<em>Tricyrtis</em>, toad lily: planting, cultivation and care
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Tricyrtis in a nutshell
- tricyrtis, or ‘toad lily’, is a small perennial ideal for cool, partly shaded corners of the garden.
- Its star-shaped flowers, speckled with small coloured spots, have orchid-like charm and add an exotic touch to the garden.
- This deciduous, easy-to-grow perennial, fond of partial shade and cool, humus-bearing soil, comes into its own in autumn with unusual, distinctively coloured flowers that open at stem tips.
- Very hardy, tricyrtis can be multiplied via propagation by cuttings in summer or, more easily, by division of clumps in spring.
A word from the expert
Rhizomatous perennial growing wild in East Asia, the Tricyrtis adds an exotic note to the garden both from its oriental origins and its delicate flowering reminiscent of orchids.
From a compact clump, which slowly but surely produces suckers to reach around 60 cm across, emerge stems 60 to 90 cm tall, with an upright habit bearing flowers resembling small orchids.
In summer and autumn, flowers of Tricyrtis, commonly called ‘toad-lily’ or ‘orchid-lily’, are tiny graphic jewels 3 to 4 cm in diameter and star-shaped.
Some show whitish to slightly pink tones punctate with small touches of purple, as in Tricyrtis hirta ‘Miyazaki’. Sometimes ground colour is darker and spotting paler, as with Tricyrtis hirta ‘Raspberry Mousse’.
Foliage is no exception. Glossy, generous, it can be plain green or display unusual colours, such as Tricyrtis hirta ‘Albomarginata’ with its elegant variegation.
All prefer humus-bearing soils that remain cool, and semi-shaded positions. Hardy and easy to grow, it has only slugs and snails as potential enemies.
Description and botany
Botanical data
- Latin name Tricyrtis
- Family Liliaceae
- Common name toad lily, toad-lily, orchid lily
- Flowering summer/autumn
- Height 30 cm to 1 m with 60 cm spread
- Sun exposure partial shade, light shade, non-scorching sun
- Soil type humus-bearing, remaining cool yet well-drained, neutral to acidic
- Hardiness very good (-15°C)
Tricyrtis is a perennial plant native to East Asia, from China, Korea and Japan in the north to Nepal, Taiwan and the Philippines in the south. In its native habitat it is found at forest edges and along watercourses. This perennial grows equally well in Himalayan mountain regions and in subtropical forests. In all cases, it prefers soils that do not dry out in summer.
Although growing from rootstock rather than from bulbs, toad lily belongs to family Liliaceae, alongside fritillaries and tulips. There are around twenty species, including Tricyrtis latifolia (which flowers earlier), Tricyrtis affinis and Tricyrtis ohsumiensis, but the species most commonly used in gardens are Tricyrtis formosana and Tricyrtis hirta.
Deciduous leaves, glossy green with prominent veins, measure about 10 centimetres long and are lanceolate or ovate. Alternate, they are inserted singly along either side of the stem and resemble those of Solomon’s seal. Their petioles are often sheathing. Some varieties, such as Tricyrtis hirta‘Albomarginata’ even display bright foliage marginate with cream-white.
Thanks to slightly running rootstocks, these perennials quickly form attractive clumps around sixty centimetres wide and tall. Some varieties reach 90 cm, such as Tricyrtis formosana. All parts of the plant are pubescent, i.e. covered with a fine down.
Despite its unflattering name, toad lily offers very delicate flowering with a more or less erect habit depending on variety. Depending on species, flowering occurs in summer or autumn. Flowers about 3 cm open in terminal cymes. They comprise three sepals and three petals that open into a star shape. At their base sit three small nectar sacs that gave this lily its Latin name. Tricyrtis comes from Greek ‘tri’ (three) and ‘kyrtos’ (bulge), alluding to these. A central column, called a spur, bears stigmas that echo the same hues and patterns as the tepals.
Some toad lily flowers: Tricyrtis ‘Trojen’, Tricyrtis hirta ‘Miyazaki’, Tricyrtis hirta ‘Taiwan Abdane’ and Tricyrtis hirta ‘Raspberry Mousse’ (photo henryr10)
Some species, such as Tricyrtis macrantha, have fused tepals that give the flower a bell-like appearance similar to campanulate forms.
Flowers of this ‘poor man’s orchid’, as English speakers sometimes call it, are mainly white or pale-yellow, speckled with hundreds of purple dots. Some also show more coloured areas ranging from blue to mauve and pink. The delicacy of the flower deserves close inspection to appreciate fully its beauty, graphic patterns and complexity.
