Rosa 'Bathsheba' - Climbing Rose
Rosa 'Bathsheba' - Climbing Rose
Rosa 'Bathsheba' - Climbing Rose
Rosa 'Bathsheba' - Climbing Rose
Rosa 'Bathsheba' - Climbing Rose
Rosa Bathsheba® 'Auschimbley'
Auschimbley
I ordered a lot of rose bushes and they all grew back well, but unfortunately this one didn’t. It was dry, and didn’t have enough roots.
Criss, 03/02/2026
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Description
The English rose 'Bathsheba' brings fresh air to climbing English roses. This brand new variety develops stems that can reach 3 metres (10 feet), loaded from June to October with large, very double and bicoloured roses with an original and refined aesthetic. Their shape is that of a classic rosette, with a tone of pink-apricot mixed with soft yellow, but each one seems to rest on a collar of white-cream peripheral petals that form like a halo of light, the whole producing a very bright apricot colour. A highly fragrant rose, gently eccentric, that one can well imagine trained on a small arch near the terrace.
This rose with multiple qualities reaches quite significant dimensions, at least 2.50 metres (8 feet) in height by 1.50 metres (5 feet) in spread. Its habit is climbing, and its sturdy, woody stems adorn medium-green foliage with a satin-like finish. It proves to be quite resistant to diseases. Its elongated, apricot-yellow buds open into classic rosettes, slightly cup-shaped, about 10cm (4in) wide, and filled with numerous tightly packed petals. They offer a delightful mix of colours: the upper surface of the petals is of a delicate pink-apricot hue, and their undersides are a soft yellow. The peripheral petals, in strong contrast, are cream-coloured. Its fragrance evoking myrrh is powerful, balanced, floral and warm, with notes of honey and then Rose Thé. The repeat flowering is almost continuous, in a voluptuous apricot hue with warm nuances, in perfect harmony with the colours of autumn.
Resistant to diseases and cold temperatures (-25 to -30°C), the climbing English rose 'Bathsheba' is an easy plant to cultivate in all deep soils, and its flowers pair well with those of English or old roses in warm or pastel shades of white (Alberic Barbier, Bouquet Parfait), such as Tuscany, Canary Bird, Graham Thomas, Morning Mist or Fighting Temeraire. It forms a beautiful composition with the single and changing flowers of the China rose 'Mutabilis' or with the simple, orange to copper corollas of Rosa foetida bicolour. It contrasts well with purple flowers, such as the rose 'Blue Eyes', Blue Girl, Lady Perfume, or climbing Sissi. Its growth allows it to hide a small structure, bring life back to a dead tree, or even embrace a column or arch near the terrace.
Its name is inspired by the sparkling 'Bathsheba', the heroine of Thomas Hardy's novel "Far from the Madding Crowd".
Obtained by David Austin in 2016.
Rosa 'Bathsheba' - Climbing Rose in pictures
Plant habit
Flowering
Foliage
Planting and care
Plant your 'Bathsheba' English climbing rose in a sunny or lightly shaded position. English roses are tolerant but will not tolerate excessive limestone. They will adapt to any garden if the soil is well-worked and rich. To plant your rose, work the soil by crumbling it and put an amendment, such as blood, fish, and bone, at the bottom of the planting hole. Water generously after planting to remove any air pockets. Water regularly for a few weeks to facilitate rooting.
Pruning English roses is essential for flowering. At the end of winter, shorten the branches to 3-5 eyes above the ground (at the lowest), and choose an outward-facing bud for a more elegant habit. Take advantage of this pruning to remove dead wood and unsightly branches. Prune at an angle above a bud. As the flowers bloom, remove faded flowers; this stimulates the development of other buds.
For climbing roses, the stems that bloomed the previous year should be reduced to 3 or 4 buds or pruned to 15cm (6in). The new sturdy stems will be tied, and the old stems will be removed if necessary. Choose an outward-facing bud for a more elegant habit. Take advantage of this pruning to remove dead wood and unsightly branches. Prune at an angle above a bud. As the flowers bloom, remove faded flowers; this stimulates the development of other buds.
Roses in late summer often have stains or blemishes, but these do not harm their development as they are a natural occurrence.
Planting period
Intended location
Care
Planting & care advice
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Hardiness is the lowest winter temperature a plant can endure without suffering serious damage or even dying. However, hardiness is affected by location (a sheltered area, such as a patio), protection (winter cover) and soil type (hardiness is improved by well-drained soil).
In temperate climates, pruning of spring-flowering shrubs (forsythia, spireas, etc.) should be done just after flowering.
Pruning of summer-flowering shrubs (Indian Lilac, Perovskia, etc.) can be done in winter or spring.
In cold regions as well as with frost-sensitive plants, avoid pruning too early when severe frosts may still occur.
The harvesting period indicated on our website applies to countries and regions in USDA zone 8 (France, England, Ireland, the Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...) fruit and vegetable harvests are likely to be delayed by 3-4 weeks.
In warmer areas (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), harvesting will probably take place earlier, depending on weather conditions.
The sowing periods indicated on our website apply to countries and regions within USDA Zone 8 (France, UK, Ireland, Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...), delay any outdoor sowing by 3-4 weeks, or sow under glass.
In warmer climes (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), bring outdoor sowing forward by a few weeks.
The planting period indicated on our website applies to regions in USDA Zone 9a (East Coast and Midlands: Dublin, Wexford, Waterford, Kilkenny, Portlaoise). It will vary depending on where you live:
- On the west coast and in the north-west (Galway, Limerick, Sligo, Donegal, Westport), delay planting by 1 to 2 weeks in spring and bring it forward by 1 to 2 weeks in autumn compared to the dates given, preferably choosing periods without strong winds.
- In the inland hills and plateaus (Wicklow Mountains, Macgillycuddy’s Reeks, Connemara, Killarney), it is best to plant in spring (April–May) or autumn (September–October), avoiding periods of waterlogged soil in winter and strong winds, which pose the main risk to newly planted trees in these areas.
The flowering period indicated on our website applies to regions in USDA Zone 9a, such as the East Coast and Midlands, including Dublin, Wexford, Waterford, Kilkenny and Portlaoise.
This will vary depending on where you live:
- On the west coast and in the northwest (Galway, Limerick, Sligo, Donegal and Westport), it will be delayed by one to two weeks compared to the given dates, due to stronger Atlantic winds and less spring sunshine.
- In the inland hills and plateaus (the Wicklow Mountains, the Macgillycuddy's Reeks, Connemara and Killarney), flowering will be delayed by two to three weeks. Flowering mainly occurs between May and July, with the limiting factors being less frost and more of the excessive humidity, strong winds and lack of sunshine that are characteristic of these areas.
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