Spider lily: planting, growing, care

Description and botany

Spider Lilies are bulbous plants whose various common names say everything about this plant’s strangeness: Peruvian Daffodil, Sea Daffodil, Spider Lily or Hymenocallis.

Formerly members of the Alliaceae family, Spider Lilies now belong to the large Amaryllidaceae family (alongside Amaryllis, Nerines and Agapanthus). Under one common name hide in fact two different genera: the Hymenocallis and the Ismene, with 65 and 105 species respectively. However, in strict botanical sense, only the Hymenocallis can be defined as Spider Lilies. By abuse of language, Ismene is sometimes used as a synonym of Spider Lily. The two genera are distinguished by leaf base — sheathing (as in a leek) in the genus Ismene but not in the genus Hymenocallis — by number of locules in the ovule and by the presence of a pedicel on Ismene flowers.

In addition to these two main genera, interspecific hybrids have been obtained between them. This is notably the case of d’Hymmenocallis x festalis, a hybrid resulting from a cross-breeding between Ismene longipetale and Hymmenocalis narcissiflora.

All come from tropical and subtropical regions of the Americas, in particular the lower Andean regions for the genus Ismene. It is this origin that makes them very vulnerable to frost. Depending on origin, Spider Lily species are divided into three categories: Tropical, Mexican and South American. In the wild they develop in meadows and rocky areas, which makes them tolerant of low soil fertility. Today, natural habitats where Spider Lilies grow tend to disappear, and with them these remarkable bulbs.

Spider Lilies are herbaceous and bulbous perennial plants. They have foliage that is most often deciduous but some species have evergreen foliage. These species are particularly sensitive to cold and cannot be lifted during winter. Reserve them for the warmest regions (no winter temperature below 5°C) or grow them in a winter garden. Leaves are large, erect, strap-shaped and a vivid green.

Hymenocallis festalis white

Above foliage rise in summer long flower stalks that can reach, in the tallest species, more than sixty centimetres. Each of these flower stems is several-flowered and can bear up to 5 flowers.

Flowers in umbels are most often white but sometimes yellow (notably Hymenocallis x festalis ‘Sulphur Queen’). They are relatively large, with a diameter of 10 to 15 cm. The six petals are thin and elongated, as are the long stamens that unfold at the centre of the flower. It is the resemblance of these stamens to spider legs that is said to have given the Spider Lily its name, unless it was the general shape of the flower. In any case, this flower continues to charm with its strangeness.

The long vase life of Spider Lily flowers makes them perfect for making bouquets.

Different varieties of Spider lily

Hymenocallis longipetala - Spider Lily

Beautiful Spider Lily belonging to genus Ismene with delightfully fragrant white flowers.

• Flowering time July, August
• Height at maturity 60 cm

See the product sheet

Hymenocallis festalis Blanche

Interspecific hybrid resulting from cross-breeding between Ismene longipetale and Hymmenocalis narcissiflora.

• Flowering time July to September
• Height at maturity 50 cm

See the product sheet

Hymenocallis festalis Sulphur Queen - Spider Lily

Yellow-flowered variety, one of the easiest Spider Lilies to grow among those with non-white flowers.

• Flowering time July, August
• Height at maturity 60 cm

See the product sheet

Planting Spider lilies

Where and when to plant?

To best adapt the Spider Lily to your garden, take inspiration from its natural medium, the rocky meadows in warm regions of America. Spider Lilies prefer a well-drained, humus-bearing, sandy and poor soil. Beware of excess water that would rot the bulb.

If you plant your Spider Lilies in a pot, the ideal substrate will be a mix of potting compost, garden soil and river sand in equal thirds.

Spider Lilies are very frost-tender, so it is necessary to wait until the last risk of frost has passed before planting. Planting in May is ideal. In open ground, Spider Lilies are to be grown like Gladioli, lifting them from the soil before the first frosts. They will also do well in a winter garden, a conservatory or any other place protected from frost.

To slightly hasten flowering, you can also choose to plant earlier (around April) in a pot indoors, then move the pot outdoors when warmer weather arrives.

How to plant?

Due to their relatively large size, Spider Lilies are planted at a relatively low density. Allow about 8 to 9 bulbs per square metre. Prefer bulbs of large calibre (over 14 cm); number of flowers is directly correlated with bulb size.

