific and reliable varieties with sturdy stems that hold well in a vase. Consider 'Cassata', a graceful light yellow daffodil, known as orchid-like flowered, which is interesting for bouquets, the Narcissus 'Dick Wilden', a reliable choice with its large bright yellow double flowers, or the Narcissus 'Dutch Master', timeless, the true large-flowered golden yellow daffodil! The Narcissus ‘Flower Record’ is another must-have daffodil variety with its large white flowers and bright yellow crown edged in orange. Treat yourself to bunches of daffodils from the end of winter with the Narcissus 'February Gold' which is one of the first to bloom in the garden, sometimes as early as February and lasting until May or even June with the Narcissus ‘Sherborn’. And don’t miss out on their distinctive fragrance by choosing fragrant daffodils, such as the poet's daffodil ('Actaea', 'Recurvus', narcissus poeticus 'Albus Plenus Odoratus'), intensely fragrant.
2. Select healthy, budded flowers!
Pick your daffodils when the bud is coloured (wait until the flower's colour is fully visible) and just starting to open. Picked this way at the onset of their blooming, they last about ten days in a vase. Choose healthy flowers with intact stems. No need to use pruning shears; just gently cut the stems by hand or with a small knife to detach them from the bulb.
- Remove the lower leaves from each stem so they do not touch the water in the vase
- Quickly place the cut flowers in fresh water to preserve them
- Place your bouquet in a clean vase filled with water
- Avoid placing the vase in direct sunlight, but in a relatively cool spot
- Change the water regularly
3. Let them be solitary!
Daffodil stems contain sap that quickly wilts other flowers in a vase, particularly tulips. They are not good companions… We advise you not to mix them with other cut flowers, or you will have to change the water daily to better preserve your bouquet. The solution: soak the ends of the daffodil stems in hot water for 1 to 2 minutes to cauterise them before placing them in their vase. This way, you can enjoy your mixed flower bouquet for longer!
4. Choose the right vase
When choosing a vase, let your imagination run wild! A multitude of containers is available to showcase their vibrant and refreshing colours. Personally, I like to place daffodils in a clear glass vase, allowing me to enjoy the graphic display of their green stems. This could be, for example, a repurposed jar as a clever and pretty vase, simple yet effective, or a water carafe that creates a simple, natural, and poetic arrangement. Ceramic pots, especially blue Delft porcelain, will highlight the sunny yellow of their flowers. Placed in a zinc bucket or an enamel jug, they will embody a recycled or vintage spirit.
5. Mix them wisely
So, since other flowers do not tolerate their presence, what can you pair them with in a bouquet? Think of branches, such as twisted willows or catkins, those of decorative wood dogwoods, or spring-flowering shrubs like forsythias, lilacs, or Japanese quinces. Decorative foliage like that of eucalyptus or stems of ferns will look stunning with daffodil flowers.
So simple, so refreshing, so endearing, daffodils or narcissi (they are the same) symbolise the return of spring! Depending on the variety, flowering occurs from late February for the earliest to mid-May for the latest. They illuminate borders, beds, rockeries, and window boxes with their natural charm, offering a myriad of often single flowers and sometimes double ones. But […]
With climate change, we regularly hear about hot and dry summers that cause suffering to plants, including trees (and not just them!). However, we also forget that plants need a period of rest, winter. If this winter is not cold enough, it can lead to detrimental consequences for the health of trees and bushes. Let's take stock!
Meteorological observations
One year is not like another, especially in our time. However, it is now not uncommon to encounter temperatures well above seasonal averages, whether in the south or further north. What specialists sometimes refer to as "non-winters". And this is unlikely to improve, that much is certain. Indeed, throughout history, humans have experienced exceptional years, some with particularly mild winters. The problem is that the exceptional is becoming the norm and that practically every year winters are getting less and less cold. With climate change, the same ocean winds of the past are bringing more air, and this air is warmer because the ocean water is also warmer. Furthermore, the reduction in snow-covered areas will amplify the effect by no longer performing its cooling function. In other words, the effect will accelerate in the coming years.
Also read: researchers at CNRS have developed a method to determine whether an extreme weather event is due to climate change or not.
What consequences for trees?
If temperatures are mild, sap will start to circulate again, some plants will come out of dormancy and begin to bud. This would not have such serious repercussions if a period of severe frost did not systematically follow in the weeks after. This frost will destroy the buds, flowers, and even part of the young foliage. No flowers, no fruits! And if the foliage is destroyed, the tree will exhaust itself trying to form another. Once is fine! Every year: hello damage! Note that some trees, bushes, or spring-flowering bulbs are adapted to winter cold, even late cold. For these, like the male dogwood or snowdrops: cold? Not a problem!
The tree's cycle can also be completely disrupted. Indeed, many plants need a period of cold to come out of dormancy, which is called vernalisation. This vernalisation will trigger a process of flower formation. It is the transition between the vegetative stage and the reproductive stage. However, if this cold period does not occur (or not at the right time), the tree will not produce flowers with all that this implies. For example: cherry trees need an average of just over 1000 hours at a temperature below 7°C to start flowering, while apple and pear trees need between 200 and 1400 hours.
Are we heading towards a fruit shortage within 100 years?
Hard to say... But this climate warming is acting so quickly that plants cannot evolve fast enough to cope with these changes. Fruit trees and bushes are indeed at risk of no longer being able to flower or producing stunted flowers that yield misshapen or small fruits. Additionally, pollinating insects are also affected. They often emerge too early at the end of winter, at a time when trees are not yet in bloom. When we know that a large majority of insects have co-evolved with specific plant species (in other words, a particular insect species is capable of pollinating a specific plant), these trees are doomed to disappear along with the insects that depend on them. In short: the future does not look bright...
With climate change, we regularly hear about hot and dry summers that cause suffering to plants, including trees (and not just them!). However, we also forget that plants need a period of rest, winter. If this winter is not cold enough, it can lead to detrimental consequences for the health of trees and bushes. Let’s […]
Trees or woody plants (which produce wood) are fascinating in many ways. So fascinating that they are even the subject of a science in its own right: dendrology. But what exactly is dendrology? What does a dendrologist study and why? Let's clarify in this short article.
