Rhododendron Markeeta's Prize
Rhododendron Markeeta's Prize
Rhododendron Markeeta's Prize
Rhododendron Markeeta's Prize
Rhododendron 'Markeeta's Prize'
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Description
The Rhododendron ‘Markeeta’s Prize’, a large, late-flowering red rhododendron, excels as a standalone specimen, on the edge of woodland, or in a large heather soil bed. Its large cut flower arrangements of scarlet flowers illuminate shaded areas of the garden in May-June. Its thick, dark green, well-furnished leaf is an ornament even in winter. This is a bush that will not disappoint in an oceanic climate, in acidic soil. This hybrid is highly favoured by collectors and amateur gardeners alike.
Belonging to the Ericaceae family, this ‘Markeeta’s Prize’ cultivar is a hybrid obtained in the United States by Markeeta Nursery around 1967–1968, through the cross-breeding of ‘Loderi Venus’ and ‘Anna’. ‘Loderi Venus’ itself originates from R. fortunei ssp. fortunei and R. griffithianum, known respectively for contributing fragrance, vigour and hardiness, and very large flowers; ‘Anna’ descends from ‘Norman Gill’ and ‘The Honourable Jean-Marie de Montague’.
The habit of this rhododendron is upright and bushy, its growth is fairly rapid. In open ground, it reaches 1.50 to 2 m in height in 10 years. The bush grows up to 3 m at ripeness, with a spread of 1.80 m to 2.50 m. The flowers, gathered in wide corymbs of about 12 to 15 corollas, open scarlet red with a darker maculate at the throat. The flowering occurs from late May to early June. The leaf is evergreen, thick and dark green, leathery. The root system is very shallow, fine and fibrous, sensitive to compaction and drought. The hardiness of this cultivar is of the order of −18 °C, with several references indicating up to −21 °C in a sheltered situation and suitable soil.
A light shade also helps preserve the colour of the flowers, which can fade in full sun. Reports of Pestalotiopsis exist on certain red cultivars, including ‘Markeeta’s Prize’, in stressful situations: ensure good air circulation around the leaf, avoid overhead watering, and collect affected leaves.
Use the Rhododendron ‘Markeeta’s Prize’ as the centrepiece of a heather soil bed or install it on the edge of a cool woodland. You can associate it with Kalmias and Enkianthus and colourful Heucheras as groundcover. To create a coherent spring scene, pair it with 3 or 4 rhododendrons of comparable stature and with staggered flowering periods: Rhododendrons ‘Sappho’, Rh. ponticum 'Variegatum' and Rh. catawbiense 'Grandiflorum' for example.
Rhododendron Markeeta's Prize in pictures
Plant habit
Flowering
Foliage
Botanical data
Rhododendron
'Markeeta's Prize'
Ericaceae
Cultivar or hybrid
Planting and care
Plant the Rhododendron 'Markeeta's Prize' in a partially shaded position, sheltered from cold, drying winds. It requires a cool, humus-bearing, light, and acidic soil. Like all ericaceous plants, it cannot tolerate chalky soils, dry soils, or heavy soils that become waterlogged in winter. If the soil remains cool in summer, this rhododendron will also tolerate exposure to morning sun. Avoid planting at its base, as its shallow roots do not cope well with competition from other plants, particularly for water resources.
Dig a hole three times the volume of the pot. Soak the root ball in water (non-chalky) and plant the bush at collar level, in a mixture composed of 1/4 turf, leaf mould, gravel or pumice, and topsoil. Water generously and keep the soil cool in summer. Azaleas and Rhododendrons have a relatively shallow root system. Consequently, they are susceptible to long periods of drought. This is why enriching the soil with humus and providing ample watering during dry spells is recommended. Furthermore, this root system is not very robust, which is why it is essential to lighten heavy soils with draining materials (gravel, pumice, clay pebbles) at planting time. Apply a mulch of shredded pine bark at the base of the bush every spring to retain soil moisture while maintaining an acidic pH.
Maintenance consists of removing spent flowers in summer and clearing away dead branches. Azaleas and Rhododendrons can sometimes be attacked by vine weevils, which eat the edges of leaves and rootlets, as well as by the notorious 'rhododendron leafhopper', which does not often cause severe damage. Effective organic solutions are now available against vine weevils. Yellowing of the leaves (chlorosis) in Rhododendron indicates poor iron assimilation in the soil and leads to premature death of the plant. Action can be taken by applying chelated iron diluted in the watering water. However, while chalk is usually the cause, poorly drained soil or a root ball planted too deeply can also explain the phenomenon.
'Rhodos' truly thrive in our Breton and Norman climates, planted in soil free from chalk and in a humid atmosphere. Their cultivation in our warmer and drier climates is generally doomed to failure in the long run, despite all efforts to acclimatise them.
Planting period
Intended location
Care
Planting & care advice
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Hardiness is the lowest winter temperature a plant can endure without suffering serious damage or even dying. However, hardiness is affected by location (a sheltered area, such as a patio), protection (winter cover) and soil type (hardiness is improved by well-drained soil).
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The flowering period indicated on our website applies to countries and regions located in USDA zone 8 (France, the United Kingdom, Ireland, the Netherlands, etc.)
It will vary according to where you live:
- In zones 9 to 10 (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), flowering will occur about 2 to 4 weeks earlier.
- In zones 6 to 7 (Germany, Poland, Slovenia, and lower mountainous regions), flowering will be delayed by 2 to 3 weeks.
- In zone 5 (Central Europe, Scandinavia), blooming will be delayed by 3 to 5 weeks.
In temperate climates, pruning of spring-flowering shrubs (forsythia, spireas, etc.) should be done just after flowering.
Pruning of summer-flowering shrubs (Indian Lilac, Perovskia, etc.) can be done in winter or spring.
In cold regions as well as with frost-sensitive plants, avoid pruning too early when severe frosts may still occur.
The planting period indicated on our website applies to countries and regions located in USDA zone 8 (France, United Kingdom, Ireland, Netherlands).
It will vary according to where you live:
- In Mediterranean zones (Marseille, Madrid, Milan, etc.), autumn and winter are the best planting periods.
- In continental zones (Strasbourg, Munich, Vienna, etc.), delay planting by 2 to 3 weeks in spring and bring it forward by 2 to 4 weeks in autumn.
- In mountainous regions (the Alps, Pyrenees, Carpathians, etc.), it is best to plant in late spring (May-June) or late summer (August-September).
The harvesting period indicated on our website applies to countries and regions in USDA zone 8 (France, England, Ireland, the Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...) fruit and vegetable harvests are likely to be delayed by 3-4 weeks.
In warmer areas (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), harvesting will probably take place earlier, depending on weather conditions.
The sowing periods indicated on our website apply to countries and regions within USDA Zone 8 (France, UK, Ireland, Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...), delay any outdoor sowing by 3-4 weeks, or sow under glass.
In warmer climes (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), bring outdoor sowing forward by a few weeks.