Vigna unguiculata subsp. sesquipedalis Dolique Metro noir
Vigna unguiculata subsp. sesquipedalis Dolique Metro noir
Vigna unguiculata subsp. sesquipedalis Dolique Metro noir
Vigna unguiculata subsp. sesquipedalis Dolique Metro noir
Yardlong bean, asparagus bean, snake bean, Chinese long bean
Very good plant, good production and very tasty.
pierre L., 10/12/2018
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Description
This Black Metro Dolichos, also known as Serpent Bean or Kilometer Bean, belongs to the Fabaceae family without being a Phaseolus. So, despite its name, it is not a green bean per se. But it closely resembles one: it produces round green pods. It climbs to a height of 3 to 4 meters (10 to 13 feet) like climbing varieties. Simply put, its pods reach exceptional proportions in a lush garden where everything would be gigantic. They form long vines of an average of 80 cm (32in), with edible pods and seeds. Like beans, the edible parts are directly related to the ripeness of the fruit at harvest. The seeds of this variety of dolichos are black.
The Serpent Bean is particularly cultivated in tropical environments, especially in Asia. This plant particularly appreciates heat. Therefore, care should be taken to plant it in a very sunny and warm location. Sowing should be done as soon as the soil is sufficiently warmed up. By arranging bamboo poles in a teepee or Canadian tent shape, you can combine usefulness and aesthetics in the vegetable garden: you will obtain beautiful trellises that will form a green wall. Place several seeds in a hole at the base of each support. Each plant produces a multitude of yellowish-violet flowers, which give way to a bountiful fruiting starting in July. Its very particular taste is a cross between that of green beans and asparagus. It is rather appreciated for its immature pods as the flavor of dried beans is rather mediocre. Carry out your sowing from April to June to harvest from July to September.
The untreated or "NT" seeds are derived from conventionally grown plants (often using phytosanitary products), but they undergo no treatment after harvest. These seeds are allowed in organic market gardening when organic seeds are out of stock.
Whether consumed for its pod or its seed, beans are highly appreciated in gardens because they are very easy to grow. They are so punctual that gardeners know the exact day they will have their first harvest, which is 60 days after sowing.
Discovered in the New World and acclimatized in Europe from the 16th century onwards, beans have now become an essential legume in diets all over the world. Native Americans cultivated them for their dried seeds, but it was the Italians who, in the 18th century, initiated the consumption of the whole pod by harvesting it while still immature.
Beans are indeterminate climbing vines. Primitive varieties are all climbing and require support. Later, for practical reasons, dwarf varieties were selected, but they all have tendrils that can wrap around a support.
The pods are generally green, sometimes yellow (butter beans), streaked with red, or even amethyst. Among the varieties that are eaten at the fine or extra fine stage, there are string beans that have strings when fully ripe. Then the pod becomes parchment-like and loses its taste.
The snap bean is generally more fleshy and can be consumed entirely, both the seeds and the pods, even when fully ripe. More recently created stringless - snap beans can be eaten young, at the extra fine stage, until they become more fleshy like a snap bean because they do not develop strings.
Among the shell beans (those whose seeds are consumed), there is a distinction between harvesting fresh seeds and dry seeds, which is 90 days after sowing.
Immature green pods are rich in vitamins A, B9, and C, as well as trace elements and minerals. Dry beans are also very rich in vitamin C, trace elements, and especially vegetable proteins.
Harvesting: harvesting fresh seeds or young pods begins 60 days after sowing. For fresh seeds, it must be done before the pods start to dehydrate and develop wrinkles. The seeds should barely have taken on their color. For pod consumption, harvesting should be done every 2 or 3 days, both at the fine and extra fine stages for string beans. Harvesting dry seeds involves cutting the entire plant, which is then hung in a dry and airy place. They can be shelled as needed.
Storage: freezing pods is currently the most common method of preservation. To do this, remove the stems, wash the pods, blanch them for 5 to 6 minutes in boiling water, then plunge them into cold water before drying them with a clean towel. Once placed in a bag, the beans can be placed in the freezer at -18°C (-0.4°F). However, canning is regaining popularity among an increasing number of consumers due to the inherent taste qualities of this preservation method. As with freezing, remove the stems, wash and blanch the beans, then place them in jars filled with boiling salted water. Close the jars and sterilize them in a pressure cooker or with a sterilizer for 1 hour and 30 minutes over medium heat. To do this, completely cover the jars with water after sealing them tightly.
Dry beans: when completely dry, bean seeds can be stored for up to one year if they are stored under good conditions, such as in airtight jars.
A gardening tip: beans, like all members of the Fabaceae family, have the ability to fix nitrogen from the air into the soil through a plant-bacteria symbiosis. Therefore, they have the ability to regenerate soils. Beans can be included in crop rotations after burying green manure.
