Iris sibirica Blue Moon - Siberian Iris
Iris sibirica Blue Moon - Siberian Iris
Iris sibirica Blue Moon
Siberian Iris, Siberian Flag
Beautiful, holds up well—I'll be ordering more!
Dominique , 07/04/2025
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Description
The 'Blue Moon' Iris sibirica, also known as Siberian Iris, offers graceful intense bluish-violet flowers, veined with dark purple and tinged with pale yellow at the base of the petals in May-June. This striking plant forms a vigorous clump of vertical, green-grey slender leaves that remain beautiful for months. This iris adapts to moist and sunny banks and can thrive in well-worked ordinary soil as long as it is not arid, requiring little maintenance.
The 'Blue Moon' Siberian Iris is a rhizomatous and deciduous perennial plant that forms upright clumps starting from spring. It belongs to the Iridaceae family. It is one of the many cultivars obtained from the Siberian Iris, native to central Europe, eastern Europe, and Turkey but absent from Siberia, and the Iris sanguinea, found in China, Siberia, Japan, Manchuria, and Korea. This iris can reach a height of 80cm (32in), 1m (3ft) when in bloom, and the clump will spread over 50cm (20in). Its growth rate is moderate, slower than that of the German Iris. The 'Blue Moon' Siberian Iris has an elegant upright habit with dense clumps. The foliage consists of long, narrow green-grey leaves. In late spring and early summer, the flower stems project above the foliage, bearing 3 sepals and 3 petals that arrange themselves and successively bloom from the top of the stem to the lower branches. They are a vivid bluish-violet, marked with yellow at the throat and veined with darker purple. This iris spreads through rhizomes.
The 'Blue Moon' Siberian Iris tolerates a wet location, such as a bank, as long as it is not permanently submerged. It can also be cultivated in regular garden soil with mulch and watering every 15 days in summer. It prefers an acidic to neutral soil (pH 4.5 to 8), rich and well-drained. Clayey, chalky, or sandy soil can be improved by adding a good amount of humus (well-decomposed organic matter). Alkaline soil can be slightly acidified by adding ericaceous soil, pine needles, or sulfur. Siberian irises need a sunny location to flower, with at least 6 hours of daily sunlight. In the hottest regions, light shading during the hot hours can be beneficial. It is best to plant during the dormant period, from late September to mid-April, avoiding freezing weather. In warm climates, planting can be done in September. In colder regions, planting should be done at the beginning of the growing season, in late March or April. (They will only flower the following year). Planting in August can be an alternative. Plant the Siberian iris rhizomes at a depth of 3-5cm (1-2in). Siberian irises can remain in place without division for longer than bearded irises. They should only be divided every 5 to 10 years when the clump no longer blooms in the centre or forms a crown. Sufficient space should be provided for good clump development. Fertilise with an NPK 10-10-10 type fertiliser at the start of the growing season and after flowering in June. On young clumps, systematically remove faded flower stalks to prevent exhaustion. On well-established clumps, remove the stalks to prevent spontaneous seeding of non-true seedlings around the mother plant. After autumn frosts, yellowing foliage can be cut back to 3-5cm (1-2in) from the ground (and left in place as mulch). Alternatively, this dry foliage can be left during winter as an "architectural" element in the garden. It should only be cut back at the end of winter, in late February, before the new leaves emerge.
In the edge of a water feature or stream, or simply in very moist soil, the 'Blue Moon' Siberian Iris is irreplaceable. It can also be used in any non-arid garden. Its grace is perfect for romantic gardens, English gardens, and other mixed borders. It can be associated with summer snowflakes, camassias, poet's narcissus, montbretias, crinums, daylilies, delphiniums, columbines, ligularias, phlox, asters, herbaceous peonies, and lady's mantle in moist soil.
Good to know: The wild Siberian Iris L. is an endangered and protected species that must be respected. Horticultural "Sibirica" irises are hybrids obtained from different species of the Sibiricae series (I. sanguinea, etc.). Their flowers are larger than those of wild forms and come in various colours. Several hundred named cultivars are registered.
