Solanum lycopersicum 'Orange Banana'
Solanum lycopersicum 'Orange Banana'
Solanum lycopersicum Orange Banana
Tomato
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Description
The 'Orange Banana' Tomato is an old variety originating from Russia that is very productive, fairly disease resistant, and late ripening. It produces clusters of 5 to 6 fruits in the shape of elongated and pointed plums, of the 'paste' type, measuring 8 to 10cm (3 to 4in) long and weighing 50 to 100g, with a golden orange colour. Their flesh is firm, with a sweet flavour and a hint of acidity, delicious when eaten raw and delightful in sauces. This tomato, rich in pectin, also has good drying abilities. The plant is very leafy, with indeterminate growth and can reach a height of 1.60m (5ft). Each plant will produce about 100 fruits. You will sow from March to April and harvest 80 to 100 days later, from June-July to September-October.
The tomato originates from South America and Central America. Several varieties were already cultivated by the Incas long before the arrival of the Conquistadors. We are still amazed by the wide variety of this nightshade family plant. The term "tomato" comes from the Inca Tomatl and refers to both the plant and the fruit it produces. There are fruits of all colours (red, of course, but also green, yellow, and even some very rare blue varieties), of all shapes and sizes. Ancient varieties are plants with indeterminate growth and can live for two years. More recent varieties have what is called determinate growth and stop growing at the bush stage, so there is no need to stake or train them.
The tomato is one of the many foods that came to us from the New World, like beans, corn, squash, potatoes, and chili peppers. It took significantly longer for it to reach our taste buds. And for good reason! It was long cultivated for its aesthetic and medicinal qualities. It was thought to be toxic because of its resemblance to the fruit of the Mandrake, another nightshade family plant. It only became a regular on our tables at the beginning of the 20th century.
The tomato plant is a perennial herbaceous plant in tropical climates, cultivated as an annual in our latitudes. It lignifies over time and produces small, insignificant yellow flowers clustered in cymes that will transform into fruits.
It must be admitted that its fruit is very attractive and adds a pleasant colour to the vegetable garden. It also has many nutritional benefits. Low in calories like most vegetables, rich in water, it also contains a very interesting molecule: lycopene, a powerful antioxidant. And the longer the tomato is cooked, the more available lycopene it releases. It is also rich in vitamin C, provitamin A, and trace elements.
Today, its taste and nutritional qualities are well-established. For the gardener, the tomato is one of the essential vegetables of summer. They simply need to consider what they want to use it for in order to navigate among all the existing varieties. Is it for salads, sauces, consumption directly on site, cooked, etc.? They will also consider when they want to harvest it. The answer will of course depend on the average summer sunshine in the region where their garden is located. Rest assured, the choice is vast and there is a tomato for every situation! And while tomatoes do need a lot of sun and heat, they do not necessarily require a lot of space. That's why you should not hesitate to grow them in containers on your balcony, where you can prioritize small-fruited varieties. Be careful, immature fruits, stems, and leaves contain solanine and should not be consumed.
Harvesting: depending on the varieties, it can take 50 to 100 days between the transplanting date and the harvest. There is no foolproof way to determine in advance when a tomato has reached its full ripeness. Harvesting should be done when, at the very least, it is fully coloured as announced and when its texture, while remaining firm, shows a slight softening. For better preservation, be sure to pick the fruit with its stem.
Preservation: tomatoes do not keep as long when they have a high water content. They can be stored well for a few days in the vegetable drawer of your refrigerator or spread out in the open air. To keep them longer, consider culinary methods such as tomato confit, sun-dried tomatoes, sauces, frozen fruits, preserves, jams, or juices. We love to confit them because it's simple and so delicious: cut your tomatoes in half and collect the juice. Place your tomato halves face up on the baking sheet of your oven. Season with salt, pepper, and sugar, then bake at a very low temperature for at least an hour. Remove your tomatoes and consume immediately, otherwise store them in a glass jar and cover with olive oil.
Gardener's tip: it is recommended to grow several varieties of tomatoes each year to minimize the risk of a complete loss of harvest due to a climatic event or a specific pathology.
To counter the phenomenon of 'blossom end rot' - not a disease, but a calcium deficiency - spray a comfrey maceration rich in calcium on your plants.
When transplanting, do not hesitate to bury the stem up to the first leaves. This will stimulate the root system and ensure a bountiful fruit harvest.
