Phlebodium, Blue Fern : cultivation and care

Botany and description

Phlebodium is a perennial fern belonging to the large Polypodiaceae family, which includes many epiphytic ferns — meaning they naturally grow on other plants, particularly on tree trunks, without being parasitic. This lifestyle allows Phlebodium to occupy specific ecological niches in tropical forests, often at height, seeking light and humidity.

Phlebodium is native to tropical and subtropical regions of the American continent, particularly Central America, the southeastern United States and some Caribbean islands. In its natural habitat, it often grows in humid forests, clinging to tree trunks or branches, benefiting from a warm, humid and shady climate.

As a tropical plant, Phlebodium is not hardy and does not tolerate very low temperatures. It is generally recommended to grow it indoors or in a greenhouse, especially in regions where temperatures drop below 10°C. Ideally, it thrives between 18 and 25°C. It does not appreciate cold draughts or sudden temperature variations.

Phlebodium aureum ‘Blue Star’ and ‘Davana’

The Phlebodium genus includes only a few species. Phlebodium aureum is by far the most widespread in cultivation. Native to the tropical forests of America, it is also sometimes called “golden fern” in reference to the golden hue of its rootstock. It is recognisable by its large lobed fronds with an arching habit, often tinged with that famous metallic blue-green colour. It comes in different varieties: ‘Blue Star’, with very bluish foliage, almost powdery, and rounded lobes, ‘Davana’, a recent variety with even more divided and graphic foliage, intense blue-grey, and a very elegant trailing habit, and ‘Mandianum’, less well-known, offering a light silhouette and foliage with more golden reflections.

Phlebodium pseudoaureum is very similar to P. aureum, but it is less common in cultivation. It differs by a slightly different foliage colour (more light green than blue) and generally finer fronds. It is sometimes considered simply a natural variation or a subspecies. It is found mainly in subtropical areas, particularly in Florida.

Phlebodium develops from a creeping, thick rootstock, often covered with golden scales, hence its nicknames “golden fern” or “rabbit’s foot”. From this rootstock emerge long, arching fronds that can reach 50 cm to 1 m in length depending on growing conditions and species. The fronds are divided into fine, elongated lobes. They are only once divided, unlike many ferns which have fronds divided two to three times. Its habit is flexible, slightly trailing, making it an excellent hanging plant or one to place at height to showcase its foliage.

Phlebodium forms rootstocks covered with golden-brown scales, which creep along the soil surface (photos: Marija Gajić)

The foliage is Phlebodium’s charming asset. Its evergreen fronds, leathery, are more or less deeply cut depending on the variety. Their characteristic colour ranges from blue-green to metallic grey-green, sometimes dusted with silvery reflections. This unique hue gives it an almost unreal appearance and makes it a highly sought-after plant for interior decoration.

Unlike many other ferns, Phlebodium has foliage that appears almost “waxy”, and remains attractive all year round, provided it benefits from good ambient humidity.

Phlebodium, like all ferns, does not flower or produce seeds. Instead, it produces spores, contained in sporangia grouped in circular clusters on the underside of the leaves. It is these tiny spores, similar to dust, that allow the plant to reproduce.

Its growth is rather moderate. It does not become invasive and remains manageable indoors. However, a mature plant can take up some space if it is happy, forming a beautiful dense clump that catches the eye.

On the underside of Phlebodium fronds, you can sometimes observe orange, circular clusters: these are spores, and they consist of a multitude of sporangia, small spherical sacs containing the spores. At maturity, the sporangia open to release the spores and allow the plant to multiply.

The main species and varieties

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Planting Phlebodium

Where to place the Phlebodium?

The Phlebodium is an ideal indoor plant, particularly in temperate climates where it wouldn’t survive outdoors. Its location should provide conditions close to its natural habitat in terms of warmth, humidity and light.

Regarding exposure, the Phlebodium enjoys brightness but dislikes direct sunlight. A spot with indirect light, near a sheer-curtained window or one facing north or east, suits it perfectly. Too little light may slow its growth and dull its foliage, while direct sun exposure can cause leaf burn.

