Archives des Vegetables and fruits - Irish blog Promesse de fleurs

Frankly, aren't you fed up with being buried under apple harvests so abundant that even your neighbours no longer want to open their door? If the prospect of baking yet another homemade tart with your own plums sends you into a cold sweat, it's high time to take back control of your garden by learning delicate art of horticultural sabotage. This guide promises to turn any vigorous pear tree into a pathetic pile of dead wood in just three radical steps.

Of course, for twisted minds who would actually like to fill their baskets, simply take this manual literally and do exactly the opposite of our advice.

Choose the worst possible moment!

The secret to a spectacular failure lies above all in your timing: if you prune at the right moment, you risk strengthening the tree, which would be a total failure for our mission. For successful sabotage, aim for peak sap flow, ideally when the tree is in flower; not only is it pleasing to see petals fall like snow beneath your pruning shear, but it also ensures the tree will exhaust its precious reserves for nothing.

If you miss the spring window, turn to the "Thermal Shock" technique: wait for a polar freeze overnight, around -10°C, before bringing out your tools. By opening tree tissues in severe cold, you prevent any healing and let the frost burst the wood cells, thus creating splendid permanent necroses.

Finally, to perfect the job, don't forget golden rule of moisture: the more it rains, the merrier. Fungal spores and bacteria are poor swimmers, so make life easy for them by offering gaping wounds under driving rain. It's a free pass to all cryptogamous diseases in neighbourhood, which will happily settle into your orchard.

This is clearly not right moment to prune a fruit tree (image generated by AI)

Never prune trees and shrubs while it's freezing. — This is clearly not right moment to prune a fruit tree (image generated by AI)

The real advice

If, by strange fit of kindness, you want your trees to survive, know that pome fruit trees (apple, pear trees) are generally pruned only during full dormancy (winter, but when frost-free), and stone fruit trees (cherries, plums) just after harvest to avoid excessive gum loss.

Wield your tools with artistic negligence

Once you've chosen worst possible moment, it's time to use the most unsuitable equipment. For optimal result, forget shiny pruning shears and embrace liberating rust philosophy. Bring out grandad's old pruning shear, the one that hasn't seen a sharpening stone since 1998 World Cup: if blade is so blunt it no longer cuts but happily crushes wood fibres, you're on right track. A crushed branch is a branch that never heals, offering unlimited playground for bacteria.

In spirit of generosity, also practise disease sharing. Why confine a nice canker or grey rot to single apple tree when you can spread it across whole orchard? By stubbornly refusing to disinfect your blades between trees, you become vector of a magnificent, supportive parasite community. It's the all-you-can-eat buffet: what tree A has, tree B will receive free of charge via your filthy blade.

Finally, let your creativity run wild with "Free Style" cutting angle. Ignoring bevel rule is excellent way to create little stagnant pools on each cut surface. By cutting square or, better, towards bud, you turn every wound into tiny watering hole for fungi and wood-boring insects. After all, why let water run off naturally when you can invite it to settle and rot wood from inside?

This pruning shear deserves a good sharpening and a thorough clean. Or retirement… (Image generated by AI)

Never use a dirty, rusty pruning shear — This pruning shear deserves a good sharpening and a thorough clean. Or retirement… (Image generated by AI)

The real advice

Those who care about their fruit will tell you that cutting tool must be razor-sharp for a clean cut and disinfected with 70% alcohol between each subject. They also recommend always cutting on a slant (about 45°), away from bud, so rainwater runs well clear of sensitive area.

Practice "Chainsaw Massacre" pruning

Here is where your misunderstood artist soul comes into play. To turn a fruit tree into sterile abstract sculpture, forget delicacy.

Start with radical method of wild topping. Why let central leader rise gracefully towards sky when you can lop it off at two metres? By cutting top, you force tree into absolute panic: it will respond by producing forest of vertical shoots (the water shoots) that will drain all energy and never deliver a single apple. Chaos guaranteed, and that's exactly what we're after.

Continue with strategy of total darkness. A well-maintained tree often looks like light well, but we aim for impenetrable jungle vibe. Carefully leave all dead wood and crossing branches in centre of trunk. By preventing air and sun from circulating, you create warm, humid microclimate at tree core, ideal for raising colonies of aphids and mosses.

Finally, to finish your masterpiece, practise systematic removal of spurs. These short, stubby buds are future fruit, so sworn enemies. Cut them mercilessly thinking they are useless protrusions. By contrast, keep long, smooth, vertical shoots that reach for clouds: they look magnificent, consume all sap and have wonderful trait of never, ever producing fruit.

This is what a very badly pruned fruit tree could look like. (Image generated by AI)

Gentle, sensible pruning is essential to keep fruit trees healthy. — This is what a very badly pruned fruit tree could look like. (Image generated by AI)

The real advice

For those who prefer harvests to disasters: good pruning involves thinning centre to let light through and encouraging horizontal branches (those that bear fruit). Aim to preserve fruit buds (the spurs) while limiting vigour of vertical water shoots.

Comparison table: real vs fake

Pruning action	"Sabotage" objective (wrong move)	Harvest objective (truth)
Timing	During freeze (-10°C) or in torrential rain.	In dry conditions, frost-free, during dormancy.
Tool condition	Rusty, blunt and covered in last year's dried sap.	Blade sharpened (clean cut) and disinfected with alcohol.
Structure	Keep dense centre to create fungus nest.	Open tree centre to let light through (daylight shaft).
Cutting angle	Straight or sloping towards bud to retain moisture.	On a slant (45°), away from bud to shed water.
Fate of vigorous shoots	Leave them to grow vertically to the sky.	Remove or bend to favour fruiting.

Frankly, aren’t you fed up with being buried under apple harvests so abundant that even your neighbours no longer want to open their door? If the prospect of baking yet another homemade tart with your own plums sends you into a cold sweat, it’s high time to take back control of your garden by learning […]

When we go shopping or peel an apple, we don't really think about the origins of the various fruits that grace our tables, as they are such a part of our daily lives. Yet, if they could speak, they would tell us the incredible journey that brought them to us, from the earliest times!
These juicy and fragrant fruits that we enjoy throughout the year mostly appeared long ago in distant lands, although some arrived on our old continent more recently.
As I shared the epic of vegetables in a previous episode, I invite you this summer to continue this tasty journey into the colourful world of our most familiar fruits.

Origin of fruits: the continents that they originate from

There are nearly 150 different fruits in the world... and thousands of varieties. While we associate some with a national culture, the vast majority come from countries, or even distant continents. Some, like cherries or pears, have two distinct origins. Here are the distribution areas and origins* of some of the most consumed fruits today, by continents and major regions of the world:

America: pineapple (Brazil), avocado (Mexico), tomato - botanically a fruit! - (Mexico and Central America), papaya (Central America), guava (Central America and Brazil).
Asia: pear, peach, apricot, kiwi, and orange (China), banana (Southeast Asia), lemon and mango (India), pomegranate (Central Asia, Afghanistan).
Middle East: fig (Turkey), date (Mesopotamia), pomegranate (Iran), cherry (Anatolia).
Europe: apple (Caucasus), pear (Europe and Asia Minor), grape (Middle East and Europe), strawberry (Europe and North America), grape (Caucasus and Southern Europe).
Africa: watermelon, melon.

* This distribution lists fruits native to countries that were later introduced to other regions of the world, before becoming naturalised in some.

Fruits through time and cultures

Wild berries, ancestors of our blackberries and raspberries, were an important part of the diet of hunter-gatherers and were consumed by prehistoric humans long before agriculture developed.

But one of the oldest cultivated fruits in humanity is considered to be the fig. It is believed to be the first fruit to have been domesticated, even before cereals in some regions of the present-day Middle East. Excavations in the Jordan Valley, in the Jericho region of the West Bank, have uncovered carbonised figs dating back to around 9000 BC. Dates were also cultivated from antiquity.

In the Middle Ages and the Renaissance, fruit cultivation developed in Europe and Asia. In European monasteries, the creation of the kitchen garden with the medieval enclosed garden played a crucial role in the preservation and development of fruit cultivation, particularly of apple, quince, and cherry trees. The medieval orchard is associated with the lost paradise, and many illuminations depict it. Fruits like apple, pear, and grape made their way to the tables. The Crusades and later the great maritime expeditions would enrich the diversity of available fruits. This was a time when fruits were often consumed in dried form, allowing for longer preservation (figs, apples, apricots, plums, and cherries).

During the Renaissance, trade introduced new varieties of grapes, enriching European viticulture. The Crusades also facilitated the introduction of citrus trees to Europe, significantly transforming eating habits. Horticulturists and later fruit growers made decisive advances in fruit-growing techniques (grafting, cultivation on trellises, and the creation of fruit shapes, hardening under glass), leading to the fruit heritage as we know it today.

*Still life with fruits by William Joseph Hammer, 1856*
*Photo Wikimedia Commons*

where do fruit trees come from — *Still life with fruits by William Joseph Hammer, 1856*
*Photo Wikimedia Commons*

Discovering three iconic fruits: pear, melon, and strawberry

Among the wide array of fruits available to us today, I have chosen to talk about three fruits that have now become part of our consumption habits.

Pear: millennia of know-how and innovations

A common fruit today, the pear is counted among around sixty species, and nearly 2000 varieties worldwide!: Comice, Conference, Williams, Passe Crassane, or Guyot... to name just a few of the most common in our markets.
It is actually one of the oldest fruits cultivated in the Northern Hemisphere, and its history dates back millennia.

Originating in Asia, the pear later made its way to Europe. In China, where writings dating back to the 5th century BC mention it, it has been cultivated for over 5000 years. Remains and seeds of pears (Pyrus communis) have been found in the lake dwellings of present-day Switzerland and in prehistoric Neolithic sites. While it appears in Egyptian and Greek civilizations, it was the Romans who first developed and improved this fruit by practising early grafting. By 50 AD, there were already 35 different species.

The pear established its presence in Europe from the Middle Ages, but at that time it was little appreciated, often cooked, and had various unflattering names (anguish pear or rosy stone). Quintinie (1626-1688) truly gave it its letters of nobility: King Louis XIV was fond of it (well... mainly to decorate his gala tables), and it was from the 17th century that cross-breeding began, with quince trees. Improvements in fruit cultivation techniques then allowed for the production of higher quality pears, much more melting, contributing to their growing popularity among both nobles and commoners. Five hundred species were already recorded during Quintinie's time, including the stars of the era, Bon Chrétien or Cuisse-Madame.

The Williams pear was born in 1796, the Conference pear was named in 1885, and the Angelys pear, one of the latest, was born in 1998. It is now marketed under the name Angys®, a product of Angevin research from INRAE (hurray!), resulting from a cross between Doyenné du Comice and Doyenné d'Hiver.

Asian pears (Pyrus pyrifolia) and their descendants are crunchy-fleshed fruits, like the Nashi, while our common European pear trees (Pyrus communis), descended from wild pear trees in the mountainous regions of the Caspian Sea, produce tender and juicy fruits. Even today, we distinguish between "knife pears" for raw tasting, melting pears, and "cooking pears," much like with apples. The main edible species come from Pyrus pyrifolia. In Asia, there are nearly 3000 varieties from Pyrus pyrifolia, Pyrus ussuriensis, and Pyrus bretshneideri, some of which are hardy to below -30°C.

The sixth favourite fruit of the French, available all year round in our markets, and in world-renowned recipes like pear Belle Hélène, this fruit continues to charm us. Notably, the largest producer of pears in the world is once again... China, with a production of 16.5 million tonnes of pears. Strangely, 50% of the pears consumed in France are imported, knowing that our main producing regions are the Loire and Val-de-Loire regions.

Apricot: from Tibet to Provence

Its botanical name, Prunus armeniaca, mistakenly attributed by Carl von Linné, would suggest an Armenian origin for the apricot tree. This is not the case, as this highly appreciated summer fruit, associated with the Mediterranean basin, actually originated on the foothills of the Himalayas, between Turkestan, Tibet, and Manchuria, just like our good old peach. This wild ancestor of the modern apricot tree was introduced much further east, indeed passing through Armenia, via the Silk Road. The apricot arrived in the West in already improved forms, as the Chinese had been cultivating it for millennia. It conquered Greece and the Roman Empire at the very beginning of the Christian era. The Romans named it praecoquum, meaning the early fruit, and later Punum armeniacum, in reference to its introduction in Armenia. The name apricot would not appear in the French language until the 16th century, borrowed from the Spanish albaricoque, which itself derives from the Arabic al-barqūq.

It was the Moors who, in the 8th century, brought the apricot to Spain. It was not until the 16th century that this fruit gradually began to be appreciated. The good King René, who inherited the kingdoms of Naples and Sicily, is said to have introduced the apricot tree to Anjou a century earlier, around 1435. During the Middle Ages, it had a poor reputation, thought to cause fever. It took time before the apricot was consumed raw, as we do today by biting into the sun-warmed fruit right from the tree. Quintinie himself reserved it exclusively for cooked preparations like jams or compotes. It wasn't until the 18th century that its cultivation expanded in the southern regions of France, and more and more varieties began to emerge.

The modern apricot has thus been cultivated in our regions for less than 500 years. Today, the main apricot-growing areas are still the Mediterranean basin, with France being the 17th largest producer by volume. Turkey, the world's leading producer, primarily produces dried apricots from varieties particularly suited for drying.

Still life with cut apricots, Lubin Baugin
(oil on wood panel, circa 1630; Rennes Museum) - Photo Wikimedia Commons

apricot origin and history — Still life with cut apricots, Lubin Baugin
(oil on wood panel, circa 1630; Rennes Museum) - Photo Wikimedia Commons

Melon: an unloved fruit turned summer star

The orange-fleshed melon, bursting with sugar and sunshine that we enjoy in France in the heart of summer (Cucumis melo), originating from Africa and Asia, also has a fascinating history. Cultivated since antiquity in Egypt and Mesopotamia, it was then appreciated for its seeds as much as for its flesh. It appears, along with watermelon, in tomb frescoes. The Romans, likely the ones who introduced it to Europe, knew it but often preferred watermelon (Cucumis citrullus), finding it rather bland. At that time, the melon was actually considered more of a vegetable and was often consumed cooked and salted or in salads.

In the year 800, Charlemagne mentions it among the recommended plants in the Capitulaire de Villis, using the name given to it by the Greeks, "pepon" ('cooked by the sun).

This delicate fruit began to acclimatise in Europe thanks to the development of greenhouses, starting in the 17th century, which allowed it to be hastened and consumed year-round, as demanded by the nobility. It became larger and tastier. In France, the melon, like other fruits or vegetables, still had a poor reputation, often perceived by doctors as a dangerous food, causing indigestion due to its harmful juices, the "succum pessimum". Several popes even died from excessive consumption, as was said of Clement VIII. This reputation gradually faded in the 18th century, where an author like Marc-Antoine Girard de Saint-Amand made a flattering description in a poem full of finesse: The Melon. Voltaire even crowned it "the masterpiece of summer." Since 1780, the cantaloupe melon, round and with orange flesh, from the summer residence of the popes of Cantaluppi, became known in French gardens. The Marquise de Sévigné and later Alexandre Dumas became ambassadors of the Cavaillon melon, the former for her adoration of this Provençal fruit, the latter for having it delivered to him until his death as a life annuity in exchange for books!

Greenhouse and cloche cultivation methods improved, and the large melon cloche appeared in the 18th century, still used today by those fortunate enough to possess one. It became a fruit that signified a high social status.

Although few writings confirm it factually, it is often said that melons, due to their increasing market value and popularity, became targets of theft when grown in enclosed and monitored gardens, particularly in Europe during the 17th and 18th centuries.

Today, the melon is enjoyed worldwide and is cultivated in open fields or greenhouses in many regions. France is one of the leading producers in Europe, with Provence and Charente renowned for the quality of their melons. Charentais melons, recognisable by their orange flesh and wrinkled skin, are prized for their sweet and fragrant flavour. The Cavaillon melon remains a summer staple. In France, we are the thirteenth largest producer of melons globally, but we must import them (mainly from Spain and Morocco) for our summer consumption.

As for yellow melons or sweet melons, they are associated with Spain, where they are widely consumed. These melons, also known as Santa Claus melons or 'Piel de Sapo' melons (toad skin), have a green speckled skin and a very refreshing white or green flesh. They are primarily cultivated in the Spanish regions of Murcia, Andalusia, and Valencia.

The new hybrids and exotic fruits

Most of our fruits date back to very ancient times, but some fruits only appeared late in our kitchens and on our tables. These are mainly exotic fruits that our palates began to discover and appreciate at the dawn of the 20th century, such as the kiwi, originally from China but cultivated in New Zealand since the early 20th century, and only becoming popular in Europe from the 1960s, or the lychee, which appeared in Europe as early as the 18th century thanks to colonial imports. The prickly pear, now available in some markets, had remained relatively unknown in the West since Christopher Columbus.

Since the 1970s and 80s, other fruits have appeared on the market, born from the hybridization of two species, horticultural selections, genetic manipulations, or natural mutations. Some are still little known, such as the boysenberry or blackberry-raspberry, a cross between a raspberry and a wild bramble, and the caseille or cassisberry, another cross of red fruits between a blackcurrant and a gooseberry. The aprium, born from the (American) love affair between a plum and an apricot tree, the pluot, another hybrid between plum and apricot, are other laboratory discoveries. Citrus fruits are not left out, with notably the tangelo (or Minneola), a hybrid of a mandarin and a grapefruit, less acidic and sweeter than a pomelo. The Americans, who have also developed pink blueberries (like 'Pink Lemonade'), are often behind these more or less fanciful genetic discoveries...

All these new fruits are proof that fruit innovation has not yet said its last word in adapting, among other things, to the new global climate challenges.

*Lychees and kiwis became common in our stores from the 1980s, but we are now seeing new fruits like the pluot or tangelo emerging over the past decade*

what are the new fruits on the market — *Lychees and kiwis became common in our stores from the 1980s, but we are now seeing new fruits like the pluot or tangelo emerging over the past decade*

Heirloom and forgotten fruits

We are also currently witnessing the rediscovery of forgotten fruits like quince, medlar, jujube, or persimmon, often brought back to the forefront by chefs or organic orchards. Would you like to learn more about these ancient fruits? Browse our articles and recipes:

Origin of vegetables: the continents that gave birth to them

Three major regions of the world are the source of most of the vegetables that make up our diet today: the Near East, Asia, and the Americas. It is important to note that when we refer to this origin, we are talking about the geographical areas where these vegetables were cultivated, not where the vegetable was recorded as a wild plant. This sometimes explains the discrepancies we notice regarding the origin of certain vegetables (a good example being the unresolved debate about the aubergine, which is said to be either Chinese or Indian).