Dendrology in a nutshell
Dendrology, from the Greek "dendron" meaning tree and "logos" meaning study, is the science that studies woody plants (trees, bushes, shrubs, and lianas). The term was coined in 1688 by an Italian naturalist Ulisse Aldrovandi. A person who studies this science is a dendrologist. They may work in forestry operations or wood processing, within government agencies or nature conservation organisations.
In France, there is the French Society of Dendrology and in Belgium, you can find the Belgian Society of Dendrology.
Dendrology is a multifaceted science
In dendrology, various species of trees are studied: botanical classification and species recognition by morphology, such as the shape of leaves for example (the classical classification known as Cronquist) or by common evolution among species (phylogenetic classification). The boundary between plant taxonomy and dendrology is relatively blurred, but dendrology also deals with many other areas beyond botanical classification.
However, dendrology has several other branches (which is fitting when studying... trees): dendrochronology, which can determine the age of a tree or date a piece of wood using growth rings (or tree rings), and dendrometry, which allows for measuring the diameter, height, and volume of a tree, as well as its age or the thickness of its bark. There is also dendrogeomorphology, which studies geological and climatic processes through the observation of tree growth rings.
Nota bene: in archaeology, dendrochronology is often used to date an element, as well as xylology, a science that studies wood as a material and its physical and chemical properties. The two disciplines are complementary and help determine what type of wood was used, thus providing insights into the flora surrounding our ancestors. The science that studies fossilised wood is called paleoxylology.
What is the purpose of dendrology?
Dendrology, and especially dendrometry, serves various fields:
- Forestry (wood exploitation): calculating the size, age, shape... of cultivated trees (such as poplar plantations) and in forests, general tree management;
- Forest management and protection: combating diseases and wood-eating pests, protection against fires...;
- Wood industry: calculating volume (dendrometry) and studying the physical properties of wood;
- Ecology: studying the distribution and range of botanical species as well as the evolution of wooded environments, and also studying forest ecosystems and their evolution in the face of climate change;
- Archaeology: dating and determining the wood present at an excavation site, allowing for dating and gaining insights into the flora and lifestyle of people who once lived in that area;
- Customs: through the identification of a wood species in the context of combating deforestation and the importation of protected or prohibited species;
- Judicial: a (almost) personal anecdote, one of my botany professors was called in a homicide investigation (in the 1980s) to determine the exact species of a log that had been used to commit a murder. When we say that dendrology leads to everything... Nowadays, forensic police have botanical experts in their ranks.
Trees or woody plants (which produce wood) are fascinating in many ways. So fascinating that they are even the subject of a science in its own right: dendrology. But what exactly is dendrology? What does a dendrologist study and why? Let’s clarify in this short article. Dendrology in a nutshell Dendrology, from the Greek “dendron” […]
Some gardeners avoid using pine needles above all else for fear that it will overly acidify their soil. Others, however, keep them as mulch or even mix them with the planting soil to lower the pH for certain acidophilous plants. This is indeed a common piece of advice found in books and on websites, sometimes even from specialists. But do pine needles or other conifers (cedars, firs, larches...) really influence soil pH? Is it, on the contrary, a bad idea to use pine needles as mulch? Let's clarify!
The Alleged Acidity of Pine Needles
In reality, it is the green needles, still on the tree, that are the most acidic. The brown and dry needles that fall to the ground are much less so: the pH (potential hydrogen) is around 6.5, which is close to neutrality (which is at 7). The optimal pH for most plants is between 6.0 and 7.0. With such low acidity, it is easy to understand that pine needles will have very little impact as mulch at the base of acidophilous plants like heather soil plants (Rhododendrons, azaleas, heathers, kalmias, Andromedas...). Moreover, if you analyse the pH of the soil under a pine and the pH under a deciduous tree in the same soil (for example, in the same garden), you will find that the pH will be the same within a few tenths. You can find here the summary of the conclusions from Norwegian researchers on this subject.
Did you know?: Contrary to what we learned in our chemistry classes, where a solution was acidic below pH 7, neutral at 7, and basic above 7, this notion is shifted for soils. Thus, a soil is considered alkaline at a pH of 6.6. Some plants can grow at quite low pH levels (4.5), but very few can survive in soil with a pH of 8. Fortunately, such soils are very rare.
Some people argue that nothing grows under conifers and that this is indeed a consequence of soil acidification. On one hand, this is not entirely true, as some plants thrive well under pines. On the other hand, it is not this alleged acidity that is the problem, but rather the sometimes dense shade under certain conifers, and the numerous roots that absorb rainwater and nutrients to the detriment of other plants.
Soil pH is Not Easily Modified
The pH of a soil is stable, as it is primarily determined by the parent rock. The soil microflora and some chemical agents act as a buffer to maintain the pH. Therefore, if you wish to modify the acidity or alkalinity of a soil, you will need to use massive doses of sulphur to acidify or, conversely, lime to raise the pH. We do not recommend this for obvious economic and ecological reasons. Moreover, as soon as the application of these products stops, the soil pH will return to its usual level.
The pH thus depends on the subsoil (parent rock), the soil microflora, and, in part, the climate and rainfall of the area. There is also a time factor: a soil will naturally acidify gradually over the decades.
What to Do Then?
If you are used to mulching with pine needles at the base of your acidophilous plants, you can continue, as it does them no harm either. Pine needles make a good carbon mulch, although they are low in potassium. Due to their carbon content, pine needles will also find their place in compost to regulate the carbon/nitrogen (C/N) balance. Furthermore, the tannin contained in pine needles or other conifers has no real inhibitory effect on plant growth. The acidification caused by this mulching is only extremely slight and temporary, but it constitutes a good mulch that decomposes slowly to gradually form humus.
To grow heather soil plants in neutral to alkaline soil, you will need to dig a pit, remove the soil, and replace it with a very acidic substrate: true heather soil or so-called heather soil (be careful, however, as this substrate is poor and does not retain water!).
To learn more about using heather soil, read Heather Soil: How to Use It Well in the Garden?
Otherwise, you can opt for plants that are only suited to your soil, which will save you work and many inconveniences. To plant without making mistakes, you can use our PlantFit application.
A pine needle mulch does not acidify the soil deeply and over the long term.