For planting in a pot, choose a pot with a diameter greater than 20 cm.

Planting in open ground

Before planting, if your soil is not sufficiently well-drained, do not hesitate to add sand to prevent bulb rot.

• Dig a hole about 10 cm deep and add any necessary amendments.
• Place the bulb at the bottom of the hole with the tip slightly showing at the surface.
• Cover with soil and firm lightly.
• Water moderately, even in winter.

Planting in a pot

• Place a layer of clay pebbles at the bottom of the pot to improve drainage.
• Fill the pot up to 10 cm from the rim with a mix of potting compost, garden soil and river sand in equal thirds.
• Place the bulb, the tip should slightly protrude at the surface of the pot.
• Cover with soil and firm lightly.
• Water moderately, even in winter.

Read our advice sheet: Planting bulbs and To grow Ismene in a pot

Propagation of Spider lilies

Bulbous plants, Spider Lilies multiply only by division of clumps. Sowing is so complex that it seems almost impossible to achieve under non-professional conditions. Each parent bulb (this is the name given to the large bulbs you buy) produces daughter bulbs, also called bulblets. In autumn, when the plant enters dormancy and you lift bulbs to protect them from frost, it is time to divide the plants. After lifting the bulbs, carefully detach each bulblet. In spring, when you replant your bulbs, plant bulblets separately from the mother plant. First year bulblets are relatively small and will probably not flower before second year. You can therefore also plant them in small buckets and wait until they are well developed before finding them a place in your garden.

Hymenocallis longipetala

Caring for Spider lilies

Generally free from diseases and pests (with a few exceptions), Spider Lilies are relatively easy-to-care-for plants.

During growth phase, and even more during flowering, regular watering is necessary to prevent the bulb drying out. Water thoroughly but allow soil to dry out between waterings so the bulb does not rot. After flowering, stop watering to encourage the bulb to enter dormancy.

After flowering, remove the flower stems to prevent seed set and help the bulb replenish its reserves. Take care not to cut foliage immediately but wait until it has completely yellowed (foliage is essential for the plant to store nutrients for the following season). You can also apply a bulb fertiliser after flowering.

In autumn, before first frosts, lift the bulbs and store them over winter. Keep them dormant all winter, dry and protected from frost at a temperature between 8 and 12°C.

Under glass or in a conservatory, whitefly attacks are possible, especially in warm conditions. You can move plants out of the greenhouse or ventilate to drive these small pests towards more suitable temperatures. Spray with a mixture of water and black soap (focusing on the undersides of the leaves, which whiteflies particularly favour) or try our companion-planting combinations to repel whiteflies.

Pairing Spider lilies

The ideal location for Spider Lilies is a conservatory or veranda. To create a lush, exotic setting for these flowers, pair them with Monstera, Cordylines or arborescent ferns. To combat whiteflies in a conservatory, plant bulbs in association with marigolds or basil.

Spider Lilies also do well outdoors, planted in open ground. You can pair them with Nerines or Agapanthus. For the latter, favour blue flowers that will contrast nicely with the white flowers of Spider Lilies.

An idea for pairing: Hymenocallis festalis white, Nerine bowdenii and Agapanthus ‘Blue Heaven’

With their long vase life and delightful fragrance, Spider Lilies also make excellent cut flowers, paired with Agapanthus, or with foliage—fine-textured like Asparagus, or conversely very large leaves such as those of Monstera—for a composition full of contrast.

Finally, Spider Lily flowers are so striking that they also work very well on their own, revealing their full potential.

Did you know?

In autumn too!

There is another genus nicknamed the Spider Lilies but flowering in autumn: Lycoris. Like Ismene and Hymenocallis, these plants are relatively tender bulbous plants. Native to Asia, they flower in autumn then carry their foliage through winter. Plant them in a greenhouse, conservatory or winter garden. While summer-flowering Spider Lilies are only white or yellow, Lycoris display brighter colours: carmine red (L. radiata) or golden yellow (L. aurea).

A mythological origin

In Greek mythology, Ismene is the incestuous daughter of Oedipus and Jocasta but also a Naiad (goddess of springs).