Here are the origins of some of the most commonly used vegetables today, by continent and major regions of the world:

America: tomato (Mexico and Central America), bean, squash and courgette (Mexico), potato (Peru and Bolivia), pepper (Central America), sweet potato (Peru), corn (Mexico)
Asia: aubergine and cucumber (India), spinach (Persia), garlic, shallot and onion, carrot, cucumber, turnip, crosne (Japan)
Near East: pea* (Fertile Crescent), radish, lentil, chickpea, rocket, and cabbage, which was likely domesticated there.
Middle East: carrot (Afghanistan), onion (Iran and Afghanistan)

*(often accepted as one of the oldest vegetables in the world, its cultivation dating back 7,000 to 10,000 years)

Europe and Africa are also the cradle of several vegetables in our daily lives. Cabbage, fennel, Swiss chard, parsnip, broad bean, and many salads like lamb's lettuce (from Sicily and Sardinia), escarole or chicory for Europe, beetroot and artichoke coming from North Africa.

While all these vegetables were brought back by the great expeditions of the 15th and 16th centuries or by the Arab conquest (the Silk Road and the Incense Route concerned not food, but spices, fabrics, and precious woods), they underwent a slow evolution, being domesticated and then hardened in regions with climates very different from their areas of origin.

Vegetables through time: a brief timeline of an announced success

The consumption of vegetables is documented in numerous ancient writings and manuscripts across different cultures and eras, but also through paintings and still lifes from the Renaissance onwards. Archaeologists have thus identified the pantry of our distant ancestors, historians have investigated their introduction, and naturalists and botanists have studied their acclimatization in our countries.

As we learn it in school, nomadic man did not cultivate; he was a hunter-gatherer. When he settled down, around 10,000 BC, he began to domesticate certain animals… and to plant! The first centres of settlement in the Near East, what is called the Fertile Crescent (corresponding to Iran, Iraq, and Turkey) report the cultivation of cereals such as barley (Hordeum vulgare), then wheat, oats, and rye. Considered the first cultivated food, barley was indeed on the menu of our Mediterranean ancestors.
Ancient Egypt, which has left us numerous testimonies of its dietary practices in its temples, tombs, and papyri, cultivated cabbage and cucumber, as well as chickpeas and, more surprisingly, radishes, as well as the nut sedge (papyrus) which was consumed. It was a predominantly vegetarian people.

Closer to us, in ancient Rome, we were able to identify the vegetables that the inhabitants of Pompeii ate: peas, broad beans, and lentils encountered in Egypt, thus many legumes, but vegetables such as cabbage, leek, onions, and asparagus also already appeared. All these vegetables are mentioned by Columella, a Roman agronomist, and by Pliny the Elder in his Natural History.

Legumes and cereals were among the first cultivated foods

history of vegetables — Legumes and cereals were among the first cultivated foods

Later still, in the Middle Ages, many manuscripts recount the vegetables that graced the tables: mostly leafy vegetables, such as spinach, orache, and borage, root vegetables (chervis, parsnip, carrots, turnips…) and so-called perpetual or perennial vegetables. There is still much evidence of legumes such as chickpeas and lentils. The beetroot makes its appearance, and Charlemagne attempts to impose it in the vegetable garden. He includes it in his Capitulare de Villis and recommends it as a vegetable crop for the Empire. Medieval cuisine often consisted of all these vegetables, consumed in the form of soups, broths, pies, and stews, with meats, game, and fish reserved for the noble classes.

The Age of Discoveries in the 15th and 16th centuries further enriched this mapping of vegetables. The discovery of the Americas by Christopher Columbus in 1492 led to the introduction of many new vegetables to Europe, such as tomatoes, potatoes, corn, peppers, and squash, to name just a few. These vegetables from the New World literally fascinated our old continent. They graced the tables of monarchs and European courts, ensuring the splendour of banquets during the Renaissance, and later integrated into European cuisines in the modern era.

Subsequently, we witnessed the acclimatization of these vegetables growing in warm climates, adapting them to our regions, our humidity, and our four seasons. The greenhouses that developed from the 18th century onwards allowed for an unprecedented boom in market gardening. Farmers gradually began to produce many types of vegetables throughout the year, increasing both diversity and productivity.

Aubergine, carrot, and artichoke: three domesticated vegetables under the microscope

Alexandra has already explored the fascinating history of certain vegetables in My Vegetable Garden Comes from Afar, such as potatoes, tomatoes, or squashes. I will complete this list by discussing here the aubergine, carrot, and artichoke, three vegetables rich in flavour and colour... well... not all at the beginning!

Aubergine

The Aubergine (Solanum melongena L), long referred to as the madman's apple or the apple of Sodom in the 14th century, had a rather poor reputation before becoming this much-loved summer vegetable in Mediterranean, Lebanese, and Asian cuisine. It was said to be dangerous, as it was associated, as was the tomato, with belladonna, which belongs to the same botanical family, the nightshades. It was attributed with fevers, epileptic fits, and those who ate it were even said to lose their sanity.

Aubergines were thus, like some other vegetables, initially considered ornamental plants in Europe, but soon gained popularity as food in southern Europe. They are documented in cultivation around 500 BC in India and Burma. The white aubergines are believed to be the oldest cultivated forms. In India, Burma, and China, mentions of light or white varieties can be found in ancient texts, as early as the 5th century.
They are still called "eggplants" in English because they resembled… chicken eggs!
It was the Arabs who discovered it in the Middle Ages and brought it from Asia, likely from India in the 15th century. They named it "al-bâdinjân", introduced it into the Mediterranean basin, and quickly adopted it through their trade with the Arab world. The aubergine passed through North Africa, then Spain, and into other Maghreb countries. However, it was the Italians who truly popularised it in the 19th century. It would then be more consumed in Spain and Italy, as well as in Greece. The aubergine would not appear in markets in northern France until the mid-19th century.

The aubergine remains widely consumed in the Middle East, where it is the star of iconic dishes like baba ghanoush in Lebanon, or Imam bayildi in Turkey, for example. In Turkey, where aubergine jam is a specialty, it is also consumed sweet, and in Andalusia, cooked with honey as a dish, the aubergine regains its status as a fruit, as botanically it is indeed one.
The aubergine is now among the top 7 most cultivated vegetables in the world, with over 60 million tonnes produced annually. The global production of aubergine is primarily Chinese and Indian, with China accounting for about 63% of global production and India about 24%. It remains predominantly consumed in Asia. Today, there are no fewer than 341 varieties of aubergines listed in the official catalogue!

Carrot

Iran is credited with a developed culture of the carrot (Daucus carota), but it is in Afghanistan that it is said to have appeared in the 10th century, quite recently in fact. It was initially produced in Europe, mainly in Spain, and after crossing the Pyrenees, it arrived in France, then Italy in the 14th century.

Yellow, white, and red carrots, ancestors of the orange carrot, delighted the royal tables of Europe in this colour until the Renaissance. Like other vegetables or fruits that gradually changed colour, the carrot originally had whitish hues. It was the Dutch who, in the 17th century, through numerous hybridizations, transformed this pale carrot into an increasingly orange one.

We now find yellow and purple carrots on the stalls, a curious turnaround! Fashion and trends...

Artichoke

The artichoke (Cynara scolymus), a symbol of Brittany for us, originates... from the Mediterranean basin, specifically North Africa. It is nothing other than a domesticated wild thistle! It was probably already consumed in Antiquity by the Egyptians and the Berbers, in its wild form, the cardoon (Cynara cardunculus).

It is from this species that the cultivated artichoke is obtained through selection. It reached Italy in the 1st century under the Roman Empire, where it was mainly used, like in Greece, for its medicinal properties. It was during the Renaissance, around 1644, that it was truly popularised and cultivated in aristocratic gardens, particularly in Naples and Sicily. It was then credited with digestive and even aphrodisiac properties. It appeared in France thanks to Catherine de Medici, who introduced it to royal gardens in the 16th century. Louis XIV adored this vegetable… La Quintinie cultivated five different varieties.

It was not until the early 19th century that the artichoke became popular, thanks to the creation of the famous large Camus de Bretagne. It thus became a significant market gardening crop in Brittany, Provence, and the Loire Valley. There are several varieties, such as the Gros vert de Laon, the purple artichoke of Provence, or the poivrade—which appeared later—a small tender variety often consumed raw or in oil. The artichoke remains an emblematic vegetable of Mediterranean cuisine, found stuffed, in barigoule, or Roman-style.

Italy, Spain, and Egypt are now among the three main producers of artichokes in the world, far ahead of France.

The 'new vegetables'

While we often think that all our vegetables are ancient, some have only recently appeared in our gardens and on our stalls, particularly with the globalization of food, the rise of organic produce, and new consumption habits (gluten-free, vegetarianism).

Among the vegetables that have recently arrived in our gardens and markets are exotic vegetables, but not only...

Chayote (or christophine), a cucurbit from Central America, widely used in Caribbean and Reunion cuisines, now well acclimatisated and cultivated in France, in the mild Atlantic zone or in the south.
Kale – making a comeback since the 2010s, a star of health diets. It is now widely cultivated in urban, organic, and alternative gardens.
Romanesco cabbage arrived in our markets in the 1990s.
Sweet potato: it was rare just 30 years ago and is now ubiquitous in markets, even cultivated in the southwest of France. Some varieties are adapted to the French climate.
The yacon (earth pear): Originating from South America, it is still marginal but is entering organic circuits and AMAPs (Associations for the Maintenance of Peasant Agriculture). Its taste is sweet, similar to that of the Jerusalem artichoke.

Also added to this list is black radish, an ancient vegetable rehabilitated by modern cuisine and wellness trends. Long relegated to herbalism, it is now reappearing in winter salads and detox plates. These vegetables reflect the plant renaissance of the 21st century, between exoticism and culinary innovations.

We are also witnessing the rediscovery of forgotten vegetables such as chervis, orache, helianthi, crosne, or even cardoon, and herbs like wild garlic, often brought back to the forefront by chefs or organic gardens.

21st-century agriculture has also seen the emergence of hybrid or crossbred vegetables, such as broccolini (a cross between broccoli and kai-lan), or kalette (kale + Brussels sprout), reflecting our growing taste for plant innovation, but also the need to adapt to new climatic conditions.

These vegetables that might never have existed!

Finally, there are also vegetables that never came to be... and those that could have remained unknown in Europe.
We will thus try to consume the tuber of the Dahlia, brought to France in 1802 from Mexico via Spain. This plant was cultivated, used decoratively in flowering tiaras, but also consumed by the Aztecs for centuries. Botanist André Thouin thought he could use it here, somewhat like the potato, as the tuber had a floury consistency. But its peppery taste did not appeal to the testers of the time, and thus it was relegated in 1804 (to our great delight) as the only ornamental plant!

Some of the vegetables we cherish today almost didn't make it into our kitchens. The potato and the tomato are good examples; the former long deemed unfit for consumption, indigestible, only good for feeding animals, and supposedly transmitting the plague, while the latter retained its image as a toxic plant for a long time. It was only adopted by the French from 1731, and by the Germans even later, around 1870. These plants, labelled as poisonous, were also the fate of some fruits, but we will return to this in a future article.

What is Yellow Dragon disease (HLB)?

Yellow Dragon disease (HLB), or Huanglongbing, was first identified in the early 20th century. It was described in China in 1919, where it was known as the "yellowing disease" of citrus. At that time, farmers observed symptoms of irregular leaf yellowing and tree decline, but the precise causes of the disease were not yet known. It was not until the 1940s-1950s that further research allowed for a better understanding of its bacterial origin and its transmission by vector insects. Since its emergence, the disease has spread rapidly, affecting Asia, Africa, Latin America, the United States, and even some regions of Europe. Today, it is considered one of the greatest threats to global citrus production. Associated losses are estimated to be in the billions of dollars each year.

Yellowing of citrus, Huanglongbing, Yellow Dragon disease — Orange trees affected by Yellow Dragon disease

What is the pathogen of the dragon?

The Yellow Dragon disease is caused by a bacterium belonging to the genus Candidatus Liberibacter. Three main variants of this bacterium are known: asiaticus, africanus, and americanus. All attack the vascular system of citrus, blocking the circulation of nutrients and leading to tree decline.

Symptoms of Yellow Dragon disease

The first signs of the disease appear on the leaves, which exhibit irregular yellowing often confused with nutrient deficiencies. Unlike other diseases, the yellowing of leaves caused by HLB is asymmetrical, affecting part of the lamina while the other remains green. The fruits of infected trees become small, misshapen, and their taste is altered, often bitter or bland. The skin of the fruits may also show unusual colour spots.

As the disease progresses, the entire tree shows signs of decline. Leaves and fruits drop prematurely, growth slows, and if no intervention is made, the tree eventually dies. Once infected, a tree cannot be cured, making early detection and prevention essential.

In summary:

Irregular yellowing of leaves
Small, misshapen, and often bitter fruits.
Irregular skin coloration.
Premature dropping of leaves and fruits.
Slowed growth.
Possible death of the tree.

Huanglongbing, citrus disease, Yellow Dragon — Yellow Dragon disease is recognised by the irregular yellowing of leaves

How does the disease spread?

The bacterium is transmitted by vector insects, primarily the Asian citrus psyllid (Diaphorina citri) and the African citrus psyllid (Trioza erytreae). These small insects feed on the sap and spread the bacterium from an infected tree to a healthy one. The dissemination of the disease is exacerbated by the transport of infected plants or contaminated grafts, usually from one region to another. The globalisation of agricultural trade has significantly contributed to the spread of the disease, making control even more complex. Poor agricultural practices and a lack of awareness in certain regions further worsen the situation.

Psyllids, Yellow Dragon disease, Huanglongbing — Psyllids transmit Yellow Dragon disease

What cures the dragon disease?

Currently, there is no definitive cure for Yellow Dragon disease (HLB). HLB is an incurable disease. Once a tree is infected by the bacterium Candidatus Liberibacter, it cannot be cured. This is why prevention is key to protecting orchards.

Economic and environmental consequences

The impacts of HLB are catastrophic for producers. Yields drop dramatically, as fruits from infected trees cannot be marketed. Costs increase in attempts to control psyllid populations or replace lost trees. Yellow Dragon disease (HLB) has profound repercussions on the global economy, particularly in regions where citrus cultivation is an agricultural and commercial pillar, threatening the citrus sector.

Countries heavily dependent on citrus, such as Brazil, the United States, Mexico, and India, incur colossal losses each year. The decline in yields, combined with rising management costs (pesticides, replacement of infected trees, orchard monitoring), puts farms under pressure.
For many small farmers, these losses can be insurmountable, leading to bankruptcies and migrations to less affected crops. Beyond orchards, the repercussions are felt in the agri-food industry: the entire citrus supply chain is impacted, from processing (juices, jams, essential oils) to export. Fruit shortages drive up prices in the market, making products less accessible to consumers.

Increased use of pesticides

The fight against HLB also has concerning ecological impacts, particularly in areas where intensive practices dominate. To control psyllid vector populations, producers often turn to intensive chemical treatments. While these pesticides may temporarily reduce infestations, they pose major environmental problems.

Loss of biodiversity in orchards and indirect deforestation

Intensive monocultures of citrus, particularly vulnerable to HLB, are already ecologically fragile. The massive removal of infected trees, combined with intensive chemical management, exacerbates the loss of biodiversity in orchards, making them even more vulnerable to other diseases and pests. To compensate for losses caused by HLB, some producers clear new land to plant citrus, contributing to the destruction of natural habitats.

Huanglongbing (HLB), Yellow Dragon disease, citrus — Sick orange tree

Control strategies and prevention

In the face of this threat, combating HLB relies on several axes. Prevention plays a key role. Strict phytosanitary controls aim to limit the spread of the disease through international trade of plants. Training farmers to detect early symptoms is also essential for rapid intervention.

Managing vector insects is another lever. Producers resort to insecticides to reduce psyllid populations, although this approach requires precautions to minimise its ecological impact. Alternative methods such as using traps or introducing natural predators, such as ladybirds, offer more sustainable options.

When trees are infected, their rapid removal is imperative to prevent contamination of neighbouring trees. Researchers are also actively working on selecting citrus varieties resistant to the bacterium, although this process is still ongoing.

What are the prospects?

Combating HLB, or Yellow Dragon disease, requires a comprehensive and multidimensional approach to protect global citrus production. The prospects rely on promising scientific advances, such as the creation of resistant citrus varieties through genomic editing (CRISPR), the use of bacteriophages, natural viruses, to target the bacterium Candidatus Liberibacter, and the search for vaccines to immunise trees. Initial tests of vaccines or resistant varieties show encouraging results.

To control psyllid vectors, sustainable alternatives to pesticide use are preferred, as seen, such as biological control using natural predators (ladybirds, parasitoid wasps), disrupting insect reproductive cycles with pheromones, and integrating companion crops to repel or attract these pests.

Modern technologies, including drones and artificial intelligence, also enable effective monitoring of orchards and early detection of infected trees, facilitating rapid interventions. Finally, regenerative agriculture, which enriches soils and strengthens the natural resilience of trees through practices such as adding compost or using cover crops, is a key solution to reduce the vulnerability of citrus to diseases. These combined efforts aim to limit the economic and environmental impacts of this disease while ensuring the sustainability of citrus production and the preservation of ecosystems.

The Yellow Dragon disease, scientifically known as Huanglongbing (HLB), is one of the most serious current threats to citrus production worldwide. Caused by a deadly bacterium, this disease affects oranges, lemons, mandarins, and grapefruits, leading to significant economic losses and jeopardising the future of citrus orchards. Let’s explore the origins, symptoms, modes of transmission, consequences, […]

Basil, this beloved herb of chefs and gardeners alike, is actually a bit temperamental… and many gardeners, whether novice or experienced, make classic mistakes that lead to disastrous results. Too much water, not enough light, poor soil, neglecting pruning… the list goes on! So why stand out? Isn’t it better to follow the crowd and fail at growing basil? We’re going to show you how to spectacularly fail at growing your basil, so you can learn with humour what not to do!

Lesson 1: forget about watering

Basil is a plant that loves its substrate to remain slightly moist. But if your goal is to see it wither quickly, nothing could be simpler: completely forget to water it! After all, it’s a plant from a warm climate, right? At first, it will lose a few leaves, which will yellow before falling off… then the whole plant will dry out quickly, like a houseplant forgotten during the holidays. You can then say goodbye to your dreams of homemade pesto.

But if, in a moment of clarity, you want to save your basil, make sure to water it regularly (neither too much nor too little) with lukewarm rainwater, especially during heatwaves. Also, provide it with an organic mulch on the surface to limit the drying out of the soil.

Lesson 2: place it in a dark corner

Basil is a plant that loves light. In fact, it needs plenty of sunshine to thrive and produce its aromatic leaves. But if your aim is to fail at growing it, place it in a dark corner of your home, like between two kitchen appliances; it’s much more convenient, isn’t it?

Without sufficient light, your basil will desperately stretch in search of brightness, becoming thin and leggy. The leaves will turn pale green and fall off at the slightest touch.