Still relatively unknown, Synsepalum dulcificum, commonly known as the miracle fruit or miracle berry, is a species of fruit tree cultivated for its edible fruits with astonishing properties! It transforms any acidic food into something sweet, without calories. Let's discover it!
Native to the humid tropical climate of West Africa, where it is traditionally consumed before meals, Synsepalum dulcificum is a beautiful fruit tree belonging to the family of Sapotaceae. Like orchids, it is quite sensitive to cold and requires a humid atmosphere and warmth. This is why this tropical bush can only be grown in our temperate climates as a houseplant, in a conservatory or warm greenhouse that can be taken outside during the pleasant season.
The miracle fruit forms a small bush measuring about 2 to 6 m tall in its native regions, but will not exceed 1.5 m indoors. Its appeal lies in the appearance of small oval red fruits, about 2 cm long, resembling cranberries, on the lush foliage. These famous edible berries are what give the plant its miraculous reputation. And for good reason: the pulp of the "miracle fruit" contains miraculin, a protein that has the ability to impart sweetness to any food, even the most acidic!
Once in the mouth, miraculin tricks our papillae and gives the sensation that any food is sweet, hence its name. This miraculous property lasts from 15 minutes to about 2 hours, depending on individual sensitivity. These small berries could well become a true natural alternative with 0 calories, to replace sugar in cooking! The flowers bloom throughout the year, so you can enjoy several harvests.
You should cultivate it in a slightly acidic substrate (40% potting soil, 40% heather soil, and 20% sand), in a bright location but without direct sunlight, at a temperature of 20-25°C in summer (15-18°C in winter). It requires very high humidity, if not 100%: mist the plant with fresh water regularly.
And discover our unusual and exotic fruit trees!
Still relatively unknown, Synsepalum dulcificum, commonly known as the miracle fruit or miracle berry, is a species of fruit tree cultivated for its edible fruits with astonishing properties! It transforms any acidic food into something sweet, without calories. Let’s discover it! Native to the humid tropical climate of West Africa, where it is traditionally consumed […]
Monospecific hedges, such as those made of thuja, are often dull and not very beneficial to biodiversity. Nowadays, we prefer free, natural, and wild hedges. In this case, a variety of diverse shrubs will be planted: deciduous or evergreen, flowering shrubs, berry-producing shrubs, those with unique foliage or colourful bark... This way, they will be as beautiful as they are useful throughout the season. That was my vision for the long hedge bordering my garden. And then... I decided to plant dogwoods. Lots of dogwoods!
At first, it started gently
There was nothing in my garden, so I needed plants: trees, shrubs, perennials, bulbs. I first went to the local garden centre. As I wandered through the aisles, I finally entered the realm of shrubs. Organised alphabetically, I quickly came across the colourful dogwoods. I picked one, a Cornus alba 'Aurea' (I still remember it!), then a second of a different variety, a Cornus alba 'Sibirica', followed by yellow-stemmed dogwoods, Cornus sericea 'Flaviramea', then another, another, and yet another. In the end, I had two carts filled solely with these dogwoods. So much so that a lady approached me and asked a lot of questions about the store. I stammered that I wasn't part of the team and was quite unable to answer her. In reality, she thought I was an employee restocking the shelves...
Lots of dogwoods...
The area to plant was a straight hedge of about thirty metres. It welcomed:
- some white dogwoods: Cornus alba 'Aurea', Cornus alba 'Sibirica', Cornus alba 'Bâton rouge', Cornus alba 'Elegantissima'
- some silky dogwoods: Cornus sericea 'Flaviramea' and Cornus sericea 'Cardinal'
- some blood dogwoods: Cornus sanguinea species type, Cornus sanguinea 'Anny's Winter Orange' and Cornus sanguinea 'Winter Beauty'
- and even two or three male dogwoods
Thus, I created a free hedge, beautiful in winter thanks to the colourful stems, lovely in spring due to the early flowering of the male dogwood, and stunning in autumn with the various foliage that takes on magnificent hues. The flowers nourish pollinators, and the fruits feed the birds (and the gardener in the case of the male dogwood). All these plants are deciduous, but it didn't matter; I was quite pleased with the result.
But not just that...
Later on, I succumbed to other shrubs, I must admit. I planted or allowed a good number of native species to grow, such as black elder, guelder rose, hazel, European spindle... And adopted other more "exotic" shrubs like a Callicarpa 'Profusion', a blood currant, cotoneasters, and a weigela. Over the years, the dogwood hedge has transformed into a simple free hedge. However, I do plan to repeat the experience in another area of the garden, but this time pushing the envelope further: a true dogwood hedge. An alignment of decorative-stemmed dogwoods, preferably of the same variety.
My tips
If you wish to create this type of hedge at home, I have a couple of things to share.
Firstly, create large patches of colour, especially in winter. By this, I mean only plant large groups of dogwoods with the same stem colour (or even foliage), as this will look more attractive in winter. You could even try an entire line made up solely of shrubs with the same stem colour: for example, a series of Cornus alba with red stems.
In my case, the hedge adjacent to the neighbouring plot had to be straight, but nothing prevents you from creating a hedge in a curve, crescent shape or making it undulate within a large lawn.
Last tip, avoid dogwoods that sucker too much, like the blood dogwood and some of its cultivars. Choose more "well-behaved" dogwoods, otherwise they will tend to stray from the alignment.
Also read
If you want to know everything about decorative-stemmed dogwoods, read these various articles and advice sheets:
- The most beautiful varieties of decorative-stemmed dogwoods: the 12 most beautiful
- How to pair decorative-stemmed dogwoods? Virginie shares her good advice.
Monospecific hedges, such as those made of thuja, are often dull and not very beneficial to biodiversity. Nowadays, we prefer free, natural, and wild hedges. In this case, a variety of diverse shrubs will be planted: deciduous or evergreen, flowering shrubs, berry-producing shrubs, those with unique foliage or colourful bark… This way, they will be […]
Hellebores are perennials distinguished by their beautifully coloured winter flowering. Their flowers come in shades of pink, red, purple, white, and yellow, with petals surrounding a very decorative bouquet of central stamens. Their flowers are sometimes beautifully speckled with purple spots. A new range of hellebores has recently joined our catalogue: we are proud to present these varieties to you today!
