Parsley: sowing, planting, growing

Botany

parsley (Petroselinum sativum L.) is a biennial herbaceous plant that belongs, like carrot, parsnip, and fennel, to the large family of umbellifers or Apiaceae.

The most well-known are flat-leaf parsley and curly parsley (Petroselinum sativum var. crispum) consumed for their aromatic leaves enhancing the flavour of dishes. More obscure, tuberous parsley (Petroselinum crispum radicosum) is cultivated for its root and its foliage (less aromatic), it is cultivated like carrot. Parsley plants reach on average 30 cm tall the first year, although there are smaller dwarf varieties. The flower stems carry them to 60 cm in the second year.

The leaves of parsley are bright green, divided into three leaflets and then into deeply lobed sections. The second year after sowing, parsley produces, from spring onwards, flowering stems bearing umbels of tiny yellowish-green to white flowers. Pollination is described as entomophilous, it requires the presence of insects for the transport of pollen. Insects are very attracted to the nectar and pollen of parsley. At the end of summer, it goes to seed and small brown seeds then appear.

In ancient Greece, parsley symbolised strength, appetite, and joy of life. It was also adored by the Romans who introduced it to the countries of the Empire where they primarily cultivated it for decoration. It fell out of favour in the Middle Ages where it was associated with death and poor harvests.

The main varieties of parsley

Il existe de nombreuses variétés de persil. Elles se distinguent par l’aspect de leur feuillage (plat ou frisé) mais aussi par leur taille et leur port, plus ou moins compact.

Curly or flat-leaf parsley, rather than choosing, grow both!

Flat-leaf parsley varieties

Curly parsley varieties

Tuberous parsley varieties

Original variety to discover

Flat Parsley Seeds - Petroselinum crispum

Common parsley or flat-leaf parsley is the one that is usually consumed in dishes. It is decorative and has a stronger flavour than curly parsley. It produces large, loose, dark green leaves that are very notched and form rosettes.

• Flowering time February
• Height at maturity 70 cm

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Flat-Leaved Parsley Amsterdam

Classic variety, very easy to grow, which has the advantage of growing quickly and in all soils.

• Height at maturity 60 cm

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Parsley Giant of Italy

Tall variety of 50 cm, with larger leaves than common flat-leaf parsley. Fragrant variety. Grows well in pots.

• Height at maturity 60 cm

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Laura Flat-leaf Parsley

Flat-leaf variety, Giant of Italy type, with strong growth and large, well-cut leaves. Its habit is compact and its aroma is more powerful and subtle than the standard variety. It is harvested from April until the first frosts and even longer if grown in pots.

• Height at maturity 60 cm

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Curly Parsley Alto - Vilmorin Seeds

Tall variety of 40 cm with glossy dark green frizzy foliage, very productive and cold-resistant. A Vilmorin selection.

• Height at maturity 40 cm

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Curly Parsley Bravour

Rather low variety, quite compact, particularly tolerant of cold. Its regrowth rate is exceptional, allowing it to have a good yield over a particularly long harvest period.

• Height at maturity 30 cm

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Champion Curly Parsley

Fine and frizzy variety, quite compact, particularly tolerant of cold. Its regrowth rate is good, allowing it to have a good yield over a long period.

• Height at maturity 30 cm

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Petroselinum crispum Frisé vert foncé

The Grüne Perle variety produces glossy dark green foliage with very fine frizz. It is cold-resistant and regrows quickly after harvest.

• Height at maturity 20 cm

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Petroselinum crispum Lisette

Dwarf variety, maximum height of 25 cm, perfectly suited for pot cultivation and very cold-resistant. Very frizzy, moss-type, making its foliage exceptionally compact and dense.

• Height at maturity 25 cm

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Parsley Moss Curled

Dwarf variety, maximum height of 25 cm, which can be grown both in the garden and in pots. Compact, it produces dense, very frizzy and cut foliage, resembling moss.

• Height at maturity 25 cm

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Hamburg Parsley - Turnip-rooted Parsley

Variety producing a large white taproot, 12 to 20 cm long. This parsley is grown for its leaves but especially for this root, similar to a parsnip or white carrot, with a slight nutty taste.

• Height at maturity 60 cm

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Hamburg Parsley Pietruzska - Turnip-rooted Parsley

Parsley variety that develops a large whitish root of about 15 cm. Fleshy, it is consumed like parsnip or celery. Its leaves are used like classic parsley. To be grown like carrot.

