Paeonia suffruticosa Lu Mu Ying Yu - Tree Peony
Paeonia suffruticosa Lu Mu Ying Yu - Tree Peony
Paeonia suffruticosa Lu Mu Ying Yu - Tree Peony
Paeonia suffruticosa Lu Mu Ying Yu - Tree Peony
Paeonia suffruticosa 10 Lu Mu Ying Yu
Tree Peony
My peony produces only leaves, no flowers. Why?
Simone , 20/05/2022
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Description
Paeonia suffruticosa 'Lu Mu Ying Yu', sometimes marketed under the name 'Green Jade', is a late-flowering tree peony that will delight collectors and enthusiasts of plant curiosities. Intensely unique, it is nonetheless very beautiful, with its opulent uniquely green and delicately scented blossoms. While it takes time to establish itself, the bush is vigorous and is adorned with lush foliage made up of large, long, thick, and soft leaves. Hardy and easy to grow in any good garden soil, it will live for many years without requiring much care, after careful planting. A mature tree peony needs no description, it is simply admired, either as a specimen or as a focal point in a shrub bed.
The tree peony 'Lu Mu Ying Yu', obtained in China at an unknown date (before 1990) by an illustrious unknown breeder, has somewhat mysterious origins. It is believed to be a hybrid between a woody Paeonia suffruticosa and a herbaceous and perennial P. lactiflora, of which there are many varieties often planted in gardens. All these plants from the Far East are very cold-resistant. They belong to the renonculaceae family.
'Lu Mu Ying Yu' slowly forms a sparsely branched, rounded bush that can exceed 1.50 m (5ft) in all directions. Under good growing conditions, and after many years, it can even reach human height. The knotty and upright branches bear deciduous leaves, which emerge in spring and fall in autumn. They are divided into long lanceolate leaflets, very smooth, strongly veined, reddish at bud break, quickly becoming tender green on the upper side and bluish-green underneath. The autumn colours are often very beautiful before the leaves drop.
The flowering of this 'Green Jade' variety takes place for 3 weeks in April-May, relatively late for a tree peony. A 3-year-old plant will produce a single flower in the first year, but 50 after 20 years of cultivation. It starts with very large, solitary, green and round buds that appear at the end of winter at the tips of new shoots. They open up into very double corollas that can reach 20 cm (8in) in diameter and 12 cm (5in) in depth. They consist of multiple crisped and imbricate petals, particularly towards the centre of the flower. At blooming, the entire flower is spring green. As they mature, the petals fade almost to white, from the periphery towards the centre, which retains its green colour for longer. Their fragrance is similar to that of Chinese peonies.
The tree peony is not a plant for impatient gardeners. It takes its time, but the years of patience are rewarded with the fabulous spectacle created by this opulent shrub covered in huge blossoms in spring. In the garden, Paeonia suffruticosa 'Lu Mu Ying Yu' will be sumptuous when planted against a wall, a hedge or in a border, under tall trees, but always sheltered from winds and in a well-ventilated and bright spot. Its green flowers will be enhanced by those of other white, red (Paeonia tenuifolia), pink or orange peonies, or early-flowering China roses (Old Blush). This variety also pairs well with other perennials that bloom before or after it, such as grasses, roses, garden irises, or campanulas.
Paeonia suffruticosa Lu Mu Ying Yu - Tree Peony in pictures
Flowering
Foliage
Plant habit
Botanical data
Paeonia
suffruticosa
10 Lu Mu Ying Yu
Ranunculaceae
Tree Peony
Cultivar or hybrid
Planting and care
Place Peony suffructicosa preferably in partial shade, or in the sun in colder regions. Morning sun is appreciated, especially in hot regions, while scorching situations should be avoided. From September to May, except during periods of frost, plant it in a fertile and deep soil, slightly acidic, neutral or even slightly alkaline, moist but well-drained to prevent root rot. Once well established in deep soil, the tree peony does not require watering in summer, especially early-flowering varieties. Its cold resistance is excellent, but the flower buds can be damaged by strong, dry and cold winds.
Easy to grow, shrubby peonies require little maintenance but deserve careful planting. During planting, dig a large hole 40 to 50 cm (16 to 20in) deep and at least as wide. Fill it with a mixture of garden soil, leaf compost, and river sand or gravel if your soil is very heavy and compact. Add crushed horn, bone meal, and dried blood in the bottom of the planting hole. Do not plant the plants too close together for good aeration. The shrubby peony fears competition from the roots of other plants, so allow for a spacing of 1 m (3ft) with its neighbors. The graft should be buried about twenty centimeters deep so that the plant gradually becomes independent of its rootstock. Watering should be abundant but spaced 8 to 5 days apart in the first two years, from March to September. Peonies have a reputation for being homebodies. That's why they should not be moved after planting. Avoid pruning unless the base of the plant becomes bare. If that's the case, prune at the level of the shoots from the base. Provide a support stake to support the flower stems and remove faded flowers during the season.
Planting period
Intended location
Care
Planting & care advice
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Hardiness is the lowest winter temperature a plant can endure without suffering serious damage or even dying. However, hardiness is affected by location (a sheltered area, such as a patio), protection (winter cover) and soil type (hardiness is improved by well-drained soil).
In temperate climates, pruning of spring-flowering shrubs (forsythia, spireas, etc.) should be done just after flowering.
Pruning of summer-flowering shrubs (Indian Lilac, Perovskia, etc.) can be done in winter or spring.
In cold regions as well as with frost-sensitive plants, avoid pruning too early when severe frosts may still occur.
The harvesting period indicated on our website applies to countries and regions in USDA zone 8 (France, England, Ireland, the Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...) fruit and vegetable harvests are likely to be delayed by 3-4 weeks.
In warmer areas (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), harvesting will probably take place earlier, depending on weather conditions.
The sowing periods indicated on our website apply to countries and regions within USDA Zone 8 (France, UK, Ireland, Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...), delay any outdoor sowing by 3-4 weeks, or sow under glass.
In warmer climes (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), bring outdoor sowing forward by a few weeks.
The planting period indicated on our website applies to regions in USDA Zone 9a (East Coast and Midlands: Dublin, Wexford, Waterford, Kilkenny, Portlaoise). It will vary depending on where you live:
- On the west coast and in the north-west (Galway, Limerick, Sligo, Donegal, Westport), delay planting by 1 to 2 weeks in spring and bring it forward by 1 to 2 weeks in autumn compared to the dates given, preferably choosing periods without strong winds.
- In the inland hills and plateaus (Wicklow Mountains, Macgillycuddy’s Reeks, Connemara, Killarney), it is best to plant in spring (April–May) or autumn (September–October), avoiding periods of waterlogged soil in winter and strong winds, which pose the main risk to newly planted trees in these areas.
The flowering period indicated on our website applies to regions in USDA Zone 9a, such as the East Coast and Midlands, including Dublin, Wexford, Waterford, Kilkenny and Portlaoise.
This will vary depending on where you live:
- On the west coast and in the northwest (Galway, Limerick, Sligo, Donegal and Westport), it will be delayed by one to two weeks compared to the given dates, due to stronger Atlantic winds and less spring sunshine.
- In the inland hills and plateaus (the Wicklow Mountains, the Macgillycuddy's Reeks, Connemara and Killarney), flowering will be delayed by two to three weeks. Flowering mainly occurs between May and July, with the limiting factors being less frost and more of the excessive humidity, strong winds and lack of sunshine that are characteristic of these areas.
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