Vigna unguiculata subsp. sesquipedalis
Vigna unguiculata subsp. sesquipedalis
Vigna unguiculata subsp. sesquipedalis
Vigna unguiculata subsp. sesquipedalis
Yardlong bean, Asparagus bean, Snake bean, Chinese long bean
Sowed Kilometre beans, with one specimen picked at 74.5 cm!!! Incredible and on top of that, they're very tasty and stringless!
Fred, 06/07/2025
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Description
The Kilometre Bean belongs to the Fabaceae family without being a Phaseolus. So, despite its name, it is not a green bean in the strict sense. But it looks very similar: it produces green pods with a round section. It climbs up to 3 or even 4 metres (13 feet) in height like climbing varieties. Simply put, its pods grow exceptionally large in a lush garden where everything would be gigantic. They form long vines averaging 80cm (32in) in length, with edible pods and seeds. Like beans, the edible parts are directly related to the ripeness of the fruit when harvested.
The Kilometre Bean is particularly cultivated in tropical environments, especially in Asia. This plant particularly enjoys heat. Therefore, it should be planted in a very sunny and warm location. Sowing should be done as soon as the soil is adequately warmed.
By arranging bamboo stems in a teepee or Canadian tent shape, you can combine usefulness with aesthetics in the vegetable garden: you will obtain beautiful trellises that will form a green wall. Place several seeds in a hole at the base of each support. Each plant produces numerous yellowish-purple flowers, which will give way to a bountiful fruiting from July onwards.
Its very distinctive taste is a cross between that of green beans and asparagus. It is rather appreciated for its immature pods, as the flavour of the dried beans is rather mediocre.
Whether consumed for its pods or its seeds, beans are highly appreciated vegetables in gardens because they are very easy to grow. They are so punctual that gardeners know the exact date of their first harvest, which occurs 60 days after sowing.
Discovered in the New World and acclimatized in Europe from the 16th century onwards, beans have now become an essential legume in diets around the world. Native Americans cultivated them for their dried seeds, but it was the Italians who, in the 18th century, initiated the consumption of the whole immature pod.
The bean is a vine with indeterminate growth. Primitive varieties are all climbing and require support. Later, for practical reasons, dwarf varieties were selected, but all of them have tendrils that can wrap around a support.
The pods are usually green, sometimes yellow (butter beans), striped with red, or even amethyst. Among the varieties that are eaten when they are "fin" or "extra fin" (thin or extra thin), there are "haricots à filets" which have threads when ripe. Then the pod becomes parchment-like and loses its flavour. The "haricot mangetout" is generally more fleshy and can be eaten entirely, both the seeds and the pods, even when ripe. The more recently created "filet - mangetout" beans can be consumed when young as "extra fin" until they become more fleshy like a "mangetout", as they do not form threads.
Among the "à écosser" varieties (those whose seeds are consumed), the harvest of fresh beans is distinct from the harvest of dry seeds, which occurs 90 days after sowing.
The immature green pods are rich in vitamins A, B9, and C, as well as trace elements and minerals. Dry beans are also very rich in vitamin C, trace elements, and especially plant proteins.
Harvesting: The harvest of fresh beans or young pods begins 60 days after sowing. For fresh beans, it should be done before the pods start to dehydrate and develop wrinkles. The beans should barely have taken on their color. For the consumption of pods, the harvest should take place every 2 or 3 days, both at the "fin" and "extra fin" stages for filet beans. The harvest of dry beans is done by cutting the entire plant, which is then hung in a dry and airy place. They can be shelled as needed.
Storage: Freezing pods is the most common method of preservation today. To do this, trim the ends, wash the pods, blanch them for 5 to 6 minutes in boiling water, then plunge them into cold water before drying them with a clean cloth. Once placed in bags, the beans can be placed in the freezer at -18°C (-0.4°F). However, canning is regaining its popularity among an increasing number of consumers due to the inherent taste qualities of this preservation method. Like freezing, trim the ends, wash and blanch the beans, then plunge them into cold water. Place them in jars and fill with salted boiling water. Seal the jars and sterilize in a pressure cooker or with a sterilizer for 1 hour and 30 minutes over medium heat. Completely cover the jars with water after tightening the lids.
Dry beans: When fully dry, bean seeds can be stored for up to a year if kept in good conditions, such as in airtight jars.
Gardener's tip: Beans, like all members of the Fabaceae family, have the ability to fix nitrogen from the air into the soil through plant-bacteria symbiosis. They have the ability to regenerate soils. Beans can be included in crop rotation after burying green manure. In Central and South America, beans are traditionally associated with squash and corn, forming a beneficial triad. This association is locally known as Milpa. Beans also pair well with eggplants, carrots, cabbage, potatoes, and radishes, as they mutually protect each other. Avoid the presence of alliums or fennel, as their growth inhibits each other.
