Narcissus Bridal Crown
Narcissus Bridal Crown
Narcissus Bridal Crown
Narcissus Bridal Crown
Narcissus Bridal Crown
Narcissus Bridal Crown
Narcissus Bridal Crown
Narcissus Bridal Crown
Narcissus Bridal Crown
Narcissus Bridal Crown
Narcissus Bridal Crown
Narcissus Bridal Crown
Narcissus Bridal Crown
Narcissus tazetta Bridal Crown
Paperwhite, Bunch-flowered Daffodil, Chinese Sacred Lily, Polyanthus Narcissus
Out of 10 bulbs, about 2/3 sprouted and produced beautiful flowers.
Gabryel, 15/06/2025
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Description
Narcissus 'Bridal Crown', a multiple award winner, is one of the most decorative and fragrant varieties. This small plant blooms early in spring with several stems, each carrying 3 to 5 very double, creamy white flowers with a yellow-orange throat with a sweet and enchanting fragrance. Floriferous and reliable, this narcissus will be as charming in the garden as it is in a flower pot where you can enjoy its incredible fragrance. Stunning in bouquets, it can also be forced indoors for winter flowering.
Narcissus belong to the amaryllidaceae family. The Narcissus genus includes about 50 species mainly found in the western Mediterranean, but also in Africa and Asia. 'Bridal Crown', introduced before 1949, is a wonderful horticultural hybrid that carries the genes of N. Tazetta, a very robust plant native to the Mediterranean region that adapts to various climates and conditions.
'Bridal Crown' is an excellent variety in every respect and has received the Award of Garden Merit from the Royal Horticultural Society in England. Its mother is the 'Innocence' narcissus, which it distinguishes itself with the doubling of its flowers. The plant blooms in March-April, sometimes earlier or later depending on the region. It produces two to three very sturdy stems 35-40 cm (14-16in) tall when in bloom. Each stem carries 4 to 5, sometimes 6, bicoloured, extremely fragrant flowers with a diameter of 4 cm (2in). Many small, slightly crumpled cream-coloured petals partially conceal a very short, deeply fringed, yellow-orange crown in the centre of the flower. Some segments of this crown are interspersed among the petals, which are transformed stamens. The deciduous, linear foliage disappears in summer.
There is such a choice of daffodils that one can enjoy them for three months in spring without ever getting bored. They will all naturalise easily, they favour yellow and white, and they often have sweet fragrances. These are all reasons to grow them in large clumps (at least 20 bulbs) for a massed effect. Combine 'Bridal Crown' in natural flower beds, with scilla and Anemone blanda, botanical tulips, forget-me-nots and small grasses like Stipa. A group of Tazette Narcissus in a pot placed near the house or even in a slightly heated room will diffuse an exceptional fragrance and it is perfect for cut flowers.
Daffodil or Narcissus? Botanically speaking, daffodils are part of the narcissus family. They have flowers grouped in pairs or more, and their corolla forms a bell-shaped trumpet, longer than it is wide. Botanical species have the charm of wild plants and thrive in rock gardens: N.bulbocodium, N. canaliculatus, N.juncifolius, N.pseudonarcissus, and the simple woodland daffodil are among the prettiest. In vases, we advise you not to mix narcissus with other flowers, especially tulips, as the stems of narcissus contain a substance that quickly wilts other flowers. This detrimental effect on other flower types can be mitigated by dipping the ends of the narcissus stems in warm water for 1 to 2 minutes.
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Narcissus Bridal Crown in pictures
Plant habit
Flowering
Foliage
Botanical data
Narcissus
tazetta
Bridal Crown
Amaryllidaceae
Paperwhite, Bunch-flowered Daffodil, Chinese Sacred Lily, Polyanthus Narcissus
Cultivar or hybrid
Planting and care
Narcissus Bridal Crown is low-maintenance and grows in any well-drained and loosened soil, even limestone, clayey and dry in summer. The results are not as good in soils that are too wet or excessively acidic. The warmer and drier your climate, the less of a problem soil type will be. Plant the bulbs from September to mid-December, 15 cm (6in) deep, with a spacing of 8 cm (3in), in a sunny or semi-shaded position (at least 3 hours of sunshine per day). Left undisturbed, your daffodils will produce more and more flowers each year. To plant them in a lawn: remove a patch of turf, dig and loosen the soil to a depth of at least 20 cm (8in) (the height of a spade), place your bulbs, cover them with soil and replace the turf. Choose a place where you will not mow, as you must let daffodil leaves wither before cutting them. It is a good idea to water in dry spells, during the flowering period. However, overly wet summers are harmful to the bulbs, which may rot. Daffodils generally remain in the ground, but bulbs can be dug up once the foliage has turned yellow to protect them from excessively wet summers. Remove faded flowers to encourage new reserves in the bulb. After flowering, let the foliage die naturally and only cut it when it turns yellow. If the clumps become too dense, they will not flower as well, so they can be divided from July to September when the leaves are dry. You can immediately replant the (undamaged) bulbs.
Planting period
Intended location
Care
Planting & care advice
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Hardiness is the lowest winter temperature a plant can endure without suffering serious damage or even dying. However, hardiness is affected by location (a sheltered area, such as a patio), protection (winter cover) and soil type (hardiness is improved by well-drained soil).
In temperate climates, pruning of spring-flowering shrubs (forsythia, spireas, etc.) should be done just after flowering.
Pruning of summer-flowering shrubs (Indian Lilac, Perovskia, etc.) can be done in winter or spring.
In cold regions as well as with frost-sensitive plants, avoid pruning too early when severe frosts may still occur.
The harvesting period indicated on our website applies to countries and regions in USDA zone 8 (France, England, Ireland, the Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...) fruit and vegetable harvests are likely to be delayed by 3-4 weeks.
In warmer areas (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), harvesting will probably take place earlier, depending on weather conditions.
The sowing periods indicated on our website apply to countries and regions within USDA Zone 8 (France, UK, Ireland, Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...), delay any outdoor sowing by 3-4 weeks, or sow under glass.
In warmer climes (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), bring outdoor sowing forward by a few weeks.
The planting period indicated on our website applies to regions in USDA Zone 9a (East Coast and Midlands: Dublin, Wexford, Waterford, Kilkenny, Portlaoise). It will vary depending on where you live:
- On the west coast and in the north-west (Galway, Limerick, Sligo, Donegal, Westport), delay planting by 1 to 2 weeks in spring and bring it forward by 1 to 2 weeks in autumn compared to the dates given, preferably choosing periods without strong winds.
- In the inland hills and plateaus (Wicklow Mountains, Macgillycuddy’s Reeks, Connemara, Killarney), it is best to plant in spring (April–May) or autumn (September–October), avoiding periods of waterlogged soil in winter and strong winds, which pose the main risk to newly planted trees in these areas.
The flowering period indicated on our website applies to regions in USDA Zone 9a, such as the East Coast and Midlands, including Dublin, Wexford, Waterford, Kilkenny and Portlaoise.
This will vary depending on where you live:
- On the west coast and in the northwest (Galway, Limerick, Sligo, Donegal and Westport), it will be delayed by one to two weeks compared to the given dates, due to stronger Atlantic winds and less spring sunshine.
- In the inland hills and plateaus (the Wicklow Mountains, the Macgillycuddy's Reeks, Connemara and Killarney), flowering will be delayed by two to three weeks. Flowering mainly occurs between May and July, with the limiting factors being less frost and more of the excessive humidity, strong winds and lack of sunshine that are characteristic of these areas.
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