But if, in a moment of compassion, you decide to give your basil a chance, place it in a sunny spot, like a south-facing windowsill or a well-exposed garden. It needs six hours of direct light per day to develop. You’ll see, it will quickly regain its vigour and vibrancy.

Lesson 3: forget about the ideal temperature

Basil enjoys mild and moderate temperatures but fears cold and excessive heat. To fail at growing it, forget all that and subject it to extreme temperatures. After all, why worry about its specific needs? In winter, leave it in its pot or container outside; nothing like a little cold snap to see it wilt! And in summer, leave it in the blazing sun, or better yet, in a greenhouse… The leaves will turn brown and crispy, looking literally cooked by the heat. You can then say goodbye to your salads and homemade pestos.

But if, by a miracle of common sense, you decide to give your basil a chance, keep it in an environment where the temperature is between 18 and 25 degrees Celsius. Avoid cold drafts and protect it from heatwaves. You’ll see, it will thank you by producing fresh and tasty leaves all season long.

Lesson 4: give it poor, compact soil

To spectacularly fail at growing your basil, plant it in poor, compact soil. For pot planting, use clayey or poor garden soil. Compact soil does not allow the roots to breathe or spread. Your basil, trapped in this vegetative prison, will suffer from a lack of oxygen and essential nutrients. Its suffocated roots will be unable to draw the necessary water and nutrients. You’ll see its leaves yellow, shrivel, and fall one by one. A true symphony of plant suffering!

To do it right, water this clayey soil just enough to turn it into a heavy, sticky mud, but not too much, or the basil might find a few drops of comfort. And above all, don’t even think about adding compost or fertilisers; that would be cheating.

But if, in a sudden fit of kindness, you decide to save your basil, provide it with light, well-drained soil enriched with compost. Add a bit of sand to improve drainage and ensure the soil remains slightly moist.

Lesson 5: never prune your basil

If your goal is to see your basil wither, never prune it! Let it grow as it pleases; it will manage on its own to become a chaotic bush.

Without pruning, your basil will become an impenetrable jungle of long, weak stems. The older, lower leaves, deprived of light, will yellow and fall, leaving behind a bare and unhealthy plant. In a few weeks, your basil will resemble a wild creature escaped from a tropical forest, but without the lushness or health. The stems will be so long and twisted that they won’t be able to stand upright, and the whole plant will eventually collapse under its own weight.

Also, let the flowers develop freely; after all, why not let the plant exhaust itself producing seeds instead of tasty leaves? Unless, of course, your goal is to obtain basil seeds. Soon, your basil will be unable to provide a single leaf worthy of being picked for your cooking.

But if, in a flash of genius, you decide to save your basil, prune it regularly. Cut the stems just above a node of leaves to encourage branching and the growth of new leaves. Remove the flowers as soon as they appear to keep the plant focused on producing leaves. You’ll see, your basil will become a dense, vigorous bush, ready to flavour your dishes all summer long.

Basil, this beloved herb of chefs and gardeners alike, is actually a bit temperamental… and many gardeners, whether novice or experienced, make classic mistakes that lead to disastrous results. Too much water, not enough light, poor soil, neglecting pruning… the list goes on! So why stand out? Isn’t it better to follow the crowd and […]

An overlooked vegetable, the Jerusalem artichoke, also known as Earth pear, Jerusalem artichoke, or Canadian truffle, is a root vegetable and perennial, cultivated for its edible tuber. Long dethroned in favour of the potato, it is now making a grand return to the vegetable garden and our plates! We explain why it is generating so much interest, what its qualities are, and how to grow it.

To learn everything about the Jerusalem artichoke and its cultivation, check out our complete guide: "Jerusalem Artichoke: planting, harvest, cultivation".

What is the Jerusalem artichoke?

The Jerusalem artichoke or Helianthus tuberosus is a perennial plant from the Asteraceae family originating from the central United States, where it was cultivated by Native American tribes. It was imported to France in 1607 and was widely consumed during World War II, as it was not requisitioned by the Germans, unlike the potato. It was later dethroned in favour of the latter, probably because it was associated with that dark period and synonymous with famine.

The Jerusalem artichoke forms large clumps reaching heights of 2.5 m to 3 m (but there are also dwarf varieties that do not exceed 50 cm in height). Its long, upright, rough stems bear dark green, oval to lanceolate leaves, 10 to 20 cm long, and at their top, from August to October, lovely yellow flowers resembling those of the sunflower, which belongs to the same family. It produces fleshy, nodose tubers that resemble ginger roots. This very vigorous plant spreads quickly thanks to its tubers, making it somewhat invasive. The Jerusalem artichoke is also closely related to Helianthus, another forgotten vegetable.

There are many varieties of Jerusalem artichoke, offering different shapes and colours of tubers, as well as different flavours. The variety 'Culinary Spindle', for example, is distinguished by its elongated, beige tubers with a slightly sweet flesh. There are also pink Jerusalem artichokes or purple ones.

Why is the Jerusalem artichoke back in the spotlight?

The Jerusalem artichoke is back in the limelight for several reasons:

Its taste qualities: The tubers of the Jerusalem artichoke have a delicate flavour reminiscent of artichoke, water chestnut, or salsify, with a slight sweetness. The Jerusalem artichoke is now being rehabilitated by top chefs. The famous Michelin-starred chef Alain Ducasse makes a delicious velouté from it.

Its nutritional qualities: The Jerusalem artichoke is reputed to be rich in fibre, phosphorus, potassium, iron, and B vitamins. It contains no starch. Although it has a slightly sweet taste, this is due to the presence of inulin, a natural fibre that does not affect blood sugar levels: the Jerusalem artichoke is therefore particularly suitable for diabetes. Additionally, inulin has the advantage of helping to regulate transit. Low in calories, the Jerusalem artichoke contains only 60 to 80 kcal per 100 g.

Its ease of cultivation: In addition to being a perennial vegetable, the Jerusalem artichoke is very easy to grow. It even tends to be a bit invasive! However, there are now dwarf varieties that adapt to pot cultivation, which can be placed, for example, on a terrace. The Jerusalem artichoke is also perfectly hardy.

Its productivity: The Jerusalem artichoke is very productive, even in poor soils. It can yield up to 3 kg of tubers per square metre under ideal conditions.

Adding to this is its lovely yellow flowering, which makes it a very ornamental plant! The Jerusalem artichoke will fit wonderfully into a productive ornamental garden, both beautiful and productive.

The yellow flowers of the Jerusalem artichoke

How to grow it?

The tubers are planted from February to June, for a harvest from November to March. The Jerusalem artichoke thrives in full sun or partial shade and prefers light, well-drained soils that are fairly rich in humus. However, it grows in any type of soil as long as it is sufficiently draining. For more information, feel free to consult our advice sheet "Planting Jerusalem artichokes".

Being somewhat invasive, it is important to allocate an appropriate space for the Jerusalem artichoke. Place it away from the vegetable garden (where it might smother other vegetables), for example, in a neglected corner of the garden. The dwarf varieties, which generally do not exceed 50 cm in height, can be planted in pots and are particularly suited for small gardens.

The tubers are harvested about 7 months after planting. Dig them up with a fork as needed. Once harvested, they do not keep well (only 2 to 3 days in the refrigerator), so it is better to only take what you need. It is also because the tubers do not store well that they are very rarely sold commercially… All the more reason to grow the Jerusalem artichoke in your garden!

How to cook it?

The tubers of the Jerusalem artichoke are usually peeled before consumption, but they can also be rinsed or brushed to remove dirt. The largest and least knobby tubers are obviously easier to peel. To prevent their flesh from oxidising and turning brown, you can soak them in water mixed with lemon juice. It is best to consume the Jerusalem artichoke in small quantities, as it has carminative properties and can be somewhat difficult to digest.

The Jerusalem artichoke lends itself to many recipes! Here are some suggestions for cooking it:

In salad: sliced or grated, like carrots, dressed with vinaigrette, for example.
In gratin: you can make a variation of gratin dauphinois by replacing the potatoes with Jerusalem artichokes.
In soup or velouté: with fresh cream and roasted hazelnuts.
Sautéed: with potatoes, mushrooms, and onions. You can enhance your dish with garlic, herbs de Provence...
In purée: combine them with potatoes to make a delicious purée. Season with cumin and nutmeg.
Baked: you can roast Jerusalem artichokes, seasoned with thyme, for example.

Harvesting and cooking the Jerusalem artichoke

An overlooked vegetable, the Jerusalem artichoke, also known as Earth pear, Jerusalem artichoke, or Canadian truffle, is a root vegetable and perennial, cultivated for its edible tuber. Long dethroned in favour of the potato, it is now making a grand return to the vegetable garden and our plates! We explain why it is generating so […]

I tested around twenty varieties of raspberry bushes in my garden in Lower Normandy, and then my family and I indulged in our love for sweets. ^^ We tasted, baked, re-tasted, compared, and of course, took notes. Discover our 5 favourite raspberries, selected based on several criteria and a variety that left us a bit disappointed.

Our selection criteria

1- Taste

This is obviously an important criterion! Raspberries can be more or less acidic or sweet, and their flavours can be more or less pronounced, sometimes with hints of blackberries ('Black Jewel'). Red raspberries are often the most aromatic, while yellow raspberries tend to be milder and sweeter.

2- Cultivation and care

Some varieties produce long canes that need to be managed, but there are smaller, even dwarf varieties ('Rustica', 'Ruby Beauty'...) that do not require staking and can be easily grown in pots on a terrace or balcony. Others are more resistant to diseases or pests like the raspberry borer. Finally, thornless varieties ('Glen Ample', 'Autumn Amber', 'Versailles') allow for easier harvesting.

To learn more about staking, read our article: How to properly stake raspberry bushes?

3- Use of the fruit

Depending on the firmness of the raspberries, they are used differently. The firmer ones are best enjoyed fresh or are more suitable for baking, while the others can be used in jam, jelly, or syrup.

4- Everbearing and non-everbearing varieties

Everbearing varieties produce twice a year (once at the end of summer and again in June-July the following year), while non-everbearing varieties only offer a single, abundant harvest in early summer. It is possible to mix both to extend the enjoyment.

5- Productivity

Some varieties are more productive than others, but you will need to wait three years of cultivation to achieve the abundant harvests you desire.

Note that it is possible to mix several varieties to improve production.

Our Top 5

Raspberry 'Marastar': the largest fruits - 19/20

This raspberry bush gave us the largest fruits! We enjoyed their flavour as well as their firmness. This is undoubtedly the best raspberry bush, both for baking and for table consumption.

Blackberry Raspberry 'Buckingham Tayberry': a delicious blackberry aroma - 17/20

Halfway between a blackberry and a raspberry, this variety produces large, elongated fruits with a subtle aroma. It is a climbing and productive variety. It is undoubtedly the most original of all.

Raspberry 'Black Jewel': astonishing black fruits - 16/20

This raspberry bush surprised us all with the colour of its fruits, which have pronounced blackberry aromas. With a firm texture, the fruits are also perfect for baking. Finally, it is a low-running variety.

Raspberry 'Fall Gold': the children's favourite - 14/20

Its yellow raspberries are not acidic and are a hit with sweet-toothed individuals. It's impossible to visit the garden without snacking on its fruits along the way. It impressed us with its vigour and productivity. However, it is very suckering and requires a large growing area.

Raspberry 'Autumn First': perfect for jam - 14/20

This variety is the most productive, it is well everbearing and early. It produces very aromatic fruits. For us, it is the best for making raspberry jams, jellies, or syrups.

The least impressive student

Raspberry 'Groovy': ornamental - 9/20

We appreciated this variety for its ornamental character. Its golden foliage is incredible and fits very well into a flowerbed. While it holds up well and does not require staking, it produces too few fruits for our taste, unfortunately!

Caring for raspberry bushes

To maintain my raspberry bushes, I add a good layer of homemade compost every autumn. In spring, I supplement with a special fertiliser for small fruits and then I cover the soil with mulch (shredded material, dried grass clippings, or fallen leaves in autumn) to retain moisture.

Equipped with a pair of gloves and armed with a pruning shear that is clean and well-sharpened, I always take care to remove dry, weak, or diseased stems and then I remove the suckers using a spade.

As for pruning, it's simple:

For non-everbearing raspberries: I intervene after the harvest, but it can also be done in winter. I remove all the canes that have fruited, the weakest suckers that will yield nothing, and I keep 8 to 10 shoots per clump.

For everbearing raspberries: In August, I completely remove the canes that have fruited twice, then in winter, I prune about 1/3 of the canes that fruited the previous autumn, ensuring harvests for the next summer.

To learn more about maintenance, check out our complete guide on raspberries as well as Ingrid's tips: pruning raspberries will hold no secrets for you.

List of tested raspberry varieties

'Autumn Amber'
'Black Jewel'
'Blissy' or 'Autumn Bliss'
'Bohème'
'Buckingham Tayberry'
'Raspberry Delight'
'Fall Gold'
'Glen Ample'
'Golden Everest'
'Groovy'
'Heritage'
'Magnific Delbard'
'Malling Happy'
'Malling Promise'
'Marastar'
'Meeker'
'Little Sweet Sister'
'Ruby Beauty'
'Paris'
'Rustica'
'Versailles'
'Willamette'
'Zeva'

The choice was really difficult as other varieties were also excellent, such as 'Malling Promise', 'Heritage', or 'Versailles' for example.

And you, what are your favourites? Let us know in the comments.

I tested around twenty varieties of raspberry bushes in my garden in Lower Normandy, and then my family and I indulged in our love for sweets. ^^ We tasted, baked, re-tasted, compared, and of course, took notes. Discover our 5 favourite raspberries, selected based on several criteria and a variety that left us a bit […]

The new year has just begun, bringing with it good resolutions and the desire to prepare your vegetable garden, particularly by purchasing your seed potatoes to grow. But when can you really buy your potatoes? What should you do with these precious tubercles while waiting for planting in the garden? Discover our tips for buying, storing, and preparing your potatoes for planting.

As from January for a good selection

Seed potatoes are often available from the beginning of the year, in January. The undeniable first advantage of buying your potatoes early is having a choice of variety: early potatoes, late potatoes, blight-resistant potatoes, or original and colourful potatoes, there is something for everyone.

Tip: at Promesse de fleurs, you can place an order and defer your delivery to a time of your choice.

From January to April depending on the climate and planting period

Did you know that you should buy your potatoes at least 6 weeks before the planting period? Indeed, to achieve a good yield, the potato needs to be chitted for 4 to 6 weeks before planting. The vigorous shoots obtained allow for better resistance of the potato plants to moisture. Additionally, this process speeds up the harvest period and consequently the crop rotation in the vegetable garden.

You should therefore determine your purchase date based on your planting date, taking this chitting period into account.

For southern regions:

The mild winters in the south of the country allow for planting as early as February-March under cover for the so-called "early" potatoes. Thus, we will buy our seed potatoes for growing under cover about a month in advance, in January.

Outdoor cultivation will begin around March to April, when the soil temperature exceeds 10°C. In this case, you should buy your potatoes around February-March.

For other regions:

In regions with harsher winters, the planting period under cover generally starts around March. You can therefore buy your seed potatoes for growing under cover 4 to 6 weeks before planting, starting in February.

For outdoor planting, this occurs between March and May, when the risk of late frosts has passed and soil temperatures are above 10°C. Taking the chitting time into account, you should buy your potatoes between February and April.

How to store potatoes in the meantime?

If you have bought potatoes too early, you can store them for several weeks in a wooden box or a jute sack. Then place your potatoes in the dark, in a cool, frost-free, dry, and ventilated place, such as a cellar or a garage without windows.
If, despite your efforts, some shoots appear well before the desired chitting period (4 to 6 weeks before planting), you can remove them to prevent the tubercles from exhausting themselves.

Until when can you buy potatoes?

The last potatoes can be purchased until May, for planting at the latest in June. Indeed, depending on the variety, potatoes need to be grown for 60 to 120 days to yield a bountiful harvest. You will need to consider this growing time and the chitting time to choose the appropriate variety.

Also take into account your weather and temperatures at the end of summer, particularly towards the end of August and September. In very cold (for example, mountainous) or very humid regions, growing potatoes late in the season can be compromised. It is better to "anticipate" and plant in April-May or use cloches or fleece covers.

The origins of the sweet potato

Unknown in the wild, the origin of Ipomoea batatas has long been debated. Scientific and archaeological studies have established that it is likely native to tropical or subtropical America. A great diversity of Ipomoea can be found from southern Mexico, in the Yucatán Peninsula, to the Orinoco basin in Venezuela. Given this large number of varieties, scientists believe this is its cradle of origin.

Thanks to archaeological excavations, we also know that this tuberous plant was present in Peru 8,000 to 6,000 years BC. Evidence of its intentional cultivation dates back to 4500 BC, but it is highly likely that it was used in agriculture long before that.

The journey of the sweet potato

Between the years 1000 and 1100, the sweet potato is believed to have set off to conquer Polynesia alongside travellers. It then continued its journey to New Zealand, Easter Island, and Hawaii.

The sweet potato arrived in Europe following the expeditions led by Christopher Columbus in 1492. It was primarily cultivated in the Mediterranean regions. Next, the Philippines discovered its flavour in the 16th century thanks to Spanish traders. It enjoyed great success there, which then led it to China in 1594, and to Japan around 1605. Portuguese merchants introduced it to Africa around the same period.

In France, it was not until 1750 that it garnered some interest, thanks to Louis XV, who appreciated its sweet flesh. However, its cultivation in France remains shaky and it has struggled to establish itself up to the present day.

Illustration of Christopher Columbus during his explorations.

The origin of its name: Ipomoea batatas

The genus name Ipomoea is composed of "ips", meaning "worm" in Greek, and "homoios", which means "similar". It can be translated as "worm-like plant", referring to its creeping stems.

The term "batatas" was the name given to it by the "Tainos", the people of the Caribbean island where Christopher Columbus landed in 1492.

Where does the term 'sweet potato' come from?

The origin of this name is uncertain, but here is the explanation that seems most plausible to historians: shortly after the discovery of "batatas", Spanish conquistadors brought back the potato from Peru, which was then called "papa" by the indigenous peoples. Since both plants are tuberous and come from the same continent, it seems that Spanish traders referred to them as "patata", a contraction of the two names. In France, "patata" translates to "patate". However, to avoid confusion, the adjective "sweet" was added to distinguish the sweet potato from the common potato.

Sweet potato 'Beauregard' and sweet potato 'Murasaki'

Sweet potato in the garden

In our latitudes, the sweet potato is primarily grown in the garden for its unique flavour. Preferring warmth and humidity, it thrives especially in southern regions, in open ground, where its yield will be better. Elsewhere, it prefers cultivation in greenhouses or pots. Farmers in northern regions even achieve excellent harvests in open ground by protecting its tuberous roots with a black tarp placed over the soil. The sweet potato grows in most soil types, but particularly enjoys loose, sandy, rich, never dry, and well-drained soils.

