Nerium oleander 'Alsace'
Nerium oleander 'Alsace'
Nerium oleander 'Alsace'
Nerium oleander 'Alsace'
Nerium oleander Alsace
Oleander, Rose Bay
Very beautiful young plant and well developed
Marie, 20/04/2020
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Description
The 'Alsace' Oleander is a descendant of Nerium oleander, a vigorous evergreen bush emblematic of Mediterranean gardens. This particularly flowering variety blossoms single flowers, a delicate and fresh rose white, continuously from June to October if the soil remains cool. They are grouped in generous bouquets, highlighted by an elegant dark green leaf, attractive even outside the flowering period. Low maintenance, easy to grow in any drained soil, resistant to sea spray as well as drought, its only weak point is its quite poor hardiness, particularly in its early years. Its cultivation in the ground is to be reserved for regions that do not experience very cold winters. It composes large elegant and multicoloured hedges in association with other varieties and is imposing in a large pot on the terrace, the balcony, or even in a small garden during the entire beautiful season.
The numerous Oleander cultivars available on the horticultural market are most often hybrids between Nerium oleander subsp. oleander, spontaneous around the Mediterranean, and Nerium oleander subsp. indicum, highly fragrant, spontaneous from Iran to China. Their flowers are single, double, even triple and decline an almost infinite palette of tones, from white to pink through yellow and salmon, red, and even purple. Only the blue hue is absent.
Nerium oleander is an evergreen bush of the Apocynaceae family, just like periwinkles or false jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides). 'Alsace' naturally forms a bush with a dense and bushy habit, ramified near the base, multi-stemmed, with an overall rounded habit. Vigorous, it will reach an average ripeness of 3.50m in height for 3m (9 ft 10 in) in spread, for a rapid growth. Its flexible branches, covered with a grey bark, carry long evergreen leaves, thick and tough, a bit bluish-green with a lighter reverse. They measure 10 to 15cm (3.9 to 5.9 in) in length for 3cm (1.2 in) in width. In case of intense drought, Nerium loses some of its leaves, the oldest ones, those located towards the base of the stems. The flowering takes place in spring then again from the end of summer to autumn or continuously from spring to autumn depending on the climate, for 4 to 5 months in cool soil. The flowers consist of a tube flaring into 5 bright rose white petals and neighbour with thin and turbinate buds. They are gathered in corymbs, mainly in the terminal part of the branches aged 1 or 2 years. This flowering, nectariferous and melliferous, is followed by the formation of long reddish pods that burst at ripeness, releasing a multitude of small seeds provided with a bunch of white bristles, disseminated by the wind. Be careful not to prune the Oleander too severely: only the stems that have reached a certain length bear flowers!
Symbol of resistance and generosity, Nerium oleander is an excellent hedge plant by the sea but also a magnificent specimen to plant isolated in a warm situation. Hardy up to -8/-10°C (17.6/14 °F) once well established, it will grow without problem in any ordinary but drained soil. It can also be used as a hedge, by regularly pruning it, associated with other evergreen bushes such as Laurustinus, Elaeagnus ebbingei, Mexican Orange, myrtles, Pittosporum tobira and even Grevillea. In a mild climate, it can be led as a small tree, by initially selecting the most beautiful stem that will be brought up to 1.50m or 2m (164 or 6 ft 7 in) from the ground before letting it ramify. The specimens thus obtained are particularly ornamental, but require a very mild winter that will not risk cutting them back to the ground: it would be a pity if a severe frost wiped out several years of work in a few hours! On the terrace, it will reign in a large pot, in the company of citrus trees, Grevillea and Oleanders. This method of cultivation allows the tree to be stored in a very bright, cool but frost-free room, in our very cold regions.
The genus name, Nerium, would come from its old Greek name, Nerion, derived from Nereus, a sea god of Greek mythology. Another interpretation would link Nerium to neros, which means wet in Greek. The liquid element, underlying in these two interpretations, is probably explained by the fact that the wild Oleander never grows very far from the water. Its long roots anchor deeply in the soil to draw freshness, even on the sides of throats or in the bed of dried-up rivers. Proof of its incredible resistance to drought, in arid regions like the Negev in Israel or the south of the Moroccan Anti-Atlas, Nerium oleander is one of the only bushes along with Acacia and Retama (a kind of broom) able to face the desert, anchored in the walls of ravines.
Nerium oleander 'Alsace' in pictures
Plant habit
Flowering
Foliage
Safety measures
ingestion
Cette plante est toxique si elle est ingérée volontairement ou involontairement.
Ne la plantez pas là où de jeunes enfants peuvent évoluer, et lavez-vous les mains après l'avoir manipulée.
Pensez à conserver l'étiquette de la plante, à la photographier ou à noter son nom, afin de faciliter le travail des professionnels de santé.
