Archontophoenix: Planting, Growing and Caring

Botany

Archontophoenix comprises 6 species of palm trees native to the rainforests of Australia’s east coast. Unfortunately, they are not hardy, with most unable to tolerate temperatures below freezing (around 0 °C to – 2 °C). However, they adapt well to container cultivation and can be grown in a cold greenhouse or conservatory. The species Archontophoenix cunninghamiana is one of the hardiest, tolerating temperatures down to – 4 °C, making it suitable for outdoor planting along the Mediterranean coast.

Archontophoenix belongs to the large palm family, Arecaceae. They are not technically trees as they do not form wood or branches, nor do they branch out – botanically speaking, they are more like giant herbs. They don’t increase much in diameter, only in height. The “trunk” of palms is called a stipe; it consists of the base of petioles that accumulate as the palm grows.

The name Archontophoenix comes from the Greek arkhon, meaning “chief” or “sovereign”, and phoenix, referring to the date palm. In French it is nicknamed “Palmier royal” (King Palm), but this name also refers to Roystonea regia, another majestic palm with which it is sometimes confused!

The species Archontophoenix cunninghamiana was named in honour of Allan Cunningham, an English botanist who collected many plants in Australia and sent them to the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew. Archontophoenix alexandrae was dedicated to Princess Alexandra of Denmark. As for Archontophoenix maxima, it owes its name to its great size, as it can reach up to 30 m tall under ideal conditions, making it the largest of the Archontophoenix!

Archontophoenix forms a solitary, slender and elegant stipe, often wider at the base. The largest specimens can reach 25-30 m in height at maturity when grown outdoors in very mild climates. Generally, in our latitudes they do not exceed 5 m in height. The stipe is marked by horizontal striations, leaf scars that form very decorative rings. Above these rings and below the crown of leaves, the stipe is swollen and green in colour. The stipe can measure up to 30 cm in diameter.

The pinnate leaves of Archontophoenix alexandrae, with silvery-grey undersides; those of Archontophoenix cunninghamiana, and the filaments that sometimes extend from its leaves (photos: Alejandro Bayer Tamayo / Pancrat)

At the top of the stipe, Archontophoenix displays large pinnate leaves (feather-shaped), beautifully arched. They can measure up to 3 m long and give the palm a very lush, exotic style. They consist of a central axis, extending the petiole, with pinnae arranged on either side. The leaves of Archontophoenix alexandrae are green on top and silvery-grey underneath, while those of Archontophoenix cunninghamiana are entirely green. The pinnae of the latter are sometimes extended by long filaments that droop towards the ground.

Archontophoenix flowers in summer, usually in July-August. They then bear branched, pendulous panicles that appear just below the crown of leaves. They consist of small creamy-white, yellow, pink or lilac flowers depending on the species. Each flower is either male, with stamens, or female, with a pistil. The female flowers mature after the male ones, which limits the risks of self-pollination.

The flowers are followed by the appearance of generally red, very decorative berries. They are ovoid and measure between 1 and 1.5 cm in diameter. Each fruit contains a single seed. In their natural habitat in Australia, the fruits are eaten by birds and bats, which help disperse the seeds.

The ringed stipe of Archontophoenix cunninghamiana, bearing a lilac-coloured inflorescence (others having finished flowering); the red fruits of Archontophoenix, and the seeds they contain (photo: Forest & Kim Starr).

The main varieties of Archontophoenix

The Most Popular Varieties

Archontophoenix alexandrae - Alexandra Palm

This is a superb palm with a slender trunk, bearing large pinnate and arched leaves, green on top and silvery underneath. Its foliage is slightly denser than that of Archontophoenix cunninghamiana, and its leaves are a bit stiffer. Once mature, it produces creamy-white flowers in summer.

• Flowering time August, September
• Height at maturity 5 m

See the product sheet

Archontophoenix cunninghamiana - Piccabeen Palm

Nicknamed the King Palm, Archontophoenix cunninghamiana is a very beautiful palm with finely divided leaves, green on both sides. Its flowers are violet-lilac. Hardy down to -4°C, it is the hardiest species, making it suitable for outdoor cultivation along the Mediterranean coast.

• Flowering time August, September
• Height at maturity 20 m

See the product sheet

Archontophoenix maxima - Walsh River Palm

This majestic palm, the tallest of the Archontophoenix, bears large green leaves at the top of its trunk, with silvery reflections underneath. Once mature, it also produces creamy-white flowers in summer.

• Flowering time August, September
• Height at maturity 30 m

See the product sheet

Planting

Where to Plant Archontophoenix?

Archontophoenix is a frost-sensitive palm, intolerant of freezing temperatures, so in most regions of mainland France, it will need to be grown in a pot to protect it from the cold in winter. You can cultivate it in a conservatory or greenhouse, in a bright location. It appreciates atmospheric humidity: if the air is dry, don’t hesitate to mist its foliage, especially in summer. Choose a large, deep pot with drainage holes and grow it in a rich, well-draining substrate.

In regions with very mild climates along the Mediterranean or Atlantic coasts, where the risk of frost is low, it can be grown in the ground. Regarding exposure, it prefers partial shade but can also tolerate non-scorching sun provided it is watered regularly. Full sun may cause leaf scorch. We also recommend choosing a spot sheltered from strong winds. It thrives in soil rich in organic matter, moist to wet, yet well-draining.