Flowers then produce small cylindrical pods that open to release their tiny round, flattened seeds. Under good growing conditions, sowings will naturally produce new plants whose colours will vary according to natural hybridization.
Different varieties of Tricyrtis
Tricyrtis hirta - Toad Lily
- Flowering time September to November
- Height at maturity 60 cm
Tricyrtis hirta Miyazaki - Toad Lily
- Flowering time September, October
- Height at maturity 60 cm
Tricyrtis hirta Taiwan Abdane - Toad Lily
- Flowering time September to November
- Height at maturity 70 cm
Tricyrtis hirta Raspberry Mousse - Toad Lily
- Flowering time September, October
- Height at maturity 60 cm
Tricyrtis hirta Albomarginata - Toad Lily
- Flowering time October, November
- Height at maturity 60 cm
Tricyrtis formosana - Toad Lily
- Flowering time September to November
- Height at maturity 90 cm
Discover other Tricyrtis - Japanese Toad Lily
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Planting Tricyrtis
Where to plant tricyrtis?
Plant your toad lilies in shaded or part-shaded positions under the canopy of trees or bushes to protect them from heat. They can tolerate a sunnier spot only if substrate does not dry out in summer. Place them in front of borders, in shady rock gardens, or at the edge of a pond or stream.
If soil is too dry or too calcareous, try them in pots too — they adapt very well. Close to house you will easily enjoy all their refinement. They are also perfect to brighten a difficult corner of the garden. Their beautiful late-season star-shaped flowering can also decorate a shaded balcony or terrace.
They primarily prefer deep, light soils rich in organic matter and cool, but will suffer in heavy, clay soils waterlogged in winter. Avoid very calcareous soils and favour slightly acidic to neutral soils.
When to plant?
Plant tricyrtis ideally in autumn if climate is mild and not too wet. Otherwise choose spring. In all cases, plant outside frost periods.
How to plant?
Planting in ground :
- Soak the bucket in a bucket or basin of water for 5–10 minutes. Rootball must be evenly moistened before planting.
- Loosen soil deeply with a digging fork, breaking up any clods. Remove roots of unwanted weeds.
- Add well-rotted compost or decomposed manure. In heavy soil add river-type sand. Mix with original soil.
- Dig a hole three times the size of the bucket (about thirty centimetres in every direction for a 9 cm bucket).
- Remove plant from bucket and position tricyrtis so that collar of the plant (part separating foliage from roots) is level with soil surface. If rootball has no foliage yet, ensure its top is level with soil surface.
- Firm gently with fist and shape a small saucer around plant to maximise water uptake.
- Mulch to a depth of about 5–10 centimetres over roughly 30 cm diameter (dead leaves, linseeds or hemp shreds, ramial chipped wood…) taking care to leave collar exposed. This will keep soil cool, reduce watering and weed growth, and provide humus.
- Water, even if rain is expected, to ensure soil makes good contact with roots.
Toad lily likes consistently cool soil, so water regularly if rainfall is insufficient. For a mass effect, allow 5 young plants per m².
Caring for Tricyrtis
Tricyrtis have few pests. Slugs and snails can sometimes attack young foliage in early spring. Natural and effective methods exist, such as using iron oxide pellets.
If leaves turn brown, it’s very likely soil is too dry. Don’t forget to water, especially during growth and flowering (spring to autumn). This is especially true if you grow them in pots.
Tricyrtis appreciate a mulch at their base. Choose flax or hemp shreds, buckwheat hulls, ramial chipped wood (RCW) or dead leaves. This will help retain good moisture and limit the growth of undesirable herbs. Mulch should be 5 to 10 cm thick over about 30 cm diameter and must not touch the base of the young plant to avoid risk of rot.
It is a deciduous perennial young plant: it dies back completely in winter. In ground, consider marking its presence (for example with a wooden stake) so as not to risk damaging it during early-season tidying.
Around March, add compost and replace mulch if necessary.
Toad lily requires no pruning. You can cut off spent flower stems but you will then have no seeds. If any are still present in early spring, cut them at their base.
Propagating Tricyrtis
Tricyrtis multiply by propagation by cuttings of stems in autumn but clump division in spring remains simplest and most effective solution.
Propagation by cuttings
Propagation by cuttings must be carried out between late spring and summer, when stems have not yet developed their buds.
- Take stem cuttings about ten centimetres long. Tip of cutting should be cut just above a leaf and lower part left bare.
- Push cuttings into a light potting compost (mix with sand if needed) until leaf is level with substrate.
- Keep in a cool, bright place, out of direct sun. Keep potting compost moist
- Plant in final position the following autumn.