Traditionally, bean cultivation in Central and South America is associated with squash and corn, forming a triad with positive companionship. This association is locally called Milpa. Beans also associate well with eggplants, carrots, cabbage, potatoes, and radishes as they protect each other. However, avoid planting them near alliums or fennel as their growth inhibits each other.
A spray of nettle manure effectively fights aphid attacks and strengthens the plants that have benefited from it.
Harvest
Plant habit
Foliage
Botanical data
Vigna
unguiculata subsp. sesquipedalis
Dolique Metro noir
Solanaceae
Yardlong bean, asparagus bean, snake bean, Chinese long bean
Cultivar or hybrid
Annual
Planting and care
Soil preparation: Beans like light, fresh but not damp, and nutrient-rich soils. However, they do not appreciate soils that are too chalky or too acidic. Therefore, it is necessary to prepare the soil by deep digging of 20 cm (8in) without turning the soil. Then, it should be amended with compost or well-decomposed manure. Do not sow beans on recently limed soil as it causes hardening and reduces the taste quality of the pod.
Sowing under cover: Under cover or in tunnels, bean sowing can begin from mid-March. Beans are sensitive to cold, so the soil needs to reach a minimum of 15°C (59°F). The covers should be facing south or west. Only ventilate them during the warmest hours of the day. Remove the covers only when there is no longer a risk of frost.
Sowing in open ground: Sowing should be done from April in southern regions or from May when the soil is sufficiently warmed and there is no longer a risk of frost. Dig furrows 3 to 4 cm (1 to 2in) deep, spacing them 40 cm (16in) apart. Sow your seeds, spacing them 5 to 7 cm (2 to 3in) apart, or in groups of 4 to 5 seeds, spacing them 40 cm (16in) apart in all directions. Cover the soil and lightly press down with a rake. When the plants reach a height of 20 cm (8in), mound up the bases to support them.
The first harvests take place approximately 60 days after sowing and continue until the end of October. Do not hesitate to sow beans every 15 days for continuous harvesting until the end of autumn.
There are different types of support for climbing beans: the Canadian tent, the tipi, nets, or grids. Any tall structure can become the support for this type of bean, which then gives a very aesthetic look to the cultivation.
Seedlings
Care
Intended location
Planting & care advice
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Hardiness is the lowest winter temperature a plant can endure without suffering serious damage or even dying. However, hardiness is affected by location (a sheltered area, such as a patio), protection (winter cover) and soil type (hardiness is improved by well-drained soil).
In temperate climates, pruning of spring-flowering shrubs (forsythia, spireas, etc.) should be done just after flowering.
Pruning of summer-flowering shrubs (Indian Lilac, Perovskia, etc.) can be done in winter or spring.
In cold regions as well as with frost-sensitive plants, avoid pruning too early when severe frosts may still occur.
The harvesting period indicated on our website applies to countries and regions in USDA zone 8 (France, England, Ireland, the Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...) fruit and vegetable harvests are likely to be delayed by 3-4 weeks.
In warmer areas (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), harvesting will probably take place earlier, depending on weather conditions.
The sowing periods indicated on our website apply to countries and regions within USDA Zone 8 (France, UK, Ireland, Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...), delay any outdoor sowing by 3-4 weeks, or sow under glass.
In warmer climes (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), bring outdoor sowing forward by a few weeks.
The planting period indicated on our website applies to regions in USDA Zone 9a (East Coast and Midlands: Dublin, Wexford, Waterford, Kilkenny, Portlaoise). It will vary depending on where you live:
- On the west coast and in the north-west (Galway, Limerick, Sligo, Donegal, Westport), delay planting by 1 to 2 weeks in spring and bring it forward by 1 to 2 weeks in autumn compared to the dates given, preferably choosing periods without strong winds.
- In the inland hills and plateaus (Wicklow Mountains, Macgillycuddy’s Reeks, Connemara, Killarney), it is best to plant in spring (April–May) or autumn (September–October), avoiding periods of waterlogged soil in winter and strong winds, which pose the main risk to newly planted trees in these areas.
The flowering period indicated on our website applies to regions in USDA Zone 9a, such as the East Coast and Midlands, including Dublin, Wexford, Waterford, Kilkenny and Portlaoise.
This will vary depending on where you live:
- On the west coast and in the northwest (Galway, Limerick, Sligo, Donegal and Westport), it will be delayed by one to two weeks compared to the given dates, due to stronger Atlantic winds and less spring sunshine.
- In the inland hills and plateaus (the Wicklow Mountains, the Macgillycuddy's Reeks, Connemara and Killarney), flowering will be delayed by two to three weeks. Flowering mainly occurs between May and July, with the limiting factors being less frost and more of the excessive humidity, strong winds and lack of sunshine that are characteristic of these areas.
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