Kalanchoe: Cultivation and Care

Botany and description

Kalanchoes belong to the large Crassulaceae family, known for its succulent plants adapted to arid environments. Their genus name, Kalanchoe, originates from a Latin transcription of a Chinese word, likely related to some species’ ability to reproduce spontaneously through propagation by cuttings or via seedlings that grow on their leaves.

In French, these plants are commonly called kalanchoes, but also “fleurs de fortune” or “Goethe’s plants”, due to the German poet and scientist’s fascination with their remarkable reproductive methods. In their natural habitat, they mainly grow in the warm, dry regions of Africa and Madagascar, as well as parts of Asia. Their ability to store water in their fleshy leaves and withstand drought conditions makes them champions of adaptation.

Their popularity as houseplants stems primarily from their abundant and colourful flowering which can last several weeks, particularly in Kalanchoe blossfeldiana or Flaming Katy, the most common species found in garden centres, available in various flower colours (red, orange, yellow, white, purple…) and even double-flowered varieties. Their easy care is another key factor: kalanchoes tolerate occasional watering neglect and thrive in bright environments without demanding much attention.

The classic Flaming Katy comes in various colours.

Among the most popular cultivated species and varieties are Kalanchoe beharensis ‘Oak Leaf’, with spectacular foliage resembling velvety oak leaves, and Kalanchoe beharensis ‘Fang’, recognisable by its dentate leaves adorned with small protrusions. Kalanchoe marmorata, with its large marbled leaves, adds a graphic touch to interiors, while Kalanchoe oricula charms with its thick, rounded ear-shaped leaves. Kalanchoe thyrsiflora, sometimes confused with Kalanchoe luciae, stands out with its rosettes of broad leaves with red edges that develop spectacular hues under intense light.

Did you know?: The name Bryophyllum was formerly used for certain Kalanchoe species, particularly those capable of producing seedlings on their leaf edges, like Kalanchoe daigremontiana or Kalanchoe pinnata. This name comes from the Greek bryo (to sprout) and phyllon (leaf), referencing this unique vegetative reproduction ability. Today, botanists have incorporated these species into the Kalanchoe genus, though the old name remains in use by some horticulturists.

Young seedlings developing around the edge of a Kalanchoe daigremontiana leaf

Kalanchoes display great morphological diversity, ranging from small herbaceous plants to true succulent bushes. Their habit varies by species: some, like Kalanchoe thyrsiflora, form compact rosettes with thick leaves arranged in spirals, while others, like Kalanchoe beharensis (such as the ‘Subnuda’ variety), can reach several metres in height with a more upright, ramified habit.

The root system is generally shallow, adapted to the well-drained, poor soils of their natural habitat. These fibrous and relatively fragile roots allow quick water absorption after rare rains but make them sensitive to excess moisture. In some species, like Kalanchoe pinnata, adventitious roots may even appear on stems and fallen leaves, facilitating their spread.

The trunk, when present, is often woody at the base and becomes more succulent towards the tips. Branches, where they exist, are fleshy and brittle, as in Kalanchoe tomentosa, a bushy species whose stems become lignified with age. In bush forms like Kalanchoe beharensis, thick stems store water and sometimes develop a nodose appearance with slightly peeling bark.

The fuzzy foliage is clearly visible on this Kalanchoe tomentosa

The foliage is typically fleshy, covered with a thick cuticle that limits evaporation, and comes in highly varied forms. Kalanchoe tomentosa, for example, has elongated, velvety leaves covered in thick silvery fuzz with edges adorned by small brown spots. Conversely, Kalanchoe daigremontiana produces lanceolate leaves with dentate edges where numerous seedlings form, capable of detaching and rooting.

Kalanchoe flowering is spectacular and prolonged, often occurring in winter or spring, with paniculate or cymose inflorescences. The best-known Kalanchoe blossfeldiana is particularly prized for its small flowers in dense clusters, while Kalanchoe thyrsiflora develops tall flower spikes bearing yellowish urn-shaped flowers.

