Gladiolus The Bride - Sword Lily
Gladiolus The Bride - Sword Lily
Gladiolus x colvillei The Bride
Colville's Gladiolus, Sword Lily
Only two flower stems, and after lifting the bulbs, I only had three left. The other variety I bought flowered completely.
joelle, 13/10/2025
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This plant carries a 6 months recovery warranty
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Description
The Gladiolus colvillii 'The Bride' is a variety of dwarf gladiolus whose hardiness allows for year-round outdoor cultivation in our climate, with good mulching in winter. This bulb typically produces well-filled spikes of white star-shaped flowers, punctuated with purple stamens and pale yellow markings at the centre, usually in late spring. A hybrid, not commonly planted in gardens, that has a great chance of changing the perception of this plant, which is often considered too stiff and artificial. Charming, natural, and graceful, it integrates much better than larger hybrids into romantic or slightly wild borders.
The genus Gladiolus belongs to the iris family, and cultivated varieties are hybrids divided into 3 main groups: Grandiflorus (large-flowered), Primulinus (early-flowering), and Nanus (butterflies). Gladiolus colvillii is the first known hybrid in cultivation, obtained in England in 1823 through the cross-breeding of Gladiolus cardinalis and G. tristis. It is part of the gladiolus group characterised by rather small flowers, irregularly arranged on 40-45 cm (16-18in) tall stems, each bearing up to 10 florets. The lower petal of each star-shaped flower has a darker central zone.
'The Bride' is a very old cultivar, a white offspring of this Colvillii hybrid, introduced to the market in 1871, but still cultivated due to its true elegance. It is a perennial herbaceous plant with thin, very dark green sword-shaped leaves arranged in a fan shape, forming a 45 cm (18in) tall clump. The leaves are topped by an inflorescence in spike form, with up to 10 buds, each flower having 6 petals and measuring 8 cm (3in) in diameter, resembling small white lilies, and borne on very slim stems. The flowers gradually open from bottom to top, forming beautiful flower spikes. The storage organ is a corm, which is a swollen stem with scales. Each corm will produce 2 or 3 flower spikes.
Gladioli and their long colourful spikes are reminiscent of the 70s and somewhat formal floral arrangements. While they are irreplaceable in bouquets, in gardens, their silhouette benefits from the presence of plants with lush foliage to enhance their abundant yet wildly romantic flowering. Far from this archetype, the dwarf Gladiolus 'The Bride' fits well into simple perennial borders without requiring staking. It pairs well with ground cover roses ('The Fairy', 'Knock Out'), small grasses (Stipa pennata or tenuifolia), forget-me-nots, penstemons, and perennial flax, for example. Play with bright pink and red for vibrancy and add here and there some silver foliage (stachys, artemisias). For bouquet arrangements, cut the flower spikes when the first floret starts to open. Plant them at intervals of two weeks from early spring until the end of June to have flowers in the house and garden all summer long.
The gladiolus gets its name from the shape of its sword-like leaves, derived from the Latin word gladius. Its wild forms were often depicted in jewelry or on tapestries and fabrics made by the Semitic people before the Christian era.
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Gladiolus The Bride - Sword Lily in pictures
Plant habit
Flowering
Foliage
Botanical data
Gladiolus
x colvillei
The Bride
Iridaceae
Colville's Gladiolus, Sword Lily
Cultivar or hybrid
Planting and care
Plant the bulbs of Colville's Gladiolus 'The Bride' in well-drained soil and in a sunny, sheltered position. Bury them under 8 to 10 cm (3 to 4in) of soil, spaced 10 to 15 cm (4 to 6in) apart.
The 'The Bride' Gladiolus loves rich, fertile but well-drained soils, so sandy soils are preferred and compact clay should be avoided. Avoid using manure to fertilise the soil, as it promotes bulb rot. The plant should not lack water during its growth and flowering period, but its bulbs appreciate being dry during the resting period. The corms of this variety can overwinter in the ground, in well-drained and very healthy soil, covered with a thick mulch to prevent damage from severe frosts. In very cold regions, the plants will be dug up as soon as the leaves have yellowed, to be stored in sand and kept dry, protected from heat and frost. You can also grow them in pots that you will protect from the cold (20 bulbs for a pot of 20 to 22 cm (8 to 9in)).
Planting period
Intended location
Care
Planting & care advice
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Hardiness is the lowest winter temperature a plant can endure without suffering serious damage or even dying. However, hardiness is affected by location (a sheltered area, such as a patio), protection (winter cover) and soil type (hardiness is improved by well-drained soil).
In temperate climates, pruning of spring-flowering shrubs (forsythia, spireas, etc.) should be done just after flowering.
Pruning of summer-flowering shrubs (Indian Lilac, Perovskia, etc.) can be done in winter or spring.
In cold regions as well as with frost-sensitive plants, avoid pruning too early when severe frosts may still occur.
The harvesting period indicated on our website applies to countries and regions in USDA zone 8 (France, England, Ireland, the Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...) fruit and vegetable harvests are likely to be delayed by 3-4 weeks.
In warmer areas (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), harvesting will probably take place earlier, depending on weather conditions.
The sowing periods indicated on our website apply to countries and regions within USDA Zone 8 (France, UK, Ireland, Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...), delay any outdoor sowing by 3-4 weeks, or sow under glass.
In warmer climes (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), bring outdoor sowing forward by a few weeks.
The planting period indicated on our website applies to regions in USDA Zone 9a (East Coast and Midlands: Dublin, Wexford, Waterford, Kilkenny, Portlaoise). It will vary depending on where you live:
- On the west coast and in the north-west (Galway, Limerick, Sligo, Donegal, Westport), delay planting by 1 to 2 weeks in spring and bring it forward by 1 to 2 weeks in autumn compared to the dates given, preferably choosing periods without strong winds.
- In the inland hills and plateaus (Wicklow Mountains, Macgillycuddy’s Reeks, Connemara, Killarney), it is best to plant in spring (April–May) or autumn (September–October), avoiding periods of waterlogged soil in winter and strong winds, which pose the main risk to newly planted trees in these areas.
The flowering period indicated on our website applies to regions in USDA Zone 9a, such as the East Coast and Midlands, including Dublin, Wexford, Waterford, Kilkenny and Portlaoise.
This will vary depending on where you live:
- On the west coast and in the northwest (Galway, Limerick, Sligo, Donegal and Westport), it will be delayed by one to two weeks compared to the given dates, due to stronger Atlantic winds and less spring sunshine.
- In the inland hills and plateaus (the Wicklow Mountains, the Macgillycuddy's Reeks, Connemara and Killarney), flowering will be delayed by two to three weeks. Flowering mainly occurs between May and July, with the limiting factors being less frost and more of the excessive humidity, strong winds and lack of sunshine that are characteristic of these areas.
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