Olea europaea Picholine - Olive tree
Olea europaea Picholine - Olive tree
Olea europaea Picholine - Olive tree
Olea europaea Picholine - Olive tree
Olea europaea Picholine
Olive, European Olive
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Description
The Picholine Olive is a very old variety originating from Gard. It has medium vigour and bears fruit quickly. It produces olives generally used as green table olives. It yields a very fruity, green, slightly bitter and pungent oil. The Picholine Olive is self-fertile. It is not very resistant to cold and is fairly resistant to parasites. Harvest takes place in September for green olives, October for black olives, and from November to mid-January for oil.
The expansion of the olive tree is linked to the establishment of the Mediterranean climate, which is the major constraint for its cultivation. The domestication of the olive tree is believed to have taken place six millennia ago. Olive trees are long-lived trees. The oldest olive tree in the world is now 3000 years old. The Picholine Olive originates from Gard. Its name comes from the Picholini brothers, Italians who invented a recipe to make olives edible while preserving their green colour. This variety from Gard was the one that responded best to this recipe. Today, it is cultivated throughout the Mediterranean region.
The olive tree is a very branched tree, with a gnarled trunk, hard and dense wood, and cracked brown bark.
The leaves are elongated ovals, borne on short petioles, fairly tough, entire, with rolled edges, they are shiny dark green on the upper surface, and light green-silver with a prominent midrib on the lower. The foliage is evergreen, but that doesn't mean its leaves are immortal: they are constantly renewed.
The small white flowers are grouped in small clusters of 10 to 20, growing in the axils of the leaves in April-May on the previous year's wood. The Picholine Olive is self-fertile, although the presence of a pollinator is recommended.
The olive is an elongated ovoid fruit, whose skin is covered with a thick bloom. It is green and turns black when fully ripe.
Green olives are not consumed straight from the tree. They must first be prepared to remove any bitterness. There are many methods for preserving these green table olives. They are all based on the same principle, in 3 steps. 1/ Removing bitterness, either with a caustic soda bath, a quick solution, or an ash lye, a more traditional and slower method. 2/ Rinsing. 3/ Brining, with or without fermentation. For black olives, removing bitterness is not necessary.
Table olives are eaten once prepared. They can also be used to produce olive oil.
Olea europaea Picholine - Olive tree in pictures
Plant habit
Fruit
Flowering
Foliage
Safety measures
atteinterespiratoire
Cette plante peut entraîner des symptômes allergiques.
Evitez de la planter si vous ou vos proches souffrez de rhinite saisonnière ("rhume des foins").
Davantage d'informations sur https://plantes-risque.info
Planting and care
The Picholine Olive Tree can be grown in containers or in open ground. In containers, in frost-prone regions, you can bring your olive trees indoors from October to March (or longer depending on the freezing periods in your region), in a bright location. In open ground, if you are not in a Mediterranean region, protect your tree with a fleece and mulch the base. In any case, choose a sunny location, with dry, rocky or even poor soil, always well-drained. Limestone soils are not a problem, but olive trees don't thrive in waterlogged soils.
Planting: Dig a hole at least twice the size of the pot. Keep the root ball intact. If a root ball has formed, spread it out when planting. Place the root ball in the hole. Stake the tree well (if necessary, use two stakes. The young tree needs protection from the wind). The tree should be staked for up to 5 years. Fill the hole with soil, firming it down. Create a mound around the tree at a distance of 50 cm (20in) and pour 20 L of water in the middle, which will help the soil adhere to the roots and promote successful planting. Leave 6 m (20ft) of space between the trunks in all directions.
If you are growing in containers, remember to repot your olive trees every 3 years or so.
Planting period
Intended location
Care
Planting & care advice
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Hardiness is the lowest winter temperature a plant can endure without suffering serious damage or even dying. However, hardiness is affected by location (a sheltered area, such as a patio), protection (winter cover) and soil type (hardiness is improved by well-drained soil).
In temperate climates, pruning of spring-flowering shrubs (forsythia, spireas, etc.) should be done just after flowering.
Pruning of summer-flowering shrubs (Indian Lilac, Perovskia, etc.) can be done in winter or spring.
In cold regions as well as with frost-sensitive plants, avoid pruning too early when severe frosts may still occur.
The harvesting period indicated on our website applies to countries and regions in USDA zone 8 (France, England, Ireland, the Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...) fruit and vegetable harvests are likely to be delayed by 3-4 weeks.
In warmer areas (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), harvesting will probably take place earlier, depending on weather conditions.
The sowing periods indicated on our website apply to countries and regions within USDA Zone 8 (France, UK, Ireland, Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...), delay any outdoor sowing by 3-4 weeks, or sow under glass.
In warmer climes (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), bring outdoor sowing forward by a few weeks.
The planting period indicated on our website applies to regions in USDA Zone 9a (East Coast and Midlands: Dublin, Wexford, Waterford, Kilkenny, Portlaoise). It will vary depending on where you live:
- On the west coast and in the north-west (Galway, Limerick, Sligo, Donegal, Westport), delay planting by 1 to 2 weeks in spring and bring it forward by 1 to 2 weeks in autumn compared to the dates given, preferably choosing periods without strong winds.
- In the inland hills and plateaus (Wicklow Mountains, Macgillycuddy’s Reeks, Connemara, Killarney), it is best to plant in spring (April–May) or autumn (September–October), avoiding periods of waterlogged soil in winter and strong winds, which pose the main risk to newly planted trees in these areas.
The flowering period indicated on our website applies to regions in USDA Zone 9a, such as the East Coast and Midlands, including Dublin, Wexford, Waterford, Kilkenny and Portlaoise.
This will vary depending on where you live:
- On the west coast and in the northwest (Galway, Limerick, Sligo, Donegal and Westport), it will be delayed by one to two weeks compared to the given dates, due to stronger Atlantic winds and less spring sunshine.
- In the inland hills and plateaus (the Wicklow Mountains, the Macgillycuddy's Reeks, Connemara and Killarney), flowering will be delayed by two to three weeks. Flowering mainly occurs between May and July, with the limiting factors being less frost and more of the excessive humidity, strong winds and lack of sunshine that are characteristic of these areas.
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