A spray of nettle manure allows for effective control of aphid attacks and strengthens the plants that benefit from it.
Harvest
Plant habit
Foliage
Botanical data
Vigna
unguiculata subsp. sesquipedalis
Fabaceae
Yardlong bean, Asparagus bean, Snake bean, Chinese long bean
Central America
Annual
Planting and care
Soil preparation: Beans like light, fresh but not damp soils that are rich in nutrients. However, they do not tolerate soils that are too chalky or too acidic. Therefore, it is important to prepare the soil by deeply digging it up to 20cm (8in) without turning the soil over. Then, it should be amended with compost or well-decomposed manure. Do not sow beans on soil that has recently been limed as this causes hardening and reduces the taste quality of the pod.
Sowing under glass: Under glass or in tunnels, bean sowing can begin as early as mid-March. Beans are sensitive to cold and require a minimum soil temperature of 15°C (59°F). The glass structures should be facing south or west. Only ventilate them during the warm hours of the day. Remove the protection only when there is no longer a risk of frost.
Sowing in open ground: Sowing should be done from April in southern regions or from May when the soil is sufficiently warm and there is no longer a risk of frost. Dig furrows 3 to 4cm (1 to 2in) deep, spaced 40cm (16in) apart. Sow the seeds, spacing them 5 to 7cm (2 to 3in) apart, or sow them in groups of 4 to 5 seeds spaced 40cm (16in) apart in all directions. Cover the seeds with soil and lightly compact with a rake. When the plants reach a height of 20cm (8in), mound up the bases to provide support.
The first harvests take place approximately 60 days after sowing and continue until the end of October. Don't hesitate to sow beans every 15 days for continuous harvesting until the end of autumn.
There are different types of support for climbing beans: the Canadian tent frame, the teepee, using nets or grids. Any tall element can become the support for this type of bean, giving the cultivation a very aesthetic appearance.
Seedlings
Care
Intended location
Planting & care advice
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Hardiness is the lowest winter temperature a plant can endure without suffering serious damage or even dying. However, hardiness is affected by location (a sheltered area, such as a patio), protection (winter cover) and soil type (hardiness is improved by well-drained soil).
In temperate climates, pruning of spring-flowering shrubs (forsythia, spireas, etc.) should be done just after flowering.
Pruning of summer-flowering shrubs (Indian Lilac, Perovskia, etc.) can be done in winter or spring.
In cold regions as well as with frost-sensitive plants, avoid pruning too early when severe frosts may still occur.
The harvesting period indicated on our website applies to countries and regions in USDA zone 8 (France, England, Ireland, the Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...) fruit and vegetable harvests are likely to be delayed by 3-4 weeks.
In warmer areas (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), harvesting will probably take place earlier, depending on weather conditions.
The sowing periods indicated on our website apply to countries and regions within USDA Zone 8 (France, UK, Ireland, Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...), delay any outdoor sowing by 3-4 weeks, or sow under glass.
In warmer climes (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), bring outdoor sowing forward by a few weeks.
The planting period indicated on our website applies to regions in USDA Zone 9a (East Coast and Midlands: Dublin, Wexford, Waterford, Kilkenny, Portlaoise). It will vary depending on where you live:
- On the west coast and in the north-west (Galway, Limerick, Sligo, Donegal, Westport), delay planting by 1 to 2 weeks in spring and bring it forward by 1 to 2 weeks in autumn compared to the dates given, preferably choosing periods without strong winds.
- In the inland hills and plateaus (Wicklow Mountains, Macgillycuddy’s Reeks, Connemara, Killarney), it is best to plant in spring (April–May) or autumn (September–October), avoiding periods of waterlogged soil in winter and strong winds, which pose the main risk to newly planted trees in these areas.
The flowering period indicated on our website applies to regions in USDA Zone 9a, such as the East Coast and Midlands, including Dublin, Wexford, Waterford, Kilkenny and Portlaoise.
This will vary depending on where you live:
- On the west coast and in the northwest (Galway, Limerick, Sligo, Donegal and Westport), it will be delayed by one to two weeks compared to the given dates, due to stronger Atlantic winds and less spring sunshine.
- In the inland hills and plateaus (the Wicklow Mountains, the Macgillycuddy's Reeks, Connemara and Killarney), flowering will be delayed by two to three weeks. Flowering mainly occurs between May and July, with the limiting factors being less frost and more of the excessive humidity, strong winds and lack of sunshine that are characteristic of these areas.
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