Canna edulis
Canna edulis
Canna edulis
Canna edulis
Canna edulis
Canna edulis
Indian shot, Edible Canna, Canna Lily, Achira (South American term), Queensland Arrowroot
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Description
Canna edulis, often given as a synonym of Canna indica or C. discolor, is known for its large edible rhizomes once used in Peruvian cuisine. It is a tall and beautiful perennial plant with tropical accents that forms a lush clump of leaves similar to those of a banana tree, green with violet reflections. It blooms more readily in regions with a long and hot summer, in late summer and early autumn. Its floral spikes, less spectacular than those of horticultural Cannas, display delicate red flowers with more orange on the inside. It is as easy to grow as a dahlia, but has a very different exotic charm. Plant it in a border or in a large pot on the terrace. Guaranteed effect!
Canna edulis belongs to the family Cannaceae. Its botanical origin is quite confusing, and it is possible that this plant is unknown in the wild. Nevertheless, this Canna was commonly cultivated in South America, especially in the Andes, as a vegetable plant. In mild climates, cannas can be left in the ground during winter, provided they are covered with a thick mulch that is also covered with a waterproof sheet to protect them from moisture.
This edible Canna quickly forms a lush clump, reaching a height of 80cm (31.5in) to 2m (6ft 7in) depending on the growing conditions. In containers, the plant will be much smaller than in the ground. It has large, entire, wide, oblong, sheathing leaves at the base. The lamina can reach 50-60cm (19.7-23.6in) in length and 3-4cm (1.2-1.6in) in width, and 60cm (0 and 23.6in) in length. It is entirely covered with prominent veins. Its colour, variable, is a glossy deep green, more or less purplish-violet at the edges. The late flowering takes place from August to September-October, in the form of spikes of bright red flowers, more or less orange on the inside. Each flower, 6 to 8cm (2.4 to 3.1in) in diameter, asymmetrical, consists of 3 petals fused at the base, 3 sepals and visible stamens. The plant easily multiplies vegetatively by producing numerous shoots.
In the kitchen: the rhizomes are harvested in autumn, when all the Cannas are dug up for winter storage. Keep a few rhizomes to replant the following spring. The others can be consumed raw or cooked. Their texture becomes gelatinous after cooking, and their translucent flesh reveals a sweet flavour, intermediate between parsnip and artichoke. These cooked rhizomes can be used as a side dish, just like potatoes.
Canna edulis can be used to create beautiful compositions in containers, with a very exotic look, in the company of Agapanthus, Amaranths, and cosmos for example. It also forms a beautiful association with a dwarf banana tree or bamboo. Cannas are majestic and colourful plants, ideal for spicing up the back of borders for the taller ones, or for brightening up terraces and balconies for the smaller varieties. They are easy to grow for everyone. Consider planting them in a densely planted border with about ten bulbs of the same variety or by mixing green and purple foliage. Use them to decorate a corner of a pond with Colocasias, ferns, and ground-covering species such as Soleirolia or creeping golden loosestrife.
In floristry, Strelitzia reginae is the perfect cut exotic flower, thanks to its extraordinary structure and its vibrant orange and blue colours. It is also a very beautiful conservatory plant, which only fears the cold and is easy to grow as long as it is not lacking in water or nutrients during the growing season. You can easily create an exotic decor around the Strelitzia, by combining it with Cannas, castor oil plants, Melianthus major, Billbergia nutans, a small banana tree, gingers, and a small palm tree such as Sabal minor for example.
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Canna edulis in pictures
Flowering
Foliage
Plant habit
Botanical data
Canna
edulis
Cannaceae
Indian shot, Edible Canna, Canna Lily, Achira (South American term), Queensland Arrowroot
South America
Planting and care
Canna edulis does not like cold and wet weather, and its rootstock must be protected from frost during the winter. Its flowering will be more beautiful if it is planted in the sun (in partial shade in the South). When planting it in the ground, it should only be done after the last frost. It should also be stored away at the first frost to keep the rootstock dry and cool, for example in a bit of turf. Plant them in moist but well-drained soil (if necessary, lighten your soil with turf or sand). Cover with 5cm (2in) of soil and keep a spacing of 60cm (23.6in) between the bulbs. Apply organic fertilizer at planting and at least once a month. Regularly water so that the soil never completely dries out. You can also speed up their growth cycle by planting them in pots under frost-free shelter as early as February, and then transplanting them to the garden in the warmer months (June in the North of France, late April in the South). Beware of attacks from slugs and snails, which are fond of shoots and leaves.
In mild regions, it is possible to leave the rootstock in the ground. Place a thick layer of straw over the stumps, then a waterproof sheet on top. Secure the sheet with weights to prevent it from being lifted by the wind. The rootstocks primarily fear soils that are both frozen and wet.
Planting period
Intended location
Care
Planting & care advice
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Hardiness is the lowest winter temperature a plant can endure without suffering serious damage or even dying. However, hardiness is affected by location (a sheltered area, such as a patio), protection (winter cover) and soil type (hardiness is improved by well-drained soil).
In temperate climates, pruning of spring-flowering shrubs (forsythia, spireas, etc.) should be done just after flowering.
Pruning of summer-flowering shrubs (Indian Lilac, Perovskia, etc.) can be done in winter or spring.
In cold regions as well as with frost-sensitive plants, avoid pruning too early when severe frosts may still occur.
The harvesting period indicated on our website applies to countries and regions in USDA zone 8 (France, England, Ireland, the Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...) fruit and vegetable harvests are likely to be delayed by 3-4 weeks.
In warmer areas (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), harvesting will probably take place earlier, depending on weather conditions.
The sowing periods indicated on our website apply to countries and regions within USDA Zone 8 (France, UK, Ireland, Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...), delay any outdoor sowing by 3-4 weeks, or sow under glass.
In warmer climes (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), bring outdoor sowing forward by a few weeks.
The planting period indicated on our website applies to regions in USDA Zone 9a (East Coast and Midlands: Dublin, Wexford, Waterford, Kilkenny, Portlaoise). It will vary depending on where you live:
- On the west coast and in the north-west (Galway, Limerick, Sligo, Donegal, Westport), delay planting by 1 to 2 weeks in spring and bring it forward by 1 to 2 weeks in autumn compared to the dates given, preferably choosing periods without strong winds.
- In the inland hills and plateaus (Wicklow Mountains, Macgillycuddy’s Reeks, Connemara, Killarney), it is best to plant in spring (April–May) or autumn (September–October), avoiding periods of waterlogged soil in winter and strong winds, which pose the main risk to newly planted trees in these areas.
The flowering period indicated on our website applies to regions in USDA Zone 9a, such as the East Coast and Midlands, including Dublin, Wexford, Waterford, Kilkenny and Portlaoise.
This will vary depending on where you live:
- On the west coast and in the northwest (Galway, Limerick, Sligo, Donegal and Westport), it will be delayed by one to two weeks compared to the given dates, due to stronger Atlantic winds and less spring sunshine.
- In the inland hills and plateaus (the Wicklow Mountains, the Macgillycuddy's Reeks, Connemara and Killarney), flowering will be delayed by two to three weeks. Flowering mainly occurs between May and July, with the limiting factors being less frost and more of the excessive humidity, strong winds and lack of sunshine that are characteristic of these areas.
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