To learn everything about hellebores, feel free to consult our complete guide: “Hellebores: planting and cultivating them”
1 - What are the advantages of these new varieties?
The new varieties we are presenting today are from the ViV and HGC ranges (Helleborus Gold Collection). They encompass several dozen varieties, offering a very wide choice! They are particularly notable for being produced through in vitro propagation.
In vitro propagation is a multiplication technique carried out in a laboratory that allows for the production of new young plants from a fragment of the mother plant. It is somewhat akin to micropropagation: a small section of the plant is taken, placed in a suitable medium, and it will develop into a complete young plant.
This guarantees uniform young plants: the new young plants are rigorously identical to the one from which they originated, as they are clones with the same genome. This represents a significant advantage in the case of hellebores, as when they are multiplied by sowing, the new young plants exhibit colour variations and are generally not true to the original variety. Indeed, classic varieties hybridise very easily with one another.
In vitro hellebores therefore provide an excellent solution to ensure variety conformity. Moreover, with selective breeding work, the hellebores from these ranges are generally more compact, more floriferous, and they offer more colourful and intense flowering. They are also free from viruses and diseases.
Discover the most beautiful varieties
Hellebores from the ViV range:
- Hellebore ViV Victoria: This is probably one of the most beautiful Oriental hellebores. It is a stunning variety with violet flowers, featuring five petals, contrasted by a bouquet of yellow stamens. It forms a compact clump, about 40 cm tall.
- Hellebore ViV Ariana: ‘Ariana’ is a beautiful variety with downward-facing double flowers: these consist of several rows of imbricate petals, in a purplish pink colour, speckled with small purple spots. This gives the flowers a sophisticated and elegant appearance.
- Hellebore ViV Celestina: This superb variety flowers early, as soon as September, producing simple flowers with light pink petals, beautifully speckled with purple.
- Hellebore ViV Lucrezia: ‘Lucrezia’ stands out with its very bright yellow flowers! They consist of five petals, surrounding a central collar and a heart of stamens. They bloom from January to February, bringing a touch of light in the middle of winter!
- Hellebore ViV Maeva: This is a beautiful variety with simple flowers, featuring yellow petals speckled with small purple spots. This makes its flowering intense and contrasting! With its compact size, it is well-suited for pot cultivation.
- Hellebore ViV Gianina: ‘Gianina’ is an early variety, flowering as soon as September, and offers beautiful pure white double flowers. The flowers are large, consisting of several rows of petals, and feature a bouquet of yellow stamens at the centre.
Hellebores from the HGC range:
- Hellebore lemperii Leona: This hellebore bears large flowers with dark red petals, surrounding a heart of yellow stamens, well contrasted. Its intense colour is appreciated! It is ideal in pots, to bring colour to a balcony or terrace.
- Hellebore lemperii Liara: ‘Liara’ bears large simple flowers (up to 10 cm in diameter) from December, consisting of five petals in pale pink, with a deeper pink reverse, offering beautiful colour nuances. This is a very romantic flowering!
- Hellebore lemperii Linn: This variety offers simple cream-white flowers, adorned with yellow stamens. It forms a well-compact clump and bears particularly large flowers, reaching about 15 cm in diameter.
3 - How to cultivate them?
Hellebores will thrive if you plant them in shade or partial shade, in rich, cool, but well-drained soil. They have the advantage of being perfectly hardy, tolerating temperatures of around –15 to –20 °C. These new varieties, being floriferous and compact, are perfect for pot cultivation on a terrace, balcony, or windowsill, but they can also be planted in the ground. You can pair them with the decorative foliage of heucheras, the beautiful yellow flowering of Eranthis hyemalis, and the delicate white bell-shaped flowers of snowdrops. Also consider winter-flowering shrubs, such as Viburnum x bodnantense 'Dawn', Daphne odora 'Aureomarginata', and Hamamelis.
4 - To learn more
- Our complete guide: “Hellebores: planting and cultivating them”
- Find all our articles on hellebores by clicking here.
- For more options, discover our entire range of hellebores
- The ViV hellebores website and the HGC hellebores website
Hellebores are perennials distinguished by their beautifully coloured winter flowering. Their flowers come in shades of pink, red, purple, white, and yellow, with petals surrounding a very decorative bouquet of central stamens. Their flowers are sometimes beautifully speckled with purple spots. A new range of hellebores has recently joined our catalogue: we are proud to […]
Uncontrolled frenzy around the tulip, tulipomania is considered the first speculative bubble in history. This enthusiasm for a small, familiar bulb, now affordable for everyone, seems unimaginable! Yet, before becoming the most popular flower in its category, the tulip indeed travelled and became a coveted item exchanged for a fortune.
So why this tulip crisis? What legacy have tulips left us? Let’s travel back a few centuries to trace the tulip and its incredible journey in Europe…
What is tulipomania?
Much has been said and written about tulipomania, that moment in European history when tulips were sold for exorbitant prices on the market. A troubled period, a fascinating and worrying phenomenon… It all unfolds in the 17th century, during the Dutch Golden Age, which radiates across the world, the seas, and trade.
Introduced around 1560 in the United Provinces (now the Netherlands), tulips first sparked the interest of botanists, and soon that of the general public. They garnered admiration in the Netherlands, but also in France, where they were planted in the gardens of the Louvre, with Louis XIII making them a symbol of luxury, and Louis XIV adopting this flower as the official flower of the court…
It was Charles de l’Ecluse (Carolus Clusius), a botanist and professor at the University of Leiden, who began planting the bulb in the sandy soils of the university garden in 1594, thus reproducing the tulip.
Horticulture was already developing in the province of Holland, where around fifty varieties were known by 1580. But by 1630, everything accelerated: over 100 different species of tulips arrived in less than a century.
The tulip became synonymous with success, an outward sign of wealth, and the powerful elite of the country understood this well. One must have them in their garden. Flemish bourgeois, nobles, and tavern owners began cultivating tulips, with some even abandoning their flourishing businesses and shops…
It became so coveted that sales now took place on a secondary market. The tulip became an object of speculation. A financial system was even established around what were called effect notes: from 1635 onwards, this mechanism allowed bulbs to be sold year-round, even while still in the ground, whereas previously tulips were sold in spring when one could assess the flower's conformity. A simple paper was signed, a sort of tulip share, where the merchandise was no longer visible... This sparked unparalleled enthusiasm, exchanging titles multiple times a day to drive prices up.
