Red Kabocha Squash - Uchiki Kuri
Red Kabocha Squash - Uchiki Kuri
Red Kabocha Squash - Uchiki Kuri
Red Kabocha Squash - Uchiki Kuri
Red Kabocha Squash - Uchiki Kuri
Red Kabocha Squash - Uchiki Kuri
Cucurbita maxima Uchiki-Kuri
Red Hokkaïdo, Okkaido, Onion squash, Potimarron
Looking forward to sowing them.
Frédérique J., 14/11/2018
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This plant carries a 6 months recovery warranty
More information
We guarantee the quality of our plants for a full growing cycle, and will replace at our expense any plant that fails to recover under normal climatic and planting conditions.
Description
'Red Kuri' Squash is an excellent-tasting Japanese variety, also known as 'Uchiki Kuri', onion squash or potimarron. It produces generous yields of early-maturing, medium-sized fruits with dark orange skin and thick, sweet flesh that has a delicious chestnut-like flavour. Excellent for long-term storage. One plant yields an average of 5 fruits that weigh between 1.5 and 2 kg. Sow from March to June and harvest in September-October.
Orange, green, red, yellow, black or blue; smooth, ribbed, bumpy, hard-skinned, soft-skinned... Summer and winter squash comes in an astonishing array of shapes, colours and sizes due to their ability to hybridise easily. Winter squash refers to all pumpkins and squashes with tough skin and delicately sweet flesh. Summer squash, including courgettes (or zucchini), are different varieties that are harvested young, whilst the skin and seeds are still tender.
Both summer and winter squash are native to America and belong to the large Cucurbitaceae or gourd family (also known as cucurbits). They were introduced in Europe during the 16th century. The plants are generally annual vines that use tendrils for support. They are monoecious, meaning that both male and female flowers are produced on the same plant. Female flowers are easily identified by an inferior ovary located at the base of the flower, which will become a fruit when pollinated. The edible male squash blossoms are often harvested after pollination then fried or stuffed. The female flowers are edible too, however picking them will of course result in fewer fruits. Squash is a very versatile vegetable that is delicious roasted, in gratin or blended into delicious soups. Courgette is a staple ingredient in ratatouille, couscous and many other popular Mediterranean dishes. Both courgette and squash are low in calories and high in minerals and vitamins, especially provitamin A and vitamin B.
Harvesting: Squashes should preferably be harvested at full maturity, unless they are liable to rot when left on the plant. If this is the case, they can be brought indoors to finish their maturation. Courgettes are harvested whilst they are still young and tender. Handle summer and winter squash with care to avoid damaging the skin.
Storage: Courgettes do not store well because of their fine skin. It is possible to freeze them in slices for later use. Thick-skinned winter squashes will keep for several months and can be eaten all winter long. Unlike other fruits and vegetables, they store better in a warm, dry place. No need to store them in the dark: they are great to decorate the house during the colder months!
Good to know: Placing the squash fruits on top of a slate or roof tile will keep them from being in direct contact with the ground. This prevents them from rotting due to excessive humidity. Squash and courgette plants favour moist soil and benefit from mulching, especially during the hotter summer months. Both are very prone to powdery mildew (a fungal disease that causes a white down to form on the surface of the leaves). When watering, try to avoid getting water on the leaves or flowers. Grow your squash plants alongside alliums such as chives, onions or shallots or members of the Fabaceae family (formerly legumes) such as beans or peas. Avoid growing them next to cucumber plants.
Even if the vegetable garden is first and foremost a place for growing great quality veg, it’s always a good idea to leave a bit of room for flowers. Growing flowers alongside your vegetable plants will make your general gardening experience more enjoyable and is a great way to attract pollinators and repel garden pests! Flowers such as gaillardia, marigolds, zinnias, cosmos or nasturtiums can be sown in and around the rows of vegetables. Herbs such as dill can be very useful also. Bear in mind that some companion plants self-seed easily and can be a bit invasive (borage, chives, lemon balm etc.)
