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<em>Edgeworthia chrysantha</em>, paperbush: planting and care

<em>Edgeworthia chrysantha</em>, paperbush: planting and care

Contents

Modified the Thursday 7 August 2025  by Virginie T. 11 min.

Edgeworthia in a nutshell

  • Small bush (1.5 m tall), moderately hardy, easy to grow in temperate regions south of the Loire
  • Original silhouette and exotic, luminous flowering that studs the bare wood
  • At the end of winter, adorned with golden, white or reddish‑orange flowers with an intoxicating scent that set the still‑sleeping garden alight
  • Thrives in light, acidic and well‑drained soil
  • Slow‑growing, distinctive and compact bush, ideal for small and town gardens; grows very well in pots
Difficulty

A word from our expert

L’Edgeworthia chrysantha (syn. E. papyrifera), or paperbush, is a fabulous early-flowering bush still unjustly overlooked. In early spring, its silky flower pom-poms, golden-yellow, white or vermilion, intensely scented, awaken the garden still asleep from the cold and form an extraordinary display.

Flowers of Edgeworthia grandiflora, Edgeworthia chrysantha ‘Red Dragon’ and Edgeworthia ‘Akabana’ are striking when they appear on shoots still naked.

With relatively modest hardiness (-10°C to -15°C), Edgeworthia chrysantha is more accommodating south of the Loire and in oceanic climates, where it will thrive in light shade and in fresh, acidic, fertile soil. Once well established in suitable conditions, Edgeworthia chrysantha requires little maintenance.

Its distinctive silhouette creates attractive focal points in borders, or, in a pot on a terrace, allows best enjoyment of its fragrance. Discover this genuine collector’s bush that brings, as winter ends, an exotic and unique touch, heralding the coming spring.

Description and botany

Botanical data

  • Latin name Edgeworthia
  • Family Thymelaeaceae
  • Common name Paper bush, paperbush, yellow-flowered Edgeworthia
  • Flowering February to April
  • Height 1 to 2 m
  • Sun exposure Sun, partial shade
  • Soil type Neutral, acidic, well-drained
  • Hardiness -10°C to -15°C

Edgeworthia, or “paper bush” is a small bush native to China and the Himalaya, belonging to the family Thymelaeaceae, like its relative Daphne. The genus Edgeworthia includes only three species growing wild in woods or on scrubby mountain slopes.

Edgeworthia chrysantha, or “gold-flowered edgeworthia”, is the only species commonly cultivated in gardens. Clothed in white and golden flowers in the type form, it has given rise to several interesting cultivars such as ‘Red Dragon Akebono’ and ‘Akabana’ with red-orange flowers and the recent ‘Nanjing Gold’. Edgeworthia chrysantha var. grandiflora is an attractive variety with flowers even larger than the typical species.

With rather slow growth, Edgeworthia is a low, unobtrusive bush that gradually spreads to reach on average 1 to 2 m in height and width at maturity. It has a pretty, spreading bushy habit as wide as it is tall and is very ramified from the base. Its very short trunk characteristically divides into three secondary branches. Over time it becomes hidden beneath numerous peripheral twigs, eventually forming a compact bush. This wide ramification bears thick, vigorous but flexible branches with handsome reddish-brown bark.

Edgeworthia is prized for its fabulous winter flowering which dots the tips of bare branches much like witch-hazel or forsythia. From mid-January, sometimes earlier or as late as March depending on the region, flower buds set in delicate silvery bracts appear.

Then, for around a month before the leaves, tubular downy flowers with four spreading lobes open at the ends of bare shoots in globular, semi-pendulous umbels 4–5 cm in diameter, bearing 30–50 flowers. Their calyx is abundantly covered externally with white, silky hairs and encloses short yellow stamens.

Golden yellow, white or red-orange, these silky, scented half-pompoms open from the centre outwards, paling to white so that the inflorescence is bicoloured. Although fairly small (5 mm), their profusion and the heady, spicy, floral perfume reminiscent of jasmine, clove and honeysuckle, which can be smelled up to 5 m away, warm the winter. Non-edible fruits, small drupes with a stone, develop in summer following the flowers on the shoots. Flowering branches that are still bare are much prized in Ikebana floral art.

