Wisteria floribunda Macrobotrys
Wisteria floribunda Macrobotrys
Wisteria floribunda Macrobotrys
Wisteria floribunda Macrobotrys
Japanese Wisteria
Received a beautiful wisteria on December 23rd. Already well staked, it promises a good start. Planted on the same day it arrived in superb condition, following your advice, I can't wait for spring to see it bloom...! Thank you very much.
laurrelley, 06/01/2025
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Description
Wisteria floribunda 'Macrobotrys' is a spectacular variety of Japanese wisteria. Its pendulous blue-violet flowers are grouped in long trailing clusters that can measure up to 1m (3ft) in length!
Wisteria floribunda 'Macrobotrys' has deciduous leaves with 12 ovate leaflets that are medium green in colour and measure 4 to 8cm (2 to 3in) in length. The stems twine from left to right on sturdy supports. In May, pendulous clusters of slightly fragrant blue-lilac papilionaceous flowers are formed, measuring 50cm (20in) to 1m (3ft) in length. The fruits, in the shape of velvety beans, measure from 10 to 15cm (4 to 6in) in length.
This is the hardiest of wisterias, tolerating temperatures down to -20°C (-4°F). It takes a long time to establish and thrives in non-calcareous, fertile, deep and well-drained soils in sunny or semi-shaded positions that are sheltered from strong winds. The soil should be enriched with organic matter every year. Pruning should be done in February when the floral buds are formed.
With its height of 8m (26ft), Wisteria floribunda 'Macrobotrys' is used to cover walls, railings, pergolas, arbours, and porches for a romantic garden.
Wisteria branches can twist even the strongest supports.
Beware! All parts of wisteria are toxic if ingested!
Wisteria floribunda Macrobotrys in pictures
Plant habit
Flowering
Foliage
Botanical data
Wisteria
floribunda
Macrobotrys
Fabaceae
Japanese Wisteria
Cultivar or hybrid, East Asia
Planting and care
Wisteria floribunda 'Macrobotrys' should be planted in autumn in fertile, deep, and well-drained soil, in a sunny or partially shaded location. Add compost and water well after planting.
General pruning: in February, when the flower buds have formed, prune back (to 2 buds) the branches that have no buds. This will aerate the plant. Do not keep more than 4 rounded flower buds on the same stem.
To train a wisteria to climb a tree: no training pruning is necessary.
Pruning for training against a wall: after planting, prune the main shoot to 75 to 90cm (30 to 35in) above the ground. In the first year, tie the lateral shoots to the support and prune the others to 2 buds. In the first winter, prune the lateral shoots by 1/3 of their length and the others to 2 buds. Prune the main shoot to 75 to 90cm (30 to 35in) above the main lateral shoot. Repeat in the following years until fully trained on the support. Once established, prune all shoots in late summer to 15cm (6in) inside the edge of the support, leaving 4 to 6 leaves on each shoot. In mid-winter, reduce these shoots by 8 to 10cm (3 to 4in), leaving only 2 buds.
Planting period
Intended location
Care
Planting & care advice
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Hardiness is the lowest winter temperature a plant can endure without suffering serious damage or even dying. However, hardiness is affected by location (a sheltered area, such as a patio), protection (winter cover) and soil type (hardiness is improved by well-drained soil).
In temperate climates, pruning of spring-flowering shrubs (forsythia, spireas, etc.) should be done just after flowering.
Pruning of summer-flowering shrubs (Indian Lilac, Perovskia, etc.) can be done in winter or spring.
In cold regions as well as with frost-sensitive plants, avoid pruning too early when severe frosts may still occur.
The harvesting period indicated on our website applies to countries and regions in USDA zone 8 (France, England, Ireland, the Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...) fruit and vegetable harvests are likely to be delayed by 3-4 weeks.
In warmer areas (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), harvesting will probably take place earlier, depending on weather conditions.
The sowing periods indicated on our website apply to countries and regions within USDA Zone 8 (France, UK, Ireland, Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...), delay any outdoor sowing by 3-4 weeks, or sow under glass.
In warmer climes (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), bring outdoor sowing forward by a few weeks.
The planting period indicated on our website applies to regions in USDA Zone 9a (East Coast and Midlands: Dublin, Wexford, Waterford, Kilkenny, Portlaoise). It will vary depending on where you live:
- On the west coast and in the north-west (Galway, Limerick, Sligo, Donegal, Westport), delay planting by 1 to 2 weeks in spring and bring it forward by 1 to 2 weeks in autumn compared to the dates given, preferably choosing periods without strong winds.
- In the inland hills and plateaus (Wicklow Mountains, Macgillycuddy’s Reeks, Connemara, Killarney), it is best to plant in spring (April–May) or autumn (September–October), avoiding periods of waterlogged soil in winter and strong winds, which pose the main risk to newly planted trees in these areas.
The flowering period indicated on our website applies to regions in USDA Zone 9a, such as the East Coast and Midlands, including Dublin, Wexford, Waterford, Kilkenny and Portlaoise.
This will vary depending on where you live:
- On the west coast and in the northwest (Galway, Limerick, Sligo, Donegal and Westport), it will be delayed by one to two weeks compared to the given dates, due to stronger Atlantic winds and less spring sunshine.
- In the inland hills and plateaus (the Wicklow Mountains, the Macgillycuddy's Reeks, Connemara and Killarney), flowering will be delayed by two to three weeks. Flowering mainly occurs between May and July, with the limiting factors being less frost and more of the excessive humidity, strong winds and lack of sunshine that are characteristic of these areas.
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