Tulips were exchanged for astronomical prices, or for land, livestock, silver cups, tons of grain, and other absurdities. It was said that the price of a beautiful bourgeois house on the Dutch canals could buy a single tulip or that it cost ten to twenty times the annual salary of a skilled artisan to procure the precious bulb at the height of the crisis. Even in France, tulipomania raged, as in Lille, where a tulip bulb became the currency of exchange for a brewery, which would bear the name of the tulip brewery. Between 1633 and 1637, tulips were the subject of frenzied trading, with gardens even being raided to unearth the precious bulb. The 'Viceroy' tulips streaked with lilac, and ‘Semper Augustus’, rare with marbled white petals (actually afflicted by a virus, difficult to reproduce), reached records, equivalent to 110,000 euros for a single bulb today. The bursting of the first speculative bubble in history was not far off…
In February 1637, after two years of uncontrolled growth, tulips suddenly found no buyers in Haarlem, and sold poorly, even causing a discount… unprecedented! The government had to intervene to regulate sales. Prices collapsed, word of mouth did the rest, leading to a dizzying drop in market prices.
All those who had bet on the tulip found themselves ruined overnight, while large fortunes, empires built around the tulip, had emerged a few years earlier. The enthusiasm for tulips fell almost overnight. However, the real impact on the economy of the United Provinces was not as severe as that, as the merchants involved remained a restricted elite of the country. In contrast, a moral crisis emerged, denouncing, often in the arts, the indecent profits of a part of society, as seen in Jan Brueghel the Younger's painting satirising the tulip in 1640, where he caricatures speculators as monkeys. Later, other painters would also take up this subject, such as Jean-Léon Gérôme and The Duel at the Tulip (1882), followed by various authors. This was also followed by a number of works on tulip cultivation, including the famous Treatise on Tulips in 1765.
The fascination for tulips continued to be felt until the 19th century, with the famous novel The Black Tulip by Alexandre Dumas (father) which takes us back to the previous 17th century in Holland, where the main character dreams of creating a black tulip to win a fabulous reward.
Turkey: the other land of tulips
But let’s go back even further in time to find the origins of this small bulb… and the first fans of tulips!
Tulips actually come from the East, where they grew wild in the steppes of Central Asia, between Iran, the Caspian Sea, and as far as Afghanistan. These are botanical species of very small size, in warm colours, from yellow to red. They were known and cultivated as early as the 11th century in these regions. They gradually made their way to Anatolia, first through caravans returning from the Silk Road. Then Suleiman the Magnificent conquered some of these regions in the mid-16th century, and nomadic tribes brought back these beautiful flowers in large numbers, landing in Constantinople, now Istanbul. The tulip then became the flower of the sultans.
During the reign of Suleiman the Magnificent, the tulip was everywhere: in the sumptuous gardens of the Ottoman palaces, but also on the ceremonial caftans of the sultans, fabrics, and on the Iznik ceramics, this city that would make ceramic art shine throughout the country. Tulips were a recurring motif, along with the carnation, in the ceramics of the Topkapi Palace, as well as in mosques where floral representation was common. Tulips also adorned the sultan's turbans: Suleiman was known to stick one in his. Fashion did the rest… It was indeed the Turks who first became enamoured with this small, colourful bulb! In Ottoman art, the tulip symbolised the divine.
The word tulip comes from the Persian word, tülbend, which became türban in Turkish: originally a traditional turban of the Turks, they had taken to adorning their headgear when the tulip was introduced to the country. By confusion, the name tulipan was soon attributed to the flower. The Latin name tulipa became widespread in Europe from 1593. However, in Turkey, the flower still retains its original name of lale.
It is reported that in 1554, Suleiman the Magnificent offered some bulbs to a Flemish diplomat, the ambassador of Austria in Constantinople, Ogier Ghislain de Busbecq. He is credited with introducing the tulip to Europe, as he met Charles de l'Ecluse in Vienna a few years later, to whom he handed over some bulbs. Clusius would soon leave to work in Leiden, in the Netherlands, and successfully attempt to multiply tulips there... The rest is tulipomania and its excesses...
In Istanbul, since 2005, every April, the Tulip Festival takes place, a vibrant spectacle, a true open-air exhibition, celebrating the arrival of spring by honouring the tulip in many parks across the city. This is the direct legacy of the tulip festival that took place during the time of the sultans, up to Ahmed III, in the early 18th century, the peak of tulipomania in Turkey, more commonly known by historians as the "Tulip Era".
Tulips today around the world
Since tulipomania… not much has changed in tulip production, as today, they are still primarily produced in the Netherlands, which is the world's leading producer. The tulip has become the emblematic flower of the country. Holland even has a world-renowned showcase at Keukenhof, where millions of tourists flock each year to admire the mass-planted flowerbeds. Over twenty thousand hectares are dedicated to bulb flowers in Holland, half of which is solely for tulips, still in the same region of Lisse, the cradle of production in the Netherlands, between Leiden and Haarlem.
Today, there are over 150 different varieties of tulips, and thousands of hybrids. Some producers continue to uphold a French tradition by producing and developing bulb plants, including tulips, particularly in Anjou where the sandy and loamy soil along the Loire is conducive to their cultivation, or in the Landes region.
At Promesse de fleurs, one in three spring bulbs sold is a tulip... There is no doubt that this wonderful little bulb - now affordable - has a bright future ahead!
Further reading
- Everything you need to know about the history of the tulip, with a reference book: The Tulip by Anna Pavord, (2001). Ed. Actes Sud;
- Read or reread The Black Tulip by Alexandre Dumas, a classic;
- Browse online at the BNF, the book by Charles Malo, History of Tulips (1821);
- Explore The ABC of Tulips, by Yves-Marie Allain and Catherine Garnier. 1996. Ed. Flammarion;
- Visit the Keukenhof park near Amsterdam where 7 million bulbs are planted each year, and explore the Amsterdam Tulip Museum.
- Bulbs 2026: 7 spring novelties to plant now!
