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<em>Trachycarpus</em>, hemp palm: to plant, to grow and to care for

<em>Trachycarpus</em>, hemp palm: to plant, to grow and to care for

Contents

Modified the Sunday 10 August 2025  by Alexandra 13 min.

Trachycarpus in a nutshell

  • Trachycarpus is an elegant palm with a stipe covered in brown fibres
  • It has a majestic silhouette, with its slender, elegant stipe, at the top of which the foliage unfurls
  • Its large, beautiful palmate leaves, fan-shaped, are much admired
  • It is among the hardiest palms, and can be planted in the ground even in cool regions
  • It is resilient and very easy to grow
  • Its single presence immediately brings a lot of exoticism to the garden!

 

Difficulty

A word from our Expert

Also called hemp palm or Chinese windmill palm, the Trachycarpus is a superb hardy palm, possessing a fibrous, straight and slender trunk, atop which majestic palmate leaves unfold. It is one of the most grown palms in the world for its ornamental qualities. The species Trachycarpus fortunei is the most common, but others are interesting to grow, such as Trachycarpus wagnerianus, a little smaller with stiffer leaves. Trachycarpus resembles Chamaerops; it has the same type of palmate foliage. However, it is much taller and more slender, while Chamaerops is small and grows in clumps, sometimes producing many suckers.

Trachycarpus benefits from being very hardy. Capable of withstanding down to -18 °C, it can be planted even in northern France. It is a very versatile palm, adapting to different situations. Compared with other palms, it tolerates shaded locations fairly well — provided shade is not too dense — as well as full sun; it copes with drought and also heavy, wet soils… Trachycarpus is not demanding, although it appreciates some care at planting and during first years.

If you want to know everything about palms and discover many varieties, consult our fact sheet “Palms: Plant, grow and maintain”

Description and botany

Botanical data

  • Latin name Trachycarpus sp.
  • Family Arecaceae
  • Common name Hemp palm, Chinese windmill palm
  • Flowering generally between May and July
  • Height up to 10 m
  • Sun exposure sun or partial shade
  • Soil type ordinary, preferably cool and well-drained, humus-bearing
  • Hardiness -18 °C

Trachycarpus is a majestic palm, with an upright stipe covered in brown fibres, and fan-shaped, dark green foliage. Also called Hemp palm or Chinese windmill palm, it is native to subtropical Asia: notably found east of the Himalayas, in southern China, northern India and Thailand, Myanmar and Nepal. In the wild, it grows in forests, mainly in mountainous regions. It can be encountered up to 2,500 metres altitude. Thus, it tolerates cold well, which has made it one of the most widely cultivated palms in gardens, bringing an exotic touch even to cool regions. Trachycarpus has even become naturalised in parts of Switzerland!

There are nine Trachycarpus species. T. fortunei is one of the most commonly grown palms in gardens in France, probably because it is very hardy, able to withstand down to –18 °C. It has been cultivated in Japan and China for a very long time and was introduced to Europe in the mid-19th century. Less well known, Trachycarpus wagnerianus is also very interesting to grow. It is smaller and has somewhat stiffer leaves.

Etymologically, Trachycarpus owes its name to the Greek trachys: rough, and karpos: fruit. Species name fortunei honours English botanist Robert Fortune (1812–1880), who imported this palm to Europe from China in 1849. Trachycarpus is fairly close to Chamaerops, another fan-leaved palm. In fact, T. fortunei was formerly called Chamaerops excelsa.

Botanical plate depicting a Trachycarpus

Trachycarpus excelsus: Botanical illustration

It obviously belongs to the large family of palms, the Arecaceae, which includes more than 2,500 species. It shares with them a number of characteristics: long, straight, unbranched stipe, topped by large, thick, leathery leaves divided into linear leaflets. Like other palms, Trachycarpus has a majestic, exotic appearance. A single specimen is enough to transform a garden. It instantly evokes travel by its mere presence. Palms are not trees. They do not produce wood, are not branched, and their stipe does not really grow in diameter.

Trachycarpus has an elegant, slim silhouette, very upright. It grows relatively quickly compared with other palms. T. fortunei reaches up to 10 metres in height. T. wagnerianus is smaller, not exceeding 6 m in height, and is better suited to small gardens or pot culture. The smallest species among these palms is Trachycarpus nanus.