The deciduous foliage is another asset of Edgeworthia: exotically lush, it takes over after flowering and, while it can last all summer, it tends to fall during heatwaves. It will disappear in autumn. Large alternate, entire, ovate to lanceolate leaves appear after flowering at the top of the stems. Measuring up to 15–20 cm long, they are borne on short, coriaceous petioles, glossy above and slightly velvety beneath. Pale green to dark green or bluish-green, they show well-marked, paler parallel veins.

More demanding than Sarcococca but much less so than Rhododendron, the paper bush is not very difficult to grow… provided its requirements are met. With fairly low hardiness, around -10 to -15°C in sheltered situations, it is easier to grow in regions with relatively mild winters, planted out of spring frosts and shielded from dry, icy winds.

Paper bush

Edgeworthia chrysantha (left photo Nishimoto-Flickr, right photo Kentama-Flickr)

Elsewhere, it can be grown in a pot and brought into a conservatory at the first frosts like citrus plants. It also dislikes heat and should be spared from Mediterranean climates, which are a little too hot and dry in summer. It can therefore only be grown reliably in the open ground in mild, humid climates such as the Atlantic coast.

It dislikes scorching sun and prefers partial shade. It is satisfied with all types of non-calcareous, light, acidic, fresh and well-drained soils. This bush, typical of heather soil, will find its place naturally in the garden alongside Daphne, Camellia, Pieris and Kalmia.

It can be used in mixed borders, as a specimen or in a pot. Its singular silhouette needs its own space and is ideally planted as a specimen in an open spot visible from the house. It will form an attractive focal point in a border. Its slow growth allows container culture.

Also called “Mistumata”, Edgeworthia chrysantha has naturalised in Asia where it is cultivated intensively to produce a luxury paper from its stems, washi. This very strong Japanese paper is used for calligraphy, watercolours or banknotes.

Main species and varieties

Edgeworthia chrysantha (syn. E. papyrifera) is the only species cultivated in our gardens. While the type species bears golden flowers, it has given rise to several cultivars with striking colours. Edgeworthia grandiflora is another variety producing flowers even larger than those of the type species.

Most popular

Our favourite varieties

Edgeworthia chrysantha Red Dragon Akebono - Paperbush

Edgeworthia chrysantha Red Dragon Akebono - Paperbush

An interesting cultivar with orange to red flowers gathered at the tips of naked silvery branches. It tolerates temperatures of -10 to -12°C but is easier to grow in open ground under mild climates.
  • Flowering time March to May
  • Height at maturity 1,20 m
Edgeworthia chrysantha Grandiflora - Paperbush

Edgeworthia chrysantha Grandiflora - Paperbush

A variety larger than the type, both in foliage and in flowers. A collection bush to position near a path or entrance to enjoy its scent.
  • Flowering time March to May
  • Height at maturity 1,50 m

Discover other Edgeworthia

Planting

Where to plant the paper bush or Edgworthia chrysantha

If it withstands temperatures down to around -10 °C, the Edgeworthia is easier to grow in mild climates such as Brittany. As it dislikes excessive heat as much as very strong sun, avoid planting it in a Mediterranean climate that is too hot and dry in summer.

It is best to give it a position in light shade, for example against a south- or west-facing wall, sheltered from cold winds that could dry it out and damage the earliest flowers, which are particularly sensitive to late frosts.

It will therefore do well in a spot that is sunny in the morning but sheltered from direct sun in the afternoon: it still needs as much light as possible in winter in order to flower abundantly.

North of the Loire, opt for container culture, to be stored away at the first frosts, in a conservatory as with orangery plants.

Admittedly it has some requirements, but it is not difficult to cultivate in a light, rather acidic heather soil or turf and well drained. It will thrive in a deep, humus-bearing soil, neither too dry nor too wet. Like rhododendrons and Daphnes, it does not tolerate lime in the soil. The paper bush takes time to establish and will tolerate transplanting very poorly: choose a permanent position for it.