Davantage d'informations sur https://plantes-risque.info
Planting and care
We recommend planting Oleander in the spring, when frosts are no longer to be feared, in cooler regions, but preferably in early autumn in a hot and dry climate. Install it in a very sunny and sheltered location, or in partial shade in a hot climate, in a deep, well-drained soil, even limestone and even subjected to brackish water risings. If it grows even in the shade, it will be much less floriferous and its habit will take on a more ungainly appearance, less bushy. While it resists drought very well and tolerates arid situations, it will only fully develop and flower abundantly in a soil that is sufficiently fresh in depth. It resists sea spray very well. Monitor watering during the first two summers. It will appreciate a contribution of compost and a thick layer of dead leaves, especially the first two winters in regions at the limit of hardiness. Watering should be done at the foot of the plant, never on the leaves.
Pruning Oleander requires some precautions: the bush only flowers on young branches that have reached a certain length (generally branches less than 1 year old, not too short), so it is necessary not to cut back all the branches in the same year, or risk being deprived of flowers for the entire season. When necessary, pruning should be done in early spring. If you wish to train the Nerium on a trunk, choose the most beautiful stem on the young plant, stake it and eliminate all the others at ground level. During the first few years, all secondary branches that pierce this 'trunk' less than 1m (3 ft 4 in) or 1m50 from the ground will systematically be eliminated. The crown will then be treated according to the method outlined above.
Nerium is often the prey of scale insects, causing the appearance of sooty mould on the leaves. Thin and aerate the branches. Treat with copper (Bordeaux mixture) in the spring if necessary. If the scale infestation is really very significant, cut your oleander to 10-20cm (3.9-7.9 in) from the ground: its ability to regenerate from the stump is significant, and the bush will regain its beautiful appearance in a short time. Aphids can also settle on the flower buds: treat in the evening with a pyrethrin-based insecticide.
Oleander is also famous for the toxicity of its sap; let us recall here that this sap has a violent taste, so bitter and harsh that few unfortunate tasters are able to ingest enough for it to become lethal, especially as they feel an irresistible desire to run and wash their mouths! Most accidents come from confusion between Oleander and bay laurel in cooking (the aroma of bay laurel is recognisable among all), or from the use of branches as skewers...
Propagation by cuttings of sections of this year's shoots, just after flowering or in early summer. A branch placed in a bottle of water easily produces white and fragile roots. Planting in the soil, in a habit filled with light compost, requires some precautions so as not to break them. Wean the cutting from water gradually, moving from a water-saturated substrate to a simply kept fresh compost. Transplant into the open ground the following spring, or even at the end of the next summer in a mild climate.
Planting period
Intended location
Care
Planting & care advice
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Hardiness is the lowest winter temperature a plant can endure without suffering serious damage or even dying. However, hardiness is affected by location (a sheltered area, such as a patio), protection (winter cover) and soil type (hardiness is improved by well-drained soil).
In temperate climates, pruning of spring-flowering shrubs (forsythia, spireas, etc.) should be done just after flowering.
Pruning of summer-flowering shrubs (Indian Lilac, Perovskia, etc.) can be done in winter or spring.
In cold regions as well as with frost-sensitive plants, avoid pruning too early when severe frosts may still occur.
The harvesting period indicated on our website applies to countries and regions in USDA zone 8 (France, England, Ireland, the Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...) fruit and vegetable harvests are likely to be delayed by 3-4 weeks.
In warmer areas (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), harvesting will probably take place earlier, depending on weather conditions.
The sowing periods indicated on our website apply to countries and regions within USDA Zone 8 (France, UK, Ireland, Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...), delay any outdoor sowing by 3-4 weeks, or sow under glass.
In warmer climes (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), bring outdoor sowing forward by a few weeks.
The planting period indicated on our website applies to regions in USDA Zone 9a (East Coast and Midlands: Dublin, Wexford, Waterford, Kilkenny, Portlaoise). It will vary depending on where you live:
- On the west coast and in the north-west (Galway, Limerick, Sligo, Donegal, Westport), delay planting by 1 to 2 weeks in spring and bring it forward by 1 to 2 weeks in autumn compared to the dates given, preferably choosing periods without strong winds.
- In the inland hills and plateaus (Wicklow Mountains, Macgillycuddy’s Reeks, Connemara, Killarney), it is best to plant in spring (April–May) or autumn (September–October), avoiding periods of waterlogged soil in winter and strong winds, which pose the main risk to newly planted trees in these areas.
The flowering period indicated on our website applies to regions in USDA Zone 9a, such as the East Coast and Midlands, including Dublin, Wexford, Waterford, Kilkenny and Portlaoise.
This will vary depending on where you live:
- On the west coast and in the northwest (Galway, Limerick, Sligo, Donegal and Westport), it will be delayed by one to two weeks compared to the given dates, due to stronger Atlantic winds and less spring sunshine.
- In the inland hills and plateaus (the Wicklow Mountains, the Macgillycuddy's Reeks, Connemara and Killarney), flowering will be delayed by two to three weeks. Flowering mainly occurs between May and July, with the limiting factors being less frost and more of the excessive humidity, strong winds and lack of sunshine that are characteristic of these areas.
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