Rose in turf pouches or bare roots

When to plant a bare-root rose?

Roses sold as bare roots or in peat pouches are usually lifted in October to be available for sale. Best time to plant is from November to the end of March, during the dormant season. It is important to choose a time when soil is neither frozen nor waterlogged. Avoid periods of severe frosts or very cold spells, which may compromise establishment of young plants.

If you cannot plant them immediately, you can heel them in. To do this, dig a trench 30 cm deep in a shaded, wind‑sheltered spot. Place the roses in the trench at an angle and cover them with soil, taking care to firm soil around the roots to avoid air pockets. Water lightly if soil is dry. They can remain like this for 3 to 4 days before final planting.

Where to plant your rosebush?

Roses prefer a sunny, sheltered spot away from strong winds, to encourage flowering and development. Ideally, plant them in rich, well-drained soil that is slightly acidic to neutral. Avoid areas where water pools, as rose roots do not like excess moisture. If soil is too heavy or clayey, you can lighten it with coarse sand or compost to improve drainage. Finally, space your plants at least 50 cm to 1 m apart, depending on variety, to give them enough room to flourish.

How to plant a rose with bare roots?

To plant a bare-root rose, follow these steps :

• Work soil to a depth of about 40 cm and a width of 30 cm to aerate it well. Loosen soil, breaking it down into fine crumbs, and add to the bottom of the hole an organic amendment such as crushed horn or blood meal, rich in nutrients to promote establishment. Then form a small mound of soil at the bottom of the hole to lay the roots on.
• Then praline the roots: prepare a thick mud mixture by mixing soil and water. Carefully unwrap your rose, then spread out the roots if they have been folded in the packaging. Dip them into the bucket of mud to coat them thoroughly. This process helps protect the roots and improves establishment.
• Place the rose in the planting hole, spreading the roots over the mound of soil you formed. Check depth: the graft union (where the canes meet the stem) should sit slightly above ground level.
• Backfill the hole gradually with the soil removed, firming gently as you go to surround the roots without leaving air pockets. Take care not to bury the graft union.
• If necessary, prune the canes of your rose back to about 15–20 cm to encourage establishment and good branching.
• Create a shallow basin around the base of your rose to direct water towards the roots, then water thoroughly. This helps the soil settle around the roots and removes any air pockets.
• In areas with severe winters, you can protect roses by applying mulch around the base to a height of about 20 cm. Dead leaves, straw or compost can be used to insulate the roots from the cold.

How to care for your rose bush?

Watering

Roses need regular watering, especially during their first year and in periods of drought. Water at the base, avoiding wetting foliage to prevent disease, and favour watering in the morning or late afternoon. Keep soil slightly moist but not waterlogged.

We recommend placing a layer of organic mulch at the base of roses (straw, bark, dead leaves…), as this will help soil stay cooler for longer, reduce weed growth and protect roots from temperature fluctuations.

Fertilisation

Enrich soil in spring by adding compost or a rose fertiliser rich in potash to encourage flowering. A feed can also be applied after the first flush of flowers to support development of new blooms.

Pruning

• In August: Prune roses that do not repeat-flower (non-remontant) to prepare them for the following year.
• In autumn (just after the first frosts): Make a light prune of roses that have just finished flowering, in particular to remove spent flowers and to balance the plant. You can also carry out maintenance pruning: remove old wood and dead branches, as well as any that cross or clutter the centre of the plant, to improve air circulation and prevent disease. Retain 3 to 7 vigorous young branches to structure the rose.
• In February/March: Main pruning is done at the end of winter, before growth resumes, once the risk of severe frosts has passed. Prune back young shoots severely, leaving only 3 to 5 eyes per stem. This pruning stimulates production of new shoots and encourages more generous flowering. Make the cut on a slant, just above an outward-facing eye to encourage balanced growth.

Do not prune dwarf roses before they are 3 or 4 years old. Pruning too early may compromise their development.

For climbing roses, remove faded flowers during the flowering period to encourage further blooms. After flowering, remove dead or weak branches. To keep a climbing rose within its allotted space, carry out formative pruning and make sure to tie main branches securely to their support.

Discover our advice sheet to learn all about pruning roses.

Diseases and pests

Roses can be susceptible to diseases such as powdery mildew or rust, as well as pests like aphids. Check foliage regularly and act quickly with appropriate treatments, preferably organic ones such as black soap or Bordeaux mixture. Remove diseased leaves to prevent spread.

For more information, consult our advice sheet on diseases of roses.