Redcurrant Rola - Ribes rubrum
Redcurrant Rola - Ribes rubrum
Ribes rubrum Rolan
Red Currant, Common Redcurrant
Very nice shoots that have taken well, I think I will have some gooseberries this year.
Anne, 17/05/2021
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Description
The Rolan Redcurrant Bush (Ribes rubrum) is a productive variety, highly resistant to diseases. It is self-fertile and produces long clusters of very tasty red fruits. It is well-suited for regions with harsh winters as it has significant cold requirements. Planting can be done from October to March for a harvest in July and August.
The Redcurrant Bush, also known as Ribes rubrum, belongs to the Grossulariaceae family, just like the Gooseberry Bush. It has been cultivated for a long time and grows naturally in many temperate regions of the Northern Hemisphere, from Europe to Siberia and even to Manchuria.
The Redcurrant Bush is a bushy, non-thorny shrub with a clump-like habit, with slightly stiff and sparsely branched branches, and its wood is soft and has abundant pith. This very hardy bush will reach 1.50 m (5ft) in all directions. The foliage is deciduous, composed of palmate, lobed, and aromatic leaves, of medium green colour.
Flowering occurs in spring, in the form of clusters of small insignificant greenish to brownish flowers, intensely visited by bees. Fructification mainly occurs on one- and two-year-old branches. The bush is then covered with numerous clusters of small round and translucent berries, containing small seeds.
Harvesting takes place as the fruits ripen. The Rolan variety produces long clusters of red fruits, to be picked from July onwards. Redcurrants have juicy, tangy, red flesh. Whether white or red, redcurrants are low in calories, rich in minerals and trace elements, as well as potassium, calcium, and phosphorus. They are also a good source of vitamin C and fibre.
Use fresh redcurrants in jams or pastries for tart fillings or for making sorbets. In the garden, this bush, unremarkable for much of the year, becomes attractive when it is adorned with its long sanguine clusters illuminated by the summer light. The pleasure is threefold, both visual and gustatory, but also olfactory when its warm foliage perfumes the garden. It pairs well with white currant varieties, gooseberry bushes, as well as bushes that offer a beautiful fruiting (non-edible), such as Leycesteria formosa, Nandina domestica and its varieties, Japanese quinces, small-leaved Cotoneaster, Magical Beauty St. John's Wort, symphoricarpos... For small gardens or to save space, it is clever to train this redcurrant bush against a wall or to grow it as a standard. Note that the redcurrant bush can be included in a patio orchard, as it performs well in large pots, with a depth of at least 40cm, while being careful not to water it with overly hard water.
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Redcurrant Rola - Ribes rubrum in pictures
Plant habit
Fruit
Flowering
Foliage
Planting and care
Plant the Redcurrant bush from October to March, outside the frost period. It appreciates ordinary soils, even poor ones, without too much limestone. Redcurrant bushes like well-drained soil, damp but not constantly wet. The Redcurrant bush dreads heat and drought, so plant it in the sun or in partial shade in the south. Choose a location sheltered from strong winds.
When planting, space the young plants 1.20m (4ft) apart in all directions. Dig a hole, incorporate decomposed manure or well-rotted compost into the soil, place the plant and cover with soil. Water generously. Then mulch the soil to keep it damp in summer.
A supply of organic fertiliser at the start of vegetation will support fruit production and plant health. It is an accommodating bush, not very susceptible to diseases. It has a few enemies, such as aphids, which can be eliminated by spraying with black soap or a garlic decoction. In June-July, protect the harvest with nets to counter the greed of birds. To get rid of raspberry worms, which are sometimes also present on redcurrants, you can sow forget-me-nots along the plantation; they are reputed to scare them away.
In a redcurrant plantation, as in any plantation, it is important to alternate varieties and species, when space allows: pollination will be favored, and the development of epidemics or diseases will be limited.
Planting period
Intended location
Care
Planting & care advice
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Hardiness is the lowest winter temperature a plant can endure without suffering serious damage or even dying. However, hardiness is affected by location (a sheltered area, such as a patio), protection (winter cover) and soil type (hardiness is improved by well-drained soil).
In temperate climates, pruning of spring-flowering shrubs (forsythia, spireas, etc.) should be done just after flowering.
Pruning of summer-flowering shrubs (Indian Lilac, Perovskia, etc.) can be done in winter or spring.
In cold regions as well as with frost-sensitive plants, avoid pruning too early when severe frosts may still occur.
The harvesting period indicated on our website applies to countries and regions in USDA zone 8 (France, England, Ireland, the Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...) fruit and vegetable harvests are likely to be delayed by 3-4 weeks.
In warmer areas (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), harvesting will probably take place earlier, depending on weather conditions.
The sowing periods indicated on our website apply to countries and regions within USDA Zone 8 (France, UK, Ireland, Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...), delay any outdoor sowing by 3-4 weeks, or sow under glass.
In warmer climes (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), bring outdoor sowing forward by a few weeks.
The planting period indicated on our website applies to regions in USDA Zone 9a (East Coast and Midlands: Dublin, Wexford, Waterford, Kilkenny, Portlaoise). It will vary depending on where you live:
- On the west coast and in the north-west (Galway, Limerick, Sligo, Donegal, Westport), delay planting by 1 to 2 weeks in spring and bring it forward by 1 to 2 weeks in autumn compared to the dates given, preferably choosing periods without strong winds.
- In the inland hills and plateaus (Wicklow Mountains, Macgillycuddy’s Reeks, Connemara, Killarney), it is best to plant in spring (April–May) or autumn (September–October), avoiding periods of waterlogged soil in winter and strong winds, which pose the main risk to newly planted trees in these areas.
The flowering period indicated on our website applies to regions in USDA Zone 9a, such as the East Coast and Midlands, including Dublin, Wexford, Waterford, Kilkenny and Portlaoise.
This will vary depending on where you live:
- On the west coast and in the northwest (Galway, Limerick, Sligo, Donegal and Westport), it will be delayed by one to two weeks compared to the given dates, due to stronger Atlantic winds and less spring sunshine.
- In the inland hills and plateaus (the Wicklow Mountains, the Macgillycuddy's Reeks, Connemara and Killarney), flowering will be delayed by two to three weeks. Flowering mainly occurs between May and July, with the limiting factors being less frost and more of the excessive humidity, strong winds and lack of sunshine that are characteristic of these areas.
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