Trachycarpus is unbranched but has a single, very straight vertical stipe. At the top of this stipe a crown of leaves unfolds. The stipe becomes tall with time but does not thicken in diameter, unlike true trees. It is covered with brown fibres, which help protect the trunk from cold and drought by forming an insulating layer. They give the stipe a hairy appearance and have decorative value, lending a “rustic” look. Sometimes, on older specimens, this fibrous layer can disappear, revealing a smooth stipe marked by regular rings. Trachycarpus with denuded stipes can be found commercially; however, this fibrous layer plays a protective role for the palm and it is therefore preferable to leave it in place.

The leaves of Trachycarpus are palmate, like those of Chamaerops (whereas other palms have pinnate, feather-like foliage: Butia, Phoenix, etc.). They are fan-shaped, thick, leathery and plicate.

They have between 30 and 50 long, narrow linear segments radiating from the petiole. Leaves of Trachycarpus fortunei measure up to 80 cm in length and are borne on a very long petiole (up to 1 m). This petiole does not bear thorns, which distinguishes it from Chamaerops. The outline of Trachycarpus leaves is relatively rounded, forming an arc pierced by the division of leaflets. The leaves have a majestic, impressive aspect.

Leaves of Trachycarpus wagnerianus are smaller, thicker and stiffer than those of T. fortunei. These characteristics make them more resistant to strong winds.

Leaves are renewed progressively, new ones appearing from the centre of the crown. Old leaves dry and fold down against the trunk, forming a skirt. They help protect the palm from cold.

Leaves of Trachycarpus are generally dark green, however Trachycarpus princeps has bluish fronds. Leaves are evergreen: they remain in place during winter.

Stipe and leaves of a Trachycarpus

Stipe with fibres and foliage of Trachycarpus (photos KENPEI / Vera Buhl)

Like other palms, Trachycarpus has small, rather fine and long roots. They are very different from tree roots and are unlikely to damage structures if the palm is planted nearby, however we nevertheless advise not to plant it too close to a wall; allow it space to develop properly.

Trachycarpus flowers in spring, around June. It then bears large yellow inflorescences, in panicles. These inflorescences appear in the axils of the leaves and remain fairly close to the stipe. They are branched and measure up to 80 cm in length. Female inflorescences are larger and less compact than male ones. The flowers composing the inflorescences are small and very numerous, made up of three sepals and three petals. Male flowers have six stamens, which will release pollen to fertilise female flowers on another plant. Indeed, Trachycarpus is dioecious: each plant is either female (bearing only female flowers) or male. Flowers are bright yellow on male plants and paler, cream-yellow, on female individuals.

Flowers and fruits of a Trachycarpus

Inflorescences and fruits of Trachycarpus fortunei (photo Ji-Elle / Père Igor)

After flowering, on female plants small globose fruits appear, first green then turning bluish-black when ripe. They are numerous and gathered in clusters. They measure up to 1 cm in length, are plentiful and grouped in clusters. They allow the seeds they contain to be dispersed by birds that eat these fruits.

Main Trachycarpus varieties

Most popular varieties

Trachycarpus fortunei - Chinese Windmill Palm

Trachycarpus fortunei - Chinese Windmill Palm

This is the most commonly grown Trachycarpus. It forms a large trunk bearing green, fan-shaped palmate leaves. Impressive, resilient and very hardy, this palm is a safe bet!
  • Flowering time August to October
  • Height at maturity 8 m
Trachycarpus wagnerianus - Dwarf Chusan Palm

Trachycarpus wagnerianus - Dwarf Chusan Palm

It is slightly shorter than Trachycarpus fortunei, and its fronds are smaller and stiffer. It is also very hardy, tolerating down to −16 °C or lower. If you live in a windy area, choose this species rather than T. fortunei.
  • Flowering time July, August
  • Height at maturity 6,50 m
Chusan palm Seeds - Trachycarpus fortunei

Chusan palm Seeds - Trachycarpus fortunei

These seeds will allow you to grow Trachycarpus fortunei. Although it takes more time, it is a cost-effective solution that will allow you to obtain it at very low cost. For best results, consult our sowing advice in the remainder of this page.
  • Flowering time August to October
  • Height at maturity 8 m

Discover other Trachycarpus

Planting

Where to plant Trachycarpus?