• Height at maturity 40 cm

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Mitsuba Parsley - Ferme de Sainte Marthe Seeds

Mitsuba parsley, also known as Japanese parsley, is a different genus, its Latin name is Cryptotaenia japonica. It is a herbaceous perennial condiment plant, reaching 50 cm in height. It stands out for its remarkable but milder flavour and crunchy texture. Its stems are long and its leaves resemble the shape of clover. It is used in the same way as flat-leaf or curly parsley.

• Height at maturity 50 cm

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Sowing parsley

Parsley is not a plant that rushes to germinate; it typically takes an average of 20 days for germination at an average temperature of 20°C. This duration can extend up to a month at lower temperatures. To speed up germination, it is advisable to

Sowing can be done in various ways: in buckets, plug plants, or directly in the soil.

Sowing in buckets or plug plants

Preparing your young plants is the easiest way to control the germination of parsley seeds. This method also reduces the chore of thinning. Sowing in buckets is done from March onwards in an unheated shelter. The optimal temperature for germination is 20°C (15°C minimum).

To sow in buckets or plug plants:

• Start by filling your containers or preparing your plug plants using a good seed sowing compost,
• Moisten the substrate properly without soaking it excessively,
• Place three or four seeds per bucket or small plug,
• Cover with a thin layer of compost (or sand),
• Water gently using a spray bottle,
• Repeat this last operation until germination: the substrate must always remain moist.

Your parsley young plants can be planted in the ground as soon as they have at least two true leaves in addition to the cotyledons present at germination.

Sowing parsley in plug plants: 1) the seeds are soaked in water before being sown – 2) the plug plants are sprayed – 3) germination begins after just 8 days – 4) a few weeks later, the parsley is ready to be transplanted into the garden

Sowing in the ground

Direct sowing in the ground is generally done in April and May. It also has advantages: it is quick and prevents disturbing the roots during transplanting.

To sow in the ground:

• Rake to break up the last clumps and create a fine seedbed,
• Perform a first watering to moisten the soil well,
• Sow your seeds in the desired location, ensuring not to sow too many,
• Cover with a thin layer of soil or compost,
• Water gently using a watering can to avoid disturbing the seeds,
• Mark the sowing location with a label,
• Keep the soil moist until germination,
• Continue to water until the young plants are well established, as they are vulnerable to water shortages.

If you have sown too many seeds, you may need to thin your sowing: find out how to proceed in our advice sheet “Thinning of sowings.”

Tip: to maintain soil moisture, you can cover the sowing with a textile, such as burlap, until germination.

→ Also read Alexandra’s tips in the tutorial How to sow parsley?

Planting parsley, in the garden or in pots

Planting parsley in the garden

Parsley plants are installed in the garden at the end of April, once the last severe frosts have passed. If the plants are from your sowing, you will generally plant them two or three months after sowing or earlier if they are well ramified and reach a good ten centimetres.

When planting, maintain a spacing of 25 cm between two plants or two clumps of a few plants.

As with sowing, planting is done in loosened and weeded soil. To plant your parsley plants:

• Dig a hole that matches the size of the plant,
• Place your parsley plant,
• Fill the gaps with soil,
• Proceed with an initial watering.

Planting parsley in the garden

Planting parsley in a pot

Growing parsley in a pot, on a balcony or on a windowsill, is entirely possible. It is even very practical to have it always within reach.

To plant parsley in a pot:

• Place some gravel or clay balls at the bottom of a pot to facilitate drainage.
• Fill the pot with good potting soil,
• Loosen, if necessary, the roots of your plant,
• Adjust the root ball in its new container by adding pre-moistened potting soil.
• Water them and shade them from the sun with an overturned crate until the plants have established well.

Note: Plants grown in pots need regular watering; the potting soil must always remain moist!

→ Learn more about growing parsley in a pot

Cultivation, maintenance and watering

Parsley thrives in a wide range of soil but prefers humus-bearing, well-drained, and relatively cool soils. It can also be grown in pots. In the garden, it is planted, whether from seeds or young plants, in soil that has been previously loosened and well-weeded. To do this, loosen the soil using a broad fork or a spading fork, taking care to remove any potential herbs.

Parsley does not require special maintenance unless the summer turns out to be dry. In this case, regular watering will be necessary to prevent it from dying. Be particularly vigilant if you are growing your parsley in a pot or if your soil is predominantly sandy and does not retain moisture.

A nutritive mulch made of dried grass clippings or even adventive plants (formerly known as “weeds”) pulled from around will be most beneficial for maintaining soil moisture, protecting it, and providing natural fertilisation.

→ Learn how to properly store your parsley in our tutorial!