Slow-growing, the paper bush is a compact bush, well suited to small gardens or town gardens.

Its harmonious, exotic appearance should not be hidden: it is ideally planted as a specimen in the centre of a bed against a background of evergreen foliage or in a well-cleared spot, visible from the house, especially since its perfume carries for up to 5 m! It can also be planted in groups of 3 or 5 beneath large deciduous trees or used in a low hedge.

In a pot, in regions with harsh winters, you can also enjoy its magnificent colours and scent on the terrace or near entrances.

When to plant the paper bush or Edgworthia

Planting of the Edgworthia is preferably done after flowering, from September to October or in spring in April–May.

How to plant the paper bush or Edgworthia

In the ground

  • Soak the rootball
  • Dig a wide hole about 30 cm deep and at least 80 cm wide
  • Add heather soil or turf to garden soil if it is calcareous
  • If necessary, add gravel to the bottom of the hole to ensure good drainage
  • Plant the bush, the collar level with the soil
  • Water abundantly then regularly during the first two years to ensure establishment
  • Mulch with dry leaves or plant small perennials to protect the base and reduce watering: it likes its roots kept cool during summer

In a pot

Edgeworthia chrysantha is magnificent in a pot. Choose a large container from the start, as it is a sensitive plant that dislikes repotting. Provide a soil-based, rich, fresh, very free-draining mix.

  • Plant on a draining layer (sand, clay balls) in a mix of loam, potting compost or heather soil
  • Water once or twice a week, taking care to let the compost dry out between waterings
Paper bush

Paper bush (photo nekonomania)

Maintenance, pruning and care

Once well established, paperbush requires little care.

Water regularly once or twice a week, especially during first two years and in prolonged drought.

Mulch witha good organic mulch (dry leaves, hemp…) to keep its roots cool during summer heat.

In spring or autumn, apply compost by shallow raking at its base.

In a pot, water once or twice a week and apply a liquid fertiliser every month between March and August. Water sparingly in winter.

When and how to prune an edgeworthia

Pruning is not necessary for this slow-growing bush, which naturally has an attractive habit. Only prune after flowering, from August to December, to remove any dead or poorly placed shoots and to slightly reduce its size. If transplanting is necessary, cut back to encourage re-establishment.

Edgworthia chrysantha has no known enemies. It is unaffected by most diseases and by attacks from insects or parasitic organisms. If foliage yellows, add heather soil as this indicates soil is probably too calcareous for this acidophilous bush.

Propagate Edgworthia

As Paperbush fruits, you can try sowing, but this is a long, delicate process to get right and we do not recommend it. Instead opt for separation of suckers or propagation by cuttings.

Division

  • In autumn or winter, take suckers from the base that have roots
  • Cut back by about one third
  • Replant immediately in a pot filled with potting compost
  • Keep frost-free in a cool place
  • Plant out in garden in spring

When and how to take cuttings of Paperbush

  • After flowering, in August–September, take semi-woody or semi-ripe shoots 15 to 20 cm long (i.e. stems that are changing from soft wood to hard wood)
  • Remove leaves from lower part of shoots, leaving only two
  • Plant them in a humus-bearing, light and free-draining substrate and cover with plastic
  • Keep moist regularly
  • Place them in buckets as soon as they have formed roots
  • Overwinter frost-free in a bright, cool place
  • Plant out in open ground the following spring

Associate

Still too little known, Edgeworthia or Paperbush deserves recognition in winter scenes on a par with Hamamelis. With its very graphic silhouette and fragrant, colourful flowering, it brings an exotic touch to garden still bare and numbed by cold.

Dress its foot with a carpet of winter heathers, Heucheras and Hellebores or early bulbs such as winter aconite, daffodils, crocuses, lungworts, erythroniums, primulas or tulips to accompany it into spring.

Its golden, white or orange flowers will contrast beautifully with blue of Muscari, hyacinths, Ipheions, scillas…

Its delicate flowers will benefit from being showcased against permanent green backdrop made up of conifers, bushes with evergreen foliage or grasses such as Pennisetum.