Trachycarpus will thrive in sun or partial shade. Contrary to what might be expected, it does not necessarily need full sun… in fact, in its native habitat it tends to grow in forest. If you live in southern France, you can place it in dappled shade; in regions further north, better to plant it in sun. Most important is to avoid deep shade. Place it preferably sheltered from strong winds, which can tear its foliage. However, Trachycarpus wagnerianus, with its smaller, stiffer fronds, is less sensitive than T. fortunei.

It is not particular about soil type, and can grow on most soils. However, it will appreciate a humus-bearing substrate, rich in organic matter, and relatively cool. It also grows well in heavy, clay soils.

You can plant Trachycarpus as a solitary specimen, in a row, or at back of a border. Feel free to install it in a small group of three or five palms to create a small grove.

Trachycarpus can adapt to planting in a large pot or planter, but in that case choose Trachycarpus wagnerianus rather than T. fortunei. However, Trachycarpus prefers to be planted in open ground in garden. As it tolerates down to −18 °C, it can be planted almost anywhere, even if you live in a cold or mountainous region. It adapts to a great diversity of situations: sun or partial shade, cool or drier soil… It’s a palm that can be established in many gardens!

When to plant?

Best time to plant Trachycarpus is spring, around May. This is when temperatures ease and it will have time to establish before facing cold of following winter.

How to plant?

Feel free to plant Trachycarpus in small groups, for example in threes, for a dense, natural effect.

  1. You can start by placing the rootball in a container filled with water to re-wet it and make subsequent watering easier.
  2. Dig a large planting hole, at least twice the volume of the rootball.
  3. If necessary, add draining materials: gravel, coarse sand…
  4. Remove your palm from its pot, gently tease the rootball, then place it into the planting hole.
  5. Backfill with soil around it.
  6. You can make a watering ring by slightly digging around the stipe.
  7. Water generously.

It is best to continue watering in the weeks following planting, while the palm develops its root system.

Trachycarpus fortunei

An avenue of Trachycarpus fortunei at Bambouseraie d’Anduze (photo Georges Seguin)

 

Windmill palm care

Trachycarpus requires very little care. It is not a demanding plant: it tolerates, to some extent, cold, heat, drought and excess water. It can grow in a range of soils, and even accepts growing in shade, provided it is not too dense. If you live in a cold area, during first years you can protect palm from cold by wrapping it in winter fleece or by moving it under cover if potted. Over time it becomes more cold-hardy.

As with many other palms, Trachycarpus copes fairly well with drought. However, it prefers cool soil, which is why we recommend watering during first year, then in periods of drought. Feel free to apply mulch around its base to keep soil cool, using for example ramial chipped wood, wood chips, dead leaves or straw… Generally, Trachycarpus does not usually need fertiliser.

You can prune old dried fronds, however it is preferable to leave them as they provide protection for the palm. If you choose to cut them, do so in spring.

If you grow it in a pot, remember to repot Trachycarpus from time to time into a slightly larger pot, to give it more room and renew its potting compost. Once maximum pot size is reached, you can perform only top-dressing, superficially replacing potting compost in the top few centimetres.

As with other palms, the two main pests that cause problems for Trachycarpus are the moth Paysandisia archon and the red palm weevil. The palm moth lays its eggs near the crown of leaves, then the larvae enter the stipe and consume it from the inside. This causes deformation and perforation of the fronds, which sometimes dry out. This pest causes severe damage to palms, as does the red palm weevil, whose larvae feed on young fronds and the inside of the stipe. It is possible to treat with a nematode-based solution. Do not hesitate to call in a professional.

Propagation: sowing Trachycarpus

It is quite easy to propagate Trachycarpus by sowing seeds. However, expect to wait a long time to obtain attractive specimens with a well-developed stipe. Sow preferably in spring. Fresh seeds germinate more easily and more quickly.

  1. Place seeds in a glass filled with hot water for three days (change water each day).
  2. Prepare a pot with potting compost mixed with a little sand.
  3. Remove seeds from water, rinse, then sow about 1 cm deep.
  4. Press down very lightly.
  5. Water gently.
  6. Place pot under cover at a temperature between 20 and 24 °C, in a bright spot but out of direct sunlight.

Ensure substrate remains slightly moist until germination. Be patient: seeds can take up to three months to germinate. When seedlings are large enough to handle, pot them into individual pots, then after three or four years, in spring, plant young plants out in their permanent position in open ground.

