Iris sibirica Sparkling Rose
Iris sibirica Sparkling Rose
Iris sibirica Sparkling Rose
Iris sibirica Sparkling Rose
Iris sibirica Sparkling Rose
Iris sibirica Sparkling Rose
Siberian Iris
He didn't survive, the delay was very long with the delivery service, they delivered it to me rotten :(
Kenny S., 20/11/2020
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Description
The 'Sparkling Rose' Siberian Iris offers graceful pink-purple flowers with blue reflections, veined with bronze and violet in May-June. This very striking plant forms a vigorous clump of vertical, bright green, slender leaves that remain beautiful for many months. A plant for wet and sunny banks, this iris adapts to well-worked ordinary soil as long as it is not too dry and requires little maintenance.
The 'Sparkling Rose' Siberian Iris is a rhizomatous and deciduous perennial plant that forms upright clumps starting from spring. It belongs to the Iridaceae family. It is one of the many cultivars obtained from the Siberian Iris, native to Central Europe, Eastern Europe, and Turkey but absent from Siberia, and from the Iris sanguinea found in China, Siberia, Japan, Manchuria, and Korea. This iris will reach a height of 80cm (32in), 1m (3ft) when in bloom, and the clump will spread over 50cm (20in). Its growth is moderate, slower than that of the German Iris. The 'Sparkling Rose' Siberian Iris has an elegant upright habit with dense clumps. The foliage consists of long, narrow, bright green leaves with prominent veins. In late spring and early summer, the flower stems project above the foliage, bearing 3 sepals and 3 petals that arrange themselves and succeed each other from the tip of the stem to the lower branches. They are delicately tinted with pink-purple, marked with blue in the throat, and veined with bronze and darker violet. This iris propagates through rhizomes.
The 'Sparkling Rose' Siberian Iris tolerates a moist location, such as on a bank near water, as long as it is not permanently submerged. It can also be grown in ordinary garden soil, with mulch and watering every 15 days in summer. It prefers an acidic to neutral (pH 4.5 to 8), rich, and well-drained soil. Clayey, chalky, or sandy soil can be improved by adding a good amount of humus (well-decomposed organic matter). Alkaline soil can be slightly acidified by adding ericaceous soil, pine needles, or sulfur. Siberian irises need a sunny location to flower, with at least 6 hours of daily sunlight. In the hottest regions, light shading during the hottest hours can be beneficial. It is best to plant during the dormant period, from late September to mid-April, outside the freezing weather. In warm climates, it should be planted in September. In regions with cold winters, on the other hand, planting should be done at the beginning of vegetation growth, in late March or April. (They will only flower the following year). Planting in August can be an alternative. Plant Siberian iris rhizomes at a depth of 3-5cm (1-2in). Siberian irises can remain in place without division for longer than bearded irises. They should only be divided every 5 to 10 years when the clump no longer flowers in the centre or forms a crown. Sufficient space should be provided for the clumps to develop. They can be fertilised with an NPK 10-10-10 fertiliser at the start of vegetation growth and after flowering in June. On young clumps, systematically remove faded flower stalks to prevent exhaustion. On well-established clumps, remove the stalks to prevent spontaneous seedlings that are not true to the parent plant.
After autumn frost, the yellowed foliage can be cut back to 3-5cm (1-2in) above the ground (and left in place as mulch). Alternatively, this dry foliage can be left during winter as an "architectural" element in the garden. It is then cut back only at the end of winter, in late February, before the new leaves emerge.
By a pond or stream, or simply in very moist soil, the 'Sparkling Rose' Siberian Iris is irreplaceable. It can also be used in any type of non-arid garden. Its grace is perfect for romantic gardens, English gardens, and other mixed borders. In wet soil, it can be associated with summer snowflakes, camassias, poet's daffodils, montbretias, crinums, daylilies, astilbes, delphiniums, columbines, corydalis, phlox, asters, herbaceous peonies, and lady's mantle.
The wild Siberian Iris (Iris sibirica L.) is an endangered and protected species that must be respected. Horticultural Siberian irises are hybrids of different species in the Sibiricae series (I. sanguinea, etc.). Their flowers are larger than those of wild forms and come in various colours. Several hundred named cultivars are registered.