Uncontrolled frenzy around the tulip, tulipomania is considered the first speculative bubble in history. This enthusiasm for a small, familiar bulb, now affordable for everyone, seems unimaginable! Yet, before becoming the most popular flower in its category, the tulip indeed travelled and became a coveted item exchanged for a fortune. So why this tulip crisis? […]
The Sambucus nigra 'Black Tower' is a black elder with undeniable ornamental qualities. It surprises with its naturally upright habit, much like its little brother 'Golden Tower'. This uniqueness makes it particularly interesting for structuring space and adding verticality to a garden.
It makes a statement with its beautiful almost black deciduous foliage. In May/June, its corymbs of pink flowers fading to cream white, which are highly visited by pollinating insects, contrast beautifully with its dark and decorative foliage. Later in the season, the flowers give way to clusters of small, round, shiny black berries, much appreciated by birds.
Perfectly hardy, it can be planted anywhere, even in regions with harsh winters, bravely withstanding temperatures down to -25 °C. Compact, it is ideal for integrating into a hedge or a shrub border in a small garden, regardless of its style. It is particularly appreciated in contemporary or Japanese gardens for its graphic quality.
In my garden, it adds depth to the border where I planted it about 4 years ago. Vigorous and fast-growing, it already boasts a lovely size with its 2m height and 1m width. Its slender and graphic silhouette brings personality to the midst of grasses such as the spectacular Stipa gigantea, clumps of Pennisetum 'Hameln', Echinacea purpurea, Eryngium planum, Sedum 'Purple Emperor', with a few touches of Knautia macedonica, not to mention the picturesque Robinia 'Twisty Baby' with its twisted branches in the background, whose tortured branches contrast with the vertical column of the elder.
As a bonus, the flowers and berries of black elder are edible… Elderflower fritters and apple-elderberry jelly are delightful treats that we love at home!
Also discover Servane's recipe: Elderberry Jam and how to dry elderflowers? Feel free to share your favourite recipe with us!
The Sambucus nigra ‘Black Tower’ is a black elder with undeniable ornamental qualities. It surprises with its naturally upright habit, much like its little brother ‘Golden Tower’. This uniqueness makes it particularly interesting for structuring space and adding verticality to a garden. It makes a statement with its beautiful almost black deciduous foliage. In May/June, […]
Ivy is a valuable plant both in the garden and in pots on the balcony or terrace! Decorative and low-maintenance, it adapts everywhere, elegantly dressing walls, fences, sheds, and covering difficult soils like the base of trees where nothing else grows. Here are excellent reasons to invite ivy into your garden!
1. Ivies are decorative all year round
Thanks to their evergreen and decorative foliage, ivies provide a beautiful presence all year round, even in winter. There is a wide range of graphic or colourful varieties, some of which are very bright: variegated with cream, white, or yellow.
2. They are worry-free plants
Champions of difficult conditions, ivies are easy plants with no particular requirements. They are content with little and adapt to everything! Once established, they grow at varying rates depending on the varieties. Finally, cold and drought do not scare them.
3. There is a variety for every corner of the garden
Ivies are particularly useful for covering a wall, a fence, a garden shed, or for carpeting a slope. Green-leaved varieties can thrive in shady corners, while variegated ones need a bit of light to maintain their colour.
4. Ivies are excellent groundcovers
In the garden, ivies protect the soil and retain moisture. They help reduce soil erosion and protect wildlife. Their cover is so dense that weeds cannot penetrate.
5. They are allies of biodiversity
Ivy attracts a host of insects, including pollinators like wild bees, hoverflies, and butterflies. It also provides shelter and food for many birds: blackbirds, blue tits, and thrushes enjoy the berries, while the wren and the goldcrest like to nest in it.
Essential varieties
Our favourites
- 'Sagittifolia': A variety with soft green foliage, original and elegant, cut into 5 lobes with a very elongated central lobe.
- 'Glacier': This ivy has small leaves beautifully variegated with grey and silver.
- 'Ivalace': A small, bright green, glossy variety with tapered lobes and edges that are more or less undulate.
- 'Sulphur Heart': A whimsical, compact, and sunny ivy with large heart-shaped leaves that are bright yellow before turning lemon green. Ideal in pots.
The champions
- 'Bellecour': Nicknamed the terror of weeds, this variety stands out with its creeping and compact habit, leaving nothing to chance.
- 'Marginata Elegantissima': Beautifully variegated with cream white, it excels in winter by taking on various shades of pink.
- 'Arbori Compact': A non-climbing variety forming a small compact bush, extremely floriferous and melliferous. Perfect for borders or low hedges.
- Hedera helix: The essential species, which adapts everywhere, particularly useful for wildlife and highly visited by bees.
Ivy is a valuable plant both in the garden and in pots on the balcony or terrace! Decorative and low-maintenance, it adapts everywhere, elegantly dressing walls, fences, sheds, and covering difficult soils like the base of trees where nothing else grows. Here are excellent reasons to invite ivy into your garden! 1. Ivies are decorative […]
In the good old days, rural life was marked by sayings concerning crops. Almost every saint on the calendar had one of these sayings associated with it, prescribing an activity for a given plant. The oral tradition is thus rich with these adages cherished by gardeners, marking the seasons with temporal references: "on Saint Catherine's Day, all wood takes root," "you plant potatoes when the lilac is in bloom," or "the first of the Ice Saints often leaves its mark.".
We thus knew until now when to sow, prune, plant, or harvest thanks to these markers. But nowadays, no one knows which saint to turn to, as the disrupted climate cycle no longer really corresponds to the sayings of our ancestors and their seasonal markers.
Disrupted seasonal markers
Indeed, in France, over a century, the average temperature has increased by 0.7 °C, and the IPCC (Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change) predicts a rise in global temperatures between 1.4 and 5.8 °C by 2100. It is unnecessary to consult specialists to observe this warming, see the consequences on our gardens, and notice a desynchronisation with traditional seasonal markers.
So, do not be surprised to see your apple or cherry tree offering a second flowering at the end of August; the fact that they are "off-season" (that's the jargon term) is a sign of this disruption to which living things do not know how to adapt, as it is so abrupt. It seems that one of the only expressions still in use in this matter is, indeed, "there are no more seasons." Amidst this disorder, our traditional sayings that punctuate the meteorological year remain a reference, a collective memory, but it must be acknowledged that we will now have to adapt them to the situation of a disrupted world.
