Tomato Bloody Butcher - Ferme de Sainte Marthe seeds
Tomato Bloody Butcher - Ferme de Sainte Marthe seeds
Tomato Bloody Butcher - Ferme de Sainte Marthe seeds
Solanum lycopersicum Bloody Butcher
Tomato
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Description
The Bloody Butcher Tomato is an early variety with potato leaf foliage that produces small round cherry-type fruits, dark red in colour. Their flesh is dense, juicy, and sweet in taste, making them ideal for appetizers. Sow in March - April for a harvest from June to September.
The tomato is native to South America and Central America. Several varieties were already cultivated by the Incas long before the arrival of the Conquistadors. We are still amazed by the wide variety of this solanaceous plant. The term 'tomato' comes from the Incas' Tomatl, which refers to both the plant and the fruit it produces. There are fruits of all colours, except perhaps blue, in all shapes and sizes. Ancient varieties are indeterminate plants and can live for two years. More recent varieties have determinate growth and stop growing at the bush stage, so they do not need to be staked or trellised.
The tomato is one of the many foods that came to us from the New World, along with beans, corn, squash, potatoes, and chili peppers. It took much longer for it to reach our taste buds. For a long time, it was cultivated for its aesthetic and medicinal qualities. It was thought to be toxic because of its resemblance to the fruit of the Mandrake, another solanaceous plant. It only became a regular part of our tables in the early 20th century.
The tomato plant is a perennial herbaceous plant in tropical climates, cultivated as an annual in our latitudes. It lignifies over time and produces small, insignificant yellow flowers clustered in inflorescences that will turn into fruits.
It must be admitted that its fruit is very attractive and adds a pleasant colour to the vegetable garden. It also has many nutritional benefits. Low in calories like most vegetables, rich in water, it contains a very interesting molecule: lycopene, a powerful antioxidant. The longer the tomato is cooked, the more lycopene becomes available. It is also rich in vitamin C, provitamin A, and trace elements.
Today, its taste and nutritional qualities are well established. For gardeners, tomatoes are among the essential summer vegetables. They only need to consider how they want to use them to guide them among the many existing varieties. Is it for salads, sauces, direct consumption, cooked, etc. They will also consider when they want to harvest them. The answer will, of course, depend on the average summer sunshine in the region where their garden is located. Rest assured, the choice is vast, and there is a tomato for every situation! And while tomatoes do require a lot of sunlight and warmth, they do not necessarily need a lot of space. Therefore, there is no reason not to grow them in pots on a balcony, where varieties with small fruits are preferred. Beware, immature fruits, stems, and leaves contain solanine and should not be consumed.
Harvesting: Depending on the variety, from early to late, it can take 50 to 100 days between transplantation and harvest. There is no foolproof trick to determine in advance if a tomato has reached full ripeness. The fruit should be picked when, at the very least, it is completely coloured as announced and when its texture, while remaining firm, shows a slight softening. For better preservation, be sure to pick the fruit with its peduncle.
Storage: Tomatoes do not keep as long when they have a high water content. They can be kept well for a few days in the vegetable compartment of your refrigerator or spread out in the open air. To keep them longer, consider culinary methods such as tomato confit, sun-dried tomatoes, sauces, frozen fruits, preserves, jams, or juices. We love to confit them because it is simple and so tasty: cut your tomatoes in half and collect the juice. Place your half tomatoes face up on the grill pan of your oven. Season with salt, pepper, and sugar, then bake at a very low temperature for at least an hour. Remove your tomatoes and consume immediately, or store them in a glass jar and cover with olive oil.
Gardener's tip: It is advisable to grow several varieties of tomatoes each year to minimize the risk of a complete loss of harvest due to a climatic event or a specific pathology. To counter the phenomenon of 'blossom end rot' - not a disease but a calcium deficiency - spray a comfrey maceration rich in calcium on your plants. When transplanting, do not hesitate to bury the stem up to the first leaves. This will stimulate the root system, ensuring a bountiful fruit harvest. Winning combinations in the garden are often the same on the plate. It's a good mnemonic device to remember that tomatoes and basil go well together.