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Iris sibirica Blue Moon - Siberian Iris in pictures
Flowering
Foliage
Plant habit
Botanical data
Iris
sibirica
Blue Moon
Iridaceae
Siberian Iris, Siberian Flag
Cultivar or hybrid
Planting and care
The 'Blue Moon' Siberian iris can tolerate a wet location, such as a bank, as long as it is not permanently submerged. It can also be grown in regular garden soil, with mulching and watering every 15 days in summer. It prefers an acidic to neutral soil (pH 4.5 to 8), rich and well-drained. Soil that is too clayey, too chalky or too sandy can be improved by adding a good amount of humus (well-decomposed organic matter). An alkaline soil can be slightly acidified by adding ericaceous soil, pine needles, or sulfur. Siberian irises need a sunny location to bloom, with at least 6 hours of daily sunlight. In the hottest regions, light shading during the hot hours can be beneficial. It is best to plant during the dormant period, from late September to mid-April, outside of freezing weather. In hot climates, planting should be done in September. In regions with cold winters, planting should be done at the beginning of vegetation growth, in late March or April. (They will only flower the following year). Planting in August can be an alternative. Plant Siberian iris rhizomes at a depth of 3-5cm (1-2in). Siberian irises can remain in place without division for longer than bearded irises. They should only be divided every 5 to 10 years, when the clump no longer blooms in the centre or forms a crown. Sufficient space should be provided for good clump development. Fertilise with an NPK 10-10-10 type fertiliser at the start of vegetation and after flowering in June. On young clumps, systematically remove faded flower stalks to prevent exhaustion. On well-established clumps, remove the flower stalks to prevent spontaneous seedlings from non-true offspring. After autumn frosts, yellowed foliage can be cut back to 3-5cm (1-2in) above the ground (and left in place as mulch). Conversely, this dry foliage can be left during the winter as an "architectural" element in the garden. It is then only cut back at the end of winter, in late February, before the new leaves start to grow.
Planting period
Intended location
Care
Planting & care advice
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Hardiness is the lowest winter temperature a plant can endure without suffering serious damage or even dying. However, hardiness is affected by location (a sheltered area, such as a patio), protection (winter cover) and soil type (hardiness is improved by well-drained soil).
In temperate climates, pruning of spring-flowering shrubs (forsythia, spireas, etc.) should be done just after flowering.
Pruning of summer-flowering shrubs (Indian Lilac, Perovskia, etc.) can be done in winter or spring.
In cold regions as well as with frost-sensitive plants, avoid pruning too early when severe frosts may still occur.
The harvesting period indicated on our website applies to countries and regions in USDA zone 8 (France, England, Ireland, the Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...) fruit and vegetable harvests are likely to be delayed by 3-4 weeks.
In warmer areas (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), harvesting will probably take place earlier, depending on weather conditions.
The sowing periods indicated on our website apply to countries and regions within USDA Zone 8 (France, UK, Ireland, Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...), delay any outdoor sowing by 3-4 weeks, or sow under glass.
In warmer climes (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), bring outdoor sowing forward by a few weeks.
The planting period indicated on our website applies to regions in USDA Zone 9a (East Coast and Midlands: Dublin, Wexford, Waterford, Kilkenny, Portlaoise). It will vary depending on where you live:
- On the west coast and in the north-west (Galway, Limerick, Sligo, Donegal, Westport), delay planting by 1 to 2 weeks in spring and bring it forward by 1 to 2 weeks in autumn compared to the dates given, preferably choosing periods without strong winds.
- In the inland hills and plateaus (Wicklow Mountains, Macgillycuddy’s Reeks, Connemara, Killarney), it is best to plant in spring (April–May) or autumn (September–October), avoiding periods of waterlogged soil in winter and strong winds, which pose the main risk to newly planted trees in these areas.
The flowering period indicated on our website applies to regions in USDA Zone 9a, such as the East Coast and Midlands, including Dublin, Wexford, Waterford, Kilkenny and Portlaoise.
This will vary depending on where you live:
- On the west coast and in the northwest (Galway, Limerick, Sligo, Donegal and Westport), it will be delayed by one to two weeks compared to the given dates, due to stronger Atlantic winds and less spring sunshine.
- In the inland hills and plateaus (the Wicklow Mountains, the Macgillycuddy's Reeks, Connemara and Killarney), flowering will be delayed by two to three weeks. Flowering mainly occurs between May and July, with the limiting factors being less frost and more of the excessive humidity, strong winds and lack of sunshine that are characteristic of these areas.
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