Clump division
Unlike some perennials, division of tricyrtis is not obligatory. However, it allows obtaining several plants to plant elsewhere in garden. Carry out in spring, when plant awakens.
- Choose a well-established, well-developed young plant.
- With a spade, cut around the plant (about 30 cm from centre) then lift it.
- Still using spade (well sharpened!), slice through clump to obtain several divisions. Each division must include roots and at least one bud.
- Replant divisions after adding compost. For group plantings, space plants about 30 cm apart, remembering to water and mulch.
Companion planting for Tricyrtis in the garden
Preferring cool, moist soils and dappled light at woodland edge or in understorey, the tricyrtis will pair wonderfully with many plants that require the same growing conditions.
Like jewels, place them preferably at front of borders so you can admire the refined architecture of their flowers.
For a colourful autumn, pair them with late-flowering perennials such as Japanese anemones or with bushes such as Hydrangeas.
An example of a planting combination: Hydrangea arborescens ‘Invincibelle’ and Physocarpus opulifolius ‘Diable d’Or’, Anemone ‘Wild Swan’ and Tricyrtis hirta
Also choose the evergreen foliage and sweet citrus scent of a Mexican orange blossom, which will reward you, after an initial spring flush, with a lovely late-season flowering.
Complete the scene with some ferns with striking form.
You can also play with foliage by using those broad and many‑coloured Hostas or those of Heucheras with inimitable hues.
Another example of a planting combination: Cyrtomium fortunei var. clivicola (to be replaced by Polystichum setiferum ‘Proliferum’, for example in harsher climates), Heuchera ‘Amethyst Mist’, Hosta ‘Blue Ivory’ and Tricyrtis hirta ‘Miyazaki’
The fine, luminous foliage of an ornamental grass such as Hakonechloa will contrast with the broader, darker leaves of tricyrtis. In mild climates you can also choose the incredible orange foliage of Uncinia rubra.
To tie the planting together, dot your border with a few Foxgloves, whose tall, elegant flower spikes will add verticality and rhythm.
The tricyrtis only flower in autumn. To bridge the wait and dress your borders from spring onwards, you can opt for bulbs such as fritillaries or shade-loving perennials like Brunnera macrophylla or Claytonia sibirica.
Did you know?
If its Latin name is tricyrtis, this perennial is commonly called ‘lily-orchid’ because its star-shaped flowers resemble those of orchids.
Japanese call it Hototogisu, a name also given to the cuckoo, a bird whose breast bears markings similar to those on the plant. To Anglo-Saxons it’s the ‘poor man’s orchid’, but tricyrtis has also acquired a far less flattering name. Many indeed call it ‘toad lily’ or ‘frog lily’.
Some say its tendency to grow in cool soil and in shade is the origin of that name, since those are also places where toads like to take refuge.
For others, the speckled colouring of the flowers is reminiscent of the amphibian’s skin.
The Greek origin of the scientific name refers to the swollen nectar sacs at the base of the flowers. Some also see in them a resemblance to the toad.
Finally, a legend claims members of a tribe in the Philippines, the Tasaday, rubbed their hands with the sap of the tricyrtis before setting off to hunt amphibians. The smell was said to attract them and its sticky texture made it easier to catch those slippery-skinned creatures.
No one has yet clarified whether, after a kiss, the toad lily ever turned into Prince Charming, but one thing is certain: tricyrtis will bring princely charm to your shady borders!
USEFUL RESOURCES
- Our toad-lily varieties at a glance!
- Our video tips: Make a slug trap.
- Our video tips: How to plant perennials?
Frequently asked questions
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Why has my Tricyrtis disappeared over winter?
It is normal for this deciduous perennial to disappear in winter. New foliage sometimes does not reappear until April. If, however, it fails to reappear, that is more worrying. tricyrtis is a hardy plant that can withstand temperatures down to about -12°C. But these figures apply to plants grown in suitable conditions. While soil should remain cool during growth, it must not be waterlogged in winter. Furthermore, clay, compact and heavy soils can harm it. Cold is never the only factor to consider when discussing a plant's hardiness.
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My Tricyrtis leaves are browning. What should I do?
Orchid lily prefers soils rich in humus that remain cool. Although it can tolerate a short drought once well established, you must take care not to let soil dry out too much during growth and flowering.
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My Tricyrtis hasn't flowered this year. What's going on?
Tricyrtis is a robust and floriferous plant but can suffer from early frosts that destroy flower buds. Remember it prefers sheltered spots. It may also have suffered from drought during its growth period, resulting in less generous flowering.
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