Nerium oleander Yellow
Nerium oleander Yellow
Nerium oleander Yellow
Nerium oleander Jaune
Oleander, Rose Bay
A telephone call with Hervé was very informative, patient, and kind in all his explanations. Thank you.
Marie-Noelle, 21/11/2023
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Description
Nerium oleander 'Yellow' is an excellent evergreen bush for mild climates. It is floriferous, easy to grow and drought-resistant. This variety bears simple flowers in a bright yellow colour. It will easily find its place in a large, colourful flowering hedge, alongside white, salmon or even red varieties. It offers a long and abundant flowering period, from June to October if the soil remains moist. Oleander is not demanding in terms of soil type and has amazing adaptability to the most difficult conditions; its only weakness is its rather poor hardiness, especially during its early years. It is best grown in regions that do not experience extremely cold winters. An excellent conservatory plant, it will delight enthusiasts of Mediterranean plants, planted in a large pot on a terrace.
The numerous cultivars of oleander available on the horticultural market are most often hybrids between Nerium oleander subsp. oleander, found spontaneously around the Mediterranean, and the highly fragrant Nerium oleander subsp. indicum, found spontaneously from Iran to China. They offer an almost infinite range of tones, from white to pink, yellow and salmon, red, and even mauve. The blue shade is the only one missing.
Nerium oleander is an evergreen bush from the Apocynaceae family, just like periwinkles or false jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides). The 'Yellow' cultivar, obtained by Minier nurseries, is part of a series of particularly floriferous hybrids. It naturally forms a bushy and branching shrub, with multiple stems and a generally rounded habit. It will reach an average height of 3.5m (12ft) with a spread of 2.5m (8ft) at maturity, with rapid growth. Its flexible branches are covered with grey bark, and bear long, thick, and leathery evergreen leaves, with a slightly bluish-green colour and lighter undersides. They measure 10 to 15cm (4 to 6in) in length and 3cm (1in) in width. It will lose some of its oldest leaves towards the base of the stems during periods of intense drought. Flowering occurs in spring and again from late summer to autumn, or continuously from spring to autumn depending on the climate, for 4 to 5 months in moist soil. The flowers, composed of a tube opening into 5 petals, are pale-yellow. They are gathered in corymbs, mainly at the terminal part of 1 or 2-year-old branches. This nectar-rich and honey-producing flowering is followed by the formation of long reddish pods that burst open at maturity, releasing a multitude of small seeds with a bouquet of white bristles, dispersed by the wind. Be careful not to prune too severely: only stems that have reached a certain length bear flowers!
Nerium oleander 'Yellow' is a magnificent specimen to plant in a warm location. Hardy down to -8 to -10°C (17.6 to 14°F) once well-established, it will thrive in any ordinary but well-drained soil. It can also be used as a hedge alongside other evergreen shrubs such as Bay Laurel, Elaeagnus ebbingei, Mexican Orange, myrtles, Pittosporum tobira, and even Grevillea. In mild climates, it can be trained as a small tree by selecting the most beautiful stem and allowing it to branch out at a height of 1.5m (5ft) or 2m (7ft) from the ground. The resulting specimens are particularly ornamental but require a very mild winter that will not cause them to be cut back to the ground: it would be a pity if severe frost were to destroy several years of work in just a few hours! It will thrive on a terrace in a large pot, alongside citrus trees, Grevillea, and other oleanders. This cultivation method allows the tree to be stored in a bright, cool but frost-free location in cold regions.
The genus name, Nerium, is said to come from its ancient Greek name, Nerion, derived from Nereus, a sea god in Greek mythology. Another interpretation links Nerium to neros, which means moist in Greek. The underlying liquid element in both interpretations is probably explained by the fact that wild oleander never grows far from water. Its long roots anchor deeply into the ground to draw in moisture, even on the slopes of gorges or in dried-up river beds. To demonstrate its drought resistance, Nerium oleander is one of the few shrubs, along with Acacia and Retama (a type of broom), capable of withstanding the desert.
Nerium oleander Yellow in pictures
Plant habit
Flowering
Foliage
Safety measures
Botanical data
Nerium
oleander
Jaune
Apocynaceae
Oleander, Rose Bay
Cultivar or hybrid
ingestion
Cette plante est toxique si elle est ingérée volontairement ou involontairement.
Ne la plantez pas là où de jeunes enfants peuvent évoluer, et lavez-vous les mains après l'avoir manipulée.
Pensez à conserver l'étiquette de la plante, à la photographier ou à noter son nom, afin de faciliter le travail des professionnels de santé.