Visible disruptions in the garden
On the scale of our Hexagon and Belgium, phenology has revealed for several years that winters are becoming milder, without sparing us from frosts, even late ones. Dry spells are set to multiply, leading to soil drying and a scarcity of fresh water.
Thus, regarding the vegetation of gardens and the nature that still surrounds us a bit, we notice:
- earlier bud bursts (the moment when leaf or flower buds open). Scientists consider that for every 1 °C increase, buds appear 5 days earlier
- an earlier ripeness of fruits
- desynchronisation between flowering preventing the cross-pollination of these fruit trees
- insufficient dormancy break and a lack of frost hardiness in plants
- inhibition of general plant development
- an increase in pests, which remain in the garden year after year and develop more rapidly with a longer breeding period due to rising temperatures
- an increase in fungal diseases
The differences in seasonal rhythms affect not only plants but also insects, birds, and all the garden fauna that feed on plants, sometimes affecting an entire food chain.
Phenology as a resilience tool
In light of this observation, if we still wish to have pleasant gardens to live in as well as regular and abundant harvests, we must take into account all current impacts, but also those anticipated. If ancestral seasonal markers are no longer very reliable, phenology, or the observation of periodic events in the lives of plants and animals (such as the appearance of leaves, flowering, the departure of migratory birds, etc.), can truly help us understand the influence of warming on our patch of land.
Get out your gardening notebooks and record your observations throughout the seasons! It is highly likely that these will be valuable for the years to come. Small shifts in sowing periods or dates of flowering, appearance of diseases or pests, for example, are worth noting to remember in subsequent years. This is resilience: adapting our gardening practices and habits to gently (or not!) adjust and avoid repeating mistakes that can discourage even the most passionate gardeners.
If you take up the challenge of these fascinating observations, you can participate in a citizen science programme on the French website of the Observatory of Seasons - created by a research group from the CNRS - to help the scientific community collect data on the seasonal rhythms of flora and fauna to understand the impact of climate change on ecosystems.
In the good old days, rural life was marked by sayings concerning crops. Almost every saint on the calendar had one of these sayings associated with it, prescribing an activity for a given plant. The oral tradition is thus rich with these adages cherished by gardeners, marking the seasons with temporal references: “on Saint Catherine’s […]
Hydrangeas are appreciated for their large spherical, flat, or conical inflorescences, often in shades of pink or blue. They have a beautiful presence in the garden, enlivening it with their colourful flowering, which generally lasts throughout the summer. However, despite the care you provide for your hydrangea, it may sometimes fail to bloom or bloom very little… even when it shows generous foliage and appears to be in good health. We explain why your hydrangea refuses to bloom and our tips to remedy the situation!
For everything you need to know about growing hydrangeas, feel free to check our complete guide “Hydrangeas: planting, pruning, and care”
1 - Because the exposure is not suitable
For it to thrive fully, it is important to grow hydrangeas in the right exposure! Too much shade or, conversely, too much sun can prevent them from blooming. Not all hydrangeas have the same sunlight requirements, and they can be divided into two groups:
- Hydrangea macrophylla and H. serrata, which prefer shade or partial shade
- Hydrangea paniculata and H. arborescens, which thrive in full sun
Thus, macrophylla and serrata hydrangeas should be sheltered from direct sunlight, at least during the hottest hours of the day. However, it is better to avoid dense and thick shade; a situation of partial shade or light shade, where they can enjoy morning sun and afternoon shade, will suit them perfectly. Paniculata hydrangeas, on the other hand, need sun: if you plant them in the shade, they will grow but will not bloom, or will bloom very little.
2 - Due to inappropriate pruning
Macrophylla hydrangeas bloom on the wood of the previous year. Therefore, it is best to avoid pruning them, or to carry out only very light pruning, as cutting too short may compromise flowering by removing the flower buds located at the tips of the stems.
In general, macrophylla hydrangeas fare better when not pruned, or pruned very little. If you do wish to intervene, you can perform very light pruning in March-April, removing only dead wood, damaged branches, and faded inflorescences. Every two years, feel free to aerate the centre of the shrub by removing a few old weakened branches, cutting them close to the ground. On the branches you keep, do not cut back more than 30 cm.
Hydrangea serrata, H. aspera, H. quercifolia, and climbing hydrangeas should also be pruned very lightly, removing only dead or damaged branches, and can easily do without pruning.
Paniculata and arborescens hydrangeas are pruned more severely. For paniculata hydrangeas, pruning involves structuring the shrub by retaining a few main framework branches and eliminating small, weak, or poorly positioned branches. Also remove branches that grow inward to aerate the centre of the shrub. On the framework branches, prune to retain only 2 to 3 pairs of buds. Arborescens hydrangeas benefit from being cut back to 30-40 cm from the ground. This will help regenerate the shrub and encourage it to produce fewer but larger and more impressive inflorescences!
To learn more, check out our advice sheets “When to prune hydrangeas?” and “How to prune hydrangeas?”
3 - Due to poor fertilisation
When grown in poor soil without amendments, hydrangeas may lack the mineral elements needed to support their flowering. They will appreciate it if you apply some well-decomposed compost at their base in spring, which you can incorporate into the soil with light scratching. Be careful, however, as excess organic matter or nitrogenous fertilisers may promote vegetative growth and foliage at the expense of flowering. In other words, your hydrangeas will look beautiful and appear to be in good health, with lovely green leaves, but may bloom very little. If you do apply fertiliser, choose one rich in phosphorus to encourage flowering.
Discover our range of fertilisers for hydrangeas
4 - Due to a late frost
In spring, when hydrangeas have formed their buds and begin to restart, a late frost can catch them by surprise and burn their buds, damaging young leaves and destroying part or all of the future flowers.
As a preventive measure, to avoid frost damage, we recommend monitoring the weather forecasts and covering your hydrangeas with fleece when there is a risk of frost.
If it is too late and the frost has already caused damage, prune the damaged parts to leave only healthy shoots and buds. The hydrangea can then concentrate its energy on these healthy parts.