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Iris sibirica Sparkling Rose in pictures
Flowering
Foliage
Plant habit
Botanical data
Iris
sibirica
Sparkling Rose
Iridaceae
Siberian Iris
Russia
Planting and care
The 'Sparkling Rose' Siberian iris tolerates a wet location, for example on a riverbank, as long as it is not permanently submerged. It can also be grown in ordinary garden soil, with mulching and watering every 15 days in summer. It prefers an acidic to neutral soil (pH 4.5 to 8), rich and well-drained. A soil that is too clayey, too chalky or too sandy can be improved by adding a good amount of humus (well-decomposed organic matter). An alkaline soil can be slightly acidified by adding ericaceous soil, pine needles, or sulphur. Siberian irises need a sunny location to bloom, with at least 6 hours of daily sunlight. In the hottest regions, light shading during the hottest hours may be beneficial. It is best to plant during the resting period, from late September to mid-April, outside of freezing weather. In hot climates, planting can be done in September. In regions with cold winters, planting should be done at the beginning of vegetation growth, in late March or April. (They will only bloom the following year). Planting in August can be an alternative. Plant Siberian iris rhizomes at a depth of 3-5cm (1-2in). Siberian irises can remain in place without division for longer than bearded irises. They should only be divided every 5 to 10 years, when the clump no longer blooms in the centre or forms a crown. Sufficient space should be provided for the clumps to develop well. Fertilisation can be done using an NPK 10-10-10 type fertiliser at the start of vegetation growth and after flowering in June. On young clumps, systematically cut off faded flower stalks to prevent exhaustion. On well-established clumps, remove the flower stalks to prevent spontaneous seedlings of non-true-to-type seedlings. After autumn frosts, yellowing foliage can be cut back to 3-5cm (1-2in) from the ground (and left in place as mulch). On the contrary, this dry foliage can be left during the winter as an "architectural" element in the garden. It is then only cut back at the end of winter, in late February, before the new leaves start to grow.
Planting period
Intended location
Care
Planting & care advice
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Hardiness is the lowest winter temperature a plant can endure without suffering serious damage or even dying. However, hardiness is affected by location (a sheltered area, such as a patio), protection (winter cover) and soil type (hardiness is improved by well-drained soil).
In temperate climates, pruning of spring-flowering shrubs (forsythia, spireas, etc.) should be done just after flowering.
Pruning of summer-flowering shrubs (Indian Lilac, Perovskia, etc.) can be done in winter or spring.
In cold regions as well as with frost-sensitive plants, avoid pruning too early when severe frosts may still occur.
The harvesting period indicated on our website applies to countries and regions in USDA zone 8 (France, England, Ireland, the Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...) fruit and vegetable harvests are likely to be delayed by 3-4 weeks.
In warmer areas (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), harvesting will probably take place earlier, depending on weather conditions.
The sowing periods indicated on our website apply to countries and regions within USDA Zone 8 (France, UK, Ireland, Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...), delay any outdoor sowing by 3-4 weeks, or sow under glass.
In warmer climes (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), bring outdoor sowing forward by a few weeks.
The planting period indicated on our website applies to regions in USDA Zone 9a (East Coast and Midlands: Dublin, Wexford, Waterford, Kilkenny, Portlaoise). It will vary depending on where you live:
- On the west coast and in the north-west (Galway, Limerick, Sligo, Donegal, Westport), delay planting by 1 to 2 weeks in spring and bring it forward by 1 to 2 weeks in autumn compared to the dates given, preferably choosing periods without strong winds.
- In the inland hills and plateaus (Wicklow Mountains, Macgillycuddy’s Reeks, Connemara, Killarney), it is best to plant in spring (April–May) or autumn (September–October), avoiding periods of waterlogged soil in winter and strong winds, which pose the main risk to newly planted trees in these areas.
The flowering period indicated on our website applies to regions in USDA Zone 9a, such as the East Coast and Midlands, including Dublin, Wexford, Waterford, Kilkenny and Portlaoise.
This will vary depending on where you live:
- On the west coast and in the northwest (Galway, Limerick, Sligo, Donegal and Westport), it will be delayed by one to two weeks compared to the given dates, due to stronger Atlantic winds and less spring sunshine.
- In the inland hills and plateaus (the Wicklow Mountains, the Macgillycuddy's Reeks, Connemara and Killarney), flowering will be delayed by two to three weeks. Flowering mainly occurs between May and July, with the limiting factors being less frost and more of the excessive humidity, strong winds and lack of sunshine that are characteristic of these areas.
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