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Harvest
Plant habit
Foliage
Botanical data
Solanum
lycopersicum
Bloody Butcher
Solanaceae
Tomato
South America
Annual
Planting and care
Soil preparation: Tomato plants are extremely easy to grow. Sunlight and warmth are crucial for the success of this crop. However, they can grow in any type of soil, although they prefer rich and well-draining soil. You can improve the substrate by adding a bit of sand if it is too compact.
Sowing under glass: From mid-February to May, sow your seeds indoors or in heated greenhouses in trays at around 20°C (68°F). Bury the seeds under 5 to 7 mm (0in) of special seed compost as they need darkness to germinate. Do not use compost during this initial stage, as it could burn the future roots. Tomato plants grow very quickly, with seeds typically germinating within two weeks. Do not discard a tray if germination has not occurred within this time frame, as some varieties take longer. Once the plants have reached a good size of around fifteen centimeters, consider transplanting them.
Transplanting in open ground: Once the risk of frost has passed, usually after the Ice Saints in mid-May, transplant your seedlings into open ground. Choose the sunniest and warmest spots in your garden. The ideal position is at the base of a south-facing wall. Loosen the soil and dig a hole at least 3 to 4 times the volume of the plant's root system. Add some well-decomposed compost at the bottom. Place your plant in the hole, burying it up to the first leaves, and then backfill. Firm the soil, create a basin around the base, and water generously. Be careful not to wet the leaves to protect your plants from fungal diseases.
Maintenance: Applying mulch around the base of your plants helps retain some moisture and reduces the need for weeding. Tomato plants do not require excessive watering, as their root system can access deep water sources. Only water generously during prolonged periods of drought.
Seedlings
Care
Intended location
Planting & care advice
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Hardiness is the lowest winter temperature a plant can endure without suffering serious damage or even dying. However, hardiness is affected by location (a sheltered area, such as a patio), protection (winter cover) and soil type (hardiness is improved by well-drained soil).
In temperate climates, pruning of spring-flowering shrubs (forsythia, spireas, etc.) should be done just after flowering.
Pruning of summer-flowering shrubs (Indian Lilac, Perovskia, etc.) can be done in winter or spring.
In cold regions as well as with frost-sensitive plants, avoid pruning too early when severe frosts may still occur.
The harvesting period indicated on our website applies to countries and regions in USDA zone 8 (France, England, Ireland, the Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...) fruit and vegetable harvests are likely to be delayed by 3-4 weeks.
In warmer areas (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), harvesting will probably take place earlier, depending on weather conditions.
The sowing periods indicated on our website apply to countries and regions within USDA Zone 8 (France, UK, Ireland, Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...), delay any outdoor sowing by 3-4 weeks, or sow under glass.
In warmer climes (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), bring outdoor sowing forward by a few weeks.
The planting period indicated on our website applies to regions in USDA Zone 9a (East Coast and Midlands: Dublin, Wexford, Waterford, Kilkenny, Portlaoise). It will vary depending on where you live:
- On the west coast and in the north-west (Galway, Limerick, Sligo, Donegal, Westport), delay planting by 1 to 2 weeks in spring and bring it forward by 1 to 2 weeks in autumn compared to the dates given, preferably choosing periods without strong winds.
- In the inland hills and plateaus (Wicklow Mountains, Macgillycuddy’s Reeks, Connemara, Killarney), it is best to plant in spring (April–May) or autumn (September–October), avoiding periods of waterlogged soil in winter and strong winds, which pose the main risk to newly planted trees in these areas.
The flowering period indicated on our website applies to regions in USDA Zone 9a, such as the East Coast and Midlands, including Dublin, Wexford, Waterford, Kilkenny and Portlaoise.
This will vary depending on where you live:
- On the west coast and in the northwest (Galway, Limerick, Sligo, Donegal and Westport), it will be delayed by one to two weeks compared to the given dates, due to stronger Atlantic winds and less spring sunshine.
- In the inland hills and plateaus (the Wicklow Mountains, the Macgillycuddy's Reeks, Connemara and Killarney), flowering will be delayed by two to three weeks. Flowering mainly occurs between May and July, with the limiting factors being less frost and more of the excessive humidity, strong winds and lack of sunshine that are characteristic of these areas.
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