5 - Due to lack of water
Hydrangeas do not tolerate drought well, and they must not lack water during the formation of flower buds; otherwise, these may dry out and never open. Hydrangeas need the soil to remain moist: do not hesitate to water them in summer and during any dry periods. Be particularly vigilant if you are growing them in a large pot or container: the substrate dries out much faster than in the ground. Feel free to apply a thick layer of organic mulch (straw, dead leaves, RCW…) at their base to help keep the soil moist for longer. The soil should not be waterlogged or remain constantly wet, as this could cause their roots to rot.
6 - Because it is too young
If your hydrangea was recently planted, it may need a few years to settle in. Rather than producing flowers, it invests its energy in developing its root system and adapting to its new growing conditions. Give it time, wait for it to form a nice leafy clump, and if the conditions suit it, your hydrangea will bloom without issue.
7 - Because it is sick
Diseases and pests impact flowering: a weakened hydrangea is likely to bloom little or not at all. Botrytis, in particular, can cause flowers and flower buds to rot. To prevent your hydrangea from getting sick, avoid excess moisture, water at the base of the plant without wetting the foliage, and ensure that air can circulate (by avoiding dense planting and lightly pruning the plant if necessary). If you notice it is affected by disease (presence of grey mould on the leaves), remove the damaged parts and spray a sulphur-based solution.
To learn how to identify and treat them, feel free to consult our advice sheet on diseases and pests of hydrangeas
Hydrangeas are appreciated for their large spherical, flat, or conical inflorescences, often in shades of pink or blue. They have a beautiful presence in the garden, enlivening it with their colourful flowering, which generally lasts throughout the summer. However, despite the care you provide for your hydrangea, it may sometimes fail to bloom or bloom […]
Let’s continue our world tour of plants by discovering stunning South African bulbs: crocosmias. Commonly known as Montbretias, these bulbous plants resemble small gladioli and grow wild in the meadows and forest edges along the eastern coast of South Africa for the most part. With their vibrant and warm colours—orange, red, yellow—these exotic summer bulbs instantly add a bright and refreshing touch to any decor. Let’s explore how they have acclimatised over the centuries in our European gardens and why these small, floriferous summer bulbs, once out of fashion, are making a grand comeback today!
What are Crocosmias?
Part bulb, part corm, crocosmias or Montbretias, also known as “crocosmie” or “montbretie,” are herbaceous perennial plants from the iris family, just like gladioli, with which they share many similarities. These beautiful exotic perennials are moderately hardy and can be grown in the same way outside of our mildest regions (it is safer to lift the corms for winter storage). They form a clump that typically reaches 60 cm in height. The larger varieties, such as ‘Lucifer’, can grow up to 1.20 m. Not demanding, crocosmia bulbs should be planted in full sun, in fertile, moist soil. And when the growing conditions suit them, they multiply over the years, returning faithfully each year, more beautiful and floriferous.
The origin of their name
The plant derives its name from the Greek words krokos (saffron) and osme (smell), due to the characteristic saffron scent emitted by its dried flowers when immersed in hot water. Its other name, Montbretia, was given to the crocosmia in honour of the botanist Antoine-François-Ernest Coquebert de Montbret (1780-1801), who was attached to the military and scientific expedition to Egypt led by General Bonaparte and his successors, and was the librarian of the first Institute of Egypt.
Africa, the cradle of Crocosmias
While Crocosmias are now cultivated worldwide, the genus comprises 9 species, all native to South Africa except for one, Crocosmia ambongensis, which is endemic to Madagascar.
The Crocosmia pottsii was introduced to England in 1877 by the English botanist and naturalist Thomas Henry Potts in the mid-19th century. Three years later, in 1880, the famous horticulturist from Nancy, Victor Lemoine, created the first hybrid: the Crocosmia X Crocosmiiflora. This is how crocosmia managed to conquer gardens in the UK, and then ours. In France, it was first observed in the wild in 1889, in the Creuse department. Its cultivation then spread to the Netherlands in the 1990s. Once rarely cultivated and neglected, Crocosmia has found its nobility by making a grand return to our gardens today!
The arrival of Crocosmias on our French coasts
Initially found mainly on the west coast of our country, particularly in Brittany and Loire-Atlantique (they thrive in open ground, especially under the Breton climate), crocosmias have spread. The Crocosmia X Crocosmiiflora has naturalised to the point of becoming invasive and is considered a pest in Great Britain and New Zealand.
Cousins and descendants
Over 400 hybrids have been created by horticulturists. Most of these varieties are derived from Crocosmia x crocosmiiflora, which results from a cross between two South African species: Crocosmia aurea and Crocosmia pottsii. Crocosmia x crocosmiiflora has produced numerous cultivars that are mostly still marketed under the name "Montbretia." Among the most remarkable fruits of these various hybridisations:
- The Crocosmia 'Emily McKenzie'; striking with its very bright orange flowers highlighted by a dark red centre.
- The Crocosmia ‘Lucifer’; the star of summer borders! It is the most well-known and certainly the tallest! This English horticultural creation was born in 1966 from the marriage of Crocosmia masoniorum and C. paniculata.
- The Crocosmia (x) crocosmiiflora 'Carmine Brillant'; one of the most floriferous Montbretias, each flower stem carries up to 100 flowers throughout the summer.
- The Crocosmia (x) crocosmiiflora 'George Davison'; a very bright variety, covered in summer with an abundant golden yellow flowering.
Crocosmias in the iarden
With their flowers reminiscent of small lilies in a wide range of warm colours, Crocosmias bring an exotic and cheerful touch to vibrant perennial borders. Their bright colours—yellow, orange, or red—create vivid and joyful splashes of colour in gardens. They are easy to mix with other flamboyant and colourful blooms such as Cannas, Castor Beans, Coreopsis, Dahlias, or Rudbeckias, along with light perennials like salvias or nepeta and/or with ornamental grasses (Stipa tenuifolia, Pennisetum...).
Discover more ideas in our sheet “Crocosmia or Montbretia: 9 pairing ideas”.
Further Reading
Let’s continue our world tour of plants by discovering stunning South African bulbs: crocosmias. Commonly known as Montbretias, these bulbous plants resemble small gladioli and grow wild in the meadows and forest edges along the eastern coast of South Africa for the most part. With their vibrant and warm colours—orange, red, yellow—these exotic summer bulbs […]