Note that Flaming Katy requires short days to flower, which is why indoors it typically blooms in winter. However, growers artificially subject them to short days to produce flowering plants year-round.

After flowering, fruiting is relatively inconspicuous. The fruits are capsules containing very fine seeds dispersed by wind or water. However, most kalanchoes are mainly propagated by cuttings or via seedlings developing on their leaves, as seen in species from the Bryophyllum subgenus (see above), facilitating their rapid spread in nature and cultivation.

Warning! All kalanchoes are toxic, particularly to animals. They can cause poisoning affecting the nervous and muscular systems. The responsible substances, called bufadienolides, belong to the same family as cardenolides, steroid compounds with cardiotonic effects.

When and how to plant a kalanchoe in a pot?

When to plant a Kalanchoe?

The best time to plant a Kalanchoe is in spring, when the plant enters its active growth period. It can also be planted in summer, but avoid periods of extreme heat which could stress the plant immediately after potting.

Where to place a Kalanchoe?

Kalanchoe is a light-loving plant. It should be placed in a bright spot, ideally near a south or west-facing window. However, in summer, direct midday sunlight can scorch the leaves, especially in species with fuzzy foliage like Kalanchoe tomentosa. In winter, more direct exposure is recommended to compensate for the lack of light.

Regarding temperature, Kalanchoe thrives in conditions between 15 and 25°C. It can tolerate occasional lower temperatures (down to 10°C), but below this, its growth slows significantly and it may suffer. It is very sensitive to frost, which is why it’s grown as a houseplant in regions with cold winters.

Ambient humidity should be moderate. Excessively humid environments encourage fungal diseases and root rot. It’s best to avoid placing the pot in a bathroom or near a humidifier.

A bright and warm location is all Kalanchoes need to thrive

Which pot to choose?

The pot should be:

• With drainage holes at the bottom to ensure good drainage and prevent waterlogging.
• Slightly larger in diameter than the root ball (about 2 to 3 cm wider), as an oversized pot retains too much moisture.
• Terracotta preferably, as this porous material promotes water evaporation and reduces rot risks. A plastic pot can work but requires more careful watering.

Which growing medium to use?

Kalanchoe needs a well-draining growing medium. An ideal mix would be:

• 2/3 cactus and succulent compost, or a light universal compost.
• 1/3 coarse sand or perlite, to further improve drainage.
• A few clay pebbles or gravel at the pot’s base to prevent water stagnation.

How to plant a Kalanchoe in a pot?

1. Fill the pot with growing medium: add compost leaving enough space for the root ball.
2. Gently remove the plant from its pot: tap the original pot’s walls lightly to free the roots without breaking them. If roots are too tight, gently tease them apart with your fingers.
3. Position the Kalanchoe in the new pot’s centre: adjust height so the leaf base sits just above the compost.
4. Top up with compost: fill around the root ball without compacting too much to allow air circulation.
5. Water lightly: moisten the compost with a fine-beaked watering can, without saturating the soil. The first watering should be moderate as roots need to adapt to their new environment.
6. Place the plant in its final position: in a bright location, but without intense direct sunlight for the first few days.

Repotting Kalanchoe

Kalanchoe should be repotted every 2 to 3 years, in spring, when its roots completely fill the pot or the plant appears less vigorous. The process is similar to initial planting, taking care to choose a slightly larger pot and fresh compost. If the plant becomes too large and unbalanced, this is also an opportunity for light pruning to restore a harmonious shape.

Growing and Caring for Kalanchoe

Kalanchoes are easy-care plants, as long as their specific needs for watering, fertilisation and exposure are met. Their succulent nature allows them to withstand forgotten waterings, but some precautions are necessary to keep them healthy and prolong their flowering.

Watering: finding the right balance

Kalanchoe requires moderate watering, as its fleshy leaves store water. The golden rule is to let the growing medium dry out thoroughly between waterings. During the growth period (spring-summer), watering every 10 to 15 days is sufficient, while in winter, it can be reduced to once a month.