Companion planting in the garden

Trachycarpus is ideal for creating a lush, highly exotic garden corner! Obtain an exotic effect by planting it with other plants with bold, unusual foliage: Gunnera manicata, Persicaria polymorpha, arborescent ferns, Datisca cannabina, etc. These exuberant foliage will help create a beautiful jungle effect! Feel free to plant some climbers, such as Akebia or trumpet vine. You can also add bamboo. For flowering, choose for example Kniphofia, Lantana or Crocosmias. Preferably opt for flowers in warm tones such as yellow, orange or red — shades that catch the eye and bring dynamism to the garden. If you live in the Mediterranean region, you can grow Strelitzia reginae, which offers a remarkable orange-and-blue flowering, its slender petals evoking a bird.

If you want an exotic atmosphere and live in a cool-climate region, note that there are some other hardy palm species: Nannorrhops ritchiana, Rhapidophyllum hystrix, Sabal minor… You can quite happily plant them alongside Trachycarpus. In a similar exotic style, discover arborescent ferns, such as Dicksonia antarctica.

An exotic border with Trachycarpus, Tetrapanax, Crocosmia, Datisca and Kniphofia

An example of a planting combination for an exotic feel: Crocosmia / Trachycarpus and Tetrapanax papyrifera ‘Rex’ / Trachycarpus wagnerianus (photo Simon Thomas) / Datisca cannabina (photo Peganum) / Kniphofia ‘Fiery Fred’

 

Trachycarpus can easily fit into a Mediterranean-style garden. Place it, for example, at the back of a border, behind lavender, Stachys byzantina, euphorbias, sedums… Add colour with helianthums, oleanders, Cistus, Verbena bonariensis, Lantana… Also consider the superb flowering of bougainvillea, a striking climber whose bracts impress with vivid colours. Highly mineral in character, this garden style also has the advantage of being water-wise, quite eco-friendly and low-maintenance.

With its very straight trunk, exotic look and architectural fronds, Trachycarpus will also find a place in a contemporary garden. Plant nearby ornamental grasses such as Pennisetum or Stipa pennata, as well as Agapanthus, Alliums, Ophiopogon planiscapus ‘Nigrescens’, Hostas… Create an atmosphere in fairly neutral, understated tones: purple, black, white, chocolate, silver-grey…

Did you know?

  • Traditional uses

Fibres covering trunk are harvested in China to make ropes, brushes, brooms, sacks and coarse, rough textiles. They are durable and thick.

Useful resources

  • Our Trachycarpus range
  • Discover our full range of palms: Trachycarpus, Chamaerops, Butia, Phoenix, Washingtonia…
  • If you would like more information on palms and how to grow them, see our advice sheet “Palms: planting, growing and care”
  • Discover the website of the association Fous de Palmiers as well as the site of La Palmeraie, with lots of information on palms and their cultivation
  • Our advice sheet: Palms by climate
  • See our tutorial: How to dry a palm leaf?
  • To prevent and treat: Diseases and pests of palms

 

Frequently asked questions

  • Should I cut off old, dried leaves?

    On Trachycarpus palms, the oldest leaves eventually die and dry out while remaining attached, forming a kind of 'skirt' beneath the crown of still-living leaves. You can cut these old leaves for aesthetic reasons to give a 'neat' appearance, but we recommend leaving them in place. Indeed, they form an insulating layer that protects the palm from cold, parasitic attacks and other external threats.

  • Palm fronds are perforated! Why?

    If the holes are regular and in a line, your palm has probably been attacked by the Palm Moth, Paysandisia archon. The female lays her eggs near the crown of leaves, then the larvae enter the stipe and consume it from the inside. This pest causes major damage to several palm species. You can spray a nematode solution, the nematodes being parasitic to the larvae, or call in a professional.

  • Palm fronds are turning yellow. Why?

    Yellowing of foliage is probably caused by excess moisture. Grow it in a more free-draining growing medium and reduce watering. It may also be caused by a deficiency in mineral nutrients. We therefore recommend applying a little fertiliser.

  • Palm fronds are drying out! What can I do?

    If only the outermost, lowest leaves are affected — and the others remain intact — this is a natural phenomenon: the palm simply renews its foliage. However, leaves can also dry out due to lack of water, especially if the bush is potted. Don't hesitate to water during prolonged dry spells. Finally, leaves may also dry out as a result of an attack by red palm weevil or palm moth. Check your palm for signs of infestation (perforated or deformed leaves, sawdust, boreholes...).

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