Its creeping stems and attractive foliage mean that the sweet potato is now invited into pots and window boxes, alongside annuals. It can be paired with the blue of lobelias and the bright pink of pelargoniums.

The beautiful foliage of Sweet potato 'Paradise Makatea' in a pot, alongside a lavender and a cherry tomato plant

Cooking sweet Potato

Although they are not from the same family, sweet potato tubers can be cooked like those of the common potato. You can prepare them in gratins, purées, soups, stir-fries, and even fries or chips. Their slightly sweet taste is also suitable for desserts, such as cakes, tarts, and jams. Even their leaves are edible and can be cooked like spinach. The sweet potato appears to be rich in beta-carotene, vitamin B6, and minerals (copper and manganese).

Cooked sweet potatoes - Image by Bernadette Wurzinger (Pixabay)

Legumes: essential proteins

"But where do you find the proteins?" is one of the most common questions. First of all, it's important to know that all vegetables contain protein, but it is mainly in legumes (lentils, beans, peas, broad beans…), and in oleaginous (walnuts, hazelnuts) that they are most present. Cereals also contain them, but they are a little more tricky to grow in the garden!

My selection:

Flambo dwarf shelling bean : this improved variety yields two to three successive harvests per year, from July to October. I really like its white beans speckled with pink and its very delicate flavour. They can be eaten fresh, dried or semi-dried. Once cooked, they lose their colour, but it's not a big deal—the pleasure also lies in shelling these little wonders! In cooking, it's very easy to prepare, with tomatoes, for example. You can also make delicious veloutés.
Aguadulce long-pod broad bean : Early, very productive and vigorous, this broad bean produces spectacular pods that can reach 40 cm! They contain large fleshy seeds, tender to the bite. It's one of the first legumes harvested in the kitchen garden, as early as May if you sow it in February. Great in spring Buddha bowls, with radishes and young carrots, broad beans also allow you to prepare tapenades for dipping your breadsticks.
Canadian Wonder red shelling dwarf bean : this red flageolet is an old variety also known as "Rooster's Kidney." Very productive, it also stores well when dried. It's a Mexican cuisine classic that remains the base of chili, even when it's "sin carne" (without meat). It can also be cooked as a patty and replace the steak in veggie burgers.
Chickpea : it is a crop that many gardeners do not immediately think of. Yet chickpeas are easy to grow in warm, dry climates. They yield, in four months, round, beige seeds. Rich in protein (19 g / 100 g), chickpeas are widely used in vegetarian cooking, as is or mashed, with condiments and tahini for the indispensable hummus.
Garden soybean : soybean is a well-known legume that grows in a mild climate, as simply as beans. The more experienced gardeners can turn its seeds into soy milk or tofu… but it is easier to grow it to enjoy greens, with the pod, as edamame.

Haricot Flambo, haricots rouges, fèves, pois chiches

Colorful vegetables, sweet taste, for vitamins and fun

In the pleasure of eating, presentation matters almost as much as taste. Crafting an appetising salad is a ritual for those who seek to eat mindfully. In winter, colour is also important, but the gentle flavours are particularly comforting—don’t deprive yourself!

My selection :

Indigo Rose tomato : it’s a cocktail tomato with a bluish-purple skin, almost black, and pink to deep purple flesh. It owes its colour to the presence of anthocyanin, a pigment found in fruits such as blueberries or grapes and rich in antioxidants. When sliced, it adds depth to salads, especially if mixed with other distinctive varieties like Pineapple tomato. In the garden, it grows like any tomato and shows good vigour and frost resistance.
Chioggia beetroot : early, this small round beetroot is very decorative. Sown from April to May, it is harvested from early summer and shows pink flesh striped with white and a sweet flavour. It’s the beetroot to eat raw, in carpaccio or grated, in salads!
Butternut squash : one of my favourite squashes, not only because it does everything (purée, gratins, chips, soups), but especially because its sweet, mellow flavour is incomparable. If I love it so much, it’s also because it is particularly easy to cut, which is handy when you’re in a hurry! In the kitchen, in a cool climate, it’s not always the most productive, but its flavour more than makes up for this small drawback!
Sweet potato : originating from South America, the sweet potato is a vegetable that loves warmth and regular watering… but it will reward your efforts with handsome orange-fleshed tubers, wonderfully comforting in the heart of winter! Depending on your soil and climate, you can plant it in the ground or in pots, from mid-May. In my garden, it does particularly well when slightly caramelised with honey and sprinkled with sesame seeds… but it can also be simply roasted in the oven!

Indigo Blue tomato, Chioggia beetroot, sweet potato and butternut squash

Litlle extras and boosters

Last winter, I told you about "superfoods": chia seeds, pumpkin seeds, kale, goji berries... They are, of course, included in my selection! (I invite you to read about them in this article). To this list, this year I add these French books:

On 16 January 2018, the Eat Foundation published a report in the medical journal The Lancet that confirms what we had suspected for several years: for our health, to feed the world and the inhabitants of the planet, there is an urgent need to move to a plant-based diet. Do you find this dull, or […]

The festive season often leaves its mark: a muddled complexion, an overloaded liver, and mysteriously shrunk clothes… It’s no wonder that Eating better is among the top 10 New Year’s resolutions. To achieve this, nothing beats "superfoods"! Here’s my little selection of "healthy" fruits and vegetables that are particularly good for your health, which you can grow in your garden; this will also allow you to get a bit of exercise 😉

1) Chia Seeds

Chia seeds come from an annual sage, Salvia hispanica, native to Mexico. Cultivated for thousands of years on the American continent, this tiny seed has only recently made its way onto our plates. Packed with numerous benefits, it is an excellent source of omega-3 and fibre. Additionally, it has the unique ability to thicken preparations by forming a mucilage when in contact with liquid, which increases the satiety effect of foods.

How to use chia seeds?
Chia seeds have a mild flavour, although some find a pleasant nutty note. They can be sprinkled on salads, mixed into homemade bread, or added to yoghurts. Virginie makes an excellent pudding in the morning with almond milk and seasonal fruits.
How to grow chia seeds in the garden?
Chia grows easily in a mild climate, in good soil. Sowing takes place in spring, and the seeds are harvested in autumn. Be careful, this sage is not hardy!

Chia seeds: a "superfood" from a sage, Salvia hispanica

2) Kale

A true trendy vegetable, kale has garnered a lot of attention in recent years. And if Americans are crazy about it, it’s because of its high content of fibre, iron, vitamins A, C, and K, as well as antioxidants. Excellent for eye health due to the lutein and zeaxanthin it contains. It is also a very good source of calcium.

How to use kale?
Kale is best consumed raw to retain maximum vitamins. It can easily be juiced to "boost" a smoothie or juice. It can also be cooked, for example, in a gratin. But I won’t lie to you: kale leaves are quite tough! Before consuming, they should be softened after removing the central rib. To do this, look, it’s easy (it’s in English but you’ll understand quickly):

Growing kale
This cabbage is grown like any curly cabbage. It requires rich soil but has the advantage of being very resistant to diseases and pests. To learn more, check out our advice sheet: "growing kale and curly cabbage in the vegetable garden."

Kale Kale, a "super cabbage" that loves massages

3) Flower Sprout

The Flower Sprout or Kalettes (BrusselKale for English speakers) is a promising newcomer. A hybrid of kale and Brussels sprouts, it produces, like Brussels sprouts, stems adorned with leaf buds. These mini-cabbages, serrated, dark green, and purple, are low in calories and very rich in vitamins C, K, and B6. The icing on the cake is that this cabbage also tastes good… Indeed, it is not bitter, and its sweet and mild flavour is accompanied by a pleasant nutty note. Original, it will also delight busy cooks as it cooks very quickly and retains a pleasant crunchy texture.

Flower sprout in the kitchen
Quick to cook, it can be prepared in any way you like: steamed, quickly sautéed, or boiled in just 4 minutes… all with little to no smell. Versatile, it can serve as a side dish, but also as a base for many salads and, like kale, can be added to fruit juices.
Growing flower sprouts
In the vegetable garden, these small cabbages are grown just like Brussels sprouts. To learn more, follow our advice: "Growing Brussels sprouts"

Flower sprout, a small cabbage that is easy and good for health The Flower Sprout: half kale, half Brussels sprout - Photo: www.kalettes.com

4) Ginger

Exotic, ginger has long been known for its aphrodisiac effects. Popularised with the rise of sushi restaurants, it is now appreciated for its taste as well as its tonic, digestive, antibacterial, and antioxidant properties.

Fresh ginger in the kitchen
The health benefits of ginger are numerous, but it is especially essential in Asian cuisine (in marinades, broths, or stir-fries to enhance a wok), as well as in traditional cooking. At home, I often use it in baking to add a kick to apple compotes. I also love it candied; its spicy flavour is perfect for a little boost during moments of fatigue. Finally, ginger can also be used in infusions with lemon as part of a detox cure.
Growing your own ginger:
Ginger is not complicated to grow, but it needs warmth. Unless you live in a tropical zone, it is best grown in a large pot, indoors or under a heated veranda.

Ginger Ginger rhizome can be used in infusions as part of a detox cure

5) Goji

Goji berries come from an Asian bush, the Lycium. They are consumed fresh or dried. This small fruit has long been popular for its content of vitamins B, C, and E, but especially for its richness in antioxidants. However, its popularity has somewhat diminished following the discovery of batches, even certified organic, containing high levels of pesticides. All the more reason to grow them yourself!

What to do with goji berries?
Fresh, goji berries can be added to homemade mueslis and granolas, yoghurts, fruit salads, or even juices. They can also add a sweet note to salads. Dried, they easily incorporate into cookies and other cakes.
Can you grow goji in your garden?
Yes, absolutely! Like many Asian shrubs, Lycium barbarum thrives in our climates. It is hardy and even tolerates lime. However, it is in the sunniest regions that it will fruit best. To learn all about growing these delicious berries, check out our advice sheet: "Cultivation, harvest, and drying of goji berries"

Goji berries lend themselves to many preparations. Add them to your mueslis daily

6) Black Radish

The black radish is one of those vegetables that can be a bit puzzling at first glance. Generally large, it has a black skin that covers a white, crunchy flesh, rich in potassium and magnesium. Slightly laxative and detoxifying, black radish aids digestion and "cleanses" the liver, but it is especially appreciated for its antibacterial properties. Rich in raphanine, it helps treat winter ailments like coughs.

How to use black radish?
This radish is simply consumed raw, in thin slices or grated, in salads or on a slice of buttered bread. You can also choose to extract its juice, which, when mixed with sugar, makes an excellent syrup for a productive cough. The radish greens can also be prepared in soup.
How to grow black radish in the vegetable garden
This is a winter radish that is sown in summer. Its cultivation is not difficult, but due to its long root, it requires fairly deep and well-loosened soil.

Long Winter Black Radish

7) Pumpkin Seeds

Pumpkin seeds are very rich in protein (between 20 and 25%), unsaturated fatty acids, vitamins, and minerals, including magnesium and iron. Often consumed as part of a vegetarian or vegan diet, they are also indicated for relieving urinary problems.

How to incorporate pumpkin seeds into your diet?
Roasted, pumpkin seeds are perfect as a snack or nibble. Whole or crushed, they can be sprinkled on salads or incorporated into bread or cake mixtures.
How to produce your own pumpkin seeds:
All pumpkins are suitable, but to avoid the tedious peeling process, you should choose the Lady Godiva Pumpkin. This variety has the advantage of producing seeds without a shell. To succeed, proceed as with other pumpkins: give it a spacious area and plant it in rich soil or heavily enriched compost, even if it is not fully matured.

Producing your own pumpkin seeds The Lady Godiva pumpkin (Photo: Ferme de Sainte Marthe), a perfect pumpkin for seed production. Its medium flesh is very suitable for soups.

And you, do you consume one or more of these "superfoods"? Let us know!

The festive season often leaves its mark: a muddled complexion, an overloaded liver, and mysteriously shrunk clothes… It’s no wonder that Eating better is among the top 10 New Year’s resolutions. To achieve this, nothing beats “superfoods”! Here’s my little selection of “healthy” fruits and vegetables that are particularly good for your health, which you […]

The first morning frosts have appeared, and it's a bit of the beginning of the end in the vegetable garden, unless, like me, you have a garden greenhouse.

The term greenhouse is broad and encompasses various types of structures that offer varying levels of protection against the cold. For vegetable cultivation, the most commonly used model by market gardeners and gardeners is the tunnel greenhouse.

Although unheated, this greenhouse, known as a "cold greenhouse", is nonetheless very practical. The main advantage is that temperatures rise quickly inside. In the heart of winter, even the slightest ray of sunshine can provide a gentle warmth, conducive to vegetable development. Additionally, by blocking the wind, the greenhouse also limits the effects of the cold.

Let’s explore everything you can do in it, as well as the precautions to take when cultivating under cover.

A greenhouse in the vegetable garden: possibilities and advantages

Significantly extend the seasons

The greenhouse, by creating a favourable microclimate and protecting vegetables from light frosts, allows for earlier and later cultivation and harvesting. The soil warms up quickly in spring, enabling seeds to germinate rapidly. Thus, in a mild climate, it is possible to sow carrots, early lettuces, radishes as early as January, and to harvest courgettes in June, as well as tomatoes, aubergines, and cucumbers until the end of October.

Increase productivity

The warmth of the greenhouse also allows for successful cultivation of a wider range of vegetables, particularly those "of the sun" such as tomatoes, peppers, and other more exotic varieties like sweet potatoes or kiwano, which are often less productive in regions with a "hostile" climate. Planted in a warm environment that suits them perfectly, they grow better and faster, thus offering higher yields.

Growing under a tunnel allows for grape harvests, even in a cold climate. Photo credit: Local Food Initiative

Protect against certain diseases

As mentioned in our advice sheet: "Tomato: downy mildew, other diseases and pests", the best protection is to cultivate them under cover. Indeed, the greenhouse, by sheltering from rain, significantly reduces the risk of cryptogamic diseases.

Sow and propagate without clutter

Anyone who grows their vegetable plants knows: from March to May, the house is usually very cluttered with tender vegetables that cannot be planted in the garden before the Ice Saints. Although the cold greenhouse is not suitable for very early sowing, sometimes done as early as February, it still allows for storage, or even planting, as early as April, with appropriate additional protection (thick fleece, frames, or specific installations like a heated box) in anticipation of cold nights.

The greenhouse is also the ideal place to grow cuttings, such as those from blackcurrant and gooseberry bushes prepared in autumn, which will be planted in the following spring.

The cold greenhouse is well-suited for sowing and sheltering cuttings. To protect your plants, consider adding extra protection to prevent potential damage from a cold night.

The limitations of the cold greenhouse

Temperature regulation

It may not be immediately obvious, but in an unheated tunnel greenhouse, it can freeze. It can also get very hot very quickly. The thermal inertia is very low, and without your intervention: temperatures can, within 24 hours, swing dramatically: dropping to -5 °C at night and rising to +40 °C during the day. This temperature range is uncomfortable for plants!

To avoid this, there is only one solution: ventilation… which is usually done by opening the doors or side openings, if the tunnel has them. Regular ventilation also helps to expel excess humidity that encourages the appearance of diseases like powdery mildew. As you can see, managing the climate of a greenhouse can sometimes be a bit tricky and requires, above all, almost constant presence!

Under cover, regulating ambient humidity is important to avoid diseases.

Watering management

In the greenhouse, don’t rely on the sky for watering (unless you opt for the "Cabriolet" model from Serres Tonneau) but on your own strong arms or, if not, your clever mind… This may seem obvious, but to cultivate in this enclosed environment, planning for water supply, storage, and possibly an autonomous watering system is crucial. That said, the issue of watering is certainly the easiest to resolve. In our case, the greenhouse is over 50 meters from the house: the collected rainwater is transferred via a small pump to a dedicated reservoir for the greenhouse. The automatic watering system is gravity-fed and does not require electricity.

Questionable aesthetics

While glass greenhouses generally blend well into gardens, let’s be honest: the same cannot be said for tunnel greenhouses. At night, under the full moon, it may look almost pretty, but the same cannot be said during the day! Nevertheless, there are solutions to integrate it: cultivate around tall plants (Jerusalem artichokes, giant sunflowers, cardoons…) or place it at the back of the garden.

However, know that the appearance of the greenhouse is quickly forgotten when you experience the joy of cultivating and gardening under it on rainy days!

A greenhouse is also a little haven of peace where gardening, even in winter, is a pleasure! Photo credit: Caltriana Nicholson

Finally, discover a Selectos selection of the best garden greenhouses.

The first morning frosts have appeared, and it’s a bit of the beginning of the end in the vegetable garden, unless, like me, you have a garden greenhouse. The term greenhouse is broad and encompasses various types of structures that offer varying levels of protection against the cold. For vegetable cultivation, the most commonly used […]

Once relatively unknown, Yuzu or "Yuzu Lemon" is currently experiencing a true surge in popularity. This is hardly surprising, as it is essential in Asian cuisine; this small Japanese lemon with its aromatic flavour is now used by top chefs and renowned pastry chefs alike.

And as is often the case with vegetables and fruits from Japan, buying fresh fruit is almost an impossible mission. But if you accept this challenge... and succeed, be prepared to pay the price: over 50 euros per kilo!

The best solution (after the black market or a friend who pilots for Japan Airlines) is, therefore, to plant your own Japanese lemon tree.

But before you dive in, let’s take stock of its uses, the taste of its fruit, its benefits, and how to cultivate it in our climates.

What is Yuzu?

The term Yuzu refers to both the fruit, the Yuzu lemons, and the small tree that bears them.

This Japanese lemon tree (Citrus junos, family Rutaceae) appears as a large bush with very thorny branches and evergreen foliage. It is believed to be the result of hybridization between the wild mandarin and Citrus ichangensis, or Ichang lemon.

From its parents, Yuzu has retained a remarkable vigour and hardiness, around -10 to -12 °C, which is uncommon for a citrus and allows it to be cultivated in our climates.

The Yuzu fruit, although often likened to a lemon, resembles more a large mandarin. About the size of a tennis ball, it is covered with a thick, slightly bumpy skin, which is green and turns yellow-orange at ripeness. Its flesh contains many seeds and produces relatively little juice.

Yuzu lemon fruits - Photos: Seahill, Edsel Little

What does Yuzu taste like? How to use it in cooking?

The flavour of Yuzu is unique and powerful. Very tangy, it can be described as a subtle blend of grapefruit, mandarin, and lime, with spicy notes of bergamot.