Davantage d'informations sur https://plantes-risque.info
Planting and care
In cooler regions, plant in spring when the risk of frost has passed. In warm, dry regions, plant in early autumn. Plant it in a sunny and sheltered location, or in partial shade in a hot climate. Choose deep, well-drained soil. It can tolerate chalky soil and even ground subject to brackish water seepage. If it grows in the shade, it will be much less floriferous and its habit will take on a more gangly, less bushy appearance. Although it is resistant to drought and can tolerate arid conditions, it will only reach its full potential and flower abundantly in soil that is sufficiently moist in depth. It is resistant to sea spray. Monitor watering during the first two summers. It will appreciate the addition of compost and a thick layer of dead leaves, especially during its first two winters in colder regions. Watering should be done at the base of the plant, never on the foliage.
Pruning oleander requires some precautions. The bush only flowers on young branches that have reached a certain length (generally branches less than 1 year old). Do not cut back the entire crown in the same year, otherwise it will be deprived of flowers for the whole season. When pruning is necessary, it should be done in early spring. When forming a standard oleander, choose the most beautiful stem on the young plant, stake it, and remove all the other stems at ground level. During the first few years, all secondary shoots that emerge on this "trunk" less than 1m (3ft) or 1.5m (5ft) from the ground should be systematically removed. The crown will then be treated according to the method described above.
Oleander is often attacked by scale insects, which can lead to the appearance of sooty mould on the foliage. Thin out and ventilate the branches. If the scale infestation is very severe, cut your oleander back to 10 to 20cm (4 to 8in) from the ground: it has a strong ability to regenerate from the stump, and the bush will regain its beautiful appearance in no time. Aphids can also settle on the flower buds.
Note: Oleander is toxic! Oleander leaves bear a similarity in appearance to bay laurel so take care when selecting herbs for the cooking pot.
Propagation is by cuttings of young shoots, taken just after flowering or in early summer. A branch placed in a bottle of water easily produces white and fragile roots. Planting in a container filled with lightweight potting soil requires some precautions to avoid breaking them. Gradually wean the cutting off water by transitioning from a saturated substrate to a lightly moistened potting soil. Transplant into the ground the following spring, or even at the end of the following summer in mild climates.
Planting period
Intended location
Care
Planting & care advice
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Hardiness is the lowest winter temperature a plant can endure without suffering serious damage or even dying. However, hardiness is affected by location (a sheltered area, such as a patio), protection (winter cover) and soil type (hardiness is improved by well-drained soil).
In temperate climates, pruning of spring-flowering shrubs (forsythia, spireas, etc.) should be done just after flowering.
Pruning of summer-flowering shrubs (Indian Lilac, Perovskia, etc.) can be done in winter or spring.
In cold regions as well as with frost-sensitive plants, avoid pruning too early when severe frosts may still occur.
The harvesting period indicated on our website applies to countries and regions in USDA zone 8 (France, England, Ireland, the Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...) fruit and vegetable harvests are likely to be delayed by 3-4 weeks.
In warmer areas (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), harvesting will probably take place earlier, depending on weather conditions.
The sowing periods indicated on our website apply to countries and regions within USDA Zone 8 (France, UK, Ireland, Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...), delay any outdoor sowing by 3-4 weeks, or sow under glass.
In warmer climes (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), bring outdoor sowing forward by a few weeks.
The planting period indicated on our website applies to regions in USDA Zone 9a (East Coast and Midlands: Dublin, Wexford, Waterford, Kilkenny, Portlaoise). It will vary depending on where you live:
- On the west coast and in the north-west (Galway, Limerick, Sligo, Donegal, Westport), delay planting by 1 to 2 weeks in spring and bring it forward by 1 to 2 weeks in autumn compared to the dates given, preferably choosing periods without strong winds.
- In the inland hills and plateaus (Wicklow Mountains, Macgillycuddy’s Reeks, Connemara, Killarney), it is best to plant in spring (April–May) or autumn (September–October), avoiding periods of waterlogged soil in winter and strong winds, which pose the main risk to newly planted trees in these areas.
The flowering period indicated on our website applies to regions in USDA Zone 9a, such as the East Coast and Midlands, including Dublin, Wexford, Waterford, Kilkenny and Portlaoise.
This will vary depending on where you live:
- On the west coast and in the northwest (Galway, Limerick, Sligo, Donegal and Westport), it will be delayed by one to two weeks compared to the given dates, due to stronger Atlantic winds and less spring sunshine.
- In the inland hills and plateaus (the Wicklow Mountains, the Macgillycuddy's Reeks, Connemara and Killarney), flowering will be delayed by two to three weeks. Flowering mainly occurs between May and July, with the limiting factors being less frost and more of the excessive humidity, strong winds and lack of sunshine that are characteristic of these areas.
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