Gladiolus Lorena - Sword Lily
Gladiolus Lorena - Sword Lily
Gladiolus Lorena - Sword Lily
Gladiolus x grandiflorus (Butterfly) Lorena
Large-Flowered Gladiolus, Sword Lily
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This plant carries a 6 months recovery warranty
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We guarantee the quality of our plants for a full growing cycle, and will replace at our expense any plant that fails to recover under normal climatic and planting conditions.
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Description
The Gladiolus or Butterfly Gladiolus 'Lorena' bears remarkably contrasting flowers, pure white with a yellow throat maculated with dark orange. A colour that doesn't go unnoticed in the garden, and flowering spikes that make a sensation in bouquets. It blooms for many weeks in summer. Rarely available for sale, this variety will be the pride of the gardener who cultivates it. We deliver them in a large size of 12+ for the best flowering.
Cultivated gladioli are hybrids, they belong to the Iridaceae family. They are divided into 3 main groups: Grandiflorus (large-flowered), Primulinus (early) and Nanus (butterflies). 'Lorena', although quite unclassifiable, can be classified as Nanus, characterised by rather small and often maculated flowers, irregularly arranged on 60 to 70 cm (24 to 28in) tall stems, each carrying up to 20 florets. The upper petal of each flower has a recurved hood-like shape.
'Lorena' is a cultivar derived, among others, from the Gladiolus papilio, a species native to the marshy and mountainous areas of the Drakensberg, in South Africa. It is a perennial and deciduous herbaceous plant with stoloniferous and tuberous roots. Its foliage consists of thin, rather short, sword-shaped leaves, green-grey in colour, arranged in a fan shape and forming a tuft about 55 cm (22in) tall. The leaves are topped by a flowering stem 90 cm (35in) to 1 m (3ft) tall, ending in a 40 cm (16in) spike with numerous buds. The hooded flowers resemble those of certain orchids, or even cannas, and are carried by very thin stems. They appear in 'Lorena' in a perfect white, each petal being traversed by a fuchsia pink spot. The two small lateral petals are coloured in tender yellow and marked by an orange to red triangle at the base. The storage organ is a corm, which is a swollen stem with scales. Each corm will produce 2 or 3 flowering spikes. The foliage of the gladiolus is deciduous, it disappears a few weeks after flowering.
The 'Lorena' Gladiolus has a great chance of changing the perception of detractors of this plant, often considered stiff and lacking elegance, to the point that it is relegated among the vegetables in the vegetable garden for cut flowers. Gladioli and their long coloured spikes are a symbol of the 70s and somewhat formal floral arrangements. While they are irreplaceable in bouquets, in gardens, their silhouette needs the presence of plants with lush foliage that will enhance their flowering. Plant 'Lorena' in beds of grasses, forget-me-nots, and perennial flax for example. Play with white for elegance and add here and there silver foliage, or bronze fennel.
For bouquet making: pick, early in the morning, gladioli that have opened two or three flowers. Leave 5 to 6 leaves per stem to allow the bulb to continue its development. Remove the first two buds at the top of the flowering spike. Plant at intervals of ten days in March/April. You will have flowers all summer.
The gladiolus owes its name to the shape of its sword-like leaves, derived from the Latin, gladius. Its wild forms were often represented in jewelry or on carpets and fabrics made by the Semites before the Christian era.
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Plant habit
Flowering
Foliage
Botanical data
Gladiolus
x grandiflorus
(Butterfly) Lorena
Iridaceae
Large-Flowered Gladiolus, Sword Lily
Cultivar or hybrid
Planting and care
The 'Lorena' Gladiolus loves rich, fertile but well-drained soils, so sandy soils are ideal. Plant it in full sun. Space the bulbs 10 to 15cm (4 to 6in) apart and cover them with 10cm (4in) of soil. Avoid using manure to fertilise the soil as it promotes bulb rot. Gladiolus bulbs are susceptible to frost, so they should be dug up when they are withered or immediately after the first frost. Cut the leaves and let them dry in a well-ventilated place for three weeks. Separate the old bulbs, store the new bulbs and bulblets throughout the winter in a cool place that is protected from frost. The bulblets will bloom in two years. It is preferable not to plant gladiolus bulbs in the same spot for several years in a row. An annual rotation will yield better results. In mild climates, corms can be planted in September-October and left in the ground over winter without damage.
Planting period
Intended location
Care
Planting & care advice
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Hardiness is the lowest winter temperature a plant can endure without suffering serious damage or even dying. However, hardiness is affected by location (a sheltered area, such as a patio), protection (winter cover) and soil type (hardiness is improved by well-drained soil).
In temperate climates, pruning of spring-flowering shrubs (forsythia, spireas, etc.) should be done just after flowering.
Pruning of summer-flowering shrubs (Indian Lilac, Perovskia, etc.) can be done in winter or spring.
In cold regions as well as with frost-sensitive plants, avoid pruning too early when severe frosts may still occur.
The harvesting period indicated on our website applies to countries and regions in USDA zone 8 (France, England, Ireland, the Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...) fruit and vegetable harvests are likely to be delayed by 3-4 weeks.
In warmer areas (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), harvesting will probably take place earlier, depending on weather conditions.
The sowing periods indicated on our website apply to countries and regions within USDA Zone 8 (France, UK, Ireland, Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...), delay any outdoor sowing by 3-4 weeks, or sow under glass.
In warmer climes (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), bring outdoor sowing forward by a few weeks.
The planting period indicated on our website applies to regions in USDA Zone 9a (East Coast and Midlands: Dublin, Wexford, Waterford, Kilkenny, Portlaoise). It will vary depending on where you live:
- On the west coast and in the north-west (Galway, Limerick, Sligo, Donegal, Westport), delay planting by 1 to 2 weeks in spring and bring it forward by 1 to 2 weeks in autumn compared to the dates given, preferably choosing periods without strong winds.
- In the inland hills and plateaus (Wicklow Mountains, Macgillycuddy’s Reeks, Connemara, Killarney), it is best to plant in spring (April–May) or autumn (September–October), avoiding periods of waterlogged soil in winter and strong winds, which pose the main risk to newly planted trees in these areas.
The flowering period indicated on our website applies to regions in USDA Zone 9a, such as the East Coast and Midlands, including Dublin, Wexford, Waterford, Kilkenny and Portlaoise.
This will vary depending on where you live:
- On the west coast and in the northwest (Galway, Limerick, Sligo, Donegal and Westport), it will be delayed by one to two weeks compared to the given dates, due to stronger Atlantic winds and less spring sunshine.
- In the inland hills and plateaus (the Wicklow Mountains, the Macgillycuddy's Reeks, Connemara and Killarney), flowering will be delayed by two to three weeks. Flowering mainly occurs between May and July, with the limiting factors being less frost and more of the excessive humidity, strong winds and lack of sunshine that are characteristic of these areas.
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