It thrives in humid conditions and will particularly enjoy a bright bathroom, though you can also mist its foliage regularly or place it near a humidifier or on a tray of damp clay pebbles.

The ideal temperature range is between 18-25°C. It dislikes cold draughts and sudden temperature changes. In summer, it can be moved outdoors to a shaded, sheltered spot, but always protected from wind and brought back inside when temperatures drop below 15°C.

Place the Phlebodium in a bright location without direct sunlight, for example behind a north-facing window.

When to plant Phlebodium?

The best time to plant or repot a Phlebodium is in spring, between March and May. During this period, the plant emerges from winter dormancy and enters active growth phase, making it easier to adapt to a new pot and substrate. Avoid repotting in winter or autumn except in emergencies (such as pest infestation or broken pot), as the plant is more vulnerable.

How to plant Phlebodium?

As Phlebodium is an epiphytic fern with rootstock, it requires a well-aerated and free-draining medium, yet able to retain some moisture. You can create a mix composed of 1/3 houseplant compost, 1/3 orchid compost (or pine bark), and 1/3 perlite or coarse sand.

Opt for terracotta pots for better root aeration, or lightweight plastic if hanging. The pot must obviously have drainage holes to prevent waterlogging.

Here are the key steps for successful planting:

• Fill a pot with light, free-draining medium.
• Gently remove the Phlebodium from its original pot, taking care not to damage too many roots.
• Position the plant in the pot, ensuring the rootstock sits just at the surface (it shouldn’t be completely buried).
• Fill in around the rootball with more compost.
• Firm lightly and water moderately to moisten without waterlogging.
• Place the plant in its final position, in gentle light and humid conditions.
• Wait a few days before fertilising, allowing time to adjust to its new environment.

How to care for the Phlebodium?

Caring for the Phlebodium is relatively simple, provided its essential needs are met, mainly linked to its tropical origin. This fern thrives in humid environments, with filtered light and stable temperatures. To keep it healthy and enjoy its lush foliage, just a few regular actions are needed.

Watering

The Phlebodium requires a slightly moist substrate, but never waterlogged. It’s important to carefully measure water intake. During the growth period, typically from spring to autumn, one to two waterings per week are sufficient, depending on the ambient temperature. In winter, the frequency should be reduced, often to once every ten to fifteen days. It’s also preferable to use non-calcareous water at room temperature, such as rainwater or filtered water. Overwatering can lead to rootstock rot, so it’s essential to let the water drain properly after each watering and never leave standing water in the saucer.

Remember to water the Phlebodium regularly

Humidity

Air humidity is another fundamental factor for this fern’s well-being. Native to humid forests, the Phlebodium enjoys a moist atmosphere. In dry indoor environments, especially in winter when heating is on, it’s advisable to regularly mist the foliage with soft water, or place the pot on a bed of damp clay pebbles. In very dry rooms, a humidifier can be an effective solution to maintain sufficient humidity levels.

Fertilisation

To stimulate its growth during the growing season, moderate fertiliser application is beneficial. You can add a liquid fertiliser for green plants, diluted in the watering water, once a month between April and September. However, it’s unnecessary, even harmful, to fertilise in winter when the plant is dormant.

Pruning and cleaning

Finally, a little aesthetic maintenance will keep your Phlebodium in top condition. Simply remove dried fronds regularly at their base and dust the foliage with a soft, damp cloth. You can also give your plant a lukewarm shower under the showerhead once a month, which will help remove dust and refresh its leaves.

What are the diseases and parasitic pests of Phlebodium?

The main threat to Phlebodium is related to stagnant moisture, which can lead to the development of rootstock or root rot. This type of issue often manifests as rapid yellowing of the foliage, general wilting of the plant, and sometimes an unpleasant odour emanating from the compost. In this case, it is essential to act quickly: remove the plant from its pot, eliminate the rotten parts and repot it in a healthy, well-draining substrate. A reduction in watering frequency will also be necessary.

