Lavender Hidcote seeds - True Lavender
Lavender Hidcote seeds - True Lavender
Lavender Hidcote seeds - True Lavender
Lavender Hidcote seeds - True Lavender
Lavandula angustifolia Hidcote
True Lavender, English lavender
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Description
Lavandula angustifolia 'Hidcote', also known as English lavender or common lavender, is a robust Mediterranean shrub. It forms a dense and compact ball covered with aromatic grey-green foliage, that is deciduous or semi-evergreen. In June, its short and stocky spikes bloom into a multitude of bristly stems that transform the plant into a round, deep violet-blue display. Decorative even in winter, it has a strong nature, tolerant against drought and salty wind. Give it a dry slope with poor soil, sun and plenty of heat.
Lavandula angustifolia is a plant of the Lamiaceae family, related to salvias, thymes and rosemarys. The 'Hidcote' variety forms a small-sized bush of 50cm (19.7 in) in all directions, with an upright, very compact, dense and vigorous habit, in a bushy and rounded clump. Its decorative deciduous or semi-evergreen foliage is composed of narrow aromatic leaves which are a beautiful silver-green colour. In summer, this lavender is covered with a multitude of dark violet-blue, highly fragrant flowers that attract bees, carried by short cylindrical spikes at the end of woody stems. In reality, it is the coloured calyxes, which surround the flowers, that influence the perception of the colour of the inflorescence when seen from a distance.
This Lavender Hidcote, like most other lavenders, needs to be planted in full sun in very well-drained soil (even dry and rocky soil). In a sunny and warm location, its silver-green foliage will be bright and its violet flowers will exude an intense fragrance. An ornamental and Mediterranean plant par excellence, lavender can be used in flower beds, as a specimen plant, in borders, rock gardens, pots, coastal areas, and even as a low-flowering hedge.
With its graphic and wild appearance, the colour of its foliage, and its violet flowers, the gardener has endless possibilities. You can associate Lavender Hidcote with grasses like Stipa pennata or Stipa tenuifolia, which, with their tousled habit, will contrast with its rounded shape and create a harmonious association often found in nature. It will also work wonders when combined with perennial flaxes, astragals, euphorbias, or shrubs such as rockroses, landscape roses, coronillas, and shrubby salvias. It pairs well with Iris germanica, daylilies, and the corollas of Poppies. You can also create beautiful containers to be placed on the patio or balcony. It is also possible to mix several lavender varieties together, creating an elegant display with a variety of flower and foliage colours, as well as different plant sizes and volumes.
Properties: English lavender, being a highly honey-producing plant, contributes to the conservation of bees: the nectar of its flowers attracts bees, making it one of the most renowned honey plants. The plant is distilled to obtain a highly sought-after essential oil used in perfumery and aromatherapy. Its numerous therapeutic virtues are still widely used: its essential oil has antiseptic, antispasmodic, healing, purifying, diuretic properties, etc.
Lavender Hidcote seeds - True Lavender in pictures
Flowering
Foliage
Plant habit
Botanical data
Lavandula
angustifolia
Hidcote
Lamiaceae
True Lavender, English lavender
Cultivar or hybrid
Planting and care
Sow at any time of the year.
Sow lavender in trays, pots, etc. in a well-drained special seed compost. Barely cover the seeds with compost. Place the sown compost in a propagator or a warm place to maintain an optimal temperature of 15-18°C (59-64°F). Germination can be slow. If this is the case, place the tray or pots in a polythene bag and leave at 15-18°C (59-64°F) for 2 weeks, then place them in the refrigerator (not freezer) for 3 to 6 weeks. After this step, return the sown compost to the recommended germination temperature. If germination does not occur within 6 to 10 weeks, return to the fridge for another 3-6 week stay. Regularly check the compost placed in the refrigerator and immediately take it out if it is showing signs of germination.
Transplant the young plants, when large enough to handle, into 8 cm (3.1 in) pots. Let them grow under a cold frame and plant them outside the following spring, in full sun, spacing them 30cm (11.8 in) apart.
Cultivation:
In nature, lavenders always live in poor, rocky, dry, well-drained environments. They hate summer moisture, which causes them to fail, as they are very sensitive to fungal diseases induced by the combination of heat and moisture. In winter, they need perfect drainage, and in summer, they must be kept dry. Lavender will age better in poor soil, as its growth will be slower, and it will be less likely to become bare at the base. To limit this phenomenon, prune, from a young age, after flowering or in autumn, just above the first buds that can be seen on the wood. Lavenders never sprout from old wood. The clump will therefore branch out more and more, remaining compact, eventually forming beautiful round and dense cushions. Plant them in gravel, stones, coarse sand, but absolutely no compost or fertilizer. When pruning after flowering, do not throw away the faded inflorescences, but collect them to make sachets that will delicately scent wardrobes and also make excellent moth repellents. For dried bouquets, harvest the just-bloomed lavender flowers and let them dry upside down, in a well-ventilated place.
Sowing period
Intended location
Planting & care advice
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Hardiness is the lowest winter temperature a plant can endure without suffering serious damage or even dying. However, hardiness is affected by location (a sheltered area, such as a patio), protection (winter cover) and soil type (hardiness is improved by well-drained soil).
In temperate climates, pruning of spring-flowering shrubs (forsythia, spireas, etc.) should be done just after flowering.
Pruning of summer-flowering shrubs (Indian Lilac, Perovskia, etc.) can be done in winter or spring.
In cold regions as well as with frost-sensitive plants, avoid pruning too early when severe frosts may still occur.
The harvesting period indicated on our website applies to countries and regions in USDA zone 8 (France, England, Ireland, the Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...) fruit and vegetable harvests are likely to be delayed by 3-4 weeks.
In warmer areas (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), harvesting will probably take place earlier, depending on weather conditions.
The sowing periods indicated on our website apply to countries and regions within USDA Zone 8 (France, UK, Ireland, Netherlands).
In colder areas (Scandinavia, Poland, Austria...), delay any outdoor sowing by 3-4 weeks, or sow under glass.
In warmer climes (Italy, Spain, Greece, etc.), bring outdoor sowing forward by a few weeks.
The planting period indicated on our website applies to regions in USDA Zone 9a (East Coast and Midlands: Dublin, Wexford, Waterford, Kilkenny, Portlaoise). It will vary depending on where you live:
- On the west coast and in the north-west (Galway, Limerick, Sligo, Donegal, Westport), delay planting by 1 to 2 weeks in spring and bring it forward by 1 to 2 weeks in autumn compared to the dates given, preferably choosing periods without strong winds.
- In the inland hills and plateaus (Wicklow Mountains, Macgillycuddy’s Reeks, Connemara, Killarney), it is best to plant in spring (April–May) or autumn (September–October), avoiding periods of waterlogged soil in winter and strong winds, which pose the main risk to newly planted trees in these areas.
The flowering period indicated on our website applies to regions in USDA Zone 9a, such as the East Coast and Midlands, including Dublin, Wexford, Waterford, Kilkenny and Portlaoise.
This will vary depending on where you live:
- On the west coast and in the northwest (Galway, Limerick, Sligo, Donegal and Westport), it will be delayed by one to two weeks compared to the given dates, due to stronger Atlantic winds and less spring sunshine.
- In the inland hills and plateaus (the Wicklow Mountains, the Macgillycuddy's Reeks, Connemara and Killarney), flowering will be delayed by two to three weeks. Flowering mainly occurs between May and July, with the limiting factors being less frost and more of the excessive humidity, strong winds and lack of sunshine that are characteristic of these areas.
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