Mulching the base of parsley plants helps to retain good moisture in the soil

Companion planting

Generally in the vegetable garden, Apiaceae and Alliaceae protect each other from their respective pests. A well-known association is the carrot, which repels the onion fly, and the onion, which repels the carrot fly. Thus, when these two plants are grown near each other, a protective synergy against pests occurs. Parsley, let us remember, is part of the Apiaceae family and will appreciate the proximity of onion, leek, chives, etc. It will also enhance the fragrance of roses. However, avoid growing parsley near other Apiaceae (carrot, celery, parsnip, fennel, coriander, etc…)

From a practical standpoint, in a family vegetable garden, it is rare to grow entire ranks of parsley. It is preferable to reserve a spot at the end of the flower bed or a small square for this unique herb.

A few parsley plants at the end of the flower bed are enough for regular and generous harvests – It is associated here with chives

Harvest and storage

Harvesting Parsley

Parsley can be harvested from the first year, usually three months after sowing, as soon as the young plants are about 15 cm tall. This continues, if your regional climate allows, until November or December. Harvesting can be done directly with scissors or by pinching the stems, as needed for cooking.

Always start the harvest by picking the outer leaves first without cutting the central shoot, which stimulates the plant and encourages the formation of new shoots.

To continue producing leaves in the second year, cut the flower stems in spring to force the plants to produce leaves, unless you decide to save seeds.

Storing Parsley

Parsley is best consumed fresh, picked as needed. However, it often happens that more is harvested than is immediately required. Rather than letting it go straight to compost, here are some storage tips:

• If you plan to use it within the week, simply place the stems in a glass filled with water. If you remember, change the water every couple of days to prevent the leaves from yellowing too quickly.
• To continue enjoying your parsley in winter, it is also possible to freeze it. To do this, wash it and then let it dry thoroughly. Gather the stems into bundles and place them in a freezer bag.
• If you prefer to let it dry, wash the branches, pat them dry carefully, and then hang the bunches upside down in a dry, ventilated place. When the branches become brittle, crumble them and transfer to an airtight container protected from light.

Producing Your Own Parsley Seeds

At the end of the first year of cultivation, it is quite possible to keep your parsley plants. Being a biennial plant, it will produce its flower spikes in the second year of cultivation, you can then take the opportunity to harvest some leaves but mainly collect your own seeds.

From the end of summer, in August-September of the second year, the umbels will dry out and the seeds will detach. Seeds are harvested by rubbing the umbels between your fingers to release them. It is also possible to cut the umbels and continue drying them in a ventilated area until the seeds easily fall off.

Another approach is simply to let the seeds self-sow. They will germinate at the end of summer in the second year or as early as spring of the following year. This method is not recommended for gardeners who prefer neatness in their flower beds, but it is quite relevant in a natural garden or permaculture approach.

If you are growing several varieties of parsley, it is best to let only one variety go to seed each year to avoid hybridization with other varieties. It is also advisable not to let celery go to seed in the same year, as it can hybridize with parsley. You can add a selection criterion by removing the weakest or sickly plants. Finally, when harvesting the seeds, only keep the main umbels, those with the most nutritional reserves that will germinate better.

Parsley seeds, ready to be harvested

Uses and Benefits of Parsley

Using Parsley in Cooking

Parsley is versatile in cooking, having a pot of parsley always on hand is a great culinary asset!

It is often included in bouquets garnis alongside thyme, bay leaf, and rosemary. Pair it with garlic and olive oil and you get the famous persillade that can enliven any vegetable dish. It is also frequently used as a decorative element on plates (can we imagine devilled eggs without parsley?). It can be finely chopped and added to dishes at the end of cooking, just off the heat. This way, you avoid losing its flavour and denaturing its vitamins.

Tubers of parsley, on the other hand, are used in soups.

Conservation and preparation of parsley

The Benefits of Parsley

Parsley promotes elimination and thus supports good digestion. To take advantage of these properties, you can prepare parsley tea by chopping the equivalent of a teaspoon of leaves per cup of boiling water. Let it steep for 5 minutes and strain before drinking.

In addition to its aromatic taste, parsley is a plant with many virtues:

• It prevents anaemia as it is rich in vitamins and minerals. Notably, it has a very high content of vitamins C and A: 100 g of raw parsley contains four times more vitamin C than 100 g of an orange and four times the daily required dose of vitamin A. To fully benefit from these vitamins, however, it is important to avoid denaturing them during cooking
• It is a good stimulant for the nervous system
• It has a detoxifying and diuretic effect that promotes elimination.
• It accelerates the onset of menstruation and regulates the menstrual cycle
• It is also an effective plant for combating bad breath.