Magnificent in early spring, after flowering this bush will adopt a rather unremarkable habit; its summer foliage limits light at its base, so choose some shade-loving perennials, such as Ferns, Omphalodes, Japanese anemones, Bleeding hearts or Foxgloves to surround it.

In a small flowering hedge, it can be paired with winter-flowering bushes such as Hamamelis which will precede it, or spring-flowering ones like Forsythia, which will take over the display.

Edgeworthia appreciates acidic soils, so it can be easily paired with ericaceous plants with evergreen foliage and winter flowering such as Camellia, Pieris, Kalmia, Skimmia, Sarcococca, rhododendrons and azaleas from Japan or other Daphnes.

For colourful winter garden, plant it near one or several ornamental fruit bushes such as ornamental apple and a few dogwoods with colourful wood.

In a large pot, it can be paired with Holly or Euonymus and small spring-flowering bulbs.

→ Discover other pairing ideas with Edgeworthia chrysantha in our care sheet

Useful resources

Frequently asked questions

  • Plusieurs causes possibles. Pour vous aider à diagnostiquer, commencez par observer quelques éléments (en pot ou en pleine terre, saison, motif du jaunissement) — voici les causes les plus fréquentes et les gestes correctifs. Causes et signes distinctifs - Arrosage excessif / mauvais drainage : feuilles jaunes, parfois molles, sol détrempé ou odeur de pourri. - Manque d’eau : feuilles qui jaunissent puis brunissent et deviennent cassantes (surtout en pot ou par temps sec). - Carence nutritive (azote) : jaunissement uniforme des feuilles, croissance ralentie. - Chlorose ferrique (déficit en fer lié à un sol calcaire) : jaunissement entre les nervures avec nervures encore vertes (jaunissement inter‑nervural). - Stress de transplantation / choc racinaire : jaunissement généralisé après rempotage ou déplacement. - Gel ou brûlure du feuillage : bords ou taches brunes sur feuilles après gel ou exposition au vent froid. - Ravageurs ou maladies : présence d’insectes (pucerons, cochenilles), dépôts collants, moisissures ou taches foliaires localisées. - Défaut de luminosité : trop d’ombre (ou inversement, exposition trop forte selon l’espèce) peut provoquer un jaunissement. Remèdes pratiques - Vérifiez le sol : enfoncez le doigt 5–10 cm pour évaluer l’humidité. Si humide en permanence, réduisez les arrosages et améliorez le drainage (sable horticole, mélange plus drainant ou rehaussement du point de plantation). - Si sol compacté ou racines détrempées : déterrez et contrôlez l’état des racines (odeur de pourri, racines noires = pourriture). Taillez les parties mortes et replantez en sol frais si nécessaire. - Manque d’eau : arrosez en profondeur mais moins fréquemment pour encourager l’enracinement. - Carence en fer : si vous suspectez une chlorose, testez le pH du sol ; en sol calcaire, apportez du chélate de fer foliaire ou modifiez l’acidité du sol (amendement acide) selon les besoins. - Carence en azote : apportez un engrais équilibré à libération lente au printemps. - Gel/domages mécaniques : taillez les parties nécrosées au printemps et apportez paillage pour protéger les racines. - Ravageurs : traitez avec savon insecticide ou produit adapté après identification (cochenilles, pucerons). - En pot : assurez‑vous que le pot a des trous d’évacuation et que le substrat n’est pas compacté ; rempotez si la plante est racines‑serrées. Si vous le souhaitez, envoyez : - une photo des feuilles (face et revers), - précision pot ou pleine terre, - fréquence d’arrosage et type de sol, - saison et climat local. Avec ces informations je pourrai vous proposer un diagnostic plus précis et un plan d’action adapté.

    This bush needs rather acidic soil to thrive. It may well be suffering from chlorosis, a sign the soil is too calcareous for it; better to move and replant it in soil enriched with heather soil… if that's still possible, as it hates transplanting.

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