Pittosporum tobira x heterophyllum Green Mound - Japanese pittosporum
Pittosporum tobira x heterophyllum Green Mound - Japanese pittosporum
Pittosporum tobira x heterophyllum Green Mound - Japanese pittosporum
Pittosporum tobira x heterophyllum Green Mound - Japanese pittosporum
Pittosporum tobira x heterophyllum 'Jule1' Green Mound
Japanese Pittosporum, Australian laurel
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Description
Pittosporum 'Green Mound' is a hardy evergreen bush with a compact, rounded habit, forming a dense, regular cushion of bright green foliage. Particularly floriferous, it becomes covered in spring with small, intensely fragrant white flowers, turning creamy yellow as they fade. Resistant to heat and drought, and fairly hardy, it adapts to many situations and offers a beautiful alternative to Pittosporum tobira 'Nana', in regions more exposed to cold. It is adorable in the ground and in pots, as a low hedge, in topiary, or even trained as a standard to enhance a terrace.
Pittosporum 'Green Mound' is a hybrid resulting from the cross-breeding of Pittosporum tobira and P. heterophyllum, developed by the French breeder Frédéric Julien. This cultivar combines the robustness of the former with the increased hardiness of the latter.
Pittosporum 'Green Mound' is characterised by a naturally compact and rounded habit; it forms a regular mound of bright, glossy green foliage. The bush reaches 1 m to 1.50 m in all directions in the ground. In a pot, its dimensions are slightly reduced, around 0.8 to 1 m in height and spread, depending on growing conditions. Its growth is moderately fast, and it can easily be pruned to control its development. Its alternate, obovate to elliptical leaves measure 3 to 5 cm long by 1.5 to 3 cm wide. They are thick, leathery, with an entire margin that is slightly rolled under. Their upper surface is a glossy green. This foliage is evergreen in winter. Flowering occurs from April to May, and it is much more abundant than that of its two parents. It takes the form of rounded terminal clusters composed of small white flowers, 1 to 2 cm in diameter, emitting a fragrance reminiscent of orange blossom. These flowers turn creamy yellow towards the end of the flowering period. Pittosporum 'Green Mound' does not produce fruit. This hybrid is sterile, meaning it forms neither capsules nor viable seeds. The bush thrives in sun or partial shade and adapts to a wide range of well-drained soils. It tolerates summer drought once established, but benefits from regular watering during heatwaves. Its hardiness is rated at -12/-13°C.
Pittosporum 'Green Mound' is appreciated for its versatility in landscape design. It can be used as a low hedge, in a border, or in a large pot on a terrace. Its dense foliage and large cushion-like appearance provide structure to plant compositions. In contemporary or Mediterranean-inspired gardens, it pairs well with purple or silver foliage such as that of Loropetalum chinense 'Black Pearl' and Artemisia 'Powis Castle'. It also works wonderfully in more classic settings alongside boxwood balls, Lonicera nitida 'Maigrün', or dwarf conifers. It is very decorative in topiary as it can be pruned into a ball or a short lollipop to accentuate its structural effect, or even trained as a standard to create volume on a terrace. This bush, which can withstand severe pruning if necessary, lends itself to multiple uses.
Tips: Apply a good organic fertiliser each year for better flowering. In a pot, pruning is almost unnecessary.
Pittosporum tobira x heterophyllum Green Mound - Japanese pittosporum in pictures
Plant habit
Flowering
Foliage
Botanical data
Pittosporum
tobira x heterophyllum
'Jule1' Green Mound
Pittosporaceae
Japanese Pittosporum, Australian laurel
Cultivar or hybrid
Planting and care
Plant Pittosporum 'Green Mound' in spring in areas at the limit of its hardiness, and in early autumn in mild or warm and dry climates. It should be planted in fertile, well-drained, deep soil. It is relatively hardy (-10 to -13°C); choose a location in full sun or partial shade, sheltered from prevailing winds. Mulch the base immediately. Once well-rooted, it tolerates dry summers fairly well. Position it along a south-facing wall in regions with harsh winters. In cooler climates, cover it with winter fleece or shelter it in a frost-free conservatory for winter. Apply a good organic fertiliser each year for better flowering.
Planting period
Intended location
Care
Planting & care advice
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Hardiness is the lowest winter temperature a plant can endure without suffering serious damage or even dying. However, hardiness is affected by location (a sheltered area, such as a patio), protection (winter cover) and soil type (hardiness is improved by well-drained soil).
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In temperate climates, pruning of spring-flowering shrubs (forsythia, spireas, etc.) should be done just after flowering.
Pruning of summer-flowering shrubs (Indian Lilac, Perovskia, etc.) can be done in winter or spring.
In cold regions as well as with frost-sensitive plants, avoid pruning too early when severe frosts may still occur.
The harvesting period indicated on our website applies to countries and regions in USDA zone 8 (France, England, Ireland, the Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...) fruit and vegetable harvests are likely to be delayed by 3-4 weeks.
In warmer areas (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), harvesting will probably take place earlier, depending on weather conditions.
The sowing periods indicated on our website apply to countries and regions within USDA Zone 8 (France, UK, Ireland, Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...), delay any outdoor sowing by 3-4 weeks, or sow under glass.
In warmer climes (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), bring outdoor sowing forward by a few weeks.
The planting period indicated on our website applies to regions in USDA Zone 9a (East Coast and Midlands: Dublin, Wexford, Waterford, Kilkenny, Portlaoise). It will vary depending on where you live:
- On the west coast and in the north-west (Galway, Limerick, Sligo, Donegal, Westport), delay planting by 1 to 2 weeks in spring and bring it forward by 1 to 2 weeks in autumn compared to the dates given, preferably choosing periods without strong winds.
- In the inland hills and plateaus (Wicklow Mountains, Macgillycuddy’s Reeks, Connemara, Killarney), it is best to plant in spring (April–May) or autumn (September–October), avoiding periods of waterlogged soil in winter and strong winds, which pose the main risk to newly planted trees in these areas.
The flowering period indicated on our website applies to regions in USDA Zone 9a, such as the East Coast and Midlands, including Dublin, Wexford, Waterford, Kilkenny and Portlaoise.
This will vary depending on where you live:
- On the west coast and in the northwest (Galway, Limerick, Sligo, Donegal and Westport), it will be delayed by one to two weeks compared to the given dates, due to stronger Atlantic winds and less spring sunshine.
- In the inland hills and plateaus (the Wicklow Mountains, the Macgillycuddy's Reeks, Connemara and Killarney), flowering will be delayed by two to three weeks. Flowering mainly occurs between May and July, with the limiting factors being less frost and more of the excessive humidity, strong winds and lack of sunshine that are characteristic of these areas.