Another common issue indoors is related to dry air, especially in winter. When ambient humidity is too low, the Phlebodium may suffer from drying of the tips of its fronds, or even complete browning of the leaves. Moreover, dry air encourages the appearance of certain parasitic pests, notably red spider mites. These tiny mites, difficult to see with the naked eye, reveal themselves through fine webbing on the underside of leaves and a stippled appearance of the foliage, which becomes dull and speckled. To prevent or treat them, increasing ambient humidity is often sufficient. In case of a more serious infestation, you can spray a natural insecticidal solution based on black soap or neem oil.

The Phlebodium can also be targeted by mealybugs, which often lodge at the base of the fronds or along the rootstock. They resemble small white cottony balls. To eliminate them, you can remove them by hand with a cotton pad soaked in 70% alcohol, or use a natural anti-mealybug treatment.

Finally, cultivation errors can sometimes lead to symptoms that are not strictly related to a disease. For example, pale or sparse foliage may indicate a lack of light, while slowed growth or absence of new fronds may suggest a nutrient deficiency or exhausted substrate. In these cases, adjusting the growing conditions is usually enough to restore the plant’s balance.

Red spider mites and mealybugs

How to propagate Phlebodium?

Unlike other ferns that mainly propagate through spores (a more complex and lengthy process), the Phlebodium can be propagated by dividing the rootstock, a simple and effective method.

The best time to attempt propagation is in spring, when the plant resumes its growth. This period offers optimal conditions for successful establishment, as the plant is more vigorous and receptive to handling.

• Choose a healthy, well-developed specimen with several fronds already formed and, if possible, visible buds on the rootstock.
• Carefully dig up the mother plant to access the rootstock, this creeping stem that runs just below or on the surface of the substrate.
• Using a well-disinfected tool (knife or secateurs), cut a portion of the rootstock, ensuring each section retains at least one growth point and a few roots.
• Replant each rootstock section in a pot with a light, well-draining substrate, similar to that used for the mother plant (a mix of houseplant compost, perlite and bark). It’s crucial not to bury the rootstock completely, as it should remain partially above the surface.
• Water lightly to rehydrate the roots without saturating the mixture.

During the first few weeks, the young divisions should be placed in a warm, bright environment without direct sunlight, and most importantly, humid to encourage establishment. Don’t hesitate to cover the pots with a clear plastic bag to maintain humidity, but remember to ventilate regularly to prevent mould.

Patience is key: it can sometimes take several weeks before new fronds appear. But once properly rooted, each division will become a fully-fledged plant, as robust and decorative as the original.

How to showcase the Phlebodium and which plants to pair it with?

The Phlebodium pairs beautifully with other tropical plants that enjoy humidity. For example, it can be combined with Calatheas, with their graphic patterns and varied hues, or with Fittonias. Their colourful foliage contrasts beautifully with the softer leaves of the Phlebodium. Marantas or Peperomias can also complement the scene nicely, adding different shapes and textures without stealing the spotlight from the fern.

To play with contrasts of form and habit, it is also very interesting to combine the Phlebodium with plants that have more structured foliage, such as Philodendrons, Monstera or Alocasias. These large, smooth, glossy leaves highlight the finely divided texture and powdery colour of the Phlebodium fronds. These plants also share the same preferences in terms of light and humidity, making them easier to care for as a group.

The Phlebodium looks stunning in a hanging pot, where its trailing fronds can spread freely. For a more jungle-like atmosphere, it can also be integrated into a large container with other tropical plants or placed on a mid-height shelf to showcase its airy silhouette.

Finally, for a very natural style of decoration, it can be paired with wood, raw ceramic or wicker elements, which evoke forest materials. A display with a few pebbles, pieces of driftwood or stabilised moss will create a zen and relaxing atmosphere.

Pair the Phlebodium with other houseplants such as Chlorophytums, Pothos, Alocasias and Monsteras. Opt for planters and decorative elements in light, natural tones like wood, white, beige or cream…