Neverbend root breaker by Spear & Jackson
Neverbend root breaker by Spear & Jackson
Fantastic tool! Never seen in stores, so when I read the description, I thought it was exactly what I needed to cut ivy roots and invasive shrub roots. What an excellent find! It perfectly matches the description and is extremely helpful, the right size, easy to handle, and essential for cleaning up shrub hedge bases. Only one regret: not discovering it sooner!
Nicole, 21/05/2020
Special offer!
Receive a €20 voucher for any order over €90 (excluding delivery costs, credit notes, and plastic-free options)!
1- Add your favorite plants to your cart.
2- Once you have reached €90, confirm your order (you can even choose the delivery date!).
3- As soon as your order is shipped, you will receive an email containing your voucher code, valid for 3 months (90 days).
Your voucher is unique and can only be used once, for any order with a minimum value of €20, excluding delivery costs.
Can be combined with other current offers, non-divisible and non-refundable.
We guarantee the quality of our plants for a full growing cycle, and will replace at our expense any plant that fails to recover under normal climatic and planting conditions.
This Neverbend root breaker from Spear & Jackson is an excellent alternative to forks and other spades commonly used to uproot dead trees and shrubs. Its wide blade forged from very resistant carbon steel cleanly cuts through all roots, even the toughest ones, even in narrow places. Fitted on a very sturdy steel tube, it ends with an ergonomic YD handle, specific to English tools, angled for a better grip. It is a performance, robust garden tool, of professional quality, which benefits from a 15-year manufacturer's warranty.
Sometimes you must dig up dead or obstructive shrubs, trees or hedge plants for various reasons, for example when designing a garden, building a house, or when the root system threatens pipes or foundations. To more easily access the roots that need to be cut to loosen the shrub or tree, first clear its stump by pulling out the surrounding grass or ivy. Also, remove the surface soil that hides the base of the larger roots. The root cutter is best used on slightly damp soil, which helps the blade penetrate the ground. First cut the largest visible roots, those that come from the base of the trunk. Then insert its sharp blade all around the stump, forming a circle a little further away from the trunk. Use the handle as a lever, without exerting too much force, all around the trunk, to pivot the plant, which allows it to tilt or lie down, and then finish the uprooting. In some shrubs, there is a main taproot that goes directly into the ground under the trunk: tilting the plant allows access to this large root and cutting it cleanly with the bar.
This model consists of a tubular stainless steel handle. The metal socket holds the spatulate-shaped blade, with a sharp edge, forged from carbon steel resistant to both shocks and torsion. This polished blade offers less resistance to penetration into the ground. The handle, ending with a YD handle typical of English tools, multiplies the force: this handle allows you to exert your full weight to drive the tool head into the ground. This tool is recyclable.
The company Spear & Jackson has been selling tools for gardening, agriculture, and landscaping to both professionals and amateurs since 1760! Today their range reflects all this experience by offering innovative products, of superior quality, and adapted to the most diverse uses.
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Hardiness is the lowest winter temperature a plant can endure without suffering serious damage or even dying. However, hardiness is affected by location (a sheltered area, such as a patio), protection (winter cover) and soil type (hardiness is improved by well-drained soil).
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In temperate climates, pruning of spring-flowering shrubs (forsythia, spireas, etc.) should be done just after flowering.
Pruning of summer-flowering shrubs (Indian Lilac, Perovskia, etc.) can be done in winter or spring.
In cold regions as well as with frost-sensitive plants, avoid pruning too early when severe frosts may still occur.
The harvesting period indicated on our website applies to countries and regions in USDA zone 8 (France, England, Ireland, the Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...) fruit and vegetable harvests are likely to be delayed by 3-4 weeks.
In warmer areas (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), harvesting will probably take place earlier, depending on weather conditions.
The sowing periods indicated on our website apply to countries and regions within USDA Zone 8 (France, UK, Ireland, Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...), delay any outdoor sowing by 3-4 weeks, or sow under glass.
In warmer climes (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), bring outdoor sowing forward by a few weeks.
The planting period indicated on our website applies to regions in USDA Zone 9a (East Coast and Midlands: Dublin, Wexford, Waterford, Kilkenny, Portlaoise). It will vary depending on where you live:
- On the west coast and in the north-west (Galway, Limerick, Sligo, Donegal, Westport), delay planting by 1 to 2 weeks in spring and bring it forward by 1 to 2 weeks in autumn compared to the dates given, preferably choosing periods without strong winds.
- In the inland hills and plateaus (Wicklow Mountains, Macgillycuddy’s Reeks, Connemara, Killarney), it is best to plant in spring (April–May) or autumn (September–October), avoiding periods of waterlogged soil in winter and strong winds, which pose the main risk to newly planted trees in these areas.
The flowering period indicated on our website applies to regions in USDA Zone 9a, such as the East Coast and Midlands, including Dublin, Wexford, Waterford, Kilkenny and Portlaoise.
This will vary depending on where you live:
- On the west coast and in the northwest (Galway, Limerick, Sligo, Donegal and Westport), it will be delayed by one to two weeks compared to the given dates, due to stronger Atlantic winds and less spring sunshine.
- In the inland hills and plateaus (the Wicklow Mountains, the Macgillycuddy's Reeks, Connemara and Killarney), flowering will be delayed by two to three weeks. Flowering mainly occurs between May and July, with the limiting factors being less frost and more of the excessive humidity, strong winds and lack of sunshine that are characteristic of these areas.