Harvest
Plant habit
Foliage
Botanical data
Cucurbita
maxima
Uchiki-Kuri
Cucurbitaceae
Red Hokkaïdo, Okkaido, Onion squash, Potimarron
Cultivar or hybrid
Annual
Planting and care
Préparation
Les cucurbitacées aiment les sols meubles riches et profonds. Creusez un trou d’au moins 40 cm en tous sens et le remplir de fumier bien décomposé et/ou de compost. En plus d’une bonne fumure, ils auront besoin de beaucoup d’eau et de chaleur et de beaucoup de place (au moins 1 mètre carré).
Semis
Avant le semis, vous pouvez faire tremper les grains 24h dans un peu d’eau pour stimuler la germination.
Soit, 3 semaines avant le repiquage, sous châssis ou au chaud (16 à 30°C), à partir de mars, semez 2 ou 3 graines par godet ou container assez grands pour le développement des racines. La levée interviendra 3 à 5 jours après. Ne gardez alors que le plant le plus vigoureux. Plantez en pleine terre après la mi-mai, une fois tout risque de gelée écartée. Il est important de ne pas pratiquez le semis trop à l’avance, les plants pourraient s’étioler et/ou leur système racinaire trop développé ne supporterait pas la transplantation.
Soit, à partir de la mi-mai, directement en place, par poquet de 3 graines, dès que les gelées ne sont plus à craindre et que la terre est bien réchauffée. Eclaircir au bout de 2 à 3 semaines pour ne garder que le plant le plus vigoureux. Recouvrez le sol de matière organique (compost, tontes, feuilles…), ce qui aidera à maintenir le sol frais.
Arrosage
Dès le semis ou la plantation, arrosez copieusement en veillant à ne pas déplacer les graines puis régulièrement pendant la formation des fruits. En revanche, une fois les fruits formés, pendant la maturation, limitez les arrosages.
Seedlings
Care
Intended location
Planting & care advice
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Hardiness is the lowest winter temperature a plant can endure without suffering serious damage or even dying. However, hardiness is affected by location (a sheltered area, such as a patio), protection (winter cover) and soil type (hardiness is improved by well-drained soil).
In temperate climates, pruning of spring-flowering shrubs (forsythia, spireas, etc.) should be done just after flowering.
Pruning of summer-flowering shrubs (Indian Lilac, Perovskia, etc.) can be done in winter or spring.
In cold regions as well as with frost-sensitive plants, avoid pruning too early when severe frosts may still occur.
The harvesting period indicated on our website applies to countries and regions in USDA zone 8 (France, England, Ireland, the Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...) fruit and vegetable harvests are likely to be delayed by 3-4 weeks.
In warmer areas (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), harvesting will probably take place earlier, depending on weather conditions.
The sowing periods indicated on our website apply to countries and regions within USDA Zone 8 (France, UK, Ireland, Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...), delay any outdoor sowing by 3-4 weeks, or sow under glass.
In warmer climes (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), bring outdoor sowing forward by a few weeks.
The planting period indicated on our website applies to regions in USDA Zone 9a (East Coast and Midlands: Dublin, Wexford, Waterford, Kilkenny, Portlaoise). It will vary depending on where you live:
- On the west coast and in the north-west (Galway, Limerick, Sligo, Donegal, Westport), delay planting by 1 to 2 weeks in spring and bring it forward by 1 to 2 weeks in autumn compared to the dates given, preferably choosing periods without strong winds.
- In the inland hills and plateaus (Wicklow Mountains, Macgillycuddy’s Reeks, Connemara, Killarney), it is best to plant in spring (April–May) or autumn (September–October), avoiding periods of waterlogged soil in winter and strong winds, which pose the main risk to newly planted trees in these areas.
The flowering period indicated on our website applies to regions in USDA Zone 9a, such as the East Coast and Midlands, including Dublin, Wexford, Waterford, Kilkenny and Portlaoise.
This will vary depending on where you live:
- On the west coast and in the northwest (Galway, Limerick, Sligo, Donegal and Westport), it will be delayed by one to two weeks compared to the given dates, due to stronger Atlantic winds and less spring sunshine.
- In the inland hills and plateaus (the Wicklow Mountains, the Macgillycuddy's Reeks, Connemara and Killarney), flowering will be delayed by two to three weeks. Flowering mainly occurs between May and July, with the limiting factors being less frost and more of the excessive humidity, strong winds and lack of sunshine that are characteristic of these areas.
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