In cooking, Yuzu is suitable for both savoury and sweet preparations:

the zest of Yuzu is used as a condiment to flavour fish and shellfish, as well as to enhance butter or add an original touch to a chocolate tart.
the juice of Yuzu is used to marinate meats and fish, as well as to make exquisite sorbets. In pastry, it elevates fruity mousses and other creams, such as the delightful Yuzu curd.

Is Yuzu good for health?

Like all citrus fruits, Yuzu is known to be very rich in vitamin C. It is invigorating and may boost immunity. It is also believed to have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties.

By the way, did you know that a popular belief in Japan suggests taking Yuzu baths at the winter solstice to ward off colds for the entire year!

Look, it seems very fun!

Is it possible to grow Yuzu in your garden?

But before you can indulge in a Yuzu bath, you need to grow them… and, as I mentioned earlier, it is entirely possible in France.

Although hardy, Yuzu prefers warm and sheltered situations. Its cultivation in open ground is therefore mainly recommended in mild climates or in the area known as "the olive zone", which corresponds to the Mediterranean basin. Elsewhere, we advise you to install it in a large pot and move it to a cool place when a cold snap is forecast.

Vigorous but with a somewhat slow growth in the first few years, the Japanese lemon tree typically bears fruit after reaching the age of 4. The harvest occurs in autumn, from September to December.

This does require a bit of patience, but it will be rewarded with a harvest of delicious, rare, and original fruits!

Once relatively unknown, Yuzu or “Yuzu Lemon” is currently experiencing a true surge in popularity. This is hardly surprising, as it is essential in Asian cuisine; this small Japanese lemon with its aromatic flavour is now used by top chefs and renowned pastry chefs alike. And as is often the case with vegetables and fruits […]

Have you heard of the cucamelon? I hadn't either… well, until I came across it among the new additions to our wide range of vegetable seeds.

Cucamelon: what is it?

The cucamelon (Melothria scabra) is a climbing plant belonging to the cucurbit family. Also known as the pickling cucumber or "Mouse Melon" in North America. It originates from Central America and Mexico, where it is grown as a perennial plant.

Curious by nature, I sowed my first cucamelon at the end of March to plant out in June. After a rather disastrous start (heatwave + forgotten watering rarely produce good results), it soon recovered and lived up to its reputation as an easy-to-grow plant.

Cucamelon: tiny flower followed by an adorable little fruit

Quickly, its thin, tendril-bearing stems grabbed the wire mesh to form a pretty tangle of lobed leaves. Thanks to a relatively rainy summer, my cucamelon plant developed without any care (nor any sign of powdery mildew!) and is giving me a very respectable harvest this late summer!

In terms of flavour, it was a pleasant surprise: this adorable mini-watermelon has, as promised, a cucumber taste with a slight tang that is far from unpleasant. It is eaten with the skin on, which adds an equally pleasing crunch.

... needless to say, cucamelon is a vegetable children love!

What can you do with cucamelons?

Don't be mistaken, cucamelons are not only there to feed an army of hungry Playmobil figures... They can be eaten and prepared in various ways.

Quite simply, cucamelons are best eaten raw with a pinch of salt, as an aperitif. They can also be used to garnish cocktails such as mojitos: your lemon slice will feel less lonely! A few cucamelons added to a salad of cherry tomatoes or served with radishes also make a lovely addition… Finally, they will delight pickle lovers as they keep very well pickled in vinegar, like gherkins.

For a large jar of 500 g of pickled cucamelons, here is my recipe:

pick cucamelons just before full maturity (neither too thin nor too plump),
wash them thoroughly,
prepare white vinegar (400 ml) by adding 1 teaspoon of salt, 4 tablespoons of cane sugar, 1 tablespoon of mint leaves, 1 tablespoon of dill leaves (washed and chopped beforehand), coriander seeds,
put the cucamelons in the jar, pour in the vinegar and close the lid,
store in the fridge for one month then enjoy!
Storing cucamelons: quick and easy!

And you, have you ever grown cucamelons? How do you prepare them?

Have you heard of the cucamelon? I hadn’t either… well, until I came across it among the new additions to our wide range of vegetable seeds. Cucamelon: what is it? The cucamelon (Melothria scabra) is a climbing plant belonging to the cucurbit family. Also known as the pickling cucumber or “Mouse Melon” in North America. […]

There are many good reasons to grow your own vegetable garden, and the ability to cultivate unique vegetables that are not easily found in shops is one of them. Among these are Asian vegetables as well as aromatic plants, which, unless you live in the 13^th arrondissement of Paris, are a rare commodity at greengrocers!

However, these Chinese vegetables, as well as Japanese ones, sometimes curious, can thrive quite well in our latitudes... and here is a small list that will delight all lovers of exotic cuisine... as well as those who enjoy more traditional dishes.

1) Daikon or white radish

The Daikon (raphanus sativus longipinnatus) is a large winter white radish. A cousin of the black radish, it offers a sweet, juicy flesh and stores very well.

In Japanese cuisine, it is consumed raw, in salads, much like grated carrots. It is sometimes pickled or cooked by steaming or stir-frying. Diuretic and draining, it is often regarded as a true health food.

Its cultivation in the vegetable garden poses no difficulty if you ensure the soil is well loosened beforehand.

2) Pak choi or Bok choy

The Pak Choï, also known as Bok choy (Brassica rapa chinensis), is a Chinese cabbage with tender heads, composed of light green leaves with white bases. This cabbage offers a flavour that evokes both chicory, classic cabbage, and turnip.

You can prepare it raw or cooked, quickly stir-fried in a wok or braised. Its flavour pairs well with ginger, as well as with shiitake mushrooms, if you are lucky enough to find them near you (no need to search in the wild, these Japanese mushrooms do not grow spontaneously here!).

3) Pe-tsai or Napa cabbage

The Pé-Tsaï, also known as Napa cabbage (Brassica rapa pekinensis) is another type of Chinese cabbage, quite different from Pak choi. A bit closer to our traditional white cabbages, it produces beautiful dense, elongated heads. Its shiny green leaves are equipped with large midribs.

You will enjoy its sweet and delicate flavour by tasting it raw in salads, but also cooked in a wok with crunchy vegetables. This Chinese cabbage can also serve as a base for less exotic recipes, accompanying sausages and other charcuterie.

In the vegetable garden, these two cabbages are grown somewhat like classic cabbages but require a bit more warmth. For all you need to know about their cultivation, feel free to consult our advice sheet: Succeeding in growing Chinese cabbages.

Pak choi and Pe-tsai: two very different Asian cabbages

4) Japanese crosnes

The Crosnes du Japon (Stachys affinis) belong to the category of perpetual vegetables. These are rhizomatous vegetable plants grown not for their aerial parts, but for their tubercles, which remind me of the roots of the oat with a necklace.

If crosnes are so renowned, it is for their fine flavour, somewhere between artichoke and Jerusalem artichoke, but also because they are sold at a premium price as their harvest cannot be mechanised.

In the garden, they thrive best in fairly rich and sandy soil. And since they need to be dug up with a fork, harvesting is made easier. Be careful, they look a bit like mint, so avoid planting them nearby to prevent having to "untangle" them before harvest!

Introduced to France in the 19^th century, crosnes have already made their place in our kitchens where they are generally consumed, French-style, sautéed, fried, or mashed.

Japanese crosnes: a root vegetable of Asian origin

5) Mizuna or Japanese mustard

The Mizuna (Brassica rapa nipposinica), like rocket, belongs to the large family of brassicas. It is a pleasant little salad with fine laciniate leaves. This Japanese vegetable offers a rather mild flavour with a peppery note that works wonders in salads.

In the garden, mizuna cabbage is very easy to grow, it can be sown directly in the ground or under cover (greenhouse, frame) from May to September. It has the advantage of growing and regrowing quickly, offering its delicious leaves even in winter.

In the kitchen, it is highly appreciated in salads but can also serve as a base for pesto, decorating and accompanying all sorts of Asian dishes. Cooked, mizuna is consumed much like spinach: quickly sautéed or even in soup.

Mizuna: a Japanese salad to discover!

Discover all our tips for succeeding in growing Mizuna.

6) Japanese burdock or Gobo

The Japanese burdock (Arctium lappa) is a large plant cultivated for its long root, which resembles and tastes like salsify. It is a biennial, but you won’t have to wait long to harvest it as it can be extracted just 3 months after sowing.

The burdock root, rich in vitamins, is also known for its many properties (purifying, antiseptic, antifungal…).

I won’t sugarcoat it, burdock is not an easy plant to grow in the vegetable garden. It is quite demanding regarding soil, which it prefers to be loose and deep, as well as on watering, which must be regular and abundant throughout the growing period. If you have good soil... and a reliable automatic watering system, go for it!

Its long brown root can be consumed raw or cooked. Extremely rare in France, this root vegetable, a bit fibrous, is finely grated for salads or cut into julienne and then stir-fried.

Japanese burdock, an Asian root vegetable almost impossible to find in France

7) Lemongrass

The lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus), not to be confused with lemon balm or lemon verbena, is a herbaceous plant also known as Madagascan lemongrass. And if English speakers call it "lemongrass", it is because it is indeed a grass and exudes a delightful lemony fragrance. It is widely found throughout Southeast Asia, and all those who have discovered it during a trip to Vietnam or Thailand cherish wonderful memories.

In the garden, lemongrass prefers rich soils, warmth, and water, especially during its growing period. It is a tender plant, not hardy, often grown in pots and sheltered during winter. Its cultivation is possible in a cold greenhouse in regions with mild winters (successfully tested here in Brittany).

Note that lemongrass (both the plant and essential oil) is reputed to repel mosquitoes.

In the kitchen, the bases of its stalks are consumed. Once peeled, they are chopped to flavour sauces for white meats (the famous "chicken with lemongrass"), fish, broths, and marinades. It pairs very well with ginger, curry, and coconut milk.

Lemongrass: an aromatic plant that will take you on a journey!

This list of Asian vegetables is, of course, not exhaustive. If you are curious, enjoy exotic flavours, and have a taste for travel, even just gastronomically, I invite you to discover our selection "World Flavours" which features a lovely range of fruits, vegetables, and herbs from all five continents... to cultivate in your garden!

There are many good reasons to grow your own vegetable garden, and the ability to cultivate unique vegetables that are not easily found in shops is one of them. Among these are Asian vegetables as well as aromatic plants, which, unless you live in the 13th arrondissement of Paris, are a rare commodity at greengrocers! […]

Sowing beans is always fairly late for us and takes place in June. Partly because I time it so first harvests coincide with our return from holiday… (sowing date + about 60 days) and partly because I need time to build the structures that will support them.

In fact, I favour climbing beans (pole beans) over dwarf beans, which are quicker to sow and easy to grow. So why go to all that trouble? Because climbing beans have other advantages, of course!

Climbing beans: an ornamental crop

The first reason I grow pole beans is vanity! Our vegetable garden is visible from the terrace (very handy for giving the beds a quick hoe while chatting to those lounging on the sunloungers…) so it needs to be ornamental. Tall bamboo canes or steel reinforcing bars, set up as teepees or Canadian tents, immediately create beautiful vertical lines. Once the beans are well developed, the structure disappears under the luxuriant foliage, giving the garden a slightly jungle-like feel that I quite like. And that doesn’t even take into account their pretty flowering!

A teepee installation - Source: Pinterest

A space-saving crop

The second advantage is that this crop occupies very little ground space since the plants grow vertically. If you plant them in a single south-facing row, climbing beans also have the advantage of providing welcome shade to other vegetables, such as lettuces, which dislike high heat.

They are also very easy to grow in a small garden and even in a pot on a terrace or balcony, since the supports can be propped against a wall or a fence.

Abundant harvests

The third benefit is the high productivity of this type of bean. Indeed, relative to ground area they give good yields, around 2 to 2.5 kilos per m² (compared with only 1 to 1.5 kilos per m² for dwarf beans), on average.

Easier harvesting

Ease of harvesting is the fourth advantage: no more bending down and stooping along the row to pick them: they’re within reach. You may have to stretch occasionally but it’s nothing insurmountable, even if your supports reach three metres high, and here’s why:

Great flexibility!

The final asset of pole beans is their flexibility… not in climbing the supports but in being harvested late. As mentioned above, many varieties, such as Mélissa, Blauhilde, Phénomène, can be eaten both as mange-tout and as shelled beans.

Put away the stepladder because the principle is simple: pick young and eat whole whatever is within reach and leave the high-up pods to mature. At the end of the season, take down the structure and gather everything that remains to eat as shelled beans, fresh or dried.

Finally, note that climbing beans can be added to flower beds and even planted in the middle of the lawn, combining the useful with the pleasant by turning into a little den for children.

Two playful structures - Source: Pinterest

Sowing beans is always fairly late for us and takes place in June. Partly because I time it so first harvests coincide with our return from holiday… (sowing date + about 60 days) and partly because I need time to build the structures that will support them. In fact, I favour climbing beans (pole beans) […]

Growing your garden is a political act. I am not the one who says it, Pierre Rabhi is.

And where politics is involved, it often implies doctrine, majority, opposition and protest movements.

You must be wondering what got into me or what I put in my morning coffee! Rest assured, it is about growing, pruning and management of tomatoes that I will talk about today, since it is a perfect example of a subject that divides gardeners.

Indeed, for decades it has been accepted that tomatoes, with an iron hand in a rubber glove, are firmly staked, are trained with rigour and are pruned. It is a tradition with strict rules: plants standing to attention on unyielding stakes and the systematic, merciless removal of "suckers". Order and method.

Everything would have been simple without the arrival of a new generation of gardeners, rebellious enough to question what they consider horticultural myths. Above all, curious or cheeky enough to experiment with alternative methods such as growing tomatoes in cages, laid flat on the ground, free and unpruned, and even without water.

Sterile protest, dangerous laxity, or the start of anarchy? (Tell me how you grow your tomatoes and I will tell you who you vote for...)

But before commissioning pollsters, let us explore these different, not exactly conventional methods...

Tomatoes in cages: supervised freedom

Putting into a cage to free may sound somewhat contradictory. In practice, let us say it is freedom under supervision.

This method consists of growing tomatoes without pruning, surrounding plants with a wire cage to support them and contain their abundant foliage. These cages have a double advantage: they free the gardener from both the slavery of hunting "suckers" and the servitude of daily watering, thanks to the water reservoir provided within the cage itself. To make them, we have prepared a step-by-step tutorial that explains everything: building a tomato cage

Tomatoes also benefit from this technique: unpruned, they no longer have wounds and therefore suffer fewer diseases. The axillary shoots, once removed, produce flowers that turn into fruit, thus offering larger harvests than with conventional training.

Tomato growing in cages - Photo: "Le sens de l'humus"

Tomatoes without stakes or pruning: independence, plain and simple

The principle could not be simpler and suits lazy gardeners perfectly since you simply plant the plant (preferably laid on its side, its favourite position) and let nature take its course!

Tomatoes naturally run along the soil. Only constraint: keep them away from moisture with a thick mulch made of dry materials (straw, dry grass) or with crates. Like squashes, your tomatoes will spread out… The advantage is obvious: you will have nothing to do except harvest. But beware, this method requires space and the absence of mice, voles and other burrowing rodents that would be delighted to sample them.

Note, incidentally, that it is perfectly possible to grow tomatoes in a traditional way without stakes. For this, choose determinate varieties, which form a bush more or less "self-supporting"… depending on wind strength. This is the case for the tomate buissonnante (… merciless logic) but also for dwarf and cherry varieties such as Totem or Gold nuggets.

And tomatoes without watering? A revolutionary alternative movement

Change is now… so let us start by turning off the taps! Because growing tomatoes without water is possible and Pascal Poot proves it, cultivating no fewer than 450 varieties, never watering them. But there is no magic powder here — just a long process that consists of "teaching" vegetables, over generations of seeds, to live frugally, with a guaranteed minimum of a simple dose of compost.

Here is the demonstration:

And you, are you more in favour of maintaining order and mandatory depilation of the axils (of the tomatoes… needless to say) or do you campaign for the mass confiscation of stakes and pruning shears?

Come on, I admit it, at home we are more the good-pupil type who lack consistency: we remove the suckers during the first weeks only to end up delightfully overtaken by an uncontrollable jungle that seems to proudly wave a sign: "Long live the free tomato"!

Growing your garden is a political act. I am not the one who says it, Pierre Rabhi is. And where politics is involved, it often implies doctrine, majority, opposition and protest movements. You must be wondering what got into me or what I put in my morning coffee! Rest assured, it is about growing, pruning […]

In a garden, aromatic plants are often gathered in the same spot. This is convenient for harvesting, but one can also view things from another perspective. Indeed, the flowers and foliage of some of these plants are so ornamental that they integrate perfectly into flower beds.

A wide range is available to us: mints, fennel, rosemary, orach, chives, hyssop, oregano, sages, thyme, lavenders, sorrel, etc. Obviously, this list is not exhaustive. I would like to introduce you to my favourite plants and my preferred combinations.

1) Purple: the embodiment of elegance

Purple foliage brings elegance and originality to the garden. Notably, we can distinguish:

The red orach (Atriplex hortensis rubra), perfect both in salads and in flower beds where it adds a lovely touch of whimsy. In the garden, it is ideal for creating dynamic colour reminders in the beds.

Remarkable foliage aromatic — A sublime combination: purple orach, dill, cosmos, and poppy - Source: Sarah Price Landscapes

Some varieties of sorrel are equally impressive, just look: Rumex ‘Purpurea’ or Purple Sorrel with reddish-purple foliage and 'Sanguineus’ with green leaves veined in red are particularly attractive. In my garden, the latter pairs wonderfully with Heuchera 'Purple Petticoats' and Ajuga reptans ‘Black Scallop’.

Medicinal sages exhibit various foliage variations. Salvia officinalis ‘Purpurescens’ stands out with its young shoots of a purplish hue. When paired with lavender and wormwood (‘Powis Castle’ for example), it creates a stunning effect.

2) Yellow and gold, perfect for breaking monotony

I really enjoy the vibrancy of yellow foliage. Some even flirt with fluorescence in spring, like that of the Golden Oregano or Origanum vulgare ‘Aureum’.

Note that although oregano is native to the Mediterranean basin, my Ardennes garden hosts both the standard species and the golden variety (in a clayey, poorly drained bed, and its hardiness somewhat challenged) and they thrive beautifully. They have even spread freely for years. Nature's ways are inscrutable! I would also add that the flowers are visited by many small butterflies.

In the same category, we find thyme, Thymus citriodorus ‘Aureus’. Its tiny golden leaves are a delight, complemented by a lovely lemony fragrance.

3) Bright variegateds

Among those that play the variegated card, we note the beautiful presence of Origanum vulgare ‘County Cream’ and Thymus microphylla ‘Variegata’ with cream-edged foliage.