Winning combinations in the garden are often the same on the plate. It is a good mnemonic device to remember that tomatoes and basil go well together.
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Harvest
Plant habit
Foliage
Botanical data
Solanum
lycopersicum
Orange Banana
Solanaceae
Tomato
Cultivar or hybrid
Annual
Planting and care
Soil preparation: Tomato plants are extremely easy to grow. Sunlight and warmth are crucial for the success of this cultivation. However, they can thrive in any type of soil, although they prefer rich and well-draining soil. If the soil is too compact, you can add a bit of sand to improve it.
Seed sowing under cover: From mid-February to May, sow your seeds indoors or in heated greenhouses using trays at around 20°C (68°F). Bury the seeds under 5 to 7mm (0.25in) of special seed compost as they need darkness to germinate. Avoid using compost in this initial stage as it may burn the future roots. Tomato plants grow very quickly, with the seeds usually germinating within two weeks. Don't discard a tray if germination hasn't occurred within this timeframe, as some varieties take longer. Once the plants have reached a good height of about 15cm (6in), consider transplanting them.
Transplanting in open ground: Once the risk of frost has passed, usually after the "Ice Saints" around mid-May, transplant your seedlings into the open ground. Choose the sunniest and warmest spots in your garden. Placing them at the base of a south-facing wall is ideal. Loosen the soil and dig a hole that is at least 3 to 4 times the volume of the plant's root system. Add some well-decomposed compost at the bottom. Place your plant, burying it up to the first leaves, and then backfill the hole. Firm the soil, create a small depression around the base, and water generously. Be careful not to wet the leaves to protect your plants from fungal diseases.
Maintenance: Applying mulch around the base of your plants helps retain some moisture and reduces the need for weeding. Tomato plants do not require excessive watering, as their root system can reach deep for available resources. Only water generously during prolonged dry spells.
Seedlings
Care
Intended location
Planting & care advice
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Hardiness is the lowest winter temperature a plant can endure without suffering serious damage or even dying. However, hardiness is affected by location (a sheltered area, such as a patio), protection (winter cover) and soil type (hardiness is improved by well-drained soil).
In temperate climates, pruning of spring-flowering shrubs (forsythia, spireas, etc.) should be done just after flowering.
Pruning of summer-flowering shrubs (Indian Lilac, Perovskia, etc.) can be done in winter or spring.
In cold regions as well as with frost-sensitive plants, avoid pruning too early when severe frosts may still occur.
The harvesting period indicated on our website applies to countries and regions in USDA zone 8 (France, England, Ireland, the Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...) fruit and vegetable harvests are likely to be delayed by 3-4 weeks.
In warmer areas (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), harvesting will probably take place earlier, depending on weather conditions.
The sowing periods indicated on our website apply to countries and regions within USDA Zone 8 (France, UK, Ireland, Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...), delay any outdoor sowing by 3-4 weeks, or sow under glass.
In warmer climes (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), bring outdoor sowing forward by a few weeks.
The planting period indicated on our website applies to regions in USDA Zone 9a (East Coast and Midlands: Dublin, Wexford, Waterford, Kilkenny, Portlaoise). It will vary depending on where you live:
- On the west coast and in the north-west (Galway, Limerick, Sligo, Donegal, Westport), delay planting by 1 to 2 weeks in spring and bring it forward by 1 to 2 weeks in autumn compared to the dates given, preferably choosing periods without strong winds.
- In the inland hills and plateaus (Wicklow Mountains, Macgillycuddy’s Reeks, Connemara, Killarney), it is best to plant in spring (April–May) or autumn (September–October), avoiding periods of waterlogged soil in winter and strong winds, which pose the main risk to newly planted trees in these areas.
The flowering period indicated on our website applies to regions in USDA Zone 9a, such as the East Coast and Midlands, including Dublin, Wexford, Waterford, Kilkenny and Portlaoise.
This will vary depending on where you live:
- On the west coast and in the northwest (Galway, Limerick, Sligo, Donegal and Westport), it will be delayed by one to two weeks compared to the given dates, due to stronger Atlantic winds and less spring sunshine.
- In the inland hills and plateaus (the Wicklow Mountains, the Macgillycuddy's Reeks, Connemara and Killarney), flowering will be delayed by two to three weeks. Flowering mainly occurs between May and July, with the limiting factors being less frost and more of the excessive humidity, strong winds and lack of sunshine that are characteristic of these areas.
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