When to Plant?

We recommend planting Archontophoenix in the garden in spring, around April, outside of frost periods. If grown in a pot, it can be planted in spring or autumn.

How to Plant?

In the ground:

1. Start by placing the palm in a basin of water to rehydrate the root ball.
2. Dig a planting hole two to three times the size of the root ball.
3. Mix planting soil with some compost, well-rotted manure, and coarse sand (for drainage).
4. Plant the palm in the centre, ensuring its trunk is straight.
5. Backfill with soil and lightly firm it down.
6. Water generously. You can create a watering basin around the palm to retain water and facilitate future watering.
7. Consider staking it to keep it upright until well-established.

Be vigilant about watering in the weeks following planting.

In a pot:

1. Start by placing the palm in a basin of water to rehydrate the root ball.
2. Place clay pebbles, gravel, or pot shards at the bottom of the pot for drainage.
3. Fill the pot with a mix of compost, well-rotted manure, and coarse sand.
4. Plant the Archontophoenix in the centre, ensuring it stands straight.
5. Backfill with substrate, avoiding burying the collar.
6. Water generously.

Archontophoenix alexandrae (photo: John Robert McPherson)

Maintenance

If grown in a pot, we recommend moving the Archontophoenix outdoors from June onwards, ideally in a partially shaded spot, and bringing it back indoors by late summer to early autumn, before the first frosts.

The Archontophoenix requires more water than most palms. In spring and summer, water it once or twice a week, allowing the compost to dry slightly between waterings. Avoid leaving standing water in the saucer. We recommend regularly misting its foliage, as it thrives in humid conditions. It will also benefit from a liquid fertiliser, diluted in the watering water once a month during spring and summer. In winter, reduce watering frequency and stop fertilising.

Remove any yellowed or dried leaves as they appear.

You can repot the Archontophoenix every 2 to 3 years, each time placing it in a slightly larger pot to accommodate its growth. In years when you don’t repot, refresh the top layer of compost by replacing the top few centimetres.

Indoors, the Archontophoenix may occasionally be attacked by red spider mites, especially in dry conditions. These tiny, almost invisible mites pierce the leaves to extract sap, weakening the plant and causing yellow spots that eventually dry out completely. Red spider mites dislike humidity, so we recommend misting the foliage regularly. If this isn’t enough, use a garlic decoction or rosemary essential oil. For more details, see our advice sheet “Red Spider Mites: Identification and Treatment”.

The Archontophoenix is also susceptible to scale insects. To eliminate them, spray the foliage with an anti-scale solution made by mixing one teaspoon each of liquid black soap, methylated spirits, and vegetable oil into a litre of water. For more information, check out our guide “Scale Insects: Identification and Treatment”.

Propagation

As with most palms, sowing is the best technique for propagating Archontophoenix.

Sowing

1. To facilitate germination, you can either place the seeds in the refrigerator for a week or soak them in water for one to two days.
2. Prepare pots by filling them with special sowing compost. The pots should be quite tall, as the roots grow deep into the substrate.
3. Sow the seeds, spacing them at least 3 to 4 cm apart.
4. Cover them with a thin layer of substrate, about 1 cm thick.
5. Water lightly with a fine spray.
6. Place them under shelter, at a temperature between 24 and 28 °C. Ideally, temperatures should be slightly cooler at night than during the day, and the atmosphere should be humid: you can place the pots in a mini greenhouse or cover them with a transparent lid or plastic bag.

Archontophoenix seeds take between one and three months to germinate. Ensure the substrate remains moist until germination by occasionally misting it with a spray bottle. You can then space out watering and transplant the young shoots into individual pots once they reach about 10 cm in height.

Association

Certainly, the Archontophoenix is destined for exotic-style gardens! If you’re fortunate enough to live in the very mild climate of the Mediterranean region, where frost risks are low, you can grow it in the ground alongside other exotic plants. Pair it with the lush foliage of Tetrapanax, red banana trees Ensete ventricosum, arborescent ferns, and other palms like the Phoenix. Add colour with the flowering Strelitzia or Bird of Paradise, Abutilons, Hedychiums, and Lantanas. Discover the stunning Bulbine frutescens, which bears spikes of small star-shaped yellow-orange flowers. You can also incorporate climbing plants like bignonia, bougainvillea, or akebia, perfect for creating a “jungle” atmosphere.

Kniphofia ‘Fiery Fred’, Archontophoenix alexandrae (photo: Alejandro Bayer Tamayo), Strelitzia reginae, Ensete ventricosum ‘Maurelii’, Tetrapanax papyrifera ‘Rex’, and Phormium ‘Pink Panther’

In other regions, grow Archontophoenix in pots to create a summer display on a terrace, alongside other conservatory plants, to be brought under cover in winter: citrus trees, non-hardy palms, Strelitzia, Brugmansia… You can also plant hardy exotic-style plants in the ground around the terrace, which will stay outdoors year-round. They’ll create a lasting green framework, a backdrop into which the Archontophoenix will easily blend in summer. Consider, for example, Fatsia japonica, Tetrapanax, the banana tree Musa basjoo, the palm Trachycarpus fortunei, bamboos, Kniphofias, and the climbing plant Akebia quinata.

Explore our guide “Exotic Garden: All Our Tips for Designing It”, as well as our inspiration page “Exotic Ambience”.