Thymus microphylla ‘Variegata’ and its charming foliage, delicately marginate with cream

If you prefer yellow, you will be charmed by Thymus citriodorus ‘Variegated’, a variety of lemon thyme with small leaves, as well as by certain sages such as ‘Icterina’ with green leaves edged and variegated in yellow. Want more colour and contrast? Turn to Sage ‘Tricolor’ with foliage marginate in green, pink, and white, or to Mentha suaveolens ‘Variegata’ with beautiful white variegations on a green background.

I know, mints have a bad reputation, and planting them in a flower bed might seem risky. They are known to be invasive, but they are merely wanderers. Equipped with their little bundles, they roam between plants, and young shoots emerge where there is space. In other words, if they have competition, they will be more docile. The choice is vast for this family, especially regarding the scents emanating from the leaves: green mint, Moroccan, peppermint, chocolate, bergamot, crisped, lemon... Don't deprive yourself!

In the garden, rose and mint get along well

4) The greys, perfect for highlighting other plants

Santolines (Santolina chamaecyparissus) are distinguished by their fineness and the beautiful silver colour of their foliage. The variety ‘Edward Bowles’ offers an elegant grey-green combination and cream-white flowers that pair wonderfully with nepeta, stipa, white yarrow, and some Allium sphaerocephalon. Santoline flowers are also very melliferous. The tufts can be easily pruned into balls, providing structure in the garden.

5) Graphics for a touch of lightness

In life as in flower beds, we always need a bit of lightness. The green fennel (Foeniculum vulgare) or the bronze variety (Foeniculum vulgare ‘Giant Bronze’) form beautiful "mists". Their airy appearance is perfect for lightening a generous floral composition. Here, accompanied by the rose ‘Prieuré de Saint-Côme’, the dahlia ‘Twinings after Eight’, and Tagetes minuta.

Why not try it with Lysimachia purpurea ‘Beaujolais’ and the purple orach mentioned earlier: the union is divine as well.

Note that you will still need to choose them carefully based on the conditions you can offer them. It is evident that thyme, in clayey and poorly drained soil, will not last long, just as chives and parsley will struggle to thrive in dry soil. Pay attention to exposure as well! Finally, be aware that some of these aromatics are annuals but self-seed like orach, for example.

And you, do you grow any of these beautiful aromatics with atypical foliage or unique colourful inflorescences? Which are your favourites?

In a garden, aromatic plants are often gathered in the same spot. This is convenient for harvesting, but one can also view things from another perspective. Indeed, the flowers and foliage of some of these plants are so ornamental that they integrate perfectly into flower beds. A wide range is available to us: mints, fennel, […]

Installing a balcony vegetable garden and growing vegetables and herbs, even in town, is perfectly possible. In previous articles, we saw that there are many solutions for urban gardening even without a garden: grow bags, and also raised beds.

Still, you can’t make the walls any bigger! What other option is there? Choose vegetables and varieties suited to small spaces. These compact or dwarf vegetable plants are often productive. They yield full-size or small-scale vegetables, which is perfect when you don’t need to feed a large family or when you grow as much for enjoyment as for flavour!

To prevent you from restricting yourself to radishes, we have prepared on the site a wide selection of vegetables perfectly suited to small spaces and also ideal for mini vegetable gardens (including square beds); here is a sample:

1) Salads

Almost all lettuces can be grown in pots, but admit that a large heading lettuce, for example, takes up a lot of room. That’s why we recommend cut-and-come-again lettuces and mescluns. However, if you insist on harvesting neat heading lettuces, I recommend:

Tom Thumb butterhead lettuce: a butterhead type that forms small heads about 15 cm across.
Little Gem lettuce, the romaine cousin, produces small tender-headed lettuces with excellent flavour.

2) Tomatoes

Cherry tomato is queen of the balcony. If you have a large balcony, you can grow any variety. Otherwise, to avoid the plant taking over the space with its generosity, choose varieties that are productive but of moderate vigour. Some trailing types can even be grown in hanging pots.

Cherry tomatoes Balconi Red and Balconi Yellow are two F1 hybrids. They produce small ruby-red and golden-yellow fruits about 3 cm in diameter. Their advantage is an ultra-compact habit, with bushy plants that only reach about 30 cm high and as wide.
Pendulina Red and Pendulina Yellow are similar. From Sweden, they are well suited to hanging pots and will form cascades of pretty cherry fruits weighing 15–30 g, red or yellow depending on the variety.

3) Courgettes

Non-vining courgettes are also available in miniature forms and are easy to grow, such as:

Courgette 'Patio Star' F1. Ideal for pots, it forms plants about 45 cm high and 60 cm wide and yields delicious small cylindrical dark-green fruits.
Round 'Eight Ball' courgette stands out for its round fruits: excellent quality and harvestable once about 5 cm in diameter. This variety is repeat-bearing and produces over a long period.

4) Peppers and chillies

Still in the "sun veg" category, peppers and chillies love sunny small spaces. Among miniature varieties, you will probably fall for:

the Mini Chocolate Bell pepper: productive, producing small red-brown fruits 3–5 cm across.

As for chillies, I invite you to discover:

Red Cherry chilli (small) produces round fruits the size of a cherry tomato, bright red. Beware, it is very hot!

Aubergine Pusa Purple Cluster - Carrot Marché de Paris - Mini Chocolate Bell pepper (Photos: Ferme de Sainte Marthe) - Tomato Balconi Red and Courgette Eight Ball

Vegetables suited to container growing, for balcony vegetable garden — Aubergine Pusa Purple Cluster - Carrot Marché de Paris - Mini Chocolate Bell pepper (Photos: Ferme de Sainte Marthe) - Tomato Balconi Red and Courgette Eight Ball

5) Aubergines

Aubergines love heat and will be perfectly happy on a balcony or terrace sheltered from draughts. Lack of space is a great opportunity to discover surprising varieties.

'Patio Baby' aubergine is a very early and productive variety that produces compact plants with small fruits, ideal for container growing or confined spaces. Plant in April–May for harvest from July to October.
Pusa Purple Cluster aubergine has much to recommend it: originating from India, it is productive and forms clusters of small purple fruits on plants of normal size, very decorative and tasty.
White Round Egg aubergine is a dwarf variety, producing pretty white, round fruits the size of an egg on plants about 30 cm high.
If you prefer classic types, the Ophelia aubergine is perfect: the plant stays under 35 cm and its dark-purple fruits reach about the size of a golf ball.

6) Carrots

Growing carrots on a balcony is not difficult, but you must choose a container deep enough for root development. Half-long carrots (such as Carotte de Luc) are therefore well suited, but in pots or standard window boxes, peg-top varieties give the best results. I particularly recommend:

Carrot 'Marché de Paris': an early variety with round, reddish-orange roots, tender and flavoursome. These small carrots are great glazed or as a snack.

7) Cucumbers

Cucumbers are often seen as space-hungry, but they trellis easily. In small gardens or containers, snack-type cucumbers such as 'Rocky', 'Broumana F1' or 'Iznik F1' are popular. They are just as crisp as standard types, but fruit size does not exceed 15 cm.

8) Beans, peas, broad beans

Dwarf beans and dwarf peas are not necessarily the best answer to limited space… Prefer pole varieties of beans and peas that use vertical space by climbing trellises. Plants occupy less ground area and provide abundant harvests. If you like broad beans, I especially recommend the variety Robin Hood, which yields nice short pods with green seeds on plants about 30 cm high.

The list is not exhaustive and for other vegetables, such as cabbages, leeks, sweetcorn... please consult our collection of balcony vegetables on our site.

To conclude, allow me to remind you of key success factors for growing beautiful vegetables on a balcony or terrace:

use quality potting compost (avoid the cheapest bags that dry out very quickly)
remember to fertilise regularly
monitor watering, as container-grown crops are more vulnerable to dry spells.

Installing a balcony vegetable garden and growing vegetables and herbs, even in town, is perfectly possible. In previous articles, we saw that there are many solutions for urban gardening even without a garden: grow bags, and also raised beds. Still, you can’t make the walls any bigger! What other option is there? Choose vegetables and […]

Do you know cut-and-come-again salads? Among the many types of salads, heading varieties appeal to many gardeners, both for their generous appearance, the crunch or the thickness of their leaves. But once harvested, they must be sown again... unlike the one I'm going to talk about today!

Cut-and-come-again salads are largely represented by lettuces, in particular Oak Leaf, but also by the different varieties that make up mescluns. This type of salad does not form a head: its leaves, smooth or curled, fairly thin, are arranged in rosettes, more or less compact. Although visually a little less attractive (perhaps…), they offer many advantages and deserve a place in the vegetable garden.

Cut-and-come-again salads grow… and regrow quickly

As their name suggests, these salads are cut. They are harvested without pulling up the root but simply by cutting the leaves. What makes them particularly interesting (and productive) is that they regrow, and quickly. Not indefinitely, of course, but two or three times at least. Harvest as needed, from the young-leaf stage or later, at maturity.

They can be sown almost all year round!

These small salads are easy to grow and can be sown almost all year round: generally under cover from October to February and outdoors from March to September.

Sow them as you prefer: in plug plants or in a pot for lettuces (which will help prevent them being eaten by slugs and snails) or directly in open ground, in rows or broadcast, especially for mescluns.

Greens to grow anywhere: in the vegetable garden or in pots

Less bulky than heading lettuces or heading chicories, cut-and-come-again salads also have the advantage of being able to be grown almost anywhere. They can be planted on their own, in a space dedicated to the vegetable garden, or interplanted between the rows of other vegetables (they are generally good neighbours), which will shade them in summer.

They are perfect for anyone with limited space in the garden or no garden at all! They take up little room in a raised bed and can even be grown indoors in winter then on a balcony or windowsill, in pots, in planters and even in a vertical garden.

En jardinière ou sous châssis, en hiver : les salades à couper sont faciles à cultiver

Cut-and-come-again salads: a wide selection

With green, blonde or purple leaves, smooth or curly, these salads come in a wide range of colour, texture and flavour. Simply put, there's something for everyone! Among the best-known varieties are lettuces, represented by Oak Leaf, the Salad Bowl (red or green) and the superb Lollo Bionda and Lollo Rossa.

Laitues à couper : Feuille de Chêne blonde - Lollo Rossa - Red Salad Bowl

If you particularly enjoy variety and the convenience of seed mixes, go for mescluns. As well as being "all‑in‑one", they offer often bold flavours that are perfect for enhancing summer dishes.

Among my favourites are:

	Organic Niçoise mesclun (Ferme de Sainte Marthe). Composed of lettuces, chicory, spinach, rocket and chervil (among others!), it's a rich mix that allows you to make the traditional Provençal mesclun. Presented as a seed tape, it is very quick to sow and largely removes the chore of thinning. Sowing: March to July
	"Speedy Mix" blend (Thompson & Morgan) offers, in a single packet, a fine assortment that grows at speed. It is composed of rocket, watercress and oriental mustard and delivers a pleasantly piquant flavour. Sowing: March to September.
	The assortment "The Good Life Mix" (Thompson & Morgan) is perfect for growing under an unheated shelter in late autumn and winter. It includes rather rare varieties (Komatsuna, Mizuna, mustard, Pak choi), delicious and ideal for harvesting young shoots. Sowing: March to October

And you, do you grow these cut-and-come-again salads in your vegetable garden? Which are your favourite varieties?

Do you know cut-and-come-again salads? Among the many types of salads, heading varieties appeal to many gardeners, both for their generous appearance, the crunch or the thickness of their leaves. But once harvested, they must be sown again… unlike the one I’m going to talk about today! Cut-and-come-again salads are largely represented by lettuces, in […]

Whether you are a beginner or experienced gardener, you cannot have failed to hear about the famous "Saints de Glace". When will they occur? Should you follow folk sayings and wait for them to pass before starting your vegetable garden and putting out planters? What should you fear during this period? We tell you everything!

You can also find this article in our podcast about the Saints de Glace :

What are the Saints de Glace?

The "Saints de Glace" refer to a period in May traditionally associated with the lune rousse, which occurs after Easter. In practice, it is a few rather tricky days in the garden during which late frosts can occur.

When are they? Dates of the Saints de Glace

There is no need to look for when the Saints de Glace will occur this year! They fall on the same dates every year: 11, 12 and 13 May. These three dates correspond respectively, in the old calendar, to Saint Mamert, Saint Pancrace and Saint Servais. In the cooler regions, one more companion is added: Saint Urbain, celebrated on 25 May.

Can you plant before the Saints de Glace or should you wait?

Of course, it is possible to plant all frost-resistant plants before this period: trees, shrubs and hardy perennials.

However, avoid planting frost-tender annual flowers (petunias, impatiens...) and all tender vegetables such as tomatoes, aubergines, courgettes and peppers. Another factor to take into account is, of course, the region where your garden is located. Risks of late frost are much lower in Nice than in Strasbourg, where you'll need to wait until the end of May to be completely out of the danger zone.

That said, in practice, statistically the risk of frost does not seem that high.

So, if you've been gardening in a T-shirt for 10 days and are eager to start your vegetable garden, nothing prevents you from planting a few tomato plants. Keep an eye on the weather forecast, but also on the sky because cloudless nights are conducive to frost. Make sure you have something to protect your seedlings and plants from the cold… just in case… and everything should be fine!

However, if you're the anxious, not-very-adventurous or absent-minded gardener: be patient! After all, everything in its own time… vegetables planted later, but into well-warmed soil, at the end of May or start of June will quickly catch up with those planted much earlier.

Whether you are a beginner or experienced gardener, you cannot have failed to hear about the famous “Saints de Glace”. When will they occur? Should you follow folk sayings and wait for them to pass before starting your vegetable garden and putting out planters? What should you fear during this period? We tell you everything! […]

Radishes are often the first vegetables grown in the kitchen garden: early in the season, but also by beginner gardeners, as they are reputedly easy. We all know it, perhaps from sowing it as early as primary school, the famous 18-day radish… but far less the other varieties.

As we enter the peak season for sowing radishes, I invite you today to explore the range of possibilities offered by this irresistibly crisp little vegetable, which can be sown almost year round!

Forcing radishes

Forcing radishes are very early. They can be sown from January to February under protection (cold frame, frame or tunnel) or a little later, outdoors in the kitchen garden. Quick to mature, they grow quickly and brighten plates by Easter.

The Fluo F1 radish: a F1 hybrid variety that stands out for its precocity. This radish yields semi-long roots, red with white tips. Sowing: from December to April
The Gaudry 2 radish: very early, it produces beautiful round roots, bright pink with white tips. Sowing: from January under cover to September.
The scarlet-round forcing radish : it grows quickly and produces pretty spherical roots, entirely red, with white, crisp flesh. Sowing: March to September

Gaudry 2 radish - La Ferme de Sainte-Marthe

Radishes all year round

The label "all year round" might suggest a certain blandness. It is far from it! If all these varieties share the flexibility of their broad sowing window (generally from mid-March to mid-September), they can be classic but also display original colours.

The Flamboyant radish is one of the most popular varieties. Fast-growing, it yields cylindrical semi-long roots, red with a white tip. It is not spicy and stores very well. Sowing from March to August.
The National 2 radish, semi-early, yields pretty pink roots with white tips. We like its pleasant flavour, a little peppery. Sowing from March to October.
The Amethyst radish is a round radish distinguished by its colour: a pretty violet with metallic reflections. Very striking on the plate, it also offers a pleasant flavour and will only become sharp if you forget it in the garden. Sowing from March to August.
The Pernot clair radish is versatile; it can be sown very early and offers elongated roots, bright red with white tips. Sowing from March to September.

Amethyst and Pernot Clair radishes

Summer radishes and daikon radish

The Ice Candle radish offers a long white root, almost translucent, shaped like a stalactite. Its crisp flesh is fine and offers a slightly biting flavour. Sowing: March–April to November.
The Zlata daikon radish comes from Czechoslovakia. Round, it wears a yellow skin that covers white flesh with an original taste, a little lemony, peppery. It does not hollow and resists bolting. Sowing: March to August.
The Giant scarlet round radish from Würzburg forms very large round roots. Its flavour remains mild. Sowing: April to August.

Ice Candle radish

What a choice, isn’t it? If you’re not sure how to decide, don’t hesitate to opt for seed mixes… It’s an economical and practical option when you enjoy growing several varieties in a small kitchen garden.

Finally, although radish sowing is reputedly easy (our tips: "Sowing radishes"), it can, for the less deft, lead to a tedious thinning job. To avoid this, think of seed tapes: simple and easy, they will save you a lot of time!

Radishes are often the first vegetables grown in the kitchen garden: early in the season, but also by beginner gardeners, as they are reputedly easy. We all know it, perhaps from sowing it as early as primary school, the famous 18-day radish… but far less the other varieties. As we enter the peak season for […]

April is the ideal month to prepare for autumn! Because now is the time to sow squashes and pumpkins. Choose potimarrons Huchi Kuri, squashes Butternut and Rouge vif d’Étampes: their flavoursome, sweet flesh will give you the best soups, gratins, purées and pies.

Atlantic Giant pumpkin: a competitive variety!

But if you have children (or a childlike soul and neighbours to impress), get ready for Halloween by planting Jack O Lantern, or better still, grow giant pumpkins: the pumpkins Atlantic Giant.

Pumpkin and squashes for Halloween or competitions

Jack O'Lantern and Atlantic Giant squash

It is from these particular seeds — not genetically modified but carefully selected over the years — that you can obtain large, very large pumpkins.

For decades Americans broke all the records. But currently a young Belgian grower, Matthias Willemijns, is world champion with a pumpkin weighing 1,190.5 kg. That is the weight of ten baby elephants. Or of a hippopotamus. Or, if it makes it clearer, of a Peugeot 206.

Growing giant squashes: an expensive but lucrative sport!

In the USA, growing such “monsters” is almost a sport, which can cost a lot of money (fertilisers, nutrients, plant protection products, greenhouses, irrigation and heating systems at the start and end of the season, shading in summer, etc.) but which can also pay off: major competitions offer significant prizes of up to several tens of thousands of dollars. Champion pumpkin seeds can also sell for around $20 to $50 each, even more. At specialised auctions, a seed was recently sold for the modest sum of... $800! Given that a pumpkin can contain 300 to 600 seeds, that’s a business that can become very interesting…

Giant pumpkins are often then carved into monstrous lanterns for Halloween.

How to grow a record-breaking pumpkin?

Cultivation of Atlantic Giant is exactly the same as for ordinary squashes or pumpkins: sow indoors in small clumps in mid-April, and plant out in the vegetable plot from mid- to late May, when all risk of frost has passed.

Provided you manure the soil very heavily where you plant it, ensure regular watering and keep only ONE fruit per plant, you can quite easily reach a weight of 100 to 200 kg.

And afterwards, what do you do with it?

I grew Atlantic Giants for a few years. The biggest weighed 212 kg!

Of course, ideally you need strong friends and neighbours to move the pumpkin out of the vegetable plot, and then to enjoy soup, gratin, flan, ice cream, purée and pumpkin pie. Even if this variety is not the best from a flavour point of view, it can still provide a substantial soup base for a school fête, a scout camp or a soup kitchen evening. Guaranteed effect if you celebrate your children’s birthday in autumn, or if you display the monster in front of your house: passers-by coming to have their photo taken beside the squash are worth their weight in gold!

So, for a few years, at the very beginning of creating the garden, we grew giant pumpkins. Beside them, my little boy looked tiny.

That is how I named my garden “Pumpkins and Elf”.

April is the ideal month to prepare for autumn! Because now is the time to sow squashes and pumpkins. Choose potimarrons Huchi Kuri, squashes Butternut and Rouge vif d’Étampes: their flavoursome, sweet flesh will give you the best soups, gratins, purées and pies. Atlantic Giant pumpkin: a competitive variety! But if you have children (or […]

Promesse de Fleurs offers no less than 2000 varieties of vegetable seeds: classic seeds, organic seeds certified AB, as well as F1 hybrid varieties (and even organic F1 hybrids!). With such a wide range of options, what should you choose?

To help you, today I propose to clarify these different types of seeds.

What is an organic seed?

What differentiates an organic seed from a conventional seed is the cultivation method of the seed-bearing plant. Indeed, organic seeds or "AB" are derived from plants grown without phytosanitary products (insecticides, synthetic herbicides, etc.). These seeds also do not undergo any treatment after harvest. They carry the AB label for Organic Agriculture and are certified by Ecocert, an independent control and certification body.

Why buying organic seeds?

Are vegetables from organic seeds better for health?

On a garden scale, no, vegetables from organic seeds are not necessarily better because it is your way of managing your garden that will determine whether you have good vegetables or any pesticide residues in your harvests. However, on a global level, yes, because by buying organic seeds, you support the ecological practices of organic farming and thus protect the environment… since your supplier does not pollute.

The specific case of untreated seeds

Untreated seeds or "NT" are derived from plants grown conventionally; they are not organic: during cultivation, the use of phytosanitary products is permitted. What differentiates them is that they do not undergo any treatment after harvest. For your information, these seeds are allowed in organic market gardening when organic seeds are out of stock.

organic seeds: Sainte Marthe Farm, Vilmorin, Sluisgarden

What is an F1 hybrid seed? Should we be wary of them?

What is an F1 hybrid?

F1 hybrid varieties are the result of crossing selected parent plants to combine their qualities. This results in varieties that are often earlier, more productive, and resistant to certain diseases. The productions are also more homogeneous, the vegetables are better sized and have better shelf life. The resulting plants can also be more compact and suitable for small spaces. As for taste, opinions vary: some find them generally bland, while others appreciate their flavour. But again, the way you cultivate the vegetables will certainly influence this.

Be aware that seed producers carry out selection and crossing work to regularly offer new varieties. These so-called improved varieties are not necessarily F1 hybrids!

What is the problem with F1 seeds?

The main problem with F1 hybrid seeds is that it is impossible to save seeds from them. Their qualities do not pass on to the next generation. You will therefore have to buy them again. For the amateur gardener, even if the seeds are more expensive, it is an investment quickly recouped by the harvests… but it is a bit more complicated for market gardeners and farmers who become dependent on seed producers.

Stonehead Cabbage, Previa Tomato, and Bonica Aubergine: all productive, resistant, and reliable F1 hybrids.

And what about classic seeds?

Unlike organic seeds, classic seeds are cultivated conventionally. It is very rare for ranges intended for individuals, but sometimes seeds may have undergone treatment after harvest to eliminate any risk of mould and remove potential pests. If this is the case, the treatment will be mentioned on the packet.

By the way, coated seeds are not treated but simply covered with a natural substance (based on clay) that makes them much easier to sow and reduces the chore of thinning.

Organic or classic seeds… what about heirloom varieties?

Producers of organic seeds are known for maintaining heirloom varieties, selecting them to preserve their characteristics. Thus, it is more likely that you will find some rare gems, once cultivated in your region or by your grandfather, in organic. However, this is not a monopoly; traditional seed producers also offer heirloom vegetables, regional varieties known as "terroir" varieties.

heirloom varieties Viroflay Giant Spinach, Violet Artichoke from Provence, and Walloon Endive: heirloom or regional varieties offered in organic and classic seeds.

No F1 in an organic garden?

To conclude, and at the risk of sparking some debates, in my garden, Previa tomatoes sit alongside Black Crimea, Gynial cucumbers with English long greens... and I’m not even mentioning colourful sunflowers! Why? Because I believe that in an organic garden, F1 hybrids, AB seeds, and classic seeds can coexist perfectly without being inconsistent. And it’s not even contradictory; there are organic F1 varieties, such as Brussels sprout Igor, for example.

Why? Because I am pragmatic: the reliability and resistance of F1 hybrids allow for cultivation without any treatment (not even a little Bordeaux mixture spray, that’s not organic, is it?) and to achieve, almost certainly, abundant harvests. This assurance allows for trying out older, tastier varieties without fear, even though their results can be a bit more uncertain. On the other hand, what matters most is how you cultivate the vegetables: healthy soil, compost, good mulching, nothing simpler to grow your vegetables naturally!

What about you? Do you prefer classic seeds, certified AB, or are you more into F1?

Promesse de Fleurs offers no less than 2000 varieties of vegetable seeds: classic seeds, organic seeds certified AB, as well as F1 hybrid varieties (and even organic F1 hybrids!). With such a wide range of options, what should you choose? To help you, today I propose to clarify these different types of seeds. What is an […]

Tomato is a fruit-vegetable offering many varieties, sometimes highly original. Old or more recently bred, almost all varieties have distinct personalities well worth exploring. So, to impress friends or simply for the pleasure of tasting new types, here is a small selection of curious, decorative and flavoursome tomatoes:

1) Tomato ‘Indigo Rose’

'Indigo Rose' is an American variety developed by Oregon State University. A cocktail-type, its fruits wear a superb midnight-blue, almost black coat, ripening through to reddish-brown. It attracts curiosity both on the plant and on the plate. Its flavour is not unforgettable but is quite acceptable and, above all, it is known for its antioxidant content.

2) Tomato ‘Jack White’

'Jack White' is almost the opposite of Indigo Rose: its large creamy-white fruits, round and ribbed, can weigh up to 1 kg. They contain a Beefsteak-type flesh of excellent eating quality. Connoisseurs will appreciate the complexity of its taste, a mix of acidity and sweetness. Perfect in a colourful salad (with 'Black from Crimea' for a Yin Yang effect?) but also good for stuffing.

Indigo Rose and Jack White tomatoes - Photo: La Ferme de Sainte Marthe

3) Tomato ‘Lemon Tree’ (lemon tomato)

Yellow tomatoes are not unheard of… What is more unusual is when they take on the look of a lemon, as is the case with this old Russian variety. Productive, this tomato produces clusters of fruits 6–8 cm long. Its taste is, unsurprisingly, slightly tangy, very pleasant in a summer salad.

4) Tomato ‘Elberta Peach’

In a similar vein, 'Elberta Peach' stands out for the downy appearance of its superb foliage and the velvety texture of its fruits. Yes, a hairy tomato does exist! Its fruits are large for a cocktail-type. Colour, red striped with yellow, can be quite variable. It develops a mild flavour and has a fairly firm flesh.

Lemon Tree and Elberta Peach tomatoes - Photos: La Ferme de Sainte Marthe

5) Tomato ‘Green Doctor's Frosted’

Here is another American variety but this time of the cherry type! Very productive, it produces pretty small green fruits, slightly translucent, that have much to offer: firm texture, crisp bite and a very sweet juicy interior.

6) Yellow pear tomato or ‘Yellow Pearshaped’

This cherry (well, pear) tomato is probably the cutest in the selection! It can be grown in a pot and produces many small yellow, pear-shaped fruits with a sweet flavour. Very decorative, it is particularly popular with children who will enjoy growing it.

Cherry tomatoes: Green Doctor's Frosted and Yellow Pear - Photos: La Ferme de Sainte Marthe

7) Tomato ‘Tlacolula Pink’

This late Mexican variety is notable for its large, dark-pink, pear-shaped fruits. They can even "fuse" to form very large, curious fruits. When sliced they reveal a superb beefsteak-type flesh, easy to cook with, ideal for stuffing or making delicious purées, gazpachos or juices.

8) Tomato ‘Aunt Ruby's German Green’

One of the largest green tomatoes and we love it! Its origin is a little uncertain: native to the United States or perhaps brought to the US by German immigrants? In any case, it is a superb variety that can produce fruits weighing up to 500 g. Its originality? Superb green flesh covered by an emerald skin tinged with pink at the shoulders! Its flavour is very well balanced: sweet with a slight acidity.

Tlacolula Pink and Aunt Ruby's German Green tomatoes - Photos: La Ferme de Sainte Marthe

9) Tomato ‘Green Sausage’

Forget rubbery party sausages: try green sausages instead! Its fruits, cylindrical and about 8 cm long, have an attractive mottled yellow and green skin. Their taste is fruity, slightly tangy, also very suitable for sauces and purées. As it is a dwarf tomato, it requires no pruning and grows very well in a pot on a terrace or balcony! Vegetarian friends will thank you…

10) Tomato ‘Voyage’

And because it’s good to keep the best for last, allow me to present 'Voyage' or “travellers'” tomato. An old variety that is genuinely surprising. Indeed, at first glance its somewhat misshapen fruits make you think of a well-travelled tomato! Averaging 100 g in weight, it appears to be an agglomeration of small fruits. Curious but productive… and tasty, revealing a juicy, sweet flesh.

Green Sausage and Voyage tomatoes - Photos: La Ferme de Sainte Marthe

We are right in the middle of sowing season... Which varieties have you chosen for your vegetable patch this year?

Aubergine, pepper and chilli share a strong taste for heat. That's why their sowing is done indoors, from February if you plan to grow them under glass and in March for outdoor cultivation in the vegetable garden.

How to succeed with your sowings and obtain healthy young plants?

This is a sowing sometimes feared by beginner gardeners because seeds need heat to germinate and are somewhat susceptible to damping off. However, if you follow a few simple rules, anyone can succeed.

Sowing in a mini‑greenhouse or propagator

The classic method is to sow seeds in trays filled with a good seed compost. Sow seeds about 2 centimetres apart then cover them with a few millimetres of sieved compost. Water very gently, using a spray bottle… as a fine mist so as not to displace the seeds. To prevent damping off, then cover with a very fine layer of powdered charcoal.

The optimal germination temperature for these three vegetables is between 20 and 25 °C. Unless you live in an overheated flat, you will need to find the ideal spot. For these sowings, heated propagators (Garland, for example) are very handy but you can also use the top of or a place near a radiator. Personally, I put the trays on top of our masonry stove until germination.

Place sowing in warmth: in a propagator (Photo: Garland) or, as with me, on top of a soapstone stove

With chillies, be careful when handling the seeds and wash your hands thoroughly afterwards: contact with the eyes may cause painful irritation.

The "Scottex" method, have you heard of it?

There has been quite a lot of talk in recent years about the "Scottex" method… which gets its name not from some obscure botanist but from a brand of kitchen roll! This sowing technique is a little like germination tests. It involves placing the seeds on a piece of absorbent paper, previously moistened (with hot water, if you like), and enclosing them in a glass jar or a plastic tray. The advantage of this method lies in the speed of germination: the time spent at heat is therefore shorter. Having tried the method one year, I found it effective but… you mustn't have sausage fingers when it comes to'placing germinated seeds into pots: the operation requires precision and a gentle touch!

The "Scottex" method

From potting on to planting out in the vegetable garden: precautions to take

Once young plants are well developed (at least two true leaves but don't wait too long), you can prick them out into pots. They still need warmth (normal room temperature is sufficient) but also light, otherwise they will become leggy. Place them on the windowsill and wait… at least until after the last frosts (usually after 15 May) before planting out in the garden. Initially, if you live in a rather cool area, provide light protection against night‑time cold.

Which varieties to choose?

There are many varieties of chillies, peppers and aubergines… For chillies, choosing them according to their heat level will save you from growing something your palate couldn't handle. And for aubergines, if your climate isn't ideal for growing them, opt for sturdy F1s such as 'Bonica' (as seeds or as grafted plants), early and easy to succeed with.

For my part, here is my small selection for this year :

The chilli 'Penis', a new arrival in our collection… which I must test, if only to see my neighbours' faces (and a little that of my mother‑in‑law... the gardener is mischievous)!
The pepper 'Purple Bell', very unusual, which will complement my 'Californian Wonder'
The aubergine 'Rotonda Bianca Sfumata di Rosa' and the aubergine 'Ronde à œuf', alongside the traditional 'de Barbentane'.

And you, have you started sowing for the vegetable garden? Any tips to share?

Aubergine, pepper and chilli share a strong taste for heat. That’s why their sowing is done indoors, from February if you plan to grow them under glass and in March for outdoor cultivation in the vegetable garden. How to succeed with your sowings and obtain healthy young plants? This is a sowing sometimes feared by […]

It's soon time for the first sowings in the vegetable garden. And in this year, rich in weather surprises, it is more than wise to protect them from the cold. Indeed, to harvest early peas, salads, carrots, and lovely radishes, you must not delay in sowing them. But, as you know, until the Ice Saints, frost can still bite, and cruelly! Here are all the solutions available to you to prevent the cold from annihilating all your hopes.

1) Growth or winter fleece

Fleeces come in different thicknesses. The heavier ones (60 g or even 90 g per m²) are mainly used in market gardening, in areas with very cold winters. For the amateur gardener, P17 (17 grams per m²), known as growth fleece, and P30, called winter fleece, are commonly found. The thermal protection varies, as you will have understood, depending on this weight. Their main action is to break the wind and attenuate the effects of heavy rain or hail. Being water-permeable and breathable, they help create a microclimate favourable to plant growth. However, they do not provide complete protection against frost, especially if it is severe. These fleeces are reusable, provided you choose good quality ones and take care of them!

The advantage of fleeces is their great ease of installation: simply cover the young sowings and hold them in place with, as you prefer, large stones, bags filled with sand, wooden boards…

2) Mini tunnels with forcing films or rigid ones

Alongside growth fleeces, there are forcing films. Made of plastic, varying in thickness, perforated or not, they help accelerate plant growth by creating not just a microclimate, but rather a greenhouse effect. They are generally placed on hoops to form small tunnels (known as “Nantes tunnels” or “caterpillars”). If you install them correctly, using proper metal market gardening hoops and string, you can easily lift the sides for ventilation and possible watering. As with fleeces, invest in quality films to use them for many years!

Another solution is to use rigid mini tunnels. They are well designed and some models even have a removable hatch on top for watering. Quick to set up, they are really practical… but a bit pricey.

protection of the vegetable garden against the cold

Different ways to protect your crops: rigid tunnel and bell (Photo: Garantia) and forcing fleece (Direct-Filet)

3) The cold frame

Generally made of a wooden box covered with a glass (or polycarbonate) pane, the cold frame is mainly intended for early sowings, which will be transplanted into the vegetable garden once spring is well established. However, nothing prevents you from growing your first radishes or salads in it. But be careful, as with tunnels, you will need to think about ventilating or even fully opening the frames on the first nice days!

4) Other types of protection: bells, mulching, and recycling!

The glass bells, so lovely, are now rare in vegetable gardens… and when found in stores, they are also very expensive. They have been replaced by plastic models which, for the best ones, have ventilation. They are quite suitable for protecting young plants, but not really for sowings. And as with frames, beware of overheating!

The protective effect of mulching is often underestimated. However, it exists, but it is more intended to shelter young plants rather than sowings. Dead leaves and straw spread in a thick layer often help prevent the effects of frost.

Finally, you can improvise many shelters with available materials: upturned crates, dressed or not with fleece and placed over the sowings at night, small tipis made of twigs… and if you use insect-proof fleeces in summer, know that they also provide good protection against wind in early spring! But, do not forget to remove them for vegetables whose flowers need to be pollinated to produce: no insects = no vegetables!

It’s soon time for the first sowings in the vegetable garden. And in this year, rich in weather surprises, it is more than wise to protect them from the cold. Indeed, to harvest early peas, salads, carrots, and lovely radishes, you must not delay in sowing them. But, as you know, until the Ice Saints, […]

Kiwis grow very well in Brittany. Did you know? Last week I received a whole crate of them! Since I readily give away my surplus summer harvest, I suppose it's the boomerang effect…

Meanwhile, it's proof that Actinidia does not necessarily come from New Zealand and that it grows very well in our climates. But, having spent part of my Sunday peeling them to make jam, you'll understand that today I'm talking about another kind of kiwi: Kiwaï.

What is Kiwaï?

Kiwaï (Actinidia arguta) or "Siberian kiwi" is a miniature kiwi species that has the undeniable advantage of being eaten with the skin. Admittedly, the fruits are smaller but hairless. Their smooth skin conceals flesh that is just as sweet and fragrant as that of the common kiwi. And because they are just as productive (an adult plant can yield nearly 100 kg of fruit) as their larger cousin Actinidia deliciosa, you only need to eat several to obtain an equivalent or even higher dose of vitamin C.

Another advantage of Kiwaï: no confusion possible (Image Pinterest)

How to grow Kiwaï?

Kiwaï is grown exactly like kiwi (see our care sheet): a voluble climbing plant, its long lianas must be trained on a sturdy support. Like kiwi, it is dioecious: female varieties must be accompanied by a male variety. But there are self-fertile varieties. They are a little less productive but have the advantage of being planted alone. Where Kiwaï becomes even more interesting is its extreme hardiness. Native to forests of China, Japan and Russia, it will tolerate temperatures around -20°C, even -25°C (remember… Siberia!), so it can be planted almost anywhere, even in regions with severe winters.

Kiwaï fruit is harvested in late summer to early autumn, earlier than that of common kiwis, and keeps very well when refrigerated.

Male Kiwaï flowers and fruits of Kiwaï 'Ambroisia' - Photos Cerdys SA

Varieties

'Ambrosia': a female variety that produces small green fruits speckled with red
'Ken's Red': a Kiwaï with red skin and purplish flesh, delightfully tangy
'Nostino': a male variety that acts as pollinator. It produces flowers but no fruit. Its presence is essential to obtain fruiting of female plants (allow at least one male for 5–6 female plants).
'Issai': self-fertile, it produces pretty small green fruits on its own in late summer.

Convinced? Maybe you've already planted this very distinctive actinidia in your garden, do not hesitate to tell us about it!

Kiwis grow very well in Brittany. Did you know? Last week I received a whole crate of them! Since I readily give away my surplus summer harvest, I suppose it’s the boomerang effect… Meanwhile, it’s proof that Actinidia does not necessarily come from New Zealand and that it grows very well in our climates. But, […]

February marks return to the vegetable patch. January's frost, combined with the marked thaw of recent days, has given the soil an ideal texture. Pure bliss! It almost feels like spring and first plantings can finally begin. For us, garlic, onion and shallot lead the way… planting them is so easy you simply choose varieties!

Garlic, onion and shallot are planted in February

Garlic, onion, shallot

Garlic, onion, shallot: choose the right variety before ordering

These three bulb vegetables, all members of the Allium family, come in a very large number of varieties. Of various colours and shapes, they also differ in their planting period: autumn or spring. Choice is mainly based on this criterion.

So let's look at varieties that can be planted from today in mild climates and, elsewhere, up to March/April.

Garlic

In spring, favour pink garlic. Said to be slightly less productive than autumn varieties, it has the advantage of keeping longer. Flavor, Printanor, Gayant, Arno … all these varieties keep well, even very well!

Alongside common garlic (Allium sativum), mention also a very interesting perennial or "perpetual" species that establishes itself once and for all, or almost: bear's garlic (Allium ursinum). It grows in shade or partial shade and naturalises easily where conditions suit. It bears large narrow leaves and, from April to June, a charming display of white umbels. It's both a culinary and medicinal plant. Everything is edible: bulb, flower buds and leaves!

Bear's garlic: a perennial variety that naturalises

Onion: white, red or yellow

White, yellow, pink or red, onions come in a riot of colours…

Like garlic, onion can be planted in autumn. I never do, though, because in my heavy soil rot would be certain. And this year's sub-zero temperatures early in the year have confirmed my caution!

Here we grow three types:

small white onions which, harvested early as baby onions, pair wonderfully with first late-spring salads,
red onion Red Karmen to brighten summer salads,
yellow onion Paille des Vertus, with white flesh, which we eat year-round because it keeps very well.

For a perennial option, why not try the rocambole onion (Allium cepa proliferum) ? It's a charming old-fashioned vegetable, a little bit eccentric, which bears pretty bulbils at the top of its flowering stem. Its leaves are also eaten.

Red onions, white onion and rocambole onion

Shallot

Long, semi-long or round, once again choices are many! The grey shallot is for autumn planting while the pink shallot is planted in late winter/early spring. We like the late variety Jermor… but if you want an earlier variety, go for Longor. Both keep very well!

Where and how to plant them?

Garlic, onion and shallot are grown in the same way. They prefer full sun, in well-drained soil that is not too rich (do not add compost beforehand!), and that does not retain water. If drainage is poor, plant them on a raised bed to avoid any risk of rot that would affect storage. Finally, if you only have a balcony or terrace for your vegetable garden, these three vegetables can also be grown in planters or pots!

Planting is very easy; you will find all useful information in our Guide: "Planting garlic, shallot and onion".

But for us, no fuss — we plant them with our thumbs… after all, we're not going to deny ourselves the pleasure of getting our hands back in the soil!

February marks return to the vegetable patch. January’s frost, combined with the marked thaw of recent days, has given the soil an ideal texture. Pure bliss! It almost feels like spring and first plantings can finally begin. For us, garlic, onion and shallot lead the way… planting them is so easy you simply choose varieties! […]

This may seem a long way off but return to the vegetable garden will come quickly. In spring we all know those hectic moments when you have to be everywhere at once. It’s cheerful but often unproductive… unless you used winter to plan your vegetable garden.

Here are a few tips to anticipate and get organised, both in time and space, all in 5 steps!

First step: make a list of what you really want to eat

It sounds obvious but some gardeners write long lists of vegetables deemed essential for the vegetable garden. In their enthusiasm they even include ones they don’t much like (yes, really, I assure you!). Draw up a sensible list that includes vegetables you’ll be happy to find on your table. But don’t deprive yourself of the pleasure of discovery—add a few varieties you’ve wanted to try for a long time and, why not, some unusual, heirloom or exotic vegetables.

Second step: set up a sowing and planting calendar

Once that list is made, prepare a table and note the ideal period for sowing or planting each vegetable variety. By using colours you can quickly spot what should be sown in seed trays or pots, indoors in heat (red), under unheated cover (blue) or direct-sown outdoors (black). It may seem a bit tedious, believe me, but it will stop you from missing the sowing window and being denied a harvest!

Planning, an essential step for a large vegetable garden

For beginners, know that not all varieties of the same vegetable are sown at the same time: for example, smooth-seeded peas are sown at different times from wrinkled-seeded peas. Same for lettuces: some cannot stand heat while others tolerate it well! Always refer to the instructions on the packet or to the sowing periods recommended on our product pages.

Third step: decide the future location of each vegetable (crop rotation)

Planning your vegetable garden also means organising it in space. If this is your first vegetable garden, crop rotations aren’t yet an issue, but it’s high time to think about layout and style: raised beds? Wide beds?

In other cases, to avoid diseases and to meet each vegetable’s needs, it’s wise to practise crop rotations.

Crop rotations by vegetable type

To do this you will need to take account of last year’s crops. Unless you have an excellent memory, draw up a crop rotation plan. It’s an essential tool that simply involves recording (on a plan or by assigning a code to each plot) where crops have been grown over time. From this information you can determine the place for your future vegetables and plan, accordingly, any compost additions required for the most hungry crops.

Fourth step: mix everything for a more productive vegetable garden!

With sowing calendar and garden plan in hand, organising a rapid succession of crops (on the same plot) is now within reach. This will need some thought to estimate how long each vegetable occupies the bed, but you will produce more, which is useful in a small garden.

Another technique is to intercrop crops. You will need to identify the best combinations or “companions” but this will boost productivity, increase variety… while providing natural protection against diseases and pests. And if step 3 feels a bit off-putting, know that without fully absolving yourself you can relax a little on rotations!

Fifth step: flowers…and herbs!

Flowers and herbs are a bit the icing on the cake… Decorative, they fill bouquets (both vase and kitchen bouquets 😉 but they’re also very useful because they attract and feed pollinators and repel some pests. So include their sowing in your calendar and give them some space in the vegetable garden: in a dedicated area, at the plot edge or between rows—they deserve it!

And that’s it! All that remains is to take stock of your vegetable seed box… and place any necessary orders.

It’s well known, “on Saint Catherine’s Day… every stick takes root”. It is indeed the ideal time to plant your fruit trees.

Apple, cherry, pear, plum trees… Choosing a variety is not easy. It gets even more complicated when it comes to deciding on a form: scion, goblet, half-standard, standard, single U palmette or Verrier? Rather than give up, remember another proverb:

The best time to plant a tree was 20 years ago. The second best time is now.

Now let’s see together how to choose your next fruit trees, starting today.

Different forms of fruit trees

Choosing a tree form is essential because it determines size and shape of the mature tree. But forms are numerous and sometimes so complicated that there are encyclopaedias devoted to listing them. To simplify your choice, we will only cover the most common ones here.

Low-stem forms: scion, goblet

A fruit tree sold as a scion is a very young tree, one to two years old, grafted the previous year. It appears as a single stem, more or less branched. Still pliable, this is a tree you will train yourself over the years by pruning. Its main advantage is its price.

The goblet is a slightly older fruit tree. Cultivated for 2 to 3 years, its trunk measures around 60 cm in height. This tree is partially formed with the aim of producing a fairly low tree, 3 to 4 metres tall at maturity. This size is particularly convenient for harvesting fruit without the need for acrobatics! However, their low habit is more obstructive and makes it harder to move around the tree.

They are well suited to medium-sized gardens and productive orchards, as recommended planting distances are relatively small: about 3 to 4 metres between trees.

High stems or open-grown trees: half-standard and standard

Half-standard and standard fruit trees differ by their morphology. They are not older than a goblet, but have been grafted higher, at 110–130 centimetres for half-standards and 180 cm for standards. When mature they form fine trees. Half-standards will reach 5 to 6 metres in height versus 6 to 10 metres for standards… but they occupy less ground area. They require little pruning apart from simple thinning, and their production is substantial. Finally, their lifespan is long and can reach up to 100 years.

Because of their height and crown width, these trees are best planted in large gardens.

Palmettes and other common trained forms

Training fruit trees is an art that produces very attractive, productive and space-saving specimens. At maturity their height varies greatly depending on the form, while their width remains around 50 cm. Single U palmette, double U, Verrier, vertical cordon (columnar) with one or two arms… All these forms have the advantage of suiting small gardens. Espaliered fruit trees are very practical and find their place against a well-exposed wall or planted in a line. Supported on a sturdy trellis, they form ornamental fruit hedges that enliven and define spaces with charm. Columnar forms can even be placed in the vegetable garden.

Espaliered fruit trees require a certain know-how: they must be pruned every year with care. They are rather intended for experienced gardeners and for those who enjoy learning. Nevertheless, the simplest forms such as cordons (vertical, single or double) are within reach of all pruning shears, even beginners’.

Dwarf fruit trees: a special case

If dwarf fruit trees have been booming in recent years, it is because they can be grown anywhere: in pocket gardens and even in pots on a balcony or terrace. Selected for their very short internodes and grafted onto a dwarfing rootstock, their development is limited (maximum 2 metres in height) but they offer generous harvests of fruit just as large as standard varieties.

For full information on these varieties and their cultivation, discover our advice sheet: "Dwarf fruit trees"

Choosing a variety

Choice of variety is, admittedly, a matter of taste but not only...

When planting fruit trees or creating an orchard, you can opt for well-known, reputable varieties such as apple 'Belle de Boskoop', pear 'William's' or cherry 'Burlat', seek originality with the Nashi, for example, or cultivate authenticity with old varieties.

However, certain criteria should lead you to refine your selection.

Fruit trees and varieties adapted to your climate and soil

If Arras figs and Vendée mirabelles do not enjoy a fabulous reputation everywhere, it is because climate and soil play a decisive role in production and fruit quality… and even in the tree’s survival! In continental and oceanic climates the range of possibilities is wide, but it narrows when conditions become more difficult.

The most determined may create favourable microclimates in their gardens or look for fruit trees on rootstocks adapted to their pedoclimatic conditions. But, in absolute terms, making informed choices is more sensible. Take inspiration from what is generally grown locally or select varieties that are hardy, accommodating and cold-resistant.

Self-fertile or not?

Most fruit trees require the presence of another variety to fruit well (cross-pollination). Conversely, self-fertile varieties have the advantage of being self-sufficient and can therefore be planted alone, which is very useful when space is limited or when you want to grow many different fruits.

Packaging: bare roots or container-grown?

Our fruit trees are sold as bare roots or in pots. Bare-root trees are more economical, but planting is only possible during the dormant period and requires one extra precaution: coating the roots with pralin. Trees supplied in pots or containers, on the other hand, can be planted simply and all year round.

Now you’re briefed, all that remains is to take action! To carry out your planting properly, I invite you to consult our advice sheet: "Planting fruit trees".

It’s well known, “on Saint Catherine’s Day… every stick takes root”. It is indeed the ideal time to plant your fruit trees. Apple, cherry, pear, plum trees… Choosing a variety is not easy. It gets even more complicated when it comes to deciding on a form: scion, goblet, half-standard, standard, single U palmette or Verrier? […]

Picking your own fruit straight from the tree is a dream for many food lovers... even if they don't have the space for a full orchard. Why not combine the useful with the edible and plant a fruit hedge?

Fruit trees and berry bushes can all be planted in an edible hedge, regardless of the size of your garden.

Which fruit trees or bushes should I plant in my edible hedge?

Of course, the ideal is to design your fruit hedge according to your tastes (don't plant a medlar if you're not the type to eat over-ripe fruit!). Cherry, Apple, Pear, Plum trees, as well as Hazelnut, Raspberry, and Currant bushes are all classics. I don't think it's necessary to elaborate on these. Moreover, nature... and horticulture often hold delightful surprises, including in terms of taste. Here’s a small selection of trees or bushes, less common options chosen for their good productivity, originality, or the nutritional value of their fruits.

The Black Elder 'Haschberg' (Sambucus nigra) is a highly regarded variety for its high productivity. However, you'll need to make a choice: pick its flowers in May to prepare fritters, make the famous elderflower lemonade, or wait until September to harvest its berries, which make delicious jams. This is a vigorous shrub that grows quickly, typically reaching a height of 4 metres and a width of 2 metres... but it prunes well and even forgives mistakes!
The Thornless Blackberry (Rubus fruticosus) offers only advantages: fruit without the scratches! It can be easily trained on a trellis, making harvesting much easier. Among the many varieties, I particularly like 'Little Black Prince', a dwarf and compact variety that doesn't exceed one metre in height, as well as 'Thornfree', which is fast-growing, productive, and produces large fruit. Their only downside: children will help themselves long before you do.
The Fig 'Icecrystal' (Ficus carica), which has a low growth habit (about 2 metres high and wide), is quite hardy, ideal for areas north of the Loire, and offers two fruiting periods per year. And, as the icing on the cake, its foliage, which is very lobed, is particularly ornamental. In heavy soil, be sure to plant it on a mound. Like all figs, it dislikes humidity.

Black Elder 'Haschberg', Thornless Blackberry, and Fig 'Icecrystal'

The "Mayberry" or Honeyberry (Lonicera caerula kamtschatica) is a bush honeysuckle with edible fruit. It hails from Siberia, which speaks to its hardiness... but it is not self-fertile, so you need to plant at least two for its lovely white flowers to produce, from mid-May, small, pruinose blue fruits, whose flavour lies somewhere between blueberry and kiwi. These prunes can be enjoyed fresh or dried, in juice, jam, or jelly.
The Goji or Wolfberry (Lycium barbarum) is best known for its red berries with numerous properties (rich in vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants). Its origin is controversial (China? Mediterranean?), but I won't delve into the debate... because, in the end, it grows very well here! Its size varies depending on the variety: 'Sweet Lifeberry®' and 'Instant Success®' form compact shrubs (1.5 metres in all directions), while the species type can reach 3 metres under favourable conditions. Note that the purple flowers of the Wolfberry are charming and fit well in an ornamental garden.
The Jostaberry or Caseille (Ribes x) gets its name from the contraction of blackcurrant and gooseberry. It’s the ideal fruit for those who can’t decide and for small gardens that require a choice. Self-fertile, this small fruit tree manages well on its own and forms a beautiful bush, without thorns, reaching 2 metres at maturity. Its black berries, larger than those of blackcurrants, develop a tart flavour... and can be enjoyed, as you might have guessed, like blackcurrants or gooseberries.

Mayberry, Goji, and Jostaberry

The Sea Buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides), not to be confused with the Strawberry Tree (whose fruits are also edible), is not just popular with chickens! This is a low-maintenance thorny shrub that produces decorative orange berries and, most importantly, is very high in vitamin C, which can be consumed fresh, in compote, jam, or syrup. Self-fertile, the variety 'Friesdorfer orange' is now available in our catalogue, so don't miss out!
The Nashi (Pyrus pyrifolia) is also one of those fruit trees that could be described as "2 in 1": it’s no wonder it’s called, interchangeably, "Apple Pear" or "Pear Apple." It is not the result of hybridization, as it is actually an Asian pear that produces round fruits like apples, with a taste closer to that of pears. Some varieties like 'Shinseiki' or 'Nijisseki' are self-fertile. Non-self-fertile varieties can be pollinated by a different variety or by the Williams Pear.
The Serviceberry, particularly the variety Saskatoon berry (amelanchier alnifolia), is a variety that comes straight from the USA. Hardy and robust, it forms a small shrub about 3 metres high and can produce up to 8 kg of sweet berries.

gourmet hedge Sea Buckthorn and Nashi

And to top it all off, don't hesitate to plant some herbs (Mint, Lemon Balm, Golden Oregano) at the base of your edible hedge; they will create a lovely border and help reduce weeding.

Planting a fruit hedge: some tips

Unlike traditional hedges, the primary goal of a fruit hedge is not to create a green wall but to harvest fruit.

To achieve this, when planting, allow for generous spacing to:

let each tree or bush fully express itself,
allow light to penetrate,
facilitate pruning, which should be tailored to each fruit tree to encourage fruiting.

Depending on the size and layout of your garden, fruit hedges can be installed:

on the perimeter, to mark the property line or as a boundary (discuss with your neighbours... when it comes to fruit, creating a hedge and especially sharing the harvest is generally a well-received idea)
within the garden itself to define spaces... and ideally, in two rows and staggered to save space in length while also achieving a beautiful natural appearance.

Picking your own fruit straight from the tree is a dream for many food lovers… even if they don’t have the space for a full orchard. Why not combine the useful with the edible and plant a fruit hedge? Fruit trees and berry bushes can all be planted in an edible hedge, regardless of the […]

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Comparison table: real vs fake

Origin of fruits: the continents that they originate from

Fruits through time and cultures

Discovering three iconic fruits: pear, melon, and strawberry

Pear: millennia of know-how and innovations

Apricot: from Tibet to Provence

Melon: an unloved fruit turned summer star

The new hybrids and exotic fruits

Heirloom and forgotten fruits

Further reading: some useful books and websites

Origin of vegetables: the continents that gave birth to them

Vegetables through time: a brief timeline of an announced success

Aubergine, carrot, and artichoke: three domesticated vegetables under the microscope

The 'new vegetables'

These vegetables that might never have existed!

Further reading

What is Yellow Dragon disease (HLB)?

What is the pathogen of the dragon?

Symptoms of Yellow Dragon disease

How does the disease spread?

What cures the dragon disease?

Economic and environmental consequences

Control strategies and prevention

What are the prospects?

Lesson 1: forget about watering

Lesson 2: place it in a dark corner

Lesson 3: forget about the ideal temperature

Lesson 4: give it poor, compact soil

Lesson 5: never prune your basil

What is the Jerusalem artichoke?

Why is the Jerusalem artichoke back in the spotlight?

How to grow it?

How to cook it?

Our selection criteria

1- Taste

2- Cultivation and care

3- Use of the fruit

4- Everbearing and non-everbearing varieties

5- Productivity

Our Top 5

Raspberry 'Marastar': the largest fruits - 19/20

Blackberry Raspberry 'Buckingham Tayberry': a delicious blackberry aroma - 17/20

Raspberry 'Black Jewel': astonishing black fruits - 16/20

Raspberry 'Fall Gold': the children's favourite - 14/20

Raspberry 'Autumn First': perfect for jam - 14/20

The least impressive student

Raspberry 'Groovy': ornamental - 9/20

Caring for raspberry bushes

List of tested raspberry varieties

As from January for a good selection

From January to April depending on the climate and planting period

For southern regions:

For other regions:

How to store potatoes in the meantime?

Until when can you buy potatoes?

Further reading:

The origins of the sweet potato

The journey of the sweet potato

The origin of its name: Ipomoea batatas

Where does the term 'sweet potato' come from?

Sweet potato in the garden

Cooking sweet Potato

Further reading

Legumes: essential proteins

My selection:

Colorful vegetables, sweet taste, for vitamins and fun

My selection :

Litlle extras and boosters

1) Chia Seeds

2) Kale

3) Flower Sprout

4) Ginger