Watering should always be done at the base of the plant, avoiding wetting the leaves to prevent fungal diseases. Stagnant water is the enemy of kalanchoe: always empty the saucer after watering and never leave water at the bottom of the pot. When in doubt, it’s better to underwater than overwater.

Fertilisation: boosting growth and flowering

To stimulate flowering and growth, a light application of fertiliser is recommended. During spring and summer, you can add a liquid fertiliser for flowering plants (diluted to half strength in this case) or for cacti every 3 to 4 weeks. In autumn and winter, fertilisation should be stopped to allow the plant to enter dormancy.

Be careful, excess fertiliser can harm the plant! It’s therefore preferable to use a fertiliser low in nitrogen (N) but rich in phosphorus (P) and potassium (K) to support beautiful flowering.

Pruning: an facultative but sometimes useful step

Pruning isn’t essential for kalanchoe, but it can be beneficial to stimulate new flowering and maintain a nice compact shape. After flowering, you can cut off spent flower stalks to prevent the plant from wasting energy on seed formation.

If the plant becomes too large or bare at the base, you can pinch it (cut the tips of the stems) to encourage branching and achieve a denser habit. Some species, like Kalanchoe tomentosa or Kalanchoe beharensis, naturally have a bushy habit and don’t require regular pruning.

Precautions to avoid problems

• Beware of excess moisture: This is the main cause of kalanchoe mortality. Overly wet growing medium can lead to root rot and fungal diseases.
• Avoid scorching sun: Too much direct exposure in summer can cause leaf burn, especially in varieties with fuzzy foliage like Kalanchoe tomentosa.
• Protect from draughts and cold: Temperatures below 10°C can significantly slow growth and cause leaf yellowing.

The classic kalanchoe is an easy plant, ideal for beginners

Potential parasitic and diseases in Kalanchoë

The Most Common Parasites

• Mealybugs: These small, white, cottony parasites cling to stems and the undersides of leaves, feeding on the sap and weakening the plant. They often appear when the air is too dry. To eliminate them, you can remove them manually with a cotton pad soaked in 70% alcohol or spray a solution of diluted black soap in water.
• Aphids: Less common, they attack young shoots and flower buds, deforming them and preventing flowering. A strong jet of water or a treatment with black soap is usually enough to eradicate them.
• Red spider mites: These microscopic mites proliferate in hot, dry weather, leaving a greyish foliage and sometimes fine webs. Increasing ambient humidity and spraying water on the leaves (without excess) can limit their appearance. In case of infestation, a treatment with nettle purine or black soap is effective.

Common Diseases

• Root rot: This is the most common problem, caused by overwatering or poor drainage. The leaves become soft, turn yellow, and eventually fall off. The only solution is to stop watering, repot the plant in a dry, well-draining substrate, and cut off affected roots if necessary.
• Powdery mildew: This fungal disease appears as a white powdery deposit on the leaves, due to excessive humidity and lack of ventilation. Isolate the plant and treat with a natural fungicide like diluted milk.
• Leaf spots: These can be caused by fungi or bacteria, often linked to water splashes on the foliage. Avoid watering from above and remove affected leaves.

By maintaining good ventilation, avoiding excess humidity and regularly monitoring the condition of the leaves, you can greatly reduce the risks of parasitic attacks and diseases in kalanchoes.

How to propagate kalanchoes?

Kalanchoes propagate easily and offer several techniques to obtain new plants. Depending on the species, you can use stem or leaf propagation by cuttings, division of suckers, or propagation by seedlings, a characteristic unique to certain varieties like Kalanchoe daigremontiana.

Stem propagation by cuttings: The simplest and most effective method

Propagation by cuttings is the most commonly used technique for multiplying kalanchoes, especially for species like Kalanchoe blossfeldiana, Kalanchoe tomentosa or Kalanchoe beharensis.

1. Take a cutting: Choose a healthy, non-flowering stem and cut a 5 to 10 cm segment using clean, sharp secateurs.
2. Let it callous: Allow the cutting to “dry” for 24 to 48 hours in a dry, shaded spot. This step is essential to prevent rotting once planted.
3. Plant the cutting: Fill a small pot with a light, well-draining substrate (a mix of cactus compost and perlite/sand) and plant the cutting by gently pressing the base into the soil.
4. Water lightly: Moisten the soil slightly without soaking it. For the first few weeks, keep the plant in a bright spot but out of direct sunlight.
5. Monitor growth: Within 2 to 3 weeks, roots should appear. Once well-rooted, the kalanchoe can be treated as a mature plant.

Leaf propagation by cuttings: A slower but interesting method

Certain species, like Kalanchoe tomentosa or Kalanchoe thyrsiflora, can be propagated by leaf cuttings. Simply detach a healthy leaf, let it dry for a few days, then place it on a slightly moist, well-draining substrate. Small roots and a new rosette will eventually appear at the base of the leaf within a few weeks.

Division of suckers: For species that produce offsets

Some varieties, like Kalanchoe thyrsiflora, produce suckers at the base of the mother plant. These can be carefully separated and replanted individually.

1. Gently dig up the mother plant and identify suckers that already have roots.
2. Separate the sucker by cutting cleanly with a sterilised knife.
3. Replant in a well-draining substrate and water lightly.

Propagation by seedlings: A special feature of Bryophyllum

Species formerly classified in the Bryophyllum genus (now considered a subgenus), such as Kalanchoe daigremontiana or Kalanchoe pinnata, reproduce naturally through tiny seedlings that grow along the edges of their leaves. These miniature plants drop off naturally and root themselves in the soil. To speed up propagation, you can collect these seedlings and replant them directly in a pot with a light substrate.

Left: Young seedlings of Kalanchoe daigremontiana drop onto the substrate and root themselves. Right: A freshly rooted kalanchoe cutting.

How to showcase a kalanchoe in our interiors?

Kalanchoes blend effortlessly into many interior styles. Moreover, their ability to adapt to bright environments and easy maintenance make them ideal plants for a living room, bedroom, or even an office.

Which type of interior suits kalanchoes best?

• Modern and minimalist style: With their sculptural forms and vibrant colours, kalanchoes pair well with sleek interiors featuring straight lines and neutral tones. A Kalanchoe thyrsiflora, with its broad leaves and red edges, will look perfect on a light wood shelf or white desk.
• Bohemian and natural vibe: For a cosy interior with raw materials (rattan, wood, linen), kalanchoes, particularly Kalanchoe beharensis, create a lovely harmony with their velvety foliage and unusual shapes. Placed on a wood coffee table or hung in macramé, they enhance the natural and relaxed feel of the décor.
• Vintage or industrial décor: In a retro or industrial-inspired interior, a kalanchoe in an aged pot, terracotta, or patinated metal will add a botanical touch while maintaining a raw aesthetic. A Kalanchoe tomentosa, with its fuzzy foliage and chocolate-brown edges, will look stunning on a metal shelf or dark wood sideboard.
• Tropical or exotic atmosphere: Pairing a kalanchoe with other plants like monsteras, palms, or philodendrons helps recreate a mini indoor jungle. Varieties such as Kalanchoe marmorata, with its marbled leaves, or Kalanchoe oricula, with its compact habit, fit perfectly into a lush botanical setting. You can also combine kalanchoes with plants that require similar care: agaves, haworthias, aloes, crassulas…

Which pot should you choose to showcase it?

The choice of pot greatly influences the aesthetic of the kalanchoe. Depending on the desired style:

• Raw terracotta: Ideal for an authentic, natural look, this material highlights kalanchoes while regulating substrate moisture. It works perfectly in bohemian or Mediterranean interiors.
• Coloured or textured ceramic: To energise a modern or pop space, a pot in bright hues (yellow, red, blue) or with graphic patterns will accentuate the beauty of the colourful flowers of Kalanchoe blossfeldiana.
• Wicker or natural fibre: For a cosy, warm effect, a rattan or water hyacinth planter adds a bohemian touch, ideal for complementing kalanchoes